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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Ask a Professional Detailer...
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12-26-2012, 04:57 PM | #1719 |
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New X3 prep in January?
About to take delivery of my new ALpine White X3 and I know I'm supposed to seal/wax it right away but its January and I do not have access to heated work area so think that is going to be a problem. Would you recommend my best option is to have it professionally detailed?
If so, have never paid for professional detailing before. I know certain products are better for white cars, do I trust them to use the best product to use or should I be specific about what I want (not necessarily specifying a particular brand but stating that I want one thats good for white, high gloss, etc)? Don't know the protocol, and don't want to insult their expertise, but if I'm going to pay good money for a pro job I think I should be happy with results. Also I read best protocol is to clay, seal, wax. Is this part of normal detailer protocol, or do I need to specify if I want this? If this is not normal protocol then I guess I'll be paying more for this level of detail. Any advice appreciated. |
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12-29-2012, 04:48 PM | #1720 | |
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01-03-2013, 12:04 PM | #1721 | |
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For the paint a buffer will be a huge asset. I'd highly recommend the Porter Cable 7424XP Random Orbital Buffer and a Lake Country 5" Backing Plate for Porter Cable 7424 XP. There are no wrong sizes but the 5" backing plate and 5.5" pads is often what I recommend the most if you have to pick just one. I'd suggest the Menzerna Super Finish Polish SF 4000 (PO106FA Nano Polish) and two Lake Country White Polishing Pads. This will remove fine swirls, oxidation, etc. so the paint is more optically clear and you get that deeper reflection. Next apply a sealant with the Lake Country Blue Fine Finishing Pad to protect the paint for about 4 - 6 months. The Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant is a great choice that looks outstanding and is very durable. I think this two step routine would be a great boost to the appearance and be easy to work with. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help. Greg @ DI |
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01-03-2013, 12:12 PM | #1722 | |
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If you are seeing ultra fine scratches and swirls in the finish it can be polished to some extent, but please note this coating is not nearly as thick as the exterior clear coat so don't over polish it. I'd suggest a very fine polish like the Meguiar's PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish or the Menzerna Micro Polish SF 4500 (PO85RD). Apply a small amount on a microfiber towel or foam app and buff with light to medium pressure, then wipe away the excess product with a clean microfiber towel. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help. Greg @ DI |
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01-03-2013, 12:34 PM | #1723 | |
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Greg @ DI |
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01-12-2013, 09:47 PM | #1724 | |
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01-20-2013, 04:29 PM | #1725 |
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Chemical Guys CWG + FoamMaster ratio
Hi
Forgive me if this has been asked before. I searched but couldn't find an answer. I have Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss and a Gilmour FoamMaster. Could you tell me the ratio of CWG to use for 1. maintenance washes 2. stripping LSP when used with the FoamMaster? Also at what setting should the gun be at when using the ratio's recommended? Thanks in advance |
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01-23-2013, 11:20 AM | #1726 | |
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.5 oz per gallon will not strip protection 2 oz per gallon of water will strip protection If you put it on Setting E you'll get the richest concentration of whatever you put in the reservoir. To not strip the protection I believe you would use about .5 ounces of CWC and 11.5 ounces of water. With so little shampoo being used I fear you may not get enough lubricity for safe washing, but you're welcome to try. I personally don't recommend this shampoo for maintenance washes with the foam gun for this reason. For stripping shampoos the minimum shampoo you would use on Setting E I believe is 2 ounces of shampoo and 10 ounces of water. I personally use a bit more to shampoo to be certain it's strong enough to strip old protection. I hope I got my ratios right and I hope this was helpful! Greg @ DI |
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02-05-2013, 05:17 AM | #1728 |
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I have a 2007 bmw 530i with the style 123 wheels and they are a PAIN in the ass to keep clean. I recently switched my brake pads to HAWKS and it has significantly reduced the amount of brake dust. I want to clean the wheels really well and since they are off the car, I figured this would be the best time. There is a LOT of brake dust and road grime that has set into the wheels. I am going to order the following:
1) Sonax wheel cleaner 2) Claybar the wheels 3) Opticoat Sealant or PB Wheel Sealant My question is, which sealant is better for long term durability for a daily driver. Also, should I polish the wheels before applying the sealant? Thank You!! |
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02-06-2013, 01:14 PM | #1729 |
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new car
Ok.....so I am completely lost reading the post. My knowledge of this area does not exceed that of Turtle wax, and I may be giving myself too much credit. I have a new vehicle(E90 mystic blue), and purchased a "natural" wax product from BMW. What would be your recommendations be going forward on caring for the car to someone who's knowledge is little. I turned down the "teflon" product offered by the dealership. I do not drive the vehicle in inclimate weather. How do you feel about the "california dusters".
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02-11-2013, 02:44 PM | #1730 | |
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The best preventative measure is to make sure you're hands are clean entering the vehicle, so avoid lotions, make up, etc. Good luck! Greg @ DI |
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02-11-2013, 02:53 PM | #1731 | |
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For protection the Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 Permanent Paint Coating will definitely be more durable. This is an awesome way to preserve the wheels. I would also recommend you check out the 22ple VM1 Rim and Metal Coating, which is similar to Opti-Coat but it seems to release contaminants better. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help. Greg @ DI |
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02-11-2013, 03:16 PM | #1732 | |
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Turning the the "teflon" package down was probably a very good decision. They usually contain a lot of fine print so I believe you made the right choice. In general I'm not a huge fan of the dusters which is why we don't carry them but I understand it can be helpful to those who are not absolute perfectionists about the paint. Some very brief tips for you to get you started on top of the detailing guide and blog posts linked above. - never visit a car wash with bristles - washing and drying is where most swirls (curved micro-scratches in the clear coat) come from so pay really good attention to your wash process and products - Apply a coat of protection on a semi-regular schedule. Most natural waxes protect for about 3 - 6 weeks so apply them more frequently. A synthetic wax (aka sealant) can give you 4 - 6 months of protection so that is usually a better option for daily drivers. If you visit our store (www.DetailedImage.com) you can have use one code per purchase, here are three of our best deals. 10% off code e90post $4.99 shipping code DI499 (min spend $49) Free shipping code DIFREE (min spend $149) Let me know if you have any specific questions or if you need any recommendations. Greg @ DI |
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02-12-2013, 01:36 PM | #1733 |
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wax
Thank you for getting back.....and thanks for the patience. I know you get alot of questions. I reviewed your website. If I purchase a carnuba wax, can I apply and remove by hand? I have always waxed/dewaxed my vehicles along the cars "lines". Is this proper? Does the dealership use sealants, etc when they prep the car, and if so, what effect will this have on my care, and when will this wear off. My car is a 2011 brought into service in May 2012.
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02-13-2013, 10:10 AM | #1734 | |
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Generally speaking dealerships, even high end ones, often use very generic detailing supplies that will not protect very long (maybe 1 - 2 months). Each place varies so I'm not sure what they use for protection. Generally they are focused on speed, cost of supplies and making the car look good for a few days. Dealerships sometimes use products with heavy fillers to help hide fine imperfections when a customer picks up their car. Anything they applied would be long gone by now. A good wax, which most dealerships do not use, will last about 1 - 2 months and a good sealant will last 4 - 6 months in my experiences. If you want to be extra safe making sure no protection is left on the surface wash with the Chemical Guys Citrus Wash. This citrus based shampoo removes old sealant and wax. You can apply sealants and waxes with the "lines" of the car or in a circular motion generally speaking. Assuming you have properly cleaned the surface and you're using paint safe supplies (applicator and towels) it shouldn't have much impact. You can apply sealants and waxes and get very similar results to what a buffer would do. Polishes are the step where you really want the added power of a buffer. If you need any recommendations please don't hesitate to ask! Don't forget we have 20% off through 2/15 with the code VDAY13. Take care! Greg @ DI |
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02-17-2013, 02:24 PM | #1735 |
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sealant
I purchased some of your products. Thanks for mentioning the sale. I love the quick detailer and the microfiber cloth. My wife mentioned the car looks better than when we picked it up from the dealer last month.(that may not be a compliment after reading your post). I have a couple questions. If I use a sealer, do you still wax the car? Is it too soon to apply a sealant if I just purchased the car. If I use a sealant on the tires does that cause problem,s latter on(peeling, etc). I have some recalcitrant tar on the hood that didnt come off with the spray degreaser. Any suggestions.
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02-19-2013, 04:14 PM | #1736 |
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I bought a bunch of stuff from detailed image to do a Spring detail, and the only thing I'm missing is sealant and polish. I have a jet black 2009 e92, and they are some water spots and swirls in the paint. I don't have a random orbital and I would prefer to do all polishing by hand. What polish do you recommend I buy to get most of the water spots and swirls out with? Also what is a good sealant? The wax I bought is Poorboys Natty Blue if that makes a difference for sealant.
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02-21-2013, 01:59 PM | #1737 |
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Hello I recently purchased a 2011 Jet Black 328I and already had it detailed at a shop near my job (they had my car all day over 8hours- and it was the only vehicle they worked on) needless to say it looked 10 times better than when the dealer gave me my keys LOL
Anyways I just want to be able to maintain it like washing it once a week I would like to see what you would suggest as in products for washing and a quick detailer type product and or anything that would be beneficial. We all know how hard it is to maintain a BLACK car :P As well as a good product for my Black Matte Rims. Thx in advance
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03-01-2013, 10:23 AM | #1738 | |
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