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DIY: e9x with Sport paddles to DCT Paddles 3 in 1 DIY
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02-13-2014, 10:05 AM | #1 |
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DIY: e9x with Sport paddles to DCT Paddles 3 in 1 DIY
3 DIY's in 1
1) Steptronic to M3 DCT paddle swap 2) Wiring M3 DCT paddles to work with LCI DCT paddles 3) Creating paddle provisions First and foremost, in this DIY, you will be working around the airbag. If you have fear or don't know how to use logic and reason, DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME! Or anyplace else. Please read the thread all the way through. Make sure that you have the ability, tools and know how to do each step before starting it at all. I am not responsible for airbag discharge, property damage or bodily injury. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. I have modded cars for over 40 years now. I have worked with munitions from .22 cal to WMD's. I have a high regard and respect for anything has the capability to rapidly release a great volume of force and pressure. Don't fear the airbag, respect what it is capable of! If we are clear on that, let's move on. If not, look for another DIY you feel more comfortable with. Part 1: Removing Stock Paddle Tools: #20 torx driver, #20 torx bit, 1/4" drive 1/4" socket or 1/4" drive bit adapter, 1/4" ratchet, Small flat head screwdriver, plastic trim removal tool and #40 torx driver or punch similar in size. Follow the steps in order in the photo below. Use the trim removal too to remove the trim. It is a bit snug, but it will slide out under the lip of the airbag. Be cautious on your right side pulling up or out on the trim. The harness connected to the back of your right side multi-function (MF) switch is very short. Attachment 977723 Attachment 977724 If you want to use a flat head screwdriver to release the airbag, make sure that you have the blade flat in a horizontal position. Whatever you use, make sure it isn't larger than the guide hole and follow the angle of the passage as shown by the red lines in the photo above. While unlocking the airbag, pull up slightly on the side of the airbag that you are unlocking. You will feel it release. Attachment 977725 Attachment 977726 Attachment 977727 On this last step, I got mixed up. If you have a steering wheel that has provisions for DCT paddle, then you can just install the Sport paddle switch. So in Step 2, you will unplug the battery, disconnect the battery and remove the steering wheel. Please excuse me while I get started on Step 2. I hope to add it to this DIY this evening. Attachment 977728 Last edited by BMWE934me; 03-15-2015 at 12:08 PM.. |
02-13-2014, 07:05 PM | #2 |
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Part 2: Steering Wheel Removal
As we continue, some of us need to remove our steering wheels.
Tools: Small flat blade screwdriver, 1/4" ratchet, 1/4" bit socket or torx driver, #30 and #10 torx bits, 10mm socket and shop towel. I have an e93 and it takes a bit more to get to the battery. Instead of going into details, please do a search to remove your (-) battery cable. Attachment 977990 Attachment 977991 Attachment 977992 Attachment 977993 Attachment 977994 Attachment 977995 Attachment 977996 Attachment 977997 Last edited by BMWE934me; 03-15-2015 at 12:08 PM.. |
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02-13-2014, 07:29 PM | #3 |
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Part 3: Adding Paddle Provision to Steering Wheel
Part 3: Swapping steering wheels and adding paddle provisions.
Tools: Large sack of nuts (brass ones), Drill, drill bit set, exacto knife with new blade, small hand chisel, Dremel tool with cut off wheels, 2" painters tape, #20 torx driver and #2 phillips head screwdriver Now we have our steering wheel removed. Not everyone likes the steering wheel they have and want to upgrade. Sometimes you get excited over a great deal and buy a steering wheel you always wanted. It arrives and it doesn't have paddle provisions. Then the wife chimes in; "You're not spending another dime, tape the d@*m things on if you have to". We know that won't work. I wasn't totally sure which steering wheel I wanted, but I know I didn't want the Sport wheel anymore. So here's what I did... Attachment 978002 Attachment 978003 Attachment 978004 Attachment 978005 Attachment 978006 Attachment 978007 Attachment 978008 Attachment 978009 Attachment 978010 Next will be Part 4: Making changes to the DCT harness. Disregard the next photo where it says that Part 3 will be next. Note: If you have a pre-LCI car you will need to add wires to pin 2 of both the DCT paddle harness connectors that plug into you multi-function switches. Connect the two ends together or individually ground both wires. If you fail to ground pin 2 on each connector, your paddles will NOT work! Attachment 978011 Last edited by BMWE934me; 03-15-2015 at 12:08 PM.. |
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02-14-2014, 08:19 PM | #4 |
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Part 4: Preparing the DCT paddle switch for the swap
Part 4: Preparing the DCT paddle switch.
When you buy the DCT paddle new or one from an M3, it will be wired incorrectly to work with your MF switches. If you take a look at your sport switches, you will notice that you have wires in pins 1 & 3. If you have 3 wires in it, Pin 2 goes to ground. The DCT switch is wired to Pins 2 & 3. So the wire in Pin 2 needs to be swapped to Pin 1 in the DCT harness connector. If you want to swap the paddles off the DCT switch and add extended paddles, this is also the time to do it. To swap the paddles, first remove the top cover. Carefully unlatch the 4 or 5 tabs, 1 on each side and 2 or 3 on the back. Pull up on the cover while unlatching. This will help keep it from relatching again. Then remove the side cover. The are only 2 catches. Now push the brass colored pin out toward the side where the side cover was. When you pull out the paddle, be aware of the steel ball that is at the bottom of the spring in the shaft. Make sure it goes in when you reassembly it. Remove the screw holding the paddle on and install the new one. Make sure the (+ or -) are in the same position as the one you just removed. Reassemble in reverse order. Attachment 978437 These are the extensions I chose. There are many types out there. Attachment 978438 This is the way the look after the swap with the original paddles there to compare them with. Attachment 978439 Take the harness where it is split and split it from top to bottom. Then we need to move the wire in pin 2 of the connector to the pin 1 slot on both harnesses. I used a small flat blade screwdriver to stick under the latch on the connector of the harness and twisted it to unlock one side. I did the same to the other side to raise the plastic pin latch. Next I used the same screwdriver to push down on the pin lock while pulling on the wire at the same time to remove it. Once removed, take a razor blade and lift up the silver pin lock on the pin itself. Push the pin into the #1 slot and listen for a snap indicating it locked in place. Once done, close and lock the pin latch. Attachment 978440 Next we are going to do some bench testing in Part 5. Last edited by BMWE934me; 03-15-2015 at 12:08 PM.. |
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02-14-2014, 08:37 PM | #5 |
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Part 5: Adding Resistors & Bench Testing the Paddles
Part 5: Installing Resistors and Bench Testing.
SEE POST #23 TO BUY A PnP HARNESS or build one yourself with the following instructions. You will need the following items: Resistors: 1 each 1.18k, 4.99k, 0.30k and 6.20k (I bought all of mine from Amazon) Electrical tape or heat shrink Posi-Locks & Posi-Taps (I used mini 20-22 ga) or Soldering equipment. Ohmmeter If you have any questions, please post them and PM me so the I can reply promptly. Attachment 978453 Attachment 978454 Attachment 978455 Attachment 978456 Attachment 978457 Attachment 978458 Attachment 978459 I hope this helps more of you gain confidence in doing this mod yourselves. Please post a question if you have them and follow up with a PM so I am reminded to answer you questions as quickly as possible. Thank you for reading my thread and good luck. Last edited by BMWE934me; 03-15-2015 at 12:08 PM.. |
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03-09-2014, 10:03 PM | #7 |
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If you decide to do this with splices like I showed in the DIY. Splice in longer wires so the slices are not ending up under the Multi-Function switches. I had so much tension under my Right side switch, it crushed the splice and left an open circuit on that paddle. I actually ended up soldering my connections when I re-did it yesterday. The splices will work, just make sure they end up in the lower sides of the steering wheel trim where there is room for them.
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03-24-2014, 02:42 PM | #8 |
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Is it possible to use this DIY to mount the M3 DCT paddles to a DCT equipped 135i?
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03-24-2014, 02:45 PM | #9 |
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03-24-2014, 03:16 PM | #11 |
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03-25-2014, 07:16 AM | #12 | |
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Quote:
I've seen lots of people put the M3 paddles on automatic equipped cars, I want to install them on my DCT equipped car.
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03-25-2014, 09:11 AM | #13 | |
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Would you post a picture of you shifter and steering wheel showing the paddles too please. We'll take this a step at a time and make sure I am telling you the correct information and perhaps we will both learn something. Or your job may just end up being very simple. Thanks |
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03-25-2014, 02:53 PM | #14 |
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The 135i DCT switches are completely different from the M3 DCT switches. Many people have installed M3 DCT switches and paddles in an automatic 135i. I'm hoping this DIY will enable M3 switches with 135i DCT.
The 135i DCT is the same transmission as the 135is DCT and 335is DCT, but has different paddles, switches and console gear selector from the M3 DCT. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. (It's the internet, of course someone will correct me LOL!)
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03-25-2014, 03:05 PM | #15 | |
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Quote:
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03-27-2014, 12:55 PM | #16 |
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the "is" models have different paddles, paddle switches, and gear selector than the DCT equipped M cars. There is no PARK button on the M DCT shifter.
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03-27-2014, 01:13 PM | #17 |
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Now that I know the DCT gearbox can come from the factory with DCT paddles or LCI paddles, that question becomes difficult to answer. The DCT paddle has an open or closed circuit whereas the LCI has a different resistance value for each paddle and each value of resistance is different when the switch is open or closed. If the incorrect signal is given, then it won't work.
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03-28-2014, 02:11 AM | #18 |
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Do the M3 DCT paddles fit exactly the same on the M3 wheel as they do on the M sport wheel? I noticed you got both but ended up preferring the M sport wheel. Something is leading me to believe that there will be more of a gap between the paddles and the wheel (paddles closer to the turn/wiper stalks) on the M sport wheel than on the M3 wheel. Is that true?
Regarding the "incorrect" resistance reading for the "-" paddle, R2 in the photo looks like it's closer to the paddle and when it's sitting closer to the connector in the diagram. Could that be why the reading is off? Obviously, the set up still works for you, but that may be why. One last thing, this thread <http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=872226> shows R2 (in your diagram) being a 348ohm resistor, where you have a 300ohm resistor. Is the difference small enough that it doesn't matter? Thanks for putting this DIY together. Very informative. I just ask a lot of questions. :P |
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03-28-2014, 02:28 AM | #19 |
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2011+ LCI to M3 DCT Paddle Adapter Harness
I'm thinking of building up a short adapter harness (4" or so) using the male and female OEM connectors/contacts, soldering the resistors in-line, and wrapping it up in heat shrink. That way you would not need to modify the M3 DCT paddles at all. Just plug the M3 DCT paddles into the harness, and plug the harness into the MF Button assembly.
These would be specifically for those with 2011+ LCI and want M3 DCT Paddles. If you want to do it yourself, bill-of-materials would include: 2x 61138377072 2x 61136931929 4x 61130005197 4x 61130005198 6.2Kohm resistor 0.3Kohm resistor 4.99Kohm resistor 1.18Kohm resistor heatshrink I may write up a DIY if I do it and I could also build up a couple sets for $50 shipped (parts alone cost about $25 for a set). Anyone interested? |
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03-28-2014, 09:51 AM | #20 | |
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most resistors have a tolerance range of 5%, 10% and higher in some cases. The package label should note this. As long as you are within the tolerance range. It will work like a charm. Good Luck! |
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03-28-2014, 12:00 PM | #21 | |
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03-28-2014, 12:01 PM | #22 |
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