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E90 Double DIN Installation Kit
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02-24-2010, 11:02 AM | #1 |
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E90 Double DIN Installation Kit
Does anyone know where I can get a E90 Double DIN Installation Kit from?
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02-24-2010, 01:27 PM | #2 |
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Crutchfield?
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02-24-2010, 02:49 PM | #3 |
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No, this would have to be custom made. I've seen them here before in the range of ~$260 and you have to relocate your HVAC controls. Not worth it IMO unless you can get it made and have the spare cash.
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02-24-2010, 03:09 PM | #4 |
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Pioneer make one
Part number: CTSBM005FPAE It comes with can bus adapters as well, so everything is plug and play, including steering wheel controls. Metra make one too, but looks pretty pants.... Seen it advertised from $20 to $200!! |
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02-24-2010, 03:27 PM | #5 |
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I stand corrected. I'll look into them also, thanks man!!
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02-24-2010, 05:22 PM | #6 |
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Got it thanks guys...if someone needs one its right here.
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02-25-2010, 10:24 AM | #9 |
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Excellent find. I did not think they were made, and it's kind of expensive, but a double din looks amazing in there. What do we do with the heated seat controls?
EDIT: Metra's kit - 95-9306b you can find it on Google Shopping for between $20 and $40. It *looks* like the bottom of the kit has to be *screwed* into the bottom of the dash, which would of course be... uh... craptastic. Last edited by G35to330i; 02-25-2010 at 11:41 AM.. |
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02-25-2010, 08:40 PM | #11 |
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Remember that this is useless for Logic 7 devices since you can't get rid of the stereo in a Logic 7 system. If you wanted to do this with an L7 system, you'd need something like what the Japanese make, where you relocate the radio below the glovebox, or into the trunk.
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02-26-2010, 09:44 AM | #12 | |
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Quote:
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02-26-2010, 09:47 AM | #13 |
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Hmm. You'd actually scrap the L7 system? I'm really not sure that it's a good idea - it's too deeply intertwined with your car, you'd even lose your door chimes, it would seem. And anyway, L7 is a very good setup - unless you really want to go all out and set up a full-blown aftermarket system.
I suggest setting up a parallel system and run an AUX wire. Cleaner, and cheaper (but if I misunderstood, and you actually don't have L7, then none of this applies to you)
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02-26-2010, 09:55 AM | #14 |
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Yes, I have the L7 system (with the fiber optic connection from front to rear) and my plan was to replace the HU, run new sets of RCA's to the trunk and install 3 amps (2x 4ch and 1x 2ch) and then just splice into the factory wiring to the speakers. I know that I'll lose the factory bluetooth and SOS feature (I don't even know if I can use the SOS feature since i'm not the original owner and it has > 50k miles), but I'm not aware of anything else that I'll lose. If you know of other things I'll lose I'd love to hear it so I can make an informed decision.
Aside from that I think the L7 system sounds horrible.
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02-26-2010, 10:05 AM | #15 | |
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If you really mean to go all out on the audio install, then you can certainly get a much better sounding system. But I'm not sure I understand your channel breakup logic (i.e., why 2x 4ch and 1x 2ch). What are your plans for the stock speakers and subs?
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02-26-2010, 10:13 AM | #16 |
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The chimes will certainly be missed, but I love good sounding music so my basic logic is that music > chimes, but I certainly see your point.
My logic with the 2 4ch amps is as follows: -1 "front" 4 channel amp powering the front of the car - "front" channels going to the front door mid/tweeter, "rear" channels going to the under seat subs (crossed over as LP @ ~150hz from what I understand) -1 "rear" 4 channel amp powering the rear of the car - "front" channels going to the rear door speakers, "rear" channels going to the rear deck speakers. I would disregard the center channel speaker as I have heard it is of little use anyway, and quite honestly I can't see how to power it outside of adding another amp or changing out a 4 channel for a 5 channel. The separate 2ch amp will be used to power a single JL audio 10" subwoofer.
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02-26-2010, 10:17 AM | #17 |
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Best thing to do is take your car into a garage with autologic and get them to delete the options like, Logic7, SOS, Bluetooth etc.
Then fit aftermarket gear. |
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02-26-2010, 10:25 AM | #18 | ||
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Don't forget that you have twin subs under the seats, btw. Have you considered replacing them with slightly more powerful ones? I used to run a 10" sub in my previous car (in my sig), and I must say - oomph wise, the twin under-seat ones are not entirely horrible compared to that one. And please, insulate your trunk properly. There is nothing worse than a BMW with a rattling license plate.... I am willing to forgive riced Honda Civics that do it, as there is little hope for them, but for a proper car, it's unacceptable Quote:
[edit[ i mean, i understand they would remove the options from the car, but what's the goal of that if he's removing the associated hardware anyway? won't throw codes maybe?
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02-26-2010, 10:39 AM | #19 | |
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What about the seat heater and other controls? Ashtray bound? |
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02-26-2010, 10:43 AM | #20 | |
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It would stop errors and allow the dealer to diagnose and code your car with a double din unit in there. Or, simply run power and can hi-lo to teh trunk and fix the head unit in there and run a whole new load of cables for the aftermarket kit. |
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02-26-2010, 10:44 AM | #21 | |
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I think it looks a damned sight better than the Metra Fascia!! Seat heating controls need to be moved. |
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02-26-2010, 10:48 AM | #22 | |
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Oh and they may/not be mid bass drivers, I'm simply not well enough versed in the specific speaker jargon to know what they truly are. I assume (note what ass-ume means ) that the front tweeter/mid bass setup would be similar to aftermarket component set: input goes to the cross over and the cross over splits the sound to the tweeter and mid bass. So one channel on my amp powers 2 speakers due to the cross over. I plan on insulating the trunk as needed; I've not had license plate rattle in 4 cars (since high school) and I don't plan on starting now with my nice new Bavarian ride EDIT: Seat heater controls would go to the ash tray I guess. I don't smoke so I just put chapstick in there for now
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