[JessiV909]

Hello, Before I start Explaining I have No Lights On in my dashboard!!.
First issue my bmw 325i 2006 has a kinda rough idle only at startup then goes away after a min. It does it all the time when starting it up. Sometimes it likes revs the car which makes my rpms go higher for a quick second

Second problem is that my car turned off on me 4 times at a complete stop. When it turns off it shows the yellow Transmission light, Dsc Light and Brake light. And at one point when I was driving The transmission Limp Mode light came on.

Third issue is I hear a light blowing/Air leak sort of sound coming in front of driver side. You can only hear it when accelerating over 15 or 20+ miles and only when pressing the pedal. Feels like it pulls back when driving at points.

Forth issue is that before coming to a complete stop my car jerks. Like it slips when going from 2 to first gear. Also took car to a transmission shop and said it has nothing to do with the transmission itself but maybe the Computer inside the transmission. The car does not slip on any gears when driving it's perfect.

My car has 124,000 Miles and things I have done are
Cleaned Throttle Body recently
Coolant flushed/Changed Recently
Alternator Change Recently
Battery Changed recently
Serpentine Belt changed recently

What can be causing these problems?


Thanks you for your time. Thanks

[MadDog89]

Originally Posted by JessiV909

Hello, Before I start Explaining I have No Lights On in my dashboard!!.
First issue my bmw 325i 2006 has a kinda rough idle only at startup then goes away after a min. It does it all the time when starting it up. Sometimes it likes revs the car which makes my rpms go higher for a quick second

Second problem is that my car turned off on me 4 times at a complete stop. When it turns off it shows the yellow Transmission light, Dsc Light and Brake light. And at one point when I was driving The transmission Limp Mode light came on.

Third issue is I hear a light blowing/Air leak sort of sound coming in front of driver side. You can only hear it when accelerating over 15 or 20+ miles and only when pressing the pedal. Feels like it pulls back when driving at points.

Forth issue is that before coming to a complete stop my car jerks. Like it slips when going from 2 to first gear. Also took car to a transmission shop and said it has nothing to do with the transmission itself but maybe the Computer inside the transmission. The car does not slip on any gears when driving it's perfect.

My car has 124,000 Miles and things I have done are
Cleaned Throttle Body recently
Coolant flushed/Changed Recently
Alternator Change Recently
Battery Changed recently
Serpentine Belt changed recently

What can be causing these problems?


Thanks you for your time. Thanks

First things first, did you get a genuine BMW battery?

I read folks have weird problems due to battery, apparently these cars are very sensitive when it comes to electric. Did you notice any of those things you mentioned prior to replacing battery?

[smass]

When it is idling rough, remove the oil cap and see if the idle changes. If not, there is a vacuum leak. Check the hose from the back of the valve cover to the oil separator. It can break inside the foam.

Low transmission fluid can cause the car to stall when coming to a stop but see below.

2-1 bump is a solenoid in the transmission. This usually gets worse when the fluid is hot. You can duplicate the issue shifting manually 1-2, 2-1 while stopped. There is a chance that the bad solenoid issue is also causing the stalling issue above. A set of ZF solenoids is $300.

[MadDog89]

Originally Posted by JessiV909

Nope only had the braking issue. Not the stalling

Previous owner of my 335 also had stalling problems, turned out to be the new battery he put in.

[tcphoto]

Why do people quote a previous post when replying? Especially when they are lengthy.

Odds are the new battery wasn’t registered or not a direct replacement. Secondly, the stalls are from a vacuum leak. Those rubber hoses are likely fourteen years old and are cracked or brittle and need to be replaced. When it’s cold, those vacuum hoses are expanding and contracting, you may not have a CEL but it is a matter of time.

[JessiV909]

Originally Posted by smass

When it is idling rough, remove the oil cap and see if the idle changes. If not, there is a vacuum leak. Check the hose from the back of the valve cover to the oil separator. It can break inside the foam.

Low transmission fluid can cause the car to stall when coming to a stop but see below.

2-1 bump is a solenoid in the transmission. This usually gets worse when the fluid is hot. You can duplicate the issue shifting manually 1-2, 2-1 while stopped. There is a chance that the bad solenoid issue is also causing the stalling issue above. A set of ZF solenoids is $300.

The car only jerk when going from 2-1 is what the transmission shop told me. When driving and put into Neutral then braking for complete stop, it does not jerk. And that is why he said it's not the transmission and said it might be because of the computer

[MadDog89]

Originally Posted by tcphoto

Why do people quote a previous post when replying? Especially when they are lengthy.

Odds are the new battery wasn’t registered or not a direct replacement. Secondly, the stalls are from a vacuum leak. Those rubber hoses are likely fourteen years old and are cracked or brittle and need to be replaced. When it’s cold, those vacuum hoses are expanding and contracting, you may not have a CEL but it is a matter of time.

maybe just a habit, does it bother you?

He did state it was fine before he replaced all the things mentioned. I'd replace all vacuum hoses anyway, but my money is on the battery.

[tcphoto]

Try reading threads when people do this and then add pictures to it and it’s annoying. It seems like the new members are guilty of doing it.

[MadDog89]

Originally Posted by tcphoto

Try reading threads when people do this and then add pictures to it and it’s annoying. It seems like the new members are guilty of doing it.

I know what you mean, btw what kind of bumper do you have?

[tcphoto]

The previous owner added an Aero Front Lip to the bumper. I'd love to replace it with a Sport bumper with a lip in the future.

http://www.**********s.com/OEM-BMW-M...3-3-Series.htm

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by JessiV909

...I have No Lights On in my dashboard!!. [I presume you mean NO Warning Lights (including SES) appear on the Instrument Cluster after engine Startup? No lights on dashboard would indicate a power supply problem, KOMBI problem, etc. ] First issue my bmw 325i 2006 has a kinda rough idle only at startup then goes away after a min. It does it all the time when starting it up. Sometimes it likes revs the car which makes my rpms go higher for a quick second. Second problem is that my car turned off on me 4 times at a complete stop. [Engine Stalling when the car stops at light, etc. is likely a part of the same issue as rough idle. They usually go together due to a "Vacuum Leak" or "Too Lean" fueling.]...Cleaned Throttle Body recently...

My suggestion is to address a likely Vacuum Leak issue first, so I omitted any part of your initial post that is UN-related to that issue. Reading any Fault Codes saved in the DME (whether P-codes or Hex-codes), and observing Fuel Trims with a Scan Tool would be the place to start. Also, try driving with the MAF Sensor Connector DIS-connected, and see if rough idle and stalling symptoms improve (the SES should light as the DME is NOT receiving a signal from the MAF Sensor). If you don't have any type of Scan Tool, just stop by an Advance Auto or Autozone and get the codes read, along with Freeze Frame Data if they will do that. Take a photo of any Scan Tool Screen and attach a jpg to your post here.

If the rough idle & stalling began AFTER cleaning throttle body, a vacuum leak may have been due to improper RE-install of air ducts.

Please let us know information requested above, and any Fault Codes, FF Data, and whether YOU have any Scan Tool that can read Parmeters such as Fuel Trims as Live Data.

George

[JessiV909]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

My suggestion is to address a likely Vacuum Leak issue first, so I omitted any part of your initial post that is UN-related to that issue. Reading any Fault Codes saved in the DME (whether P-codes or Hex-codes), and observing Fuel Trims with a Scan Tool would be the place to start. Also, try driving with the MAF Sensor Connector DIS-connected, and see if rough idle and stalling symptoms improve (the SES should light as the DME is NOT receiving a signal from the MAF Sensor). If you don't have any type of Scan Tool, just stop by an Advance Auto or Autozone and get the codes read, along with Freeze Frame Data if they will do that. Take a photo of any Scan Tool Screen and attach a jpg to your post here.

If the rough idle & stalling began AFTER cleaning throttle body, a vacuum leak may have been due to improper RE-install of air ducts.

Please let us know information requested above, and any Fault Codes, FF Data, and whether YOU have any Scan Tool that can read Parmeters such as Fuel Trims as Live Data.

George

Turns out to be The shaft senor and PCV Valve

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by JessiV909

Turns out to be The shaft senor and PCV Valve

If you want help from anyone on the forum, you need to provide FACTS: (Warning Lights, Fault Codes, Test Results, etc.). What you have provided appears to be the conclusion or opinion of some unidentified person/shop. You have NOT identified the FACTS that person relied upon in reaching the conclusion or opinion. See response to your OTHER thread on this issue which you began today.

I realize that you appear to be having to rely on opinions of others related to technical issues you do NOT understand, and I understand how frustrating that can be. I am simply trying to explain WHY no one else can offer any proper advice without FACTS as opposed to YOUR understanding of the opinion of someone else, which has apparently been poorly communicated or understood.

George