[balkanbemve]

It's the half PE mod because only the driver's side muffler has been modified.

Inside the muffler, both resonator and perforated pipe were replaced with straight pipes, all exhaust packing re-used. With the exhaust flap open the car becomes significantly louder, and with the exhaust flap closed all exhaust is routed through the untouched passenger side muffler resulting in a stock-like, quieter sound. I purchased a valve controller in order to allow me to switch at the click of a button.

Flap closed it sounds exactly like when you first got your car. Quiet, no cabin drone, barely noticeable to those around you.

Flap open at idle you can actually hear the turbo from the exterior. In the cabin, the exhaust is noticeable after 2.3K RPM and after that it is very obvious your exhaust is modified. No rattles, no obnoxious drone, just a hum. Very pleasing to listen to while daily driving. Outside the car the exhaust is noticeable at every RPM, but becomes significantly (not obnoxiously) louder passed that 2.3K mark. At WOT my friends have said that it sounds absolutely amazing. It is a notch or two quieter than a full muffler delete.

Half PE Mod- $185
Valve controller- $90

I love this setup because you get to decide when you want the car quiet or loud.

Soon I will flash with MHD and show how the car sounds flap open with burbles.

I know the wind is annoying, the next video will be without it.

[drunkenup]

Question about these valve controllers-

I recall my old 335i (N54) stock valve behavior upon start up was that the valve stayed open for a split second before closing (as if the engine had to build vacuum).

Is this the case with the controller? Or can the valve be closed before the engine starts, avoiding a split second of open valve operation

[balkanbemve]

Originally Posted by drunkenup

Question about these valve controllers-

I recall my old 335i (N54) stock valve behavior upon start up was that the valve stayed open for a split second before closing (as if the engine had to build vacuum).

Is this the case with the controller? Or can the valve be closed before the engine starts, avoiding a split second of open valve operation

With this controller, the valve remains in the open position at every start up. If you want a quiet cold start you have to press the close button right after starting the car.

[type-dRew]

Originally Posted by drunkenup

Question about these valve controllers-

I recall my old 335i (N54) stock valve behavior upon start up was that the valve stayed open for a split second before closing (as if the engine had to build vacuum).

Is this the case with the controller? Or can the valve be closed before the engine starts, avoiding a split second of open valve operation

The factory valve is default closed. To have it closed for cold start you need to swap the valve to a default closed position unit, which is what I plan on doing since i've done the same exhaust mod as OP. Cold start is awful loud and even if I grab the button right away its already too much. And I haven't even done downpipes yet.

[r335i]

How has it been so far? Looking into doing this as well.

[balkanbemve]

Originally Posted by r335i

How has it been so far? Looking into doing this as well.

It has been worth every penny. I only close the valve on road trips. Even above 2K there is no rattle, weird vibrations, drone, etc. Having the valve has just made it easier to control the sound of the car for different situations i.e neighborhood, kids in car, long drives. Now it sounds really good, but I bet with a downpipe it will sound even better.

[r335i]

Originally Posted by balkanbemve

It has been worth every penny. I only close the valve on road trips. Even above 2K there is no rattle, weird vibrations, drone, etc. Having the valve has just made it easier to control the sound of the car for different situations i.e neighborhood, kids in car, long drives. Now it sounds really good, but I bet with a downpipe it will sound even better.

That's great to hear, glad you enjoy it man. Where did you get the valve controller for $90 as mentioned in the post?

Im surprised there's no drone!

Edit: When do you plan on getting the tune to add in the burbles - would love to see a video of it too.

[balkanbemve]

Originally Posted by r335i

That's great to hear, glad you enjoy it man. Where did you get the valve controller for $90 as mentioned in the post?

Im surprised there's no drone!

Edit: When do you plan on getting the tune to add in the burbles - would love to see a video of it too.

The controller is from valvetronic, I believe its the only plug and play on the market right now. MHD I'll hopefully do in the spring.

[r335i]

Originally Posted by balkanbemve

The controller is from valvetronic, I believe its the only plug and play on the market right now. MHD I'll hopefully do in the spring.

Would you honestly have been fine without doing the controller? Like would you say its not too loud even when cruising the highway or something. Thanks again lol.

[HadA335i]

I did the same thing to my car when I had it. Exhaust is otherwise stock (cats are all there) except for the PE mod on the driver side. Here's a clip with MHD burbles at medium aggressiveness. I have idle revs too but only a sound clip no video.

I basically had the valve open all the time. The difference between open and closed is very little inside the car and can really only be noticed when the windows are up and you have no radio on. There's a tiny bit of drone with the valve open, nothing like a muffler delete. Outside of the car there is a noticeable difference between open and closed especially with the burbles.

I still have the ExhaustMeister valve controller which works just like the Valvetronic one but a bigger box. PM me if you're interested.

[stewbets]

I'm all for this idea (I've done something similar on 2 of my cars), but I don't get the appeal in using a wireless controller for the exhaust flap, other than simplifying the install? Why not spend a half hour routing a wire from the solenoid to your dash and have a proper switch? Not only will this be a ton more convenient to operate day-to-day, but it will keep your valve in whatever position you want instead of reverting to some default every startup. It also only costs a couple bucks. Remotes are great for lots of things. I just don't think this is one of them.

[balkanbemve]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ISeZJbXjwM

New video with exhaust clips!

[balkanbemve]

Finally tuned! I can't believe how the exhaust and burble sounds with just the PE mod.

[Vulcan50]

Originally Posted by stewbets

I'm all for this idea (I've done something similar on 2 of my cars), but I don't get the appeal in using a wireless controller for the exhaust flap, other than simplifying the install? Why not spend a half hour routing a wire from the solenoid to your dash and have a proper switch? Not only will this be a ton more convenient to operate day-to-day, but it will keep your valve in whatever position you want instead of reverting to some default every startup. It also only costs a couple bucks. Remotes are great for lots of things. I just don't think this is one of them.

This is what I did in lieu of the traditional golf tee mod

[Vulcan50]

Why did you do the "half PE" in stead of just cutting off the muffler and just replacing the pipe? (Basically the same thing you have minus the muffler body and packing.) It seems like it would be less work than opening and rewelding the muffler shell.

[balkanbemve]

Originally Posted by Vulcan50

Why did you do the "half PE" in stead of just cutting off the muffler and just replacing the pipe? (Basically the same thing you have minus the muffler body and packing.) It seems like it would be less work than opening and rewelding the muffler shell.

Originally Posted by Vulcan50

Why did you do the "half PE" in stead of just cutting off the muffler and just replacing the pipe? (Basically the same thing you have minus the muffler body and packing.) It seems like it would be less work than opening and rewelding the muffler shell.

It seems like it until you look at the muffler and realize what exactly you have to design. Look at this for example:

https://valvetronic.com/collections/...muffler-bypass

Now that you see it you can imagine how much more that would cost. Throw in the cost of the controller and now you're close to a grand.

[Vulcan50]

Originally Posted by balkanbemve

It seems like it until you look at the muffler and realize what exactly you have to design. Look at this for example:

https://valvetronic.com/collections/...muffler-bypass

Now that you see it you can imagine how much more that would cost. Throw in the cost of the controller and now you're close to a grand.

I've seen that, that's an insane price to begin with. However I see no reason the pipe needs to mimic the stock path. The muffler could be cut off right against the muffler body. That would allow for a straight pipe. From the main run, and like a 20* bend from the connecting pipe to a 90* intersection at the main.

[balkanbemve]

I guess people really liked the Perf mufflers so the PE mod is the way to mimic. But in my case i straight piped both inner and outer pipes, not just the outer. So the muffler would still serve a purpose in either set up because there is still a perforated pipe that allows sound to go into the muffler packing and change the sound. Idk if you have kids or frequent family in the car but having a valve period is perfect.

[Vulcan50]

Originally Posted by balkanbemve

I guess people really liked the Perf mufflers so the PE mod is the way to mimic. But in my case i straight piped both inner and outer pipes, not just the outer. So the muffler would still serve a purpose in either set up because there is still a perforated pipe that allows sound to go into the muffler packing and change the sound. Idk if you have kids or frequent family in the car but having a valve period is perfect.

For sure, I'm planning similar, definitely keeping the valve I just wondered if there's a benefit to getting rid of both of the perf pipes in the driverside muffler. Like what's the point of replacing the packing? Does it help with an vibration or something?

I like the idea of ditching the muffler body entirely, but keeping the valve, like the valvetronic one. And ditching the weight.

But was wondering if there's a benefit to replacing the perf pipe.

[balkanbemve]

Originally Posted by Vulcan50

For sure, I'm planning similar, definitely keeping the valve I just wondered if there's a benefit to getting rid of both of the perf pipes in the driverside muffler. Like what's the point of replacing the packing? Does it help with an vibration or something?

I like the idea of ditching the muffler body entirely, but keeping the valve, like the valvetronic one. And ditching the weight.

But was wondering if there's a benefit to replacing the perf pipe.

Originally Posted by Vulcan50

For sure, I'm planning similar, definitely keeping the valve I just wondered if there's a benefit to getting rid of both of the perf pipes in the driverside muffler. Like what's the point of replacing the packing? Does it help with an vibration or something?

I like the idea of ditching the muffler body entirely, but keeping the valve, like the valvetronic one. And ditching the weight.

But was wondering if there's a benefit to replacing the perf pipe.

So I straight piped both just to maximize sound from that side. I wanted valve open to be as loud as possible and then valve closed to be completely stock sounding. Honestly, if you can get the valvetronic style for cheaper than the PE mod itself then definitely do it for a bit of weight savings. I just got a killer deal on the drivers PE so i went for it.

[Vulcan50]

I wonder if the weight of the muffler body is beneficial in terms of sound? More mass is harder to vibrate. I wonder what happens as far as harmonics (does it get annoying) with the valvetronic...