[icon2015]

jblood Your issue is not at JBBF, this is a common issue for all E89 series with your type of fuse panel. BMW had a recall for some cars, and ignored the others.

The issue is a bad connection from the main (+) cable (a big red one) to the fuse panel. This bad connection affect the pin of the cable as well as the pin of the fuse box. To address this issue it is recommended that you change both of them.

Now, if I were in your shoes, I would buy at first the repair kit from BMW for this issue, this alone might solve the problem. After you will buy the repair kit you will face a new problem, you will need a BIG clamp or a special tool to merge the 2 cables, BMW says to NOT solder them.

The cable: 61129312133 ex(I am sure you can find a store closer to you to buy it from, even a BMW dealership): https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...us-61129312133

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by jblood

Update: I swapped out the originally suspected bad component and it did NOT fix the problem. We bench tested the relay itself (independent of the PCB) and it operated properly when cold.
So, I went back to the drawing board and used another method to narrow down the part of the circuit that is failing. I bought a can of "cold spray" so I could freeze localized areas of the circuit. I worked my way through the board using the cold spray to freeze and a hair dryer to rewarm. After freezing sections of the board, I would plug the JBE in and listen for clicking. Once I got it to click, I would warm with the hair dryer and the clicking would stop. I was able to isolate the problem (I believe) to a different relay.

Very clever test technique with Cold Spray & Heat Gun! I have a suggestion of different concept of WHAT to test for/suspect: As opposed to (a) a failed component on the board, (b) a failed solder joint or connection of a component or connector pin/socket to the board.

The best clue so far is that pulling fuses which Power the devices controlled by the JBE (the rear windows & Locks) showed that pulling fuse F79 stopped the clicking when cold circuit board. F79 is for "Protected Circuit: Wiper Control" according to Bentley. That is NOT direct power to the Wiper Motor, but "Wiper Control" or power provided by the JBE to the Wiper Motor in the "Park" function I believe. Here is the TIS circuit for your wipers on a 2009 E90:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...inputs/upOxh9C

BTW, I recall you said in your initial post in this thread that there is an undefined issue with the wipers when the clicking is occurring. What is that issue? Do the wipers work in ANY mode: slow, fast, intermittent, single stroke, etc.? Does the park function NOT work, leaving the wipers UP on the windshield in random positions?

Note that the JBE powers the "Park" function via the Brown Green Wire, Pin #35 of Connector X14271. Now you say: that can't be it 'cuz it happens when X14271 is disconnected. My theory is that there is a circuit board solder joint/ connection issue somewhere between Pin #22 of Connector X04010 where F79 power enters the JBE and Pin #35 of Connector X14271.

I don't have any expertise in finding documentation on, or tracing circuit boards in, the JBE, so good luck finding anything. The only thing I know to do is to start at Pin #22 of X04010 where power from F79 enters the JBE, and test for resistance significantly > 0 between Pin #22 and points/ components along the board conductor line.

Please let us know what you find,
George

[jblood]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Very clever test technique with Cold Spray & Heat Gun! I have a suggestion of different concept of WHAT to test for/suspect: As opposed to (a) a failed component on the board, (b) a failed solder joint or connection of a component or connector pin/socket to the board.

The best clue so far is that pulling fuses which Power the devices controlled by the JBE (the rear windows & Locks) showed that pulling fuse F79 stopped the clicking when cold circuit board. F79 is for "Protected Circuit: Wiper Control" according to Bentley. That is NOT direct power to the Wiper Motor, but "Wiper Control" or power provided by the JBE to the Wiper Motor in the "Park" function I believe. Here is the TIS circuit for your wipers on a 2009 E90:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...inputs/upOxh9C

BTW, I recall you said in your initial post in this thread that there is an undefined issue with the wipers when the clicking is occurring. What is that issue? Do the wipers work in ANY mode: slow, fast, intermittent, single stroke, etc.? Does the park function NOT work, leaving the wipers UP on the windshield in random positions?

Note that the JBE powers the "Park" function via the Brown Green Wire, Pin #35 of Connector X14271. Now you say: that can't be it 'cuz it happens when X14271 is disconnected. My theory is that there is a circuit board solder joint/ connection issue somewhere between Pin #22 of Connector X04010 where F79 power enters the JBE and Pin #35 of Connector X14271.

I don't have any expertise in finding documentation on, or tracing circuit boards in, the JBE, so good luck finding anything. The only thing I know to do is to start at Pin #22 of X04010 where power from F79 enters the JBE, and test for resistance significantly > 0 between Pin #22 and points/ components along the board conductor line.

Please let us know what you find,
George

George - I concur with you completely. So far, this only indicates a problem with the printed circuit board assembly and not necessarily the component itself. Thanks for the diagram and pinout!! This will be very helpful.

My wipers do not function at all when the car is cold. As it warms, the wipers will move but then stall, then restart sort of erratically. Eventually, when the car is fully heated, the wipers return to normal functionality.

[jblood]

Originally Posted by icon2015

jblood Your issue is not at JBBF, this is a common issue for all E89 series with your type of fuse panel. BMW had a recall for some cars, and ignored the others.

The issue is a bad connection from the main (+) cable (a big red one) to the fuse panel. This bad connection affect the pin of the cable as well as the pin of the fuse box. To address this issue it is recommended that you change both of them.

Now, if I were in your shoes, I would buy at first the repair kit from BMW for this issue, this alone might solve the problem. After you will buy the repair kit you will face a new problem, you will need a BIG clamp or a special tool to merge the 2 cables, BMW says to NOT solder them.

The cable: 61129312133 ex(I am sure you can find a store closer to you to buy it from, even a BMW dealership): https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...us-61129312133

@icon2015 Thanks for this. This is interesting. I am down the Printed Circuit Board rabbit hole now but if this doesn't solve the problem, I will definitely go here next.

[smallseafishie]

Your problem sounds like a bad battery or poor contacts of the main B+ wire going into the fuse box. Check to see if the recall has been done. If not, let the dealer do it. :-)

If you eliminate those two factors... here are some other considerations / points of failure.

1) Make sure the car has the correct battery size and type (AGM or Wet Cell) installed. If not, code the car the type of battery installed.

2) Initialize the battery in INPA. You can look at the last time it was initialized if you aren't the original owner.

Those two points above can cause very strange electrical symptoms. Simple checks.

3) Lastly, I had the main relay go bad on a project e91 of mine. I swapped around the wiper relay with the master relay and confirmed my suspicions.

[mweisdorfer]

Moisture is getting in somewhere. I have had my car for 10 years and driven in it in -30 degree weather. No issues.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by icon2015

jblood Your issue is not at JBBF, this is a common issue for all E89 series with your type of fuse panel. BMW had a recall for some cars, and ignored the others.

The issue is a bad connection from the main (+) cable (a big red one) to the fuse panel. This bad connection affect the pin of the cable as well as the pin of the fuse box. To address this issue it is recommended that you change both of them.

Now, if I were in your shoes, I would buy at first the repair kit from BMW for this issue, this alone might solve the problem. After you will buy the repair kit you will face a new problem, you will need a BIG clamp or a special tool to merge the 2 cables, BMW says to NOT solder them.

The cable: 61129312133 ex(I am sure you can find a store closer to you to buy it from, even a BMW dealership): https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...us-61129312133

tool isn't a hard thing to come by
https://www.amazon.com/Yescom-Hydrau...SIN=B00KS4R3PI
once you own one you'll wonder how you ever did primary wires without.

[jblood]

Thanks for all of the comments. Below is another update (but no conclusion yet )

The B+ battery recall was performed on this vehicle.
There is no evidence of water intrusion or visible corrosion thus far.

Replacement of the clicking relays on the printed circuit board did NOT solve the problem. The components are NOT bad and neither are the solder joints on them as they were redone. The clicking relay(s) are, evidently, an EFFECT rather than the root CAUSE.

OLD FACTS: When the JBE circuit is cold (less than 45F) the relays click and warning messages appear. When it is warm, they do NOT. I am able to repeat this even when a small section of the board near the clicking relay was cooled.

NEW FACTS: When I push down on the edge of JBE circuit board (with the blue and black connectors) while connected to the JB, the clicking stops. When I stop pressing down, the clicking resumes.

SO... I believe that there is a poor connection SOMEWHERE that is exacerbated by cold conditions, and conversely, improved by application of force. As a result, my current suspicions are as follows:

1) The 23 position connection between JBE and JB is compromised.
2) The JBE printed circuit board has an internal defect or cold solder joint somewhere.

If 1) is the case, I will likely need to remove the Fuse Box and JB because the female connector resides in this housing and is difficult to access. The male connector contacts on the JBE looks fine. I did a continuity check on each of the 23 pins to the board and they all check ok.[/INDENT]
If 2) is the case, I will likely need to replace the JBE. It will not be practical to try and troubleshoot the printed circuit without schematics and bench testing capability.

gbalthrop Do you have a pinout map for the 23 pin connection between the JBE and JB (Fuse Box)?

thoughts??? Stay tuned...

[JeffKim]

I'm back from my travels and catching up. I don't have anything to add other than validate again that I have the same symptoms with the wipers sometimes not working at cold temperatures as Jim mentions. Also, it seems to be getting worse, since now I have the problem at 40 degrees not in the 20's before.

With @icon2015's suggestion, I did read the recall bulletin and the one for gasoline models and I'm pretty skeptical this could be it. I'm not getting any flashing on and off of the instrument light cluster or any starting problems.

I'm inclined to spend $50 and replace the JBE with a used part and see if the problem goes away, however the issue is that it would have to be reprogrammed and that's over my head.

Anyways, go Jim! I'll keep monitoring the thread, if there's anything I can do to help please let me know.

[icon2015]

jblood If you think the issue is at pin 23 from the back-connector of the JBBF, then just remove fuse F78 (30A) and test the car.

If you can put your hands on a JBBF2(with the blue connector on the right side) install it in the car, even if its not coded to your VIN options it will be able to start the car. This way you can remove the JBBF from the equation.

Your fuse panel is different from others, as it has the dme relay integrated in it, if something happened to your fuse panel inside, it might affect that relay power distribution. This kind of fuse panel is rare , at least in Europe.

[ExcAutoInc]

Ever resolve the issue?

[JeffKim]

Not solved. I still have the problem but have been keeping the garage warm which minimizes it.

Come back Jim!

[jblood]

Sorry for the silence. No solution yet. This has been extremely frustrating. I took a break from it for a while to eat turkey and such but I'm back to it.

A new development has thrown a bit of a curve ball: Now - the AWD, DSC, ABS, and EMERG EBV! message remains even when warmed up. The clicking still stops (along with other misc. malfunctions) once warm but the <above> error message remains.

So, I'm now wondering if there are multiple issues happening. I ordered an INPA cable and will scan when it arrives. I am hearing some noise coming from the rear passenger wheel that sounds like a possible wheel bearing failing. I am wondering if that is a 'real' fault and not just cold induced circuit stuff.

I don't like throwing parts at a problem but depending on the scan results, I may go with a replacement JBE. It seems no matter what else is going on, the JBBFE causes faults when cold and not when warm. Circuit level troubleshooting did not yield any obvious problem and I have reached the limit of my ability go any further in detail.

I did see a service on ebay that claims to repair these modules but its in Korea and looks pretty risky. The best alternative I have seen so far is to buy a used JBBFE and have it recoded by mybimmerbrain for $150.

[JeffKim]

Bummer, do the messages remain even after removing the key and restarting? I can get rid of them this way after it's warm.

I don't have any other issues besides this one - wheel bearings are ok, etc.

[JeffKim]

On the other hand, this might help me rationalize getting a 4-series next spring when it warms up.

[jblood]

Good to hear from you Jeff.

So this much I am confident in:

* it's either the JBBFE or the Fuse Box.

Heating the JBBFE or pushing down hard on the front edge of JBBFE makes the problem go away.

This can only mean a bad connection somewhere. I can't see anything but these are the facts.

Next step will be either buying a replacement JBBFE or removing fuse box.

[mecheng77]

If it helps, my Junction box was replaced under warantee.

[JeffKim]

@mecheng77 can you provide more details? Did you have the same problem? Was it under warranty or part of a recall?

[mecheng77]

Originally Posted by JeffKim

@mecheng77 can you provide more details? Did you have the same problem? Was it under warranty or part of a recall?

This was done under warranty under the original owner (not me).

[JeffKim]

Thanks! This looks like a repair for a window regulator, but required replacing the junction box as well. I have no idea if this is relevant or not.

[jblood]

So I gave up trying to fix the printed circuit board. There is either a bad solder joint somewhere or an internal short in the board. But nothing visible and it just became impractical to troubleshoot further.

But... I bought a used JBFFE module on Amazon for $100. It arrived, I plugged it in and BINGO! No clicking. Everything functions except my passenger side seat heater. So on to the next step to see what that is about. I'm hoping that when I have the module coded, the seat module will be activated. Hopefully this is not a hardware issue with the new (used) module. I am planning to have a remote coding service register the new module (mybimmerbrain).

Oh well, at least I can now drive in the cold now. Thanks for all who offered support during this "avoid the dealer" saga.

Also, I have gone down another wormhole and bought a K/DCAN cable and INPA. Thant is a whole 'nother story but I have been able to read error codes.

[JeffKim]

That’s good news. I’m following in your footsteps. Do you mind sending a link to the part?