[abhishriv]

Originally Posted by Sered

I ordered from Harold @ HP Autowerks, it took about a week.

yours is bolted though right? mine is welded and have to do a core exchange

[sammy_0559]

AWSOME i would love for you to make a detailed DIY.... maybe

you might find this helpful also

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=663699


post #15 shows tourq and back lash measurements

[Sered]

I've got that thread bookmarked already Thanks

Currently at a standstill since I can't get this c-ring off. :/

[Sered]

Success! Diff is out! I picked up a 90deg needle-nose plier and it worked WAY better than the 45deg. I was able to wedge a very small pry bar behind the clip and pop it out of the recess.

Unfortunately, I don't have a vice nor a workbench; I sold all that when I moved out to Florida :/ I'll be taking the diff itself by a transmission shop to have them remove the gear and bearing races and place them on the new diff. It shouldn't cost much at all nor take much time.

[uniter]

Originally Posted by Sered

Yeah, I've got a dial indicator and magnetic mount on order for checking backlash. I don't have a press, but the bearings themselves (if I'm talking about the part correctly) are held in by c-clips. The axles/splines can be removed via slidehammer. If I need a press for the bearings on the diff, I've got access to one, but I think I can work up something.

Get a rebuild kit from the dealer. + see if you can get new spring clips for the axles.

[Sered]

Took the diff to local machine shop since I don't have a vice or workbench. Paid him to remove the ring gear from the old diff, place on the new diff with blue loctite, and move the bearing races as well.

$40 well spent. This shop is high quality too, he resurfaced my S2000's flywheel a couple years ago and is always rebuilding/remachining engine blocks, heads, and diffs for all sorts of cars/trucks.

I'll be placing the diff back into the housing this evening.

[Sered]

Got the diff reassembled Friday and it was still within spec for the backlash. I ended up having to pick up a trans-jack, too. I could not get it lifted with just a regular jack

Used the trans-jack today and got it bolted back in. Everything is all buttoned up and I got to drive it around. It ran great, no gear noise or anything! Seems like all is well!

I'll have the howto done soon. Very tired

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by Sered

Got the diff reassembled Friday and it was still within spec for the backlash. I ended up having to pick up a trans-jack, too. I could not get it lifted with just a regular jack

Used the trans-jack today and got it bolted back in. Everything is all buttoned up and I got to drive it around. It ran great, no gear noise or anything! Seems like all is well!

I'll have the howto done soon. Very tired

Well done

[e679]

Great info thx

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by Sered

I'll try to get as many pictures up as possible and detail how I did it. I'll be doing the entire installation by myself (except the alignment) in my garage using basic hand-tools and some specific tools (like the driveshaft wrench) when needed

i ave one coming in soon and was going on do a install/DIY but my issues was the tension specs...are you doing this also?

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by Sered

Got the diff reassembled Friday and it was still within spec for the backlash.

This is the part I to not know how to do..."back lash". Did you replace wheel/axle bearings?

[Sered]

Originally Posted by robc1976

This is the part I to not know how to do..."back lash". Did you replace wheel/axle bearings?

The backlash is calculated using a dial indicator and stand. You essentially hold the input shaft in place, and lightly turn one output shaft back and forth (you can feel the ring gear teeth hitting the pinion teeth) to see how much 'play' or 'wiggle room' there is. Backlash measures that wiggle-room. The gear teeth do not ever seat fully, there is a small gap in them. That gap is adjustable using different C-clip arrangements and they vary in thickness. If your stock c-clips don't put it into the correct position (too much gap or too little gap), then you have to buy new c-clips from BMW.

I measured mine and it was .004" dead on in 5 different points before and after the install. The dial indicator and magnetic stand run about $70-80 or so online.

I did not replace my axle bearings or races. They were in outstanding shape.

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by Sered

The backlash is calculated using a dial indicator and stand. You essentially hold the input shaft in place, and lightly turn one output shaft back and forth (you can feel the ring gear teeth hitting the pinion teeth) to see how much 'play' or 'wiggle room' there is. Backlash measures that wiggle-room. The gear teeth do not ever seat fully, there is a small gap in them. That gap is adjustable using different C-clip arrangements and they vary in thickness. If your stock c-clips don't put it into the correct position (too much gap or too little gap), then you have to buy new c-clips from BMW.

I measured mine and it was .004" dead on in 5 different points before and after the install. The dial indicator and magnetic stand run about $70-80 or so online.

I did not replace my axle bearings or races. They were in outstanding shape.

Think I rather o another RB install before doing this....this is for my shop to do lol!! I need a 50MM wrench correct if I do decide to do this correct?

[sammy_0559]

bump for updates?

[Eric335]

interesting thread, would love to see the howto on this.