[Hoper]

First things first, Brule is a legend and most of the info here comes from his post within his Darwin RB Turbo thread, see below
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=976234

I wouldn't have managed to get this done without the info you posted mate, so thanks very much

I've taken quite a few photo's and will try and line it all up to see if I can make it easy to follow, so here goes

[Hoper]

From Brule's thread (you'll see quite a lot of that, thanks Brule)

Things to be removed

Always disconnect your battery or things can stuff up and waste time trouble shooting later. Its in the boot on the Right hand side and you need a 10mm spanner

Turn the black knob on the trim so it's vertical and the trim will come off

The remove one of the battery connectors, the negative is easier to get off

[Hoper]

I removed my intercooler so I had room to remove the outlets once they were disconnected

I then followed Brule's advice again and removed the vacuum canisters and the coolant tank to make sure I had enough room to get in there

Easiest (not too messy if you have a bucket) way to drain the coolant is to take this hose off

Vacumm canisters have connectors on the top and bottom, remove the whole vacuum canister mount its easier and only has 2 bolts.

You will find these clips on the top and bottom hose of the coolant tank, just lift them with a small flathead screwdriver and the hoses come off with a small amount of wriggling

[Hoper]

Once again thanks Brule there's a thermostat under the coolant tank, you need to turn it about a quarter turn anti clockwise and then it comes out.

[Hoper]

Now you need to remove the boost solenoids and heat shield that they're mounted on, 1st remove the boost solenoids then the heat shield, the boost solenoid bolts are obvious, they're 10mm, the heat shield bolts are just under the lip of the heat shield, there are 4 of them and they're small torx bit

[Hoper]

Now you get to undo the outlet clamps, a 5mm allen key is what you need, the front one is relatively easy, I found that I could undo the rear one from underneath the car, putting my hand up past the down pipes

[Hoper]

Once you have the clamps undone you can remove the outlets, I cut the rubber join that was hidden under the heat tube between the front and rear outlets to make it easier to manipulate the pipes out of the engine bay
To get the OEM rear outlet past the steering column, I had to rotate it about 90 Deg clockwise and move the end of the outlet down and towards the front of the car, I could do this easily once I'd separated the front from the rear outlets (by cutting the rubber joiner as mentioned above)

[Hoper]

Off to bed now, will finish up the posts tomorrow, it's pretty much finished, spent 4 hours and the rear outlet is on and the rest of the outlets have been test fit, need to do some adjustments and bolt it all back together tomorrow and Wednesday

[Montye90]

Thanks for doing this Hoper and Brule, much appreciated guys. This will be very handy!

[Tinsta]

Thanks for the DIY, just got my outlets, and had a query ref the heat shield bolts, one snapped off due to being old n rusty. Did you remove the old shielding in favour of the new RB one? Or does the RB one fit alongside the oem shield?

thanks

[Brule]

The rb shield takes place of the old one.

Try using penetr8 for rusty stuff. Spray it on anything else a bit suspect if rust

[Hoper]

Originally Posted by Tinsta

Thanks for the DIY, just got my outlets, and had a query ref the heat shield bolts, one snapped off due to being old n rusty. Did you remove the old shielding in favour of the new RB one? Or does the RB one fit alongside the oem shield?

thanks

Sorry guys, life, work, kids and golf have kept me v busy, will finish this off in the next week

I haven't fitted the heat shields yet, but am planning on fitting both as the original faces upwards and the new one faces downwards, haven't looked at it properly yet but I think I can make it work

this means I keep the original mounting for the boost control solenoids and the mounting clips that kept all the wires in place

[Armadyllo]

Great work Brule and Hoper

I will be following this closely for my install

Thanks

[Tinsta]

Originally Posted by Hoper

Sorry guys, life, work, kids and golf have kept me v busy, will finish this off in the next week

I haven't fitted the heat shields yet, but am planning on fitting both as the original faces upwards and the new one faces downwards, haven't looked at it properly yet but I think I can make it work

this means I keep the original mounting for the boost control solenoids and the mounting clips that kept all the wires in place

No worries, thanks for taking the time and effort to do the DIY.

Interesting on having both shields inplace, I did wonder that, would need longer bolts, but guess the RB one would be sufficient as its directing the heat aware from the solenoids/wiring etc.

[Hoper]

So now your ready to drill the holes that Brule showed in his post, see 1st picture from Brule's post, you need to drill where the red circles are and the white circles are existing holes.

You will need to remove the inner guard trim to see where the holes go, see pics for info

Now for the warning, don't be an FWIT like me and damage your steering column by being aggressive with the drill just to put a hole in the heat shield, see picture for which hole I'm talking about

The risk of doing this with the other holes is lower but still there, see picture of my steering column

I'm now waiting for my replacement to arrive

Note its approx $400 plus postage for a new one, I managed to get a 2nd hand one from the UK for $80 inc postage (Part number 32306781591)

[Hoper]

Next you'll need to tidy up where the holes come through to make sure that the silicon outlets don't get damaged.

To fit the rear outlet onto the turbo you need to push it all the up to the firewall just under the steering column, it's a tight fit, but it does fit.

As Brule said, push it through further than you think you need to, so it kind of holds itself in place when you fit the end into the Turbo.

Make sure that the clamp will catch when you push the ends together, that will allow you to thread the bolt easily.

I used a helper with a long screwdriver holding the clamp from the top while I gave it some pressure from below until I heard it click, then I was able to get the bolt started from below the car

[jamesmurray]

Hi, I've got a set of PS2's being installed along with these RHD outlets in the next week or so and I'm a little concerned about having to drill holes in the inner wing to fit these. Is this really necessary as I thought the original idea was that they were a straight fit and avoided the steering shaft completely? thanks

James

[Hoper]

Originally Posted by jamesmurray

Hi, I've got a set of PS2's being installed along with these RHD outlets in the next week or so and I'm a little concerned about having to drill holes in the inner wing to fit these. Is this really necessary as I thought the original idea was that they were a straight fit and avoided the steering shaft completely? thanks

James

Hi James they are a straight fit, the holes in the wing allow you to put the cable ties through to make sure that the outlets are fastened to the inside of the wing

You could run without the cable ties I guess, as the outlets are pretty stable once they're installed and in my case they ran down the wing without the cable ties, I guess 2 additional holes in the inner wing didn't bother me and gave me the piece of mind that they wouldn't move around, for the sake of 2 holes I'd install the cable ties, or at the very least find a way to fasten the outlets to the inner side of the wing/guard

[Socket]

Disappointed you didn't use comic sans mate

[NZ-M340ixDrive]

Bump

I have a set being installed in a few weeks.
I’m New Zealand based so fingers crossed all goes well.
I’m also eventually going RB turbos

[NapsterAU]

How restrictive are the stock outlets for stock turbos?
The squish on the rear pips is crazy and surely must be affecting the flow?

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by NapsterAU

How restrictive are the stock outlets for stock turbos?
The squish on the rear pips is crazy and surely must be affecting the flow?

I agree with you that the squished area must be affecting the flow. However, I ran a 11.28s run with Classic RBs and E60 fuel using the stock squished outlets.