[Robimplicit]

Hi:
I have a 2011 BMW 335d purchased with 60,000 miles. I changed the transmission fluid + cover/filter at 63,000 miles. I assume this was the first such service for this car. At 90,000 miles I plan to change the fluid, filter/cover, and sealing, bridge and tube sleeves. My question is whether the solenoids also should be replaced at that point or can that service wait until 120,000 miles (or beyond)? The car drives well now (at 83,000 miles) and no apparent problem with the transmission.
Thank you.
-Robert.

[335dlci]

I wouldnt.

[fearitself165]

if 355dlci means what i think hes saying then i agree, dont do the solenoids just yet.. especially if youre not having problems. After doing research that is one of two most common causes of trouble with the ZF 6HP transmissions. So basically I think once you start noticing a loss of performance or have any DTC related to the transmission, that would be the first thing I would do. The second problem is bearings IIRC.. So you can get updated brass bearing kits for that.

EDIT: Scratch that... I must have skipped over the part where you already changed at 60k. I wouldnt worry about the solenoids, pan, filter, any of that... But i would do the sleeves (4), the plug adapter and the other one that seals. Now i believe you cant reuse the gasket so youre supposed to change that if youre dropping the pan though. On second thought, if youre dropping the pan, i would just base it off the appearance of your ATF. If it still looks clean then skip it.

[robnitro]

I think what kills these solenoids is old fluid which varnishes the ports inside them.
My co worker had a terminal case, 135k and a lot of city driving. The fluid was black!

Mine was done at 105k- mostly highway miles and fluid was brownish. I did a second fluid change at 110k as approx half the fluid stays inside, and that time I did the sleeves. It's a bit of a pain to get the parking actuator lever to line up after and the plug connector is in a tight spot on the X5!

Good thing BMW has a short warranty and they rather sell a new car than fix a good one... hahaha

[gmcxr]

I am also planning to change my transmission fluid soon. After changing the transmission fluid, is it recommended to do a transmission reset? I found this procedure online, but I am not quite sure it is for the 335d.

Transmission Reset Procedure
Key in, press start button (don't touch the brake), wait for dash lights to go out
Foot to the floor on accelerator for 30 secs
Turn off ignition
Release pedal
Wait 5 mins

[fearitself165]

Originally Posted by robnitro

I think what kills these solenoids is old fluid which varnishes the ports inside them.
My co worker had a terminal case, 135k and a lot of city driving. The fluid was black!

Mine was done at 105k- mostly highway miles and fluid was brownish. I did a second fluid change at 110k as approx half the fluid stays inside, and that time I did the sleeves. It's a bit of a pain to get the parking actuator lever to line up after and the plug connector is in a tight spot on the X5!

Good thing BMW has a short warranty and they rather sell a new car than fix a good one... hahaha

I think not having the parking actuator lever to line up is what the problem is with mine right now. The problem is i dont have anywhere to check it or i would do it myself, and the battery died first before this so i had it towed to a regular shop 1st. They said its running but he tried to turn it on and told me that it would shift but its not moving anywhere.. Likely related to the shift lever im guessing? Well they wouldnt take a look at the transmission pan whatsoever so im having it towed to a transmission shop down the street.

[335dlci]

Originally Posted by fearitself165

I think not having the parking actuator lever to line up is what the problem is with mine right now. The problem is i dont have anywhere to check it or i would do it myself, and the battery died first before this so i had it towed to a regular shop 1st. They said its running but he tried to turn it on and told me that it would shift but its not moving anywhere.. Likely related to the shift lever im guessing? Well they wouldnt take a look at the transmission pan whatsoever so im having it towed to a transmission shop down the street.

Did you not want to pay to have the pan removed or they just dont want to do it?

[fearitself165]

Originally Posted by 335dlci

Did you not want to pay to have the pan removed or they just dont want to do it?

oh no im totally willing to pay to have the pan removed. the guy said theyre willing to install transmissions but they dont want to touch anything inside of them.. the kind of mechanic who acts like they know everything and then when you mention you touched a valvebody bolt they think you screwed up the whole transmission. Oh and and takes 3 days and charges me 120 dollars to install and register a battery. lol. Good thing i bought it from walmart a month ago. I hope its actually coded for AGM like they said, but i might have to check after i get my K+DCAN cable. EDIT: Forgot to mention I paid the difference for the battery. I was able to get the H8 AGM which they had in stock this time instead of the H7 flooded lead battery.. $30 difference after prorate for dead battery. They were going to charge me 340 I believe for the battery, and install.. I think.. Not 100% on that.

Anyway, ya.. Pray for me guys. Im broke right now and spent my savings on wheels and tires, tune and delete parts, etc. So luckily my wife has some money but its embarassing to have to ask her to pay to fix something on the car that ive been wrenching on by myself... until now. Also im ready to go back to work, but I cant without the car.. Sorry for all this ive just been stressed lately.

[604x5]

Originally Posted by fearitself165

oh no im totally willing to pay to have the pan removed. the guy said theyre willing to install transmissions but they dont want to touch anything inside of them.. the kind of mechanic who acts like they know everything and then when you mention you touched a valvebody bolt they think you screwed up the whole transmission. Oh and and takes 3 days and charges me 120 dollars to install and register a battery. lol. Good thing i bought it from walmart a month ago. I hope its actually coded for AGM like they said, but i might have to check after i get my K+DCAN cable. EDIT: Forgot to mention I paid the difference for the battery. I was able to get the H8 AGM which they had in stock this time instead of the H7 flooded lead battery.. $30 difference after prorate for dead battery. They were going to charge me 340 I believe for the battery, and install.. I think.. Not 100% on that.

Anyway, ya.. Pray for me guys. Im broke right now and spent my savings on wheels and tires, tune and delete parts, etc. So luckily my wife has some money but its embarassing to have to ask her to pay to fix something on the car that ive been wrenching on by myself... until now. Also im ready to go back to work, but I cant without the car.. Sorry for all this ive just been stressed lately.

If I owned a shop I wouldn't touch it either.