[NBdream953]

Hello I recently purchased the car yesterday I finally got to read the car and come out with bunch of codes so I’m a but stuck from where to start
It looks like someone been under the hood although the car was sold to me as run and drive but not really

[NBdream953]

So i need some light on it will be very appreciated
I already been told i need to reprogram the car with original variant of the software and rescan in again but I don’t have this option at least for now so will be great-full if someone can throw light on it

[therealdb1]

That sure is a heap of codes all at once!

Does the car run and drive?

If so, now you have noted all of the codes I would reset all of them and drive the car to see which, if any, come back. At the moment you have no idea when any of them occurred or what caused them. As you say, it could have been someone playing around without knowing what they were doing or faults may have been repaired but the codes not cleared.

Since you are new to the car start with a clean slate and then concern yourself with faults as they appear rather than try and interpret an unknown history.

[Chappers 71]

As already mentioned, reset the codes & see which if any reappear.
Would also be worth checking the health of the battery as a worn battery will cause all sorts of strange problems & cause random fault codes.
If you do renew the battery it will need to be registered with the cars intelligent charging system

[NBdream953]

Yes last night I rested all of the faults and then all of them back in fact the battery is low now cuz i need it to jump started last night but it didn’t seem to have issues few days ago and about driving i pick it up 5 days ago without having the chance to drive it cuz the recovery guy told me it start and the dies dew seconds ago so when i come back home I read about it so I unplugged the maf sensor which allowed the car to stay on i believe this is due to goes to sort of basic map to allow it go to a garage of some sort
So it runs but only without the maf once is connect it start the car run for few secs the it drops down the rpm shakes and cuts off
Eventually i had the chance to scan it i also check some live data and i saw that it shows really low fuel rail pressure which could be its sensor or the hpfp but so as the lpfp which i will run test to see if it’s accurate the worst part is that i have only sunday to look at it and for who ever buy from auction do not trust on starts and drives cuz that wasn’t the case with me
So after i saw all this codes I’m trying to set a starting point from where to start with

[therealdb1]

Two things here:
First, if there is one thing these cars dislike it is a flat battery. You will be surprised at the nasties it will throw at you with a poor condition battery. Sounds like your battery is on the way out if it was flat in 5 days. Invest in a new one before worrying about anything else. Clear all codes and see what returns.

Second, if it only runs without the MAF connected that suggests that the MAF is an issue (confirmed by the 277A code) and it is pointless trying to sort anything else until that is fixed. Fit a genuine MAF, even a second hand one from a breaker in preference to the cheap Chinese rubbish you see for sale online. If you fit a non-OEM MAF you will be buying a genuine one within a short space of time anyway.

There is no point worrying about fuel pressure etc. until you have it running with the feedback loop connected and out of limp home mode.

Once you have it running with a working MAF and known good battery, clear the codes and try again. See what comes back and post on here and we'll see what to do next.

[NBdream953]

Okay sounds like something to start with then i will source a new battery and will go from there thanks for the info from everyone i will post as soon as i manage to change it i check the faults again

Hello to everyone
So i just swapped the battery registered with carly wiped off all the codes and start the car and then cuts off few seconds later that’s all the faults left after the battery swap and cleared

[therealdb1]

Well that's an improvement!
Will it continue to run if you disconnect the MAF?
If so replacing that is you next job.
Once you get it running with a MAF connected we can look into the pump and DSC errors.

[therealdb1]

Out of interest if you have ISTA why have you changed to Carly?

[NBdream953]

That ista is not mine friend of mine came to scan it the first time but basically i don’t thins is the maf sensor simply because when was plugged I cracked the car and the sensor read
And the other thing I heard is that it allows the car to run without it cuz it throw it to service map plus is in limp mode to
The main issue here I think is the Dme incorrect data code as i said before I don’t know who was in it and what have they done cuz I found lots of loose bits here and there this Sunday i will lift it up and check what is the fairly big leak of oil in the back end of the engine which I discovered the other day when i had to move it and then check everything around the hpfp lpfp rail sensors and the dme connections to because it’s mess
And eventually i will look for someone who is confident programmer to program my dme and then to check where is the issue because now I’m guessing and trouble shooting but I can’t spend a fortune in parts without actually knowing if mines are broken

[therealdb1]

If the car runs in limp mode without the MAF connected but refuses to run with the MAF connected you need a new MAF.
They often do not show a fault code but they are faulty nonetheless. Been there got the T-shirt!
Until you have the car running but not in limp mode it is not worth looking at anything else.

As an aside, OBD II fault codes have been a boon as cars have become more complicated but they can also throw you real red herrings too! There has probably been thousands upon thousands of pounds invested in new sensors etc. that were not faulty in their own right but fault codes have popped up because of issues elsewhere.

[NBdream953]

Thing is the other day when i drove it car had time to warm up although the oil temp never reached the middle although it had time when I stoped I decided to plug the maf back in and car remain running so i wiped the codes caused by the maf been off and i left with the rest of them so when i reset the codes car attempted to run on idle but I couldn’t so it raise up as usual
I recently read some thread about guy who replaced valve cover gasket and had a lot of codes and many like mine end it up haven’t been installed properly so car had vacuum leak
And my one is dripping descent amount of oil and i saw that someone replaced the valve cover gasket on this car to and on top of that which silicone not a proper gasket

[therealdb1]

Oil temperature will take an age to creep up the gauge especially when the weather is sub-zero like it is at the moment. Mine takes a quite a while to reach normal oil temperature even during the summer.
If you search on this forum there are ways to check the water temperature which will respond much more quickly than oil or you could use your Carly, of course.
If you plug a faulty MAF into a car that is already running in limp home mode it will keep running in limp home mode because it will not get a proper MAF signal. Remember ISTA told you that the MAF had an electrical fault 277A. That has not gone away because you have changed your code reader!
Until you can run the car under normal operation conditions and not in limp home mode you cannot draw any conclusions from the other fault codes.
By all means fix your oil leak because that is a purely mechanical issue and needs to be done anyway.

[Chappers 71]

You can see water temp & battery charge via the hidden menu, just search e9x hidden menu for how to access it.

As for the oil leaks it’ll most likely need vc, ofh & sump gaskets & if your really unlucky a rear main oil seal but I would suggest that you replace the gaskets first & clean all the old oil, also if the ofhg has been leaking you’ll need to replace the drive belt as it will have oil contamination & you really don’t want that belt to let go & become ingested by the engine.

Welcome to 35i ownership, hopefully you have deep pockets