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      07-13-2017, 01:16 PM   #1145
nclsamy
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Ok, after 15k miles and 18 months after the timing chain change, it looks like it failed again. Probably worse this time since the the engine sounds stiffled, like it's clogged . There is also a tickling sound when it revs down, that hasn't been present before.


Errors found at diagnosis:

29F3 - Fuel Low Pressure Sensor Electric
2A26 - Catalytic Converter, Conversion in stratified - charge mode
2A2D Fuel Low pressure, fuel pressure
2A87 Exhaust Vanos Mechanism
2A99 Crankshaft, exhaust camshaft
2AAF Fuel pump, plausability
2C31 Oxygen sensor emissions control

My mechanic said that most probably the chain is problematic again, but he has to open the valve cover to test the timing.

I can believe it..."ultimate driving machine"...yeah right. I will never consider BMW again.

Is it posible to be a vanos related issue? How can the timing chain fail again in such a short period of time??
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      07-18-2017, 12:54 AM   #1146
raj55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nclsamy View Post
Ok, after 15k miles and 18 months after the timing chain change, it looks like it failed again. Probably worse this time since the the engine sounds stiffled, like it's clogged . There is also a tickling sound when it revs down, that hasn't been present before.


Errors found at diagnosis:

29F3 - Fuel Low Pressure Sensor Electric
2A26 - Catalytic Converter, Conversion in stratified - charge mode
2A2D Fuel Low pressure, fuel pressure
2A87 Exhaust Vanos Mechanism
2A99 Crankshaft, exhaust camshaft
2AAF Fuel pump, plausability
2C31 Oxygen sensor emissions control


I can believe it..."ultimate driving machine"...yeah right. I will never consider BMW again.

?

More like a "permanent workshop machine"
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      07-24-2017, 06:39 AM   #1147
nclsamy
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Ok, somehow it turns out that the catalytic converter is dead and it needs to be replaced.

I assume there is not other way than to buy another one, right? Are there any mods that can bypass the cat?
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      10-03-2017, 06:26 AM   #1148
seac511
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modification 320i n46b20cc

Anyone did mod 320i putting a remote turbocharge??
i need help for piggyback gready ultimate willwork on bmw?
Thank you
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      07-10-2018, 01:41 AM   #1149
dcdub2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nclsamy View Post
Ok, after 15k miles and 18 months after the timing chain change, it looks like it failed again. Probably worse this time since the the engine sounds stiffled, like it's clogged . There is also a tickling sound when it revs down, that hasn't been present before.


Errors found at diagnosis:

29F3 - Fuel Low Pressure Sensor Electric
2A26 - Catalytic Converter, Conversion in stratified - charge mode
2A2D Fuel Low pressure, fuel pressure
2A87 Exhaust Vanos Mechanism
2A99 Crankshaft, exhaust camshaft
2AAF Fuel pump, plausability
2C31 Oxygen sensor emissions control

My mechanic said that most probably the chain is problematic again, but he has to open the valve cover to test the timing.

I can believe it..."ultimate driving machine"...yeah right. I will never consider BMW again.

Is it posible to be a vanos related issue? How can the timing chain fail again in such a short period of time??
Hi Mate, feel your pain. my 320si timing chain went and had it replaced, on return, I instantly noticed it was not 100% right.

the 320 si is one of 500 made at the Sauber factory, if whoever replaced the timing chain did not use the correct timing tool then it will fail again.

HT Howard hires them out, this may have been the root cause.

http://www.hthoward.co.uk/specialist...ming-tool-kit/
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      08-17-2018, 11:25 AM   #1150
CloudFX
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Hey guys, so I decided to join the forum after trying and exhausting every solution there is with my N43.

Here's my issue, the car hesitates to start properly if the engine is warmed up, I've seen it do it on cold starts as well but like once in 100 or more cranks, most of the time it's doing it when the engine is warm. This has been going on for three years now, my bet is on leaky injectors since they are all index 3 known to have issues but I'm also scared of changing all 4 injectors on a perfectly working car just to find out that wasn't the problem. So now, moving on to the next thing, so far I've changed the following.

New OE starter
Complete timing chain and tensioner kit OE
New plugs
New coils
New crankshaft sensor OE ( used to throw the code )

Ran several diagnostics on ISTA-D trying to get to the bottom of it every single day since I have the tester at home. The car throws no fault codes apart from 2EF8 DME Thermostat activation ( already bought the thermostat waiting for it to be replaced )

There's no HPFP low pressure code or something wrong related to it ( however, once I've checked the pressure value in ISTA as soon as I stop the engine the pressure drops somewhat rapidly from 150k mbar and after about 10minutes it will reach a value of 5k mbar)
No LPFP issue as well ( holds pressure )
No missfire codes, never had 'em
No surging or hesitation, pulls perfectly
Cyl compression is over 11
Injector values on ista are between the values of -30 and +30

The dealer has a hard time telling why it does it and can't seem to know why, went to some other good mechanics that I know and their bet seems to either be the fuel pressure regulator or the injectors but most likely they said the injectors might leak. It also smells like gasoline when the car is cold but I suppose that's because the catalyst only does it's job when it's up to temp.

Does anyone have some sort of ideas? The car runs perfectly, never let me down in three years apart from this dreaded and never ending hard starting issue. I've noticed that the spark plugs on cyl 2 and 3 were really black when I changed them the last time.

The car has exactly 100k miles and it's an 08. Checked all injectors, they're all index 3

Last edited by CloudFX; 08-17-2018 at 11:30 AM.
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      08-21-2018, 11:49 PM   #1151
jbarr
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NOx sensor replacement

Hi there

Having a wee look around, this seems to be a pretty common issue for a lot of you around the 100k mark.

My 2010 320i is throwing up codes for this very thing and the man says it needs replacing.

Anyone know if it is just the probe that fails? A quick google shows that the probe is about $100, but the probe+plug (sensor?) is closer to $500.

One guy on here ultrasonically cleaned the probe to good effect, so I'm considering trying that in the first instance.

Any help is appreciated.

Cheers
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