[mainbearing]

It may be. Because the current "center" based on driving straight down the street is off from the "true center".

Thinking of it, a better check is to take that out of the equation. If you have the front on stands. Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and return it half way to the center (in terms of turn count). Now is the steering wheel pointing straight ahead? If so you are good; if not, I would say either the steering wheel or the rack was not adjusted right.

Basically ignore the direction the wheels are pointing for now. You can achieve the same thing in an empty parking lot, do the lock-to-lock turn and return the steering wheel half way back from lock (in terms of turn count). And see if the steering wheel is pointing straight ahead, even if the wheels might not be.

[OG Style]

I thinks its fixed. I did a calibration with my scanner and the lights went out. I took it for a drive and the stayed off.

[mainbearing]

Are the number of turns still different (1-1/4 to the left vs 1-3/4 to the right)?

See if they become equal after an alignment. They should be equal, which would confirm the rack and steering wheel are in the proper positions.

[OG Style]

Yes they are.

[mainbearing]

I know the OCD part of me would want that corrected so I can have the steering wheel straight and equal turns left and right.

Anyway you can do the check mentioned earlier to see if it was the tie rod out of adjustment or the rack and steering wheel.

[OG Style]

This is interesting. I'm getting fault code 9520. None of my steering wheel controls are working.

[mainbearing]

A search showed that it may be an optical steering sensor that is a relatively easy fix.
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=520467

However, it brings back the concern I had about the clock spring cable.
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=681497

[OG Style]

Would i be able to fix it by pulling the steering wheel or do I have to disconnect the rack?

[mainbearing]

Looking at that optical sensor DIY in post 51, picture #9, remove the steering wheel, 4 torx screws and 3 clips and the clock spring and optical disc and sensor assembly should come off.

I read the DIY a long while ago, and know of this common problem. But I have not removed it to fix the LED. Fingers crossed.



There are plenty of videos on that too. Make sure the battery is disconnected, and follow all the ABS air bag precautions in handling. AllData subscription service should have the necessary procedures. Refer also to: https://www.automotivesafetycouncil....March-2012.pdf

How the BMW clock spring works. This clock spring has 5-1/2 turns, therefore should be plenty even if you were slightly off with the 3-turn lock-to-lock, unless someone got to the steering wheel and rack before and did not set it to the center.

How this owner fixed the clock spring (535i):

[OG Style]

I will pop it apart and look at it. Can I adjust the center position by removing the steering wheel or do I have to disconnect the shaft from the rack to do that?
I believe the new rack was not centered when I got it.

[OG Style]

My wheels are straight and calibrated at 0. The number goes up to 497 when turning all the way left. When I go all the way to the right the number's are -584

[mainbearing]

Looking at picture #7, there is an "index" mark in the column that matches up to the steering wheel. It will not go on any other way. Therefore I think you will have to adjust it by disconnecting the u-joint at the rack.

Take a look at the 2nd video in post 53 on centering the clock spring, and the 1st video in post 41 on centering the rack.

[OG Style]

I'm having my car aligned tomorrow. The wheel should be straight afterwards then I will check the clock spring. Thanks for the help.

[mainbearing]

So the rack and steering wheel have already been centered? If so after the alignment you have have equal turns to the left and right. That would be good.

[OG Style]

They are centered as good as I can do. I probably should have waited to put the new tie rod end on until I had the rack installed and centered first.

[OG Style]

I just got the alignment done and I'm getting about 1/2 a turn extra to the right.

Is there something thats supposed to limit how far the wheels can turn?

[mainbearing]

Yes, the rack limits it.

Before you took it to the alignment shop, you said the rack was centered. Were you getting 1-1/2 turn each side? If so that was supposed to be good (even if the car may not be driving straight). Then I think the shop did not do a good job.

I am not sure what the alignment shop did. However, if you had it center as in the two videos I mentioned, then the shop likely did not do it right.

This FCP video does not show you how to set the rack center except only telling you about a mark. You still have to set the center by counting turns and if your replacement rack has the mark on the rubber boot, then align it to that mark.

Anyway, sounds like you may have to disconnect the column from the rack and reset the rack again, make sure the column stays in the straight ahead orientation.

With the steering column disconnected, center the rack again. Let the wheels point where they may while you center it, then use the measurements in the FCP video at 21:49 to point the wheels back into the ballpark and have the alignment shop make another go at it. Hopefully they do it free of charge.

Steering wheel column is disconnected from the rack, 19:16. You do not need to remove the intermediate shaft, if the lower joint comes off and gives you room to work.

Check the center mark if your rack has it. 29:39. You still have to make sure the rack is in the middle of the turns first, then use the mark to align for a more precise mid point.

After you reset the rack and column, the direction of the wheels will be off. You can use these measurements to get them back into the ballpark. These may not be the exact ones for your car however. 21:49

Alternatively, you can measure the distance between the large boot band to the ball joint on both sides in your current setup. (I suspect the distances between the small clamp and the ball joint on both sides will be a good way off right now.)

[OG Style]

I did it like they did in the video. I measured the distance and counted the number of turns on the tie rod ends. I out the rack in and made sure the wheels were straight before connecting the steering shaft. We mark the linkage to a spot on the rack to know the steering wheel wad straight when hooking it back up.

[OG Style]

I think I figured out where I need to be. I need to turn the steering wheel about 50 degrees clockwise and disconnect the steering link from the rack then center the wheel up and connect it to the rack. Then have an alignment done. I'm going to take the car to the alignment shop so they can see whats going on.

[mainbearing]

If your extra 1/2 to the right is not exactly 180 degrees, then it is best to see if the shop can help by disconnecting the column, center steering wheel and also center the rack separately.

Then if there is a mark on the rubber rack boot as in the FCP video, have the shop line that up. Then hook the steering wheel back up.

However, given the shop did not tell you about the extra 1/2 turn to the right, I have doubts about their ability.

[OG Style]

The wires in the clock spring are damaged. I don't have any idea how the wheel got moved.

[mainbearing]

If the steering column lock was in place, then my guess would be the rack or steering column were off enough that the 5-1/2 turn clock spring (as described in the video in post 53) was not able to compensate for the 3-turn rack. Hopefully the clock spring is an easier fix in that other video in post 53.

I would say the important thing is to center the rack and center the steering column separately, then link them back together. I guess you can do this while the clock spring assembly is removed (post 53). Just put the steering wheel back to be able to turn and test. You should be able to achieve 1-1/2 turn either direction, while you fix or source another clock spring assembly. Take your time, check and double check each step.