[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by turbohugh

Can you share more info about your 'method' and devices?

Thanks in advance,

I'll only say i used 0.212" outward offset. I came up with a clever way to hold lens in and it wasn't a 3" plumbing part.

Earlier poster said the lens holder is fragile and will break when you remove the OE lens. This is mostly untrue. I did eventually break one of the 3 lens holder fingers but this was my fault. I flexed the finger too far while fitting my "adapter".

[BB_cuda]

D2S can go into projectors using this bulb holder I found. Let’s you use the D1S style clip and D2S is inserted into front of metal box.

[GearHead335i]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

D2S can go into projectors using this bulb holder I found. Let’s you use the D1S style clip and D2S is inserted into front of metal box.

I’ve heard using the d1s —> d2s igniter adapters gives a better light output than running the d1s bulb. Did you see an increase in light output switching to d2s bulbs?

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by Quinnhogue7

I’ve heard using the d1s —> d2s igniter adapters gives a better light output than running the d1s bulb. Did you see an increase in light output switching to d2s bulbs?

Lights not mounted into car yet. My main motivation to converting to D2S is running a boosted ballast. Going to 50W. Our OE D1S ballasts run at 35W each.

I should have a appreciable increase going to clear lens and focused in first place. Add in the 15W bump (that's a 42% increase from 35), i should see lots better. My 335d has fog light delete so I'm missing those. I changed front bumper to M3 rep and went with the large M3 air ducts with no fogs anymore.

[GearHead335i]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Lights not mounted into car yet. My main motivation to converting to D2S is running a boosted ballast. Going to 50W. Our OE D1S ballasts run at 35W each.

I should have a appreciable increase going to clear lens and focused in first place. Add in the 15W bump (that's a 42% increase from 35), i should see lots better. My 335d has fog light delete so I'm missing those. I changed front bumper to M3 rep and went with the large M3 air ducts with no fogs anymore.

Lol same thing for me on my 335i xDrive, went with M3 front bumper and air ducts so no fogs. Can you send me the link to which 50W ballasts you are using?

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by Quinnhogue7

Lol same thing for me on my 335i xDrive, went with M3 front bumper and air ducts so no fogs. Can you send me the link to which 50W ballasts you are using?

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/oe...202?quantity=1

This ballast is old school Hella Gen 3. A friend takes these and changes out a few parts to boost the output up from 35W to 50W. They can be boosted in several increments from 43W up to 55W though. I chose to stay at 50W and try not to burn up the chrome in the E90 projector bowl. I believe there is a resistor that changes with the amount of boost you want. I'll add in his company name when I come across it.

[rod.bearings]

Just finished my retrofit. I had the sti-r lens but had a hard time getting it focused properly. I ended up ditching the whole idea and got some brackets to replace the stock gimbal. By using a G5-R projector I was able to utilize the stock D1s connector.

Still need to adjust the beams as they are too close together but happy with the results

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by krazi3azn

Just finished my retrofit. I had the sti-r lens but had a hard time getting it focused properly. I ended up ditching the whole idea and got some brackets to replace the stock gimbal. By using a G5-R projector I was able to utilize the stock D1s connector.

Still need to adjust the beams as they are too close together but happy with the results

With respect to trying to get STi-R lens focused, what outspacing did you try? 4 paper spacers gave me a sharp line but yellow in color.
Each spacer is about 0.027”. I had adapter made at this thickness. The adapter was just barely not as good. So I started adding spacers to it.
Long story short, I had 3 iterations of spacers going further and further out until I arrived at a nice blue cutoff equivalent to 8 spacer thickness.
That is approx 0.216” or 5.47mm.

I solid modeled it and made an .stl file each time. Buddy in town 3D printed each iteration for me.