[neilvan]

I store 4 cars a year (3 convertibles in the winter and I switch out my 335/530 for summer and winter seasons); As said before a battery tender or remove the battery completely(my preference), fuel stabilizer and either pump up the tires/foam blocks under them/storage wheels(my preference as it gets cold here).

Depending where it is and how much you care a cover can be bought cheap and make sure the e-brake is down. I also use Shell 91(or any non-ethanol gas) just incase.

My winter stored cars are pretty modded or considered "toy" cars, so what I do may be over the top for a standard daily.

[Mosaud1998]

Originally Posted by neilvan

I store 4 cars a year (3 convertibles in the winter and I switch out my 335/530 for summer and winter seasons); As said before a battery tender or remove the battery completely(my preference), fuel stabilizer and either pump up the tires/foam blocks under them/storage wheels(my preference as it gets cold here).

Depending where it is and how much you care a cover can be bought cheap and make sure the e-brake is down. I also use Shell 91(or any non-ethanol gas) just incase.

My winter stored cars are pretty modded or considered "toy" cars, so what I do may be over the top for a standard daily.

How much fuel stabilizer do you put and what brand is recommended?

I mean, I could buy a car cover and not drive the car until summer break rolls around.

You wouldn't recommend starting the car either right? If I am going to start it, might as well drive it for 15-20 min/ 15-20 miles.

[Mosaud1998]

https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214...s%2C293&sr=8-7

would this stabilizer work?

https://www.amazon.com/Leader-Access...dDbGljaz10cnVl

This for a car cover. Not bad

[neilvan]

Honestly, any fuel stabilizer works; If this was a 1.4 million Ferrari F40 then ya you might get the best one out there. On the bottle it will tell you how much to use for how big of a tank.

If you are doing all this to store it then no I would not start or drive it until you are ready to continuously. At that point you are introducing a hot/cold cycle and moisture into a car that you just prepped to sit.

My cars go into winter hibernation around the start of november and come out to play around may(weather permitting of course)

[Mosaud1998]

Originally Posted by neilvan

Honestly, any fuel stabilizer works; If this was a 1.4 million Ferrari F40 then ya you might get the best one out there. On the bottle it will tell you how much to use for how big of a tank.

If you are doing all this to store it then no I would not start or drive it until you are ready to continuously. At that point you are introducing a hot/cold cycle and moisture into a car that you just prepped to sit.

My cars go into winter hibernation around the start of november and come out to play around may(weather permitting of course)

If you are doing all this to store it then no I would not start or drive it until you are ready to continuously

Probably two years after I graduate or during summer vacation

[neilvan]

If storing for 2 years then ya I'd go a little more on the prep. If you could give the car a good run (2 weeks of driving) in good weather every year that might be beneficial so you don't get rust build up on rotors and just keep things moving and free.

That being said if you seriously don't plan on driving it much or at all for 2 years and the car isn't something special/highly modded, have you thought about selling and buying something when the time comes?

[Mosaud1998]

Originally Posted by neilvan

If storing for 2 years then ya I'd go a little more on the prep. If you could give the car a good run (2 weeks of driving) in good weather every year that might be beneficial so you don't get rust build up on rotors and just keep things moving and free.

That being said if you seriously don't plan on driving it much or at all for 2 years and the car isn't something special/highly modded, have you thought about selling and buying something when the time comes?

I can always have my mom drive it when she goes shopping. Or whenever I come home (every week or so), I can drive it to get groceries or things of that sort.

Nah, I haven't thought about selling it yet. Idk if I want to. But, I might consider it

[Wolf 335]

Originally Posted by Mosaud1998

https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214...s%2C293&sr=8-7

would this stabilizer work?

https://www.amazon.com/Leader-Access...dDbGljaz10cnVl

This for a car cover. Not bad

Sta-Bil is the one you want.

[Soden82]

I store mine for about 4 months a year in the cold, and I just throw my car on a tender, over inflate the tires a few psi, and throw in stabil fuel stabilizer. Usually it's 1oz of stabilizer per 2-2.5 gallons of fuel.

Then in the spring I do a fresh oil change. This year I might start the car up and drive it once a month to get the fluids warm but haven't decided yet.

I also throw a pack of damp-rid or other desiccant inside the cabin to absorb any moisture. Being that you'll be home weekly, you can skip out on the damp-rid.

[nsjames]

your original plan was fine.

if you are going to drive it on the weekends just make sure the oil gets to temp. that's it.
otherwise you will get condensation in the crankcase and it will end up as moisture in the oil.

You don't need stabil or anything unless you're really planning on not driving it for months.
If you drive it every week or two it won't be a problem.
Always park it with a full tank of fuel.

[eljay]

The previius advice will suffice for you, but if we are talking longer term and winter storage, then I'll pull out my winter storage procedure checklist that I picked up somewhere and edited slightly. I follow this for my summer car that gets stored every year for 6 months:

Winter Storage Procedure

* Put in fresh oil/filter
* Fill the gas with fresh fuel from a top quality station using high octane (no alcohol if you can help it). This reduces the amount of fuel tank wall space that would enable condensation to accumulate during the changing environment temperatures. Add a gas preservative such as Stabil and run the engine for a few minutes, so it can be distributed throughout the fuel system.
* Put plenty of air in the tires (over inflate slightly). 5 to 15 pounds should be enough.
* Make sure the car is thoroughly washed, including the underbody.
* Wash and wax your car right before storing it.
* Store the car only when it is dry.
* Make sure the car has had a good run on the highway before storing it. By getting your car up to operating temperature it helps to burn off contaminants in the oil and it also gets rid of moisture in the crankcase and the exhaust system.
* To stop moisture from getting under the car put a couple layers of plastic sheeting under the entire car and several feet either side/ends. This plastic is cheap and a good vapor barrier.
* Close all the windows and put the system on max a/c to close the outside vent. If the garage is heated, then the window can be left open a small crack to allow air circulation.
* Put a large bag of desiccant gel inside the car. This absorbs excess moisture in the air. Put them in a pie tin on the floor of the car. You can also place an open box of Baking Soda on the floor of the car to absorb moisture. The Passenger Side floor works fine.
* Treat all rubber with a good rubber cleaner/conditioner. Clean your interior and vacuum it out, use leather cleaner/conditioner and vinyl cleaner/conditioner as required. Do NOT use water on the carpets/seats right before storage, mold and mildew will follow. Do NOT treat inside surfaces with Armor-All (or similar) products before storing your car. They contain a lot of water and chemicals that can encourage mildew and mold. You may get a musty spell concentrated over the winter.
* Connect a quality trickle charger to the car (like CTek etc.). Connect it to the terminals in the engine bay, not onto the battery itself (this ensures the battery control module can regulate voltage to the various electronic components).
* If storing the car on the wheels, place cardboard or old carpet pieces under the tire to separate from the cold concrete. If you put the car on jack stands, use them under the suspension so all the bushings and springs are the way they are supposed to be, and not drooping down. Drooping from the weight of the wheels etc is hard on the suspension, and exposes parts to rust that normally are hidden.
* If the car is manual, leave it in gear. Use wheel blocks to prevent it from rolling.
* If the car is stored on its wheels, it may be helpful to roll the car slightly once a month.
* Never set the parking brake. The brake shoes or pads could stick to the drums or rotors or the cables could rust or freeze up during storage. Use wheel blocks.
* Put steel wool or rolled up scotch-brite pads in the tailpipes and the air intake inlets.
* IMPORTANT!! It is far better to let your car sit for four or five months without starting it, than to start it once a week, or once a month and let it sit for 10 minutes. NEVER start your car unless you plan on driving it on the highway for at least 1/2 hour and get it to full operating temp. Doing otherwise will just load the engine and exhaust with moisture to start rust etc.
* Place a sticky note on the steering wheel or dash with the words: "Remove steel wool from exhaust and intake before starting!" 
* Cover it using quality fitted cover
* OPTIONAL: whisper to it, or play sounds of M3 GTR going around Nurburgring from YouTube until the car is peacefully asleep and comfortable. 

[Mosaud1998]

Originally Posted by eljay

The previius advice will suffice for you, but if we are talking longer term and winter storage, then I'll pull out my winter storage procedure checklist that I picked up somewhere and edited slightly. I follow this for my summer car that gets stored every year for 6 months:

Winter Storage Procedure

* Put in fresh oil/filter
* Fill the gas with fresh fuel from a top quality station using high octane (no alcohol if you can help it). This reduces the amount of fuel tank wall space that would enable condensation to accumulate during the changing environment temperatures. Add a gas preservative such as Stabil and run the engine for a few minutes, so it can be distributed throughout the fuel system.
* Put plenty of air in the tires (over inflate slightly). 5 to 15 pounds should be enough.
* Make sure the car is thoroughly washed, including the underbody.
* Wash and wax your car right before storing it.
* Store the car only when it is dry.
* Make sure the car has had a good run on the highway before storing it. By getting your car up to operating temperature it helps to burn off contaminants in the oil and it also gets rid of moisture in the crankcase and the exhaust system.
* To stop moisture from getting under the car put a couple layers of plastic sheeting under the entire car and several feet either side/ends. This plastic is cheap and a good vapor barrier.
* Close all the windows and put the system on max a/c to close the outside vent. If the garage is heated, then the window can be left open a small crack to allow air circulation.
* Put a large bag of desiccant gel inside the car. This absorbs excess moisture in the air. Put them in a pie tin on the floor of the car. You can also place an open box of Baking Soda on the floor of the car to absorb moisture. The Passenger Side floor works fine.
* Treat all rubber with a good rubber cleaner/conditioner. Clean your interior and vacuum it out, use leather cleaner/conditioner and vinyl cleaner/conditioner as required. Do NOT use water on the carpets/seats right before storage, mold and mildew will follow. Do NOT treat inside surfaces with Armor-All (or similar) products before storing your car. They contain a lot of water and chemicals that can encourage mildew and mold. You may get a musty spell concentrated over the winter.
* Connect a quality trickle charger to the car (like CTek etc.). Connect it to the terminals in the engine bay, not onto the battery itself (this ensures the battery control module can regulate voltage to the various electronic components).
* If storing the car on the wheels, place cardboard or old carpet pieces under the tire to separate from the cold concrete. If you put the car on jack stands, use them under the suspension so all the bushings and springs are the way they are supposed to be, and not drooping down. Drooping from the weight of the wheels etc is hard on the suspension, and exposes parts to rust that normally are hidden.
* If the car is manual, leave it in gear. Use wheel blocks to prevent it from rolling.
* If the car is stored on its wheels, it may be helpful to roll the car slightly once a month.
* Never set the parking brake. The brake shoes or pads could stick to the drums or rotors or the cables could rust or freeze up during storage. Use wheel blocks.
* Put steel wool or rolled up scotch-brite pads in the tailpipes and the air intake inlets.
* IMPORTANT!! It is far better to let your car sit for four or five months without starting it, than to start it once a week, or once a month and let it sit for 10 minutes. NEVER start your car unless you plan on driving it on the highway for at least 1/2 hour and get it to full operating temp. Doing otherwise will just load the engine and exhaust with moisture to start rust etc.
* Place a sticky note on the steering wheel or dash with the words: "Remove steel wool from exhaust and intake before starting!"
* Cover it using quality fitted cover
* OPTIONAL: whisper to it, or play sounds of M3 GTR going around Nurburgring from YouTube until the car is peacefully asleep and comfortable.

I'm gonna save this for the future since I am planning on buying another car after college(2-3 years after) and keeping this one for the winter. So, this will come in handy.

[Mosaud1998]

Originally Posted by eljay

The previius advice will suffice for you, but if we are talking longer term and winter storage, then I'll pull out my winter storage procedure checklist that I picked up somewhere and edited slightly. I follow this for my summer car that gets stored every year for 6 months:

Winter Storage Procedure

* Put in fresh oil/filter
* Fill the gas with fresh fuel from a top quality station using high octane (no alcohol if you can help it). This reduces the amount of fuel tank wall space that would enable condensation to accumulate during the changing environment temperatures. Add a gas preservative such as Stabil and run the engine for a few minutes, so it can be distributed throughout the fuel system.
* Put plenty of air in the tires (over inflate slightly). 5 to 15 pounds should be enough.
* Make sure the car is thoroughly washed, including the underbody.
* Wash and wax your car right before storing it.
* Store the car only when it is dry.
* Make sure the car has had a good run on the highway before storing it. By getting your car up to operating temperature it helps to burn off contaminants in the oil and it also gets rid of moisture in the crankcase and the exhaust system.
* To stop moisture from getting under the car put a couple layers of plastic sheeting under the entire car and several feet either side/ends. This plastic is cheap and a good vapor barrier.
* Close all the windows and put the system on max a/c to close the outside vent. If the garage is heated, then the window can be left open a small crack to allow air circulation.
* Put a large bag of desiccant gel inside the car. This absorbs excess moisture in the air. Put them in a pie tin on the floor of the car. You can also place an open box of Baking Soda on the floor of the car to absorb moisture. The Passenger Side floor works fine.
* Treat all rubber with a good rubber cleaner/conditioner. Clean your interior and vacuum it out, use leather cleaner/conditioner and vinyl cleaner/conditioner as required. Do NOT use water on the carpets/seats right before storage, mold and mildew will follow. Do NOT treat inside surfaces with Armor-All (or similar) products before storing your car. They contain a lot of water and chemicals that can encourage mildew and mold. You may get a musty spell concentrated over the winter.
* Connect a quality trickle charger to the car (like CTek etc.). Connect it to the terminals in the engine bay, not onto the battery itself (this ensures the battery control module can regulate voltage to the various electronic components).
* If storing the car on the wheels, place cardboard or old carpet pieces under the tire to separate from the cold concrete. If you put the car on jack stands, use them under the suspension so all the bushings and springs are the way they are supposed to be, and not drooping down. Drooping from the weight of the wheels etc is hard on the suspension, and exposes parts to rust that normally are hidden.
* If the car is manual, leave it in gear. Use wheel blocks to prevent it from rolling.
* If the car is stored on its wheels, it may be helpful to roll the car slightly once a month.
* Never set the parking brake. The brake shoes or pads could stick to the drums or rotors or the cables could rust or freeze up during storage. Use wheel blocks.
* Put steel wool or rolled up scotch-brite pads in the tailpipes and the air intake inlets.
* IMPORTANT!! It is far better to let your car sit for four or five months without starting it, than to start it once a week, or once a month and let it sit for 10 minutes. NEVER start your car unless you plan on driving it on the highway for at least 1/2 hour and get it to full operating temp. Doing otherwise will just load the engine and exhaust with moisture to start rust etc.
* Place a sticky note on the steering wheel or dash with the words: "Remove steel wool from exhaust and intake before starting!"
* Cover it using quality fitted cover
* OPTIONAL: whisper to it, or play sounds of M3 GTR going around Nurburgring from YouTube until the car is peacefully asleep and comfortable.

https://www.amazon.com/Leader-Access...dDbGljaz10cnVl

Would this cover be fine?

[John 070]

so does everyone feel Sta-bil cannot hurt? I myself? Never thought about the ethanol factor....that it likes to absorb water. The last thing anyone wants to to is to use unnecessary additives and then cause an issue...this is a BMW, not a lawnmower, right ? lol

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

[TunafishE93]

I wouldnt worry about additive on a BMW, the tanks tight or it will let you know if it is not. Only thing i would change from the above is store with gas at 1/4 to 1/2 tank so you can add some fresh fuel once ready to run. If you have a full tank of crap you are kinda stuck with it.

[Buug959]

Originally Posted by TunafishE93

I wouldnt worry about additive on a BMW, the tanks tight or it will let you know if it is not. Only thing i would change from the above is store with gas at 1/4 to 1/2 tank so you can add some fresh fuel once ready to run. If you have a full tank of crap you are kinda stuck with it.

That's the whole idea behind using Sta-bil. It keeps the fuel fresh so you don't need to leave the tank less than full. A full tank leaves no room for condensation to develop and that eliminates any potential contamination of the fuel. This is even more important in areas where ethanol mixtures are unavoidable.

[Vivek.]

Originally Posted by LemansE90335xi

That's the whole idea behind using Sta-bil. It keeps the fuel fresh so you don't need to leave the tank less than full. A full tank leaves no room for condensation to develop and that eliminates any potential contamination of the fuel. This is even more important in areas where ethanol mixtures are unavoidable.

Plus fuel pumps don't like sitting dry

[gds52]

It's just one week at a time, you don't need to do anything. I repeat, you do not need to do anything
Just come home and drive.
If the battery is healthy, you can even leave it for 2-3 weeks easily.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by John 070

so does everyone feel Sta-bil cannot hurt? I myself? Never thought about the ethanol factor....that it likes to absorb water. The last thing anyone wants to to is to use unnecessary additives and then cause an issue...this is a BMW, not a lawnmower, right ? lol

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

stabil is a product designed for a time when gas tanks were vented to atmosphere.

It's basically an oil that covers the top of the fuel and keeps the air from touching it.

just fill the tank on a modern car and be done. Do not leave it at a 1/4 tank, as that will leave a ton of air in the tank, and when the temperature changes it will vent and breathe as the air inside the tank expands and contracts, that will bring moisture into the tank.

if you're really concerned about the ethanol, use the Star Tron fuel treatment.
It's great for small engines.

[jarsdad1]

Originally Posted by gds52

It's just one week at a time, you don't need to do anything. I repeat, you do not need to do anything
Just come home and drive.
If the battery is healthy, you can even leave it for 2-3 weeks easily.

At least someone READ the thread.
If your BMW can't be left for a week (in a garage no less) it's time for another car. I used to leave mine at RDU 10 days each month.

[gds52]

Originally Posted by jarsdad1

At least someone READ the thread.
If your BMW can't be left for a week (in a garage no less) it's time for another car. I used to leave mine at RDU 10 days each month.

I read it again to confirm if I understood it correctly. Lol

I will share one crazy story.
In May 2013 I got a new AGM battery for my 328i convertible. In October same year I put it in covered garage storage in NJ because I had to go out of country for a while. No trickle charger.
I did usual tire pressure and stabil in gas.

I did, however, idled the car for about 30 minute to fully charge the battery (or I thought I did).
When I came back in March 2014, almost 5 months, I got a rental n jump cables because I knew that battery wd be dead.

To my shock...it got unlocked with the fob and then started on first crank with some hesitation. I was completely shocked. It was like a magic.

[John 070]

Originally Posted by nsjames

stabil is a product designed for a time when gas tanks were vented to atmosphere.

It's basically an oil that covers the top of the fuel and keeps the air from touching it.

just fill the tank on a modern car and be done. Do not leave it at a 1/4 tank, as that will leave a ton of air in the tank, and when the temperature changes it will vent and breathe as the air inside the tank expands and contracts, that will bring moisture into the tank.

if you're really concerned about the ethanol, use the Star Tron fuel treatment.
It's great for small engines.

Interesting....I just like to avoid unnecessary products, and especially if they can do harm (like say a head gasket sealer or fix a flat etc). I never gave it any thought, until talking on Friday to someone who buys ethanol free gas in Rochester. we don't have that here....