[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

See what I mean...… ^

Yes, you WERE/ARE RIGHT and that's where I "made my error", replying, even in jest, to a thread that elicits all the thoughtful discourse of a "Trump Rally".

As to the part about OCI & "2019 lubricant technology" I do NOT profess to be an expert on the issue, but I note that there was no mention of ever having done any "oil analysis." Mike Miller, in his "Lifetime Maintenance Schedule" (pdf attached) states at page #5:

"the only way to verify an ideal fluid change interval is through consistent use of oil analysis."

Perhaps we could actually CALMLY & RATIONALLY focus on ONE aspect of OCI which I have NOT seen discussed, and that is "Crankcase Life" of Full Synthetic vs. Conventional Oil. With conventional oil, it was generally suggested that oil be changed every 3,000 - 5,000 miles or every YEAR, whichever occurred first. Since MOST of us don't have an oil analysis lab in our garage, I would be interested in knowing (link or cite to) any research report on "oil quality" degradation over time for Full Synthetic vs. Conventional.

ADDED QUESTION: "Short Trips" where full operating temp was never attained (e.g. driving 2 or 3 miles to work) used to be cited as hardest on oil quality. So perhaps rather than focusing on time sitting in oil sump after initial use, the focus should be on temperature changes, moisture attack on oil, etc.? ANY tests known, Synthetic/Conventional?

Thanks for playing (nicely ;-)
George

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Originally Posted by Welcome to NBA Jam

Hey George B. Althrop, here's where you made your error:

You Feel that a 10-15k oil change is too long. You feel it is too long based on what you've known in the past. You've failed to keep up with advancements in technology that make what you knew in the past irrelevant to today.

This is not but one study but many. The phrase "mumbo jumbo" is used by those who:

A. Refuse to innovate
B. Are scientifically uninformed
C. Are smart enough to know that marketing oversells things but also looks at modern advancements to know what's actually available and proven.

2019 lubricant technology != 1970 lubricant technology. You do 7,500 mile OCIs. Great for you! It's not a bad thing for your engine; you only spend more money than you need to. That's your choice. Regardless, it's scientifically deemed unnecessary in a majority of operating conditions for the E90. Your ECU is specifically tuned to take a series of inputs and tell you when to change the oil.

Okay yeah so what I need to do is not have a few drinks then read about oil, then find this thread and for some reason post this.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Welcome to NBA Jam

Okay yeah so what I need to do is not have a few drinks then read about oil, then find this thread and for some reason post this.

Thanks, no offense taken (by me) -- hopefully YOU as well. WHAT IS IT about oil that causes such things?

George

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Yes, you WERE/ARE RIGHT and that's where I "made my error", replying, even in jest, to a thread that elicits all the thoughtful discourse of a "Trump Rally".

As to the part about OCI & "2019 lubricant technology" I do NOT profess to be an expert on the issue, but I note that there was no mention of ever having done any "oil analysis." Mike Miller, in his "Lifetime Maintenance Schedule" (pdf attached) states at page #5:

"the only way to verify an ideal fluid change interval is through consistent use of oil analysis."

Perhaps we could actually CALMLY & RATIONALLY focus on ONE aspect of OCI which I have NOT seen discussed, and that is "Crankcase Life" of Full Synthetic vs. Conventional Oil. With conventional oil, it was generally suggested that oil be changed every 3,000 - 5,000 miles or every YEAR, whichever occurred first. Since MOST of us don't have an oil analysis lab in our garage, I would be interested in knowing (link or cite to) any research report on "oil quality" degradation over time for Full Synthetic vs. Conventional.

ADDED QUESTION: "Short Trips" where full operating temp was never attained (e.g. driving 2 or 3 miles to work) used to be cited as hardest on oil quality. So perhaps rather than focusing on time sitting in oil sump after initial use, the focus should be on temperature changes, moisture attack on oil, etc.? ANY tests known, Synthetic/Conventional?

Thanks for playing (nicely ;-)
George

Maybe we should close the thread on this...

Castrol got a new 5-qt. jug made up because the old blow-molds wore out (it happens...), so they revamped the lithographed lable and changed it for MARKETING purposes while they were at it.

Think of it as an "LCI" upgrade... same car underneath.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

...Castrol got a new 5-qt. jug made up because the old blow-molds wore out (it happens...), so they revamped the lithographed lable and changed it for MARKETING purposes while they were at it...

You mean NOTHING changed inside the newly designed & manufactured JUG???

I'm SHOCKED!!! (Cynical Sarcasm Intended)

George

[MartinWake]

All these specifications I think if it says full synthetic and is for sale meaning it went though test it should be fine for your car.. if my car is sold in the US why buy "European" formula oil... All oils do the same thing some just a bit different Unless you put straight up trash for oil most will do the same job..Why did I choose castrol? I have a friend that owns over 20 bmws for years now and castrol works best for him and I don't see so many negative things on that brand so I will use it too.

Maybe just maybe some other brand is a bit better but come on I dont own a race car lol

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by MartinWake

All these specifications I think if it says full synthetic and is for sale meaning it went though test it should be fine for your car.. if my car is sold in the US why buy "European" formula oil... All oils do the same thing some just a bit different Unless you put straight up trash for oil most will do the same job..Why did I choose castrol? I have a friend that owns over 20 bmws for years now and castrol works best for him and I don't see so many negative things on that brand so I will use it too.

Maybe just maybe some other brand is a bit better but come on I dont own a race car lol

Somebody should volunteer to run Super Tech 5w-30 from Walmart that's $16 for 5 quarts and try 10K mile OCIs, doing a used oil analysis every 2K miles to see what's up. I'd try it but at the rate I'm burning oil now (~1qt every ~2000 miles) it wouldn't be an accurate result since the sample at 10K would have had quite a bit of new oil topped off.

[CTinline-six]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

Somebody should volunteer to run Super Tech 5w-30 from Walmart that's $16 for 5 quarts and try 10K mile OCIs, doing a used oil analysis every 2K miles to see what's up. I'd try it but at the rate I'm burning oil now (~1qt every ~2000 miles) it wouldn't be an accurate result since the sample at 10K would have had quite a bit of new oil topped off.

There's a guy on Bob is the Oil Guy forums who ran Super Tech conventional for 10k miles in a van and it actually looked pretty decent in the used oil analysis.

I'd be interested to see what a good SN+ synthetic oil like Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 would show for a used oil analysis in the N52.

[BravoJohny33]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

Somebody should volunteer to run Super Tech 5w-30 from Walmart that's $16 for 5 quarts and try 10K mile OCIs, doing a used oil analysis every 2K miles to see what's up. I'd try it but at the rate I'm burning oil now (~1qt every ~2000 miles) it wouldn't be an accurate result since the sample at 10K would have had quite a bit of new oil topped off.

Like another poster said supertech is fine and bobtheoil guy already analyzed samples. But right now until September mobile 1 full syn is cheaper. For every 5 qt jug you buy at walmart for 22 dollars you can put in for a 12 dollar rebate up to 4 12 dollar rebates for address. So now would be the time to stock up.

[macheff03]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Anyone who asks any questions about oil and E90's at this point 13 years after introduction of the vehicle by BMW should be immediately banned.

Come on guys... search. There's even a sticky about oil in the maintenance section.

That's what this forum is for- he is in the right place

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by BravoJohny33

Like another poster said supertech is fine and bobtheoil guy already analyzed samples. But right now until September mobile 1 full syn is cheaper. For every 5 qt jug you buy at walmart for 22 dollars you can put in for a 12 dollar rebate up to 4 12 dollar rebates for address. So now would be the time to stock up.

That is awesome!

Castrol 0w-40 (Made in Belgium) is also on sale at Walmart right now for $22 and change. $5 cheaper than when I bought it two weeks ago. :-(

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by macheff03

That's what this forum is for- he is in the right place

He wrote "metal thingy". Please. Anyone who uses the term "thingy" on an enthusiasts auto forum...

[macheff03]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

He wrote "metal thingy". Please. Anyone who uses the term "thingy" on an enthusiasts auto forum...

So what? Does his grammar really matter? Why don't you inform him on what is it rather then saying he doesn't belong here

I understand you are probably purposely exaggerating this a little but really, is it necessary to even say that?

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by macheff03

So what? Does his grammar really matter? Why don't you inform him on what is it rather then saying he doesn't belong here

I understand you are probably purposely exaggerating this a little but really, is it necessary to even say that?

Been kinda joking on this thread a bit. You're being a bit too serious. But truthfully, engine oil has been discussed on E90 post for the past 13 years ad nauseum. There is really nothing to say that's not already been said a thousand times already. If the OP wanted to understand the difference between the oil, all he needs to do is read the specs on the label.

To me it just looks like a new packaging scheme. Blow molds for making the jugs do wear out, so that's when the product design is changed a bit to revise or update the marketing of the product. The OP sad he was just trying to figure out what was different between the two products and not debate what oil is best of the E90. The OP should have placed the thread in the general automotive section rather than the E90 Post section and he would have got far less "Bob the oil guy says" and "I do a $25 oil analysis every time I change my oil" posts.

And the "metal thingy" is obviously an oil filter...

[OTO335i]

Originally Posted by MartinWake

All these specifications I think if it says full synthetic and is for sale meaning it went though test it should be fine for your car.. if my car is sold in the US why buy "European" formula oil... All oils do the same thing some just a bit different Unless you put straight up trash for oil most will do the same job..Why did I choose castrol? I have a friend that owns over 20 bmws for years now and castrol works best for him and I don't see so many negative things on that brand so I will use it too.

Maybe just maybe some other brand is a bit better but come on I dont own a race car lol

This is basically it! people get really bum hurt on this topic lol I run the Catrol edge and have been for 2 years at 5,000Km's interval with zero issue, I'm still on stock turbo's and just creped passed 185,000 kms.

If it's full synthetic and the weight that's required than it's fine to me!

[drawz]

Oil weight is a very simplistic way to assess an oil's ability to protect your engine. Oil breaks down over time and even changes weight over time. That's why each manufacturer has their own set of certifications to ensure an oil will be ok for their specified OCI. There may be other oils that haven't been tested that are fine, but the only way to know that is if a bunch of people have actually tested it with a proper used oil analysis (see bobistheoilguy forums). Simply getting 5w30 synthetic is not always good enough...but it might be.

Edit - that bimmerworld article is very good. Read that and/or just buy something that meets the certification for your engine.