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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > Replacig DISA valve #2 inner Valve, any shortcuts?



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      05-10-2019, 09:23 PM   #23
johnmyster
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That can also be done without pulling the intake, if you happen to have a 1/4" swivel and an extension.
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      05-11-2019, 02:36 AM   #24
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So its Friday night, DISAs have been changed. Overall its pretty easy job, just has a lot of steps to it.

To give you the short and sweet the inside DISA valve can only be removed when you remove the outside DISA + the throttle body. Doing so exposes the screws to the interior DISA. Also I didn't remove the manifold entirely out of the car. I took some parts off and shifted it to the side so I could reach the DISA valve inside. It DID make getting the screws difficult since I was doing it blindly but I'd rather do it blind than try to disassemble the hose going to the CCV. Video of my findings below, hope it can be helpful to others looking to do this. Enjoy.

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Last edited by AlexKoast; 05-11-2019 at 09:07 AM..
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      05-11-2019, 12:24 PM   #25
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Just rip th manifold off. it's easy enough. Timed myself and did a 3im swap in 52 min
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      05-14-2019, 06:00 PM   #26
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so since this is the hot disa topic.

my 06 manifold has the self diagnosis error on the #2 DISA.
Are there aftermarket ones that don't suck, or only go OE on these? Buggers are expensive.
Has anyone tried the vanos bmw repair kits? They're nearly as exspensive as a new valve, so I'm not sure how I feel about that.

I will just pull the manifold, after you do it a few times it's not a big deal.
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      05-14-2019, 06:25 PM   #27
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Look for the Vaico ones on eBay. I've seen them pop up from time to time for around $100.
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      05-15-2019, 05:36 PM   #28
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I went with Vaico for both inside and outside DISAs. I'm driving from Vancouver BC to LA for Bimmerfest next week so if it dies along the way I'll update this thread.
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      05-16-2019, 10:35 PM   #29
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Good info in this thread. I'll just chime in to say that I replaced both DISA valves yesterday and I did not completely remove the manifold. I couldn't figure out how to get the fuel line off without potentially damaging it, so I just removed the throttle body and pulled the manifold up a few inches to wiggle the inner DISA valve out. I'm fairly certain I got everything hooked back up correctly - test drive will be tomorrow.
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      05-17-2019, 09:33 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagtem View Post
I couldn't figure out how to get the fuel line off without potentially damaging it,
There is a torx screw torwards the back / firewall end that holds the fuel line to the manifold itself. Remove that and you should be free. The fuel doesn't need to be disconnected from the rail in order to get the intake out. Looks like you got the job done, but that's for future reference. I had hangups on the fuel line taking the manifold out of my old X3, but didn't have the same pain doing the job on my 328. There's more room to work in the E90, surprisingly.
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      05-18-2019, 11:37 AM   #31
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Just want to say thanks to everyone for contributing to this topic and others regarding 3IM /DISA swap and PCV replacement. It's definitely not for the faint of heart or first time DIYers like myself. It just takes some simple tools, lots of patience and memory. I'm not sure how people managed to get the inside DISA out without taking the IM off, but congrats to them!

I decided to tackle it this long weekend and am already on the re-assembly phase. Only broke the one rear valve cover /pcv hose (on purpose). The rear IM mounted hose heater electricals and oil pan return hose were a nightmare but I got them all disconnected eventually.

I found disconnecting the fuel line from the rail helped a bit with clearance, also disconnecting the strut mount. I'm about 5'11" and was able to crawl inside the engine bay to release some of those hoses and plugs at the back, stepping on the frame where the airbox sits and on the valve cover. Hopefully not causing more damage lol.

I still can't figure out how to remove the oil pan hose from the oil pan end, it connects way too far down, below the steering rods. I'm not sure if my adaptive steering has anything to do with clearance issues but I can't seem to even fit one of those little plastic fuel line tools between the coupling. Fingers crossed it isn't cracked, I'll be re-using it I guess.

Thanks again to all.
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      05-20-2019, 06:27 PM   #32
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so that plastic PCV hose is like heatshrinked onto the plastic quick connect fittings.

a piece of 3/4 hydraulic hose is oil resistant and will clamp onto the remains of those fittings perfectly.

I now have a rubber PCV hose, as mother nature intended engines to have.
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      05-20-2019, 06:32 PM   #33
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that's what I did. I also re-wrapped the hose with the heater coil from the old broken hose so it would still work, and re-used the original insulation.
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      05-21-2019, 02:16 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsjames View Post
so since this is the hot disa topic.

my 06 manifold has the self diagnosis error on the #2 DISA.
Are there aftermarket ones that don't suck, or only go OE on these? Buggers are expensive.
Has anyone tried the vanos bmw repair kits? They're nearly as exspensive as a new valve, so I'm not sure how I feel about that.

I will just pull the manifold, after you do it a few times it's not a big deal.
Was that the eBay one? What code did you pull? Maybe I'm just lucky [knocks on wood]?

Are you actually talking about the rebuild on the VANOS? I would just clean that or call it a day. Not worth it and if you're hesitant, get an FCP Euro one so it's always in warranty. VANOS aren't as expensive as OE DISAs. And definitely go OE/OEM on VANOS as I can tell you a story about aftermarket. I couldn't tell the difference by looking at it, but there's a world of codes difference, in my experience.
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      05-21-2019, 06:34 PM   #35
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Hey guys just seen this DISA thread and instead of creating my own I am just gonna ask a quick question here if you don't mind. I have been seeing topics on failed DISA pieces in the intake. My 2006 330i has 70k on it but I have no issues with the DISA valves. I have it at my local BMW indy shop as I type for a new eccentric shaft sensor and VCG job and spark plugs. Question is do you think it might be a good idea as precautionary maintenance to have the 2 DISA changed? I am thinking it won't be any easier doing it with the valve cover off so price of the job shouldn't change. Also BMW brand or aftermarket? Buggers are expensive. But so was the dam Eccentric shaft sensor job. lol
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      05-21-2019, 07:33 PM   #36
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IMO, no. They're expensive and if you're paying labor, doubly so.

My 06 330i has 145k on the original DISA valves, they still work fine.
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      05-21-2019, 09:27 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hassmaschine View Post
IMO, no. They're expensive and if you're paying labor, doubly so.

My 06 330i has 145k on the original DISA valves, they still work fine.
Agreed, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. The smaller one has some potential concerns if the flap actually broke free, but I haven't heard one person that actually had it sucked up and grenade the engine (maybe I'm an ostrich?). I've heard a lot of "I got a rattle in my intake, wtf?"

Rebuilds are overrated, as sure, they protect the shaft from breaking, but reality is, the servo is the one that usually goes. I've also seen a few DISA's split along that separation (after rebuilds) due to the servo movement and/or improper sealing/mating. That and BMW (and aftermarket) started using metal shafts anyway as a product revision.
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      05-23-2019, 02:54 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluewater328 View Post
Was that the eBay one? What code did you pull? Maybe I'm just lucky [knocks on wood]?

Are you actually talking about the rebuild on the VANOS? I would just clean that or call it a day. Not worth it and if you're hesitant, get an FCP Euro one so it's always in warranty. VANOS aren't as expensive as OE DISAs. And definitely go OE/OEM on VANOS as I can tell you a story about aftermarket. I couldn't tell the difference by looking at it, but there's a world of codes difference, in my experience.
it was pulled from a scrapyard bound 06 330.
I have no idea the miles on it. It's an early production manifold with the single PCV input, so they're the first of the first revisions I assume.

I can't remember the code, but it's a DISA self diagnosis error, which google says is most likely a motor that's sluggish. It all worked fine with no errors for a few months after I did the flash and install, so I don't think it's related to the modification. This popped up last month and I caught it while diagnosing water pump. I haven't actualy noticed and drive ability issues.
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      05-23-2019, 03:17 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsjames View Post
it was pulled from a scrapyard bound 06 330.
I have no idea the miles on it. It's an early production manifold with the single PCV input, so they're the first of the first revisions I assume.

I can't remember the code, but it's a DISA self diagnosis error, which google says is most likely a motor that's sluggish. It all worked fine with no errors for a few months after I did the flash and install, so I don't think it's related to the modification. This popped up last month and I caught it while diagnosing water pump. I haven't actualy noticed and drive ability issues.
I don't think you would notice any, just less power. Same thing that happened to the original 330i owners. My original DISAs from the '06 3IM I pulled were DOA when I tested them. eBay ones I had one miss with the large DISA that was replaced promptly, and the small one, the issue I had with the first eBay one was just the build (leads to the connection cable were larger than stock -- still fit, but plug wasn't in all the way). It actually worked perfect, but I wanted to be as clean as possible. Current one has lasted since then with no concerns. As a note, the new large DISAs already have the metal post in them. The small DISAs have not revised that, so far as I've seen.

Were the codes possibly 2AA8 and 2AAB?
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      05-23-2019, 03:23 PM   #40
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maybe.

I didn't pay too close attention, as the water pump was the major issue.
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      05-31-2019, 04:56 PM   #41
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***update***

I did 5,000 km of driving in the last week to Bimmerfest and back and the VAICO DISAs have crapped the bed on me. I'm getting code 2AAC and i can hear the DISA attempting to close when I'm stopped and in Neutral. I've already contacted ECS to swap these for the Genuine OEM BMW DISAs as VAICO has failed me.

Do not buy VAICO.


sidenote, photo from LA for good measure

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      05-31-2019, 06:55 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexKoast View Post
***update***

I did 5,000 km of driving in the last week to Bimmerfest and back and the VAICO DISAs have crapped the bed on me. I'm getting code 2AAC and i can hear the DISA attempting to close when I'm stopped and in Neutral. I've already contacted ECS to swap these for the Genuine OEM BMW DISAs as VAICO has failed me.

Do not buy VAICO.


sidenote, photo from LA for good measure

Man, the closing is hard to hear even with my radio off. Opening is fairly obvious though, when you're listening.

Well, you're making me all nervous.
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      06-02-2019, 06:39 PM   #43
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My 330i has 70K on it now and I have never had an issue with either DISA's. My local indy shop told me it would trip a code when I asked him about changing them as preventative maintenance. Is this true? It seems to idle and run good but not only has some people it's a good idea to swap them out as precautionary but I am wondering if performance would improve any. I may just do the job myself. Looking at genuine BMW unless anyone can vouch for the Vaico brand. Figured I would ask you guys for some advice since these valves are quite expensive.
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      06-03-2019, 02:13 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWE90fan View Post
My 330i has 70K on it now and I have never had an issue with either DISA's. My local indy shop told me it would trip a code when I asked him about changing them as preventative maintenance. Is this true? It seems to idle and run good but not only has some people it's a good idea to swap them out as precautionary but I am wondering if performance would improve any. I may just do the job myself. Looking at genuine BMW unless anyone can vouch for the Vaico brand. Figured I would ask you guys for some advice since these valves are quite expensive.
Performance wont improve - performance can only be lost if they are malfunctioning. They either work or don't. They throw shadow codes MOST times, but they won't throw a hard code that shows up on your dash. Sometimes, there won't be a code, but if you test them, they don't close or open fully or quickly. Most that usually happens is a loss of power, that's really about it.
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