[stahlgray]

So I finished suspension refresh for my 2011 335d M-sport. Car was at 100k miles and figured it was time. Many thanks to all forum members. For sure could not do it without you guys. Everything seemed easier in the videos.

Koni Yellow
Eibach Pro-Kit
TRW M3 arms - front and rear

I really wanted to get the Bilstein B12 Pro-Kit but it's been out of stock for some time and could not wait any longer. The initial settings for the Koni were set to the middle. I'll let the suspension settle for a few months and get another alignment and adjust if needed. I just drove it a few miles after getting an alignment so I don't have much to say. Definitely feels 'tighter' and I can feel all the small bumps as compared to the old setup. Wheels are APEX ARC8 18x9 ET 30 Fronts and 18x9.5ET35 Rear that I got with the group buy back in March. Tires are Michelin PS4 235/40 F and 265/35 R.

Side Note: I was debating to take it to a shop or do myself. I'm glad I did it myself as I found some missing bolts on the car. The lower engine cover was missing 3-4 bolts. The bolts for the strut brace were not even tighten on the strut tower and the center bolt to firewall was missing.

[Barefoot-335is]

Looks really good, seems to sit perfectly!

[BSM n54iS]

How'd that install treat ya? Mine kicked my ass for a good long while, but glad I did it. More than likely I'd be unsatisfied with the shops work potentially hearing knocks and rattles and shit like that... but mine is tight as a drum

[SnapCoupe]

I'm glad I came across this post as I have an identical wheel/tire setup (scooped them on the group buy as well) and I plan on refreshing my suspension in the same way you did yours. If you don't mind, I have a few questions for ya...

Considering your car is a diesel and IIRC they're 150-200lbs heavier than a N55 car, did you have to run different spring rates? Or do you run the same as the gas cars?

How much stiffer would you say it is than stock? If you have any experience in any M cars (F80/E9X) would you say it compares in stiffness?

Does it rub at all with any passengers or on bumpy roads? On my Msport suspension with 86k miles on it, my R/R tire will just barely rub when driving spiritdly on back roads.

I was planning on just replacing the front arms with the FCP euro m3 kit, how bad were your rear arms? Was it necessary to replace those?

Finally... Do you feel like the car would be difficult to drive on a daily basis if it was any lower? My original plan was to do the Koni Yellows with the Swift Springs instead of the Eibach pro kit as I wanted the stiffer spring rates. I know the Swift kit does lower a hair bit more than the Eibach, so I am trying to figure out if it would be a pain in the ass or not.

[stahlgray]

Originally Posted by BdSM n54iS

How'd that install treat ya? Mine kicked my ass for a good long while, but glad I did it. More than likely I'd be unsatisfied with the shops work potentially hearing knocks and rattles and shit like that... but mine is tight as a drum

It was a big pain but not too bad. I started on the rears during the week. Did a little each night. Once I figured out one side, the other side took like 1 hour including m3 control arms. On Saturday my brother helped with the front. I ordered all new parts to build the strut. Figured if I ever send in the struts and shocks for a rebuild, I have a backup set to use temporary. There were a few hiccups but the major one was torquing the to top nut on the strut. I just used an impact gun hoped it was torqued down enough.

Totally agree that I'm glad I did it myself. It wasn't that difficult. Just took my time and made sure it was done right the first time.

[stahlgray]

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

I'm glad I came across this post as I have an identical wheel/tire setup (scooped them on the group buy as well) and I plan on refreshing my suspension in the same way you did yours. If you don't mind, I have a few questions for ya...

Considering your car is a diesel and IIRC they're 150-200lbs heavier than a N55 car, did you have to run different spring rates? Or do you run the same as the gas cars?

How much stiffer would you say it is than stock? If you have any experience in any M cars (F80/E9X) would you say it compares in stiffness?

Does it rub at all with any passengers or on bumpy roads? On my Msport suspension with 86k miles on it, my R/R tire will just barely rub when driving spiritdly on back roads.

I was planning on just replacing the front arms with the FCP euro m3 kit, how bad were your rear arms? Was it necessary to replace those?

Finally... Do you feel like the car would be difficult to drive on a daily basis if it was any lower? My original plan was to do the Koni Yellows with the Swift Springs instead of the Eibach pro kit as I wanted the stiffer spring rates. I know the Swift kit does lower a hair bit more than the Eibach, so I am trying to figure out if it would be a pain in the ass or not.

I didn't pay attention to the spring rate. I ordered the Koni/Eibach from Tire Rack and just got the kit for the 335d. I read other posts and seems like the suspensions setup are the same between the D and G.

Car is noticeably more stiff as compared to my m-sport with 100k miles. I was sort of expecting it but probably a little more than I wanted. Probably adjust the shocks to a softer setting after the second alignment. I really do not have any references other than sport suspension with 100k miles. For sure the car feels 'tight' and button down.

I haven't experienced any tire rubbing. I had the new wheels/tire setup for a few weeks before the suspension refresh. Haven't done any spirited driving or rear passengers. I took some rough before and after measurements, from the ground to the fender, tire pressure 35f/42r. I did noticed the RR was slightly lower than LR. I did a little research and 10mm variance is normal.

Before: LF - 25 1/2, RF - 25 1/2, LR - 25 5/8, RR 25 1/2
After: LF - 24 3/4, RF - 24 7/8, LR - 25 1/4, RR 25 1/8

The rear arms looked fine. Probably could have saved some money but the car is at 100k miles and I wanted all new setup since I plan on keeping it for another 100k. I was already in there, what's another few bolts to remove. Was tricky getting the bolt to line up to subframe. For the front end, it helps to remove the lower engine cover. Getting access to the bolts was much easier, especially when it was time to torque them. Rubber mallet is your friend.

I would probably not go any lower. I can hear something rubbing/dragging up front on small dips and bumps in the road. I'm hoping it's the rubber deflector below the front bumper. I really like the stance but really can't have it rubbing. Will drive for a few weeks and to get a better feel for it.

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by stahlgray

I didn't pay attention to the spring rate. I ordered the Koni/Eibach from Tire Rack and just got the kit for the 335d. I read other posts and seems like the suspensions setup are the same between the D and G.

Car is noticeably more stiff as compared to my m-sport with 100k miles. I was sort of expecting it but probably a little more than I wanted. Probably adjust the shocks to a softer setting after the second alignment. I really do not have any references other than sport suspension with 100k miles. For sure the car feels 'tight' and button down.

I haven't experienced any tire rubbing. I had the new wheels/tire setup for a few weeks before the suspension refresh. Haven't done any spirited driving or rear passengers. I took some rough before and after measurements, from the ground to the fender, tire pressure 35f/42r. I did noticed the RR was slightly lower than LR. I did a little research and 10mm variance is normal.

Before: LF - 25 1/2, RF - 25 1/2, LR - 25 5/8, RR 25 1/2
After: LF - 24 3/4, RF - 24 7/8, LR - 25 1/4, RR 25 1/8

The rear arms looked fine. Probably could have saved some money but the car is at 100k miles and I wanted all new setup since I plan on keeping it for another 100k. I was already in there, what's another few bolts to remove. Was tricky getting the bolt to line up to subframe. For the front end, it helps to remove the lower engine cover. Getting access to the bolts was much easier, especially when it was time to torque them. Rubber mallet is your friend.

I would probably not go any lower. I can hear something rubbing/dragging up front on small dips and bumps in the road. I'm hoping it's the rubber deflector below the front bumper. I really like the stance but really can't have it rubbing. Will drive for a few weeks and to get a better feel for it.

Thanks for the insightful response! I'm really looking forward to having this car not handle like crap.

[tlow98]

Beautiful looking setup and nice job tackling it yourself!

[stahlgray]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Beautiful looking setup and nice job tackling it yourself!

Thanks.

[stahlgray]

So after driving for a few weeks there is definitely some rubbing up front. It happens when there's a dip or bump in the road. I haven't done any spirited driving so now trying to figure out how to remedy.

After some investigating I have 2 options.

1. Dinan camber plates. My front camber is Left is -1.2 and Right is -1.3. I think these plates will add about .7 but not sure if this will be enough to clear the fender.

2. e30 upper spring plate and pad. This will add about 10mm to the front height. Again not sure if this is enough.

I went ahead and order parts for option 2. I like the front to be a little higher.

Now thinking I should have just replaced only the shocks, kept the sport springs and change to non-m3 arms.

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by stahlgray

So after driving for a few weeks there is definitely some rubbing up front. It happens when there's a dip or bump in the road. I haven't done any spirited driving so now trying to figure out how to remedy.

After some investigating I have 2 options.

1. Dinan camber plates. My front camber is Left is -1.2 and Right is -1.3. I think these plates will add about .7 but not sure if this will be enough to clear the fender.

2. e30 upper spring plate and pad. This will add about 10mm to the front height. Again not sure if this is enough.

I went ahead and order parts for option 2. I like the front to be a little higher.

Now thinking I should have just replaced only the shocks, kept the sport springs and change to non-m3 arms.

Did you replace all of your spring pads and other rubber bits when you refreshed the suspension?

Also, do you see where it is rubbing in the front? Is it the front of the fender liner where the bulb access is? Or is it rubbing on the fender itself?

[6ixSpd]

The tire sidewall height is your problem. A 245/35 would have even more clearance than a 235/40. I run a 245/35 on the same fitment as you up front (9" wide, ET30) and have zero issues at an even lower height.

[autoart]

Its rubbing because of the m3 front arms. Same thing happened to me. You have metal fenders so you can roll them and cut part of your fender liner to reduce the rubbing. Good luck.

[6ixSpd]

How so? M3 front arms increase camber which would increase his clearance. They do not affect the toe or caster.

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by 6ixSpd

The tire sidewall height is your problem. A 245/35 would have even more clearance than a 235/40. I run a 245/35 on the same fitment as you up front (9" wide, ET30) and have zero issues at an even lower height.

This is what im worried about too. Not only am I running 235/40, but the PS4s tend to run even wider/taller than other tires. I'm not against rolling fenders though if it means I can run the Swift Springs with no rubbing.

[BSM n54iS]

I don't think you should be rubbing at all. So you weren't for the first few weeks after install but are now? I guess the suspension settled and dropped a little more than right after install?