[vncung]

Anyone familiar with this please help me find what's wrong.
Before this, I had a bunch of electrical issues which were caused by the voltage regulator. Also, my battery was fried.
I just put in a new battery and replaced the voltage regulator which solved all the issues I had.
Now I'm left with this alternator code.
Car is operating normal.




From google translator
Typ unplausibel- type implausible
Testbedingungen erfullt- test condition met
Fehler momentan vorhanden, obd-entprellt- error currently exists, obd-debounced
Fehler verursacht kein aufleuchten der warnlampe- error does not cause the warning lamp to light up

[dpaul]

Since you've replaced the regulator this likely means your alternator is done for.

However, first check to make sure the BSD wire is securely plugged into the alternator and check if the voltage output is appropriate - should be 13.5-14.8 at the jumper terminal in the engine compartment with the engine running.

I'll presume that the BSD control wire is OK and that you do not have the correct voltage, in which case my next step would be alternator replacement.

How many miles on the alternator?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by vncung

...I had a bunch of electrical issues which were caused by the voltage regulator. Also, my battery was fried. I just put in a new battery and replaced the voltage regulator which solved all the issues I had. Now I'm left with this alternator code. [2E97 per INPA with definitions below] Car is operating normal.

...Typ unplausibel- type implausible...Fehler momentan vorhanden, obd-entprellt- error currently exists, obd-debounced
Fehler verursacht kein aufleuchten der warnlampe- error does not cause the warning lamp to light up

Have you tested system voltage with engine running to make sure it is in 13.5 - 14.8 Volt Range? If so, the Alternator output/function is corrected. I presume from your description that the prior issue, BEFORE replacement of the Voltage Regulator was "Overvoltage" or voltage > 15.0V with engine running?

My interpretation of that code and Definition (Type Implausible) is that the DME/Power Module does NOT recognize the new Alternator Electronics (Voltage Regulator). German "Typ" when used in a technical sense would appear to mean Model or Version (NOT dude ;-). Since the Fault is "Currently Present", it appears that the fault pertains to the NEW configuration, but there MAY have been instances of that fault being saved BEFORE your recent repair. Using INPA, I would check "F3 Read Fault Memory with Freeze Frame Data" to get the MOST detail you can on the number of instances that code was saved, and the mileage/km range when code was saved if multiple instances, along with your current mileage.

In other words, if you do NOT have the OEM Bosch (or whatever) Alternator installed, and/or did NOT replace the Regulator with the correct Bosch Regulator for 180 Amp Bosch Alternator (or Alternator actually installed), then that would appear to explain the "Implausible" signal. As "dpaul" suggests, if the "Implausible" fault relates to a signal received FROM the alternator, that signal would be via the BSD line that plugs into the Regulator, so check to make sure that connector's pins/ sockets are clean & it is firmly connected.

While using INPA, you can also view, save screenprint, and post jpg here:
1) Alternator Identification (Identifikation Generator) as well as
2) Alternator Measured Values or Parameter Readout (Generator Messwerte), printscreen with motor running at idle.

If the current setup is operating properly at the proper Voltage Range with engine running, and it is keeping the battery charged, with NO battery warning light on the Dash, and No "lightshow" with multiple unrelated warning icons (a sign of Overvoltage), then since this fault does NOT light a warning lamp, it appears to be mostly an academic issue.

QUESTIONS:
1) I presume you did NOT record "Alternator Identification" BEFORE the original fault damaged the battery & required battery & Regulator replacement?
2) What Make, Model & Amp Rating Alternator is in the vehicle?
3) What BMW part# Regulator did you determine to be correct for your vehicle?
4) What part did you get as Regulator replacement, its brand, part# & source/supplier?
5) What is the build Month/Year of your 2007 335i? Be aware that changes in electrical system were made 3/1/2007 in middle of 2007 run.

BMW Fault Code Lookup, Fault Information, for 2E97 suggests that there is an "Overtemperature" condition, possibly caused by obstructed air flow. That is NOT the definition given by INPA, and I would tend to believe INPA in this instance, but use Alternator Measured Values (Generator Messwerte) to confirm all is well. Chip Temperature (top right bar graph on mine) should NOT exceed 135C as displayed on that INPA screen.

George

[Diawal91]

Originally Posted by dpaul

Since you've replaced the regulator this likely means your alternator is done for.

However, first check to make sure the BSD wire is securely plugged into the alternator and check if the voltage output is appropriate - should be 13.5-14.8 at the jumper terminal in the engine compartment with the engine running.

I'll presume that the BSD control wire is OK and that you do not have the correct voltage, in which case my next step would be alternator replacement.

How many miles on the alternator?

+1

[vncung]

Originally Posted by dpaul

Since you've replaced the regulator this likely means your alternator is done for.

However, first check to make sure the BSD wire is securely plugged into the alternator and check if the voltage output is appropriate - should be 13.5-14.8 at the jumper terminal in the engine compartment with the engine running.

I'll presume that the BSD control wire is OK and that you do not have the correct voltage, in which case my next step would be alternator replacement.

How many miles on the alternator?

Car still low mileage only at 79k miles.
I have been checking voltage while the motor is running and it’s always consistent in the good range 13.5 - 14.8

[vncung]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Have you tested system voltage with engine running to make sure it is in 13.5 - 14.8 Volt Range? If so, the Alternator output/function is corrected. I presume from your description that the prior issue, BEFORE replacement of the Voltage Regulator was "Overvoltage" or voltage > 15.0V with engine running?

My interpretation of that code and Definition (Type Implausible) is that the DME/Power Module does NOT recognize the new Alternator Electronics (Voltage Regulator). German "Typ" when used in a technical sense would appear to mean Model or Version (NOT dude ;-). Since the Fault is "Currently Present", it appears that the fault pertains to the NEW configuration, but there MAY have been instances of that fault being saved BEFORE your recent repair. Using INPA, I would check "F3 Read Fault Memory with Freeze Frame Data" to get the MOST detail you can on the number of instances that code was saved, and the mileage/km range when code was saved if multiple instances, along with your current mileage.

In other words, if you do NOT have the OEM Bosch (or whatever) Alternator installed, and/or did NOT replace the Regulator with the correct Bosch Regulator for 180 Amp Bosch Alternator (or Alternator actually installed), then that would appear to explain the "Implausible" signal. As "dpaul" suggests, if the "Implausible" fault relates to a signal received FROM the alternator, that signal would be via the BSD line that plugs into the Regulator, so check to make sure that connector's pins/ sockets are clean & it is firmly connected.

While using INPA, you can also view, save screenprint, and post jpg here:
1) Alternator Identification (Identifikation Generator) as well as
2) Alternator Measured Values or Parameter Readout (Generator Messwerte), printscreen with motor running at idle.

If the current setup is operating properly at the proper Voltage Range with engine running, and it is keeping the battery charged, with NO battery warning light on the Dash, and No "lightshow" with multiple unrelated warning icons (a sign of Overvoltage), then since this fault does NOT light a warning lamp, it appears to be mostly an academic issue.

QUESTIONS:
1) I presume you did NOT record "Alternator Identification" BEFORE the original fault damaged the battery & required battery & Regulator replacement?
2) What Make, Model & Amp Rating Alternator is in the vehicle?
3) What BMW part# Regulator did you determine to be correct for your vehicle?
4) What part did you get as Regulator replacement, its brand, part# & source/supplier?
5) What is the build Month/Year of your 2007 335i? Be aware that changes in electrical system were made 3/1/2007 in middle of 2007 run.

BMW Fault Code Lookup, Fault Information, for 2E97 suggests that there is an "Overtemperature" condition, possibly caused by obstructed air flow. That is NOT the definition given by INPA, and I would tend to believe INPA in this instance, but use Alternator Measured Values (Generator Messwerte) to confirm all is well. Chip Temperature (top right bar graph on mine) should NOT exceed 135C as displayed on that INPA screen.

George

It’s been a week now. Code 2e97 is still there but
No battery light, alternator is charging the battery fine.
I haven’t had a chance to check out the BSD cable yet.
You are correct. before I replace the voltage regulator, voltage was at 17 while motor was running. (it fried my battery down to 4v)

To answer your questions
1. No
2. I believe it’s still the original Bosch 180amp since car only has 79k miles
3, 4. I bought the OEM bosh voltage regulator from pelican parts here
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/12317561939M14.htm?pn=12-31-7-561-939-M14&bt=Y&fs=0&SVSVSI=
5. Idk that info yet.

Thank you guys

[banglenot]

You can test the alternator control with INPA.

There is a function on INPA that allows you to set the voltage in 1V increments between 10 and 14 or 15V. It will then show you what the output voltage is. This tests the voltage control of the alt-regulator combo.

If I recall, an unplugged BSD bus will cause the alternator to default to a specific voltage and stay there.

So if you test the ability to set and reset voltage output, and it responds, the BSD bus is working.

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by banglenot

You can test the alternator control with INPA.

There is a function on INPA that allows you to set the voltage in 1V increments between 10 and 14 or 15V. It will then show you what the output voltage is. This tests the voltage control of the alt-regulator combo.

If I recall, an unplugged BSD bus will cause the alternator to default to a specific voltage and stay there.

So if you test the ability to set and reset voltage output, and it responds, the BSD bus is working.

+1

[vncung]

Originally Posted by banglenot

You can test the alternator control with INPA.

There is a function on INPA that allows you to set the voltage in 1V increments between 10 and 14 or 15V. It will then show you what the output voltage is. This tests the voltage control of the alt-regulator combo.

If I recall, an unplugged BSD bus will cause the alternator to default to a specific voltage and stay there.

So if you test the ability to set and reset voltage output, and it responds, the BSD bus is working.

How to test the alternator using inpa?