[Mik325tds]

I don't think Carly can reset adaptions. The most important one after CBU cleaning is resetting the increment wheel adaptations which even some USB cables with ISTA can't do. I'm pretty sure that resetting the MAF adaptations wouldn't have cured the -160C of the MAF sensor. So either way you'd have needed both. Yet you probably could have gotten a Bosch MAF for around $100 somewhere else.

[Darkswarmer]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

I don't think Carly can reset adaptions. The most important one after CBU cleaning is resetting the increment wheel adaptations which even some USB cables with ISTA can't do. I'm pretty sure that resetting the MAF adaptations wouldn't have cured the -160C of the MAF sensor. So either way you'd have needed both. Yet you probably could have gotten a Bosch MAF for around $100 somewhere else.

Thanks. Sounds like it's time to consult Almighty internet for learning about "increment wheel adaptations". Sounds mysterious.

[sjobs99]

Anyone willing to rent the BMW wands and vacuum adapters?

[Darkswarmer]

Originally Posted by sjobs99

Anyone willing to rent the BMW wands and vacuum adapters?

I am but I'm in the SLC area.

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by sjobs99

Anyone willing to rent the BMW wands and vacuum adapters?

Mine are currently at another member. If it isn't time critical you can have them after he is finished.

[sjobs99]

Originally Posted by lee4him

...The process I used was as follows: (be sure to remove the EGR/throttle body, swirl flaps and sensor from the intake before you start this process. Bottom-line you want to remove everything from the intake)...

Can you explain which part is the "sensor" that needs to be removed? I'm going to get the manifold pressure washed so want to make sure I get everything off.

[ddinse]

Originally Posted by sjobs99

Can you explain which part is the "sensor" that needs to be removed? I'm going to get the manifold pressure washed so want to make sure I get everything off.

See pic

[DougNBodie]

I have 75,000 miles on my car now and just replaced #6 glow plug.....So I had my intake off and thought there would be mass CBU but my car was clean with no build up at all.
I live in California and we pay a shit ton for gas and I know that Cali. gas has a lot more additives in it to help the fuel burn cleaner then every other state out there but from all I've heard about every BMW out there needing CBU cleaning....I'm at a loss.
Is this an issue that California owners just dont have to deal with. I contacted several shops in the Newport Beach O.C. area and they said they hardly ever do walnut blasting on any BMW post 2008. Why all the talk of walnut blasting on here? Another thing that is a huge Question is the Swirl Flaps.....Same shops said there is not a problem with them post 2008? I'd like to hear some experience of others.......Thanks

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by DougNBodie

I have 75,000 miles on my car now and just replaced #6 glow plug.....So I had my intake off and thought there would be mass CBU but my car was clean with no build up at all.
I live in California and we pay a shit ton for gas and I know that Cali. gas has a lot more additives in it to help the fuel burn cleaner then every other state out there but from all I've heard about every BMW out there needing CBU cleaning....I'm at a loss.
Is this an issue that California owners just dont have to deal with. I contacted several shops in the Newport Beach O.C. area and they said they hardly ever do walnut blasting on any BMW post 2008. Why all the talk of walnut blasting on here? Another thing that is a huge Question is the Swirl Flaps.....Same shops said there is not a problem with them post 2008? I'd like to hear some experience of others.......Thanks

For you the decision is quite easy, if there isn't any buildup you don't need to clean. The swirl flaps in our cars don't really pose a risk to the engine in terms of braking. They do tend to leak sooner or later so watch for oil under the flap area. Usually #5, #6. If everything is clean, I would not block them.

[kpm]

As original owner of my 2009 335d and fearing CBU for years, after 207,000 kms/128,000 miles, mine had yet to experience CBU related check engine codes or significant mileage drop. In recently removing the intake manifold to replace the glow plug controller, I got my first glimpse of the “as is" condition......see pics..

While there is less carbon than expected and it's tempting to just re-install the intake manifold, my maintenance background makes me sympathetic to get the walnut blasting done while things are accessible. Can any members in the GTA area recommend an independent garage in the west Toronto to Hamilton area that perform this service and are familiar with our M57 engine?
Alternatively, though not a venture that is on my “bucket list”, with the great trailblazing work documented by various others on this awesome forum, I could probably muster the courage to take this on myself. Are there any members in the GTA area who own and would rent out the special tools, (wands, vacuum adaptors, engine turning tool) that are needed for this work?
Stay safe!

[Wolf 335]

Originally Posted by kpm

As original owner of my 2009 335d and fearing CBU for years, after 207,000 kms/128,000 miles, mine had yet to experience CBU related check engine codes or significant mileage drop. In recently removing the intake manifold to replace the glow plug controller, I got my first glimpse of the “as is" condition......see pics..

While there is less carbon than expected and it's tempting to just re-install the intake manifold, my maintenance background makes me sympathetic to get the walnut blasting done while things are accessible. Can any members in the GTA area recommend an independent garage in the west Toronto to Hamilton area that perform this service and are familiar with our M57 engine?
Alternatively, though not a venture that is on my “bucket list”, with the great trailblazing work documented by various others on this awesome forum, I could probably muster the courage to take this on myself. Are there any members in the GTA area who own and would rent out the special tools, (wands, vacuum adaptors, engine turning tool) that are needed for this work?
Stay safe!

Did you take any pics of the valves inside?

[kpm]

Originally Posted by Wolf 335

Did you take any pics of the valves inside?

No internal pics at this point... Don’t have immediate access to a bore scope and uncertain of the risk the and the potential impact of dislodging any carbon without being at DTC and having walnut blasting setup in place.

[Mach.81]

Time to get your hands on a good scope. My bet is that it doesn't look so good around the valves.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by kpm

No internal pics at this point... Don’t have immediate access to a bore scope and uncertain of the risk the and the potential impact of dislodging any carbon without being at DTC and having walnut blasting setup in place.

A forum member sells this plug that has a pressure hose connector. The idea is you put the plug in the round port and apply compressor pressure. If you get a strong blast out of the same cylinder's rectangular port, you know the 2 intake valves are closed. If its a muted response, some pressure is getting through into cylinder.
Mike Stoner, please elaborate and/or correct me if i screwed up the description.

[Cruiser124]

2010 335D 111k miles. Completely stock up until last week. Never had a carbon clean done before and last thing on my list was to remove the manifold for swirl flap delete/carbon.

To my surprise all 6 lower ports were completely clean. Almost no signs of carbon on the tunnel walls or valve (scope camera). The manifold as well as the upper ports had lots of carbon. When it came to the upper ports most of the restriction was on the plastic valve cover side. I didn't have the walnut blaster tool so I scraped the upper portion and it clean up perfect. Obviously I wasn't able to scrape all the way down to the valve. When it came to the manifold I probably scraped off enough to fill a quart container. After scraping I soaked multiple times overnight with purple power and pressure washed. End result was almost perfect.

[kaze0025]

What are the chances a CBU can resolve these codes? 40D4 46F2 4D16

I just picked up this car and have done the SCR test, replaced NOX sensors, cleaned metering valve and EGR. Still get the codes

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by Cruiser124

2010 335D 111k miles. Completely stock up until last week. Never had a carbon clean done before and last thing on my list was to remove the manifold for swirl flap delete/carbon.

To my surprise all 6 lower ports were completely clean. Almost no signs of carbon on the tunnel walls or valve (scope camera). The manifold as well as the upper ports had lots of carbon. When it came to the upper ports most of the restriction was on the plastic valve cover side. I didn't have the walnut blaster tool so I scraped the upper portion and it clean up perfect. Obviously I wasn't able to scrape all the way down to the valve. When it came to the manifold I probably scraped off enough to fill a quart container. After scraping I soaked multiple times overnight with purple power and pressure washed. End result was almost perfect.

Wow, this was about the worst CBU I've seen so far. Very interesting that the tangential ports were clean. Maybe your engine gets warm enough to heat up the CBU enough for it to move on the metal walls. In that case you should be fine with the cleanup you did. Thanks for posting.

[335_DE90]

Does anyone know of a private shop that would do a cbu cleaning in the DelMarVa area? It seems like all the shops around here only deal with N54 stuff. I just got quoted $2k+ from the dealer to do it (yikes). And I'm a little hesitant to do it myself since I'd have to buy all of the stuff for a one time thing.

[tcolberg]

Originally Posted by 335_DE90

Does anyone know of a private shop that would do a cbu cleaning in the DelMarVa area? It seems like all the shops around here only deal with N54 stuff. I just got quoted $2k+ from the dealer to do it (yikes). And I'm a little hesitant to do it myself since I'd have to buy all of the stuff for a one time thing.

J&F Motors in Arlington will do the walnut blasting for about $800. But, if you need to replace the intake manifold and valve covers at the same time (due to plastic getting old), then it'll be about $4700. This is what I'm about to go through.

[335_DE90]

$800 isn't too bad. How would one know if it would need the valve cover and intake replaced before they dig into it though? I would think even if its brittle they should be able to get it off without breaking it if they are careful. And if they do JB Weld fixes all

[Tomnavigator]

I carbon cleaned my 335D with 90,000 miles myself. This is what I did.
1) put kleenex (toilet paper will work) pieces over your round ports. Then blow air in the square port of each cylinder. A shop vac with the hose on the blowing out side, a hair dryer, or air hose will all work. I used an air hose. You don't need to seal the port. If the paper stays in place the inlet valves are closed. Clean the cylinders with closed valves. Five of my cylinders had the intake valves closed.
2) I rotated the engine by turning the nut on the alternator pulley with a socket on a ratchet. Turn it clockwise. Turning the alternator pulley will turn the engine over. I put a piece of masking tape on the harmonic balancer so I could easily monitor how far I had turned it. Turn the harmonic balancer one complete turn. Check your cylinders again and you will find the cylinders that were open are now closed. Clean the rest of the cylinders.
I bought my walnut blaster from Harbor freight (media blaster) and made my own wands using 3/8 copper tubing and a compression fitting. It worked but 5/16 tubing would have been better because my air tank ran out of air too fast and I went through walnut shells insanely fast. I watched my air pressure and blasted from 125 PSI to 40 psi. It would take about 30 seconds for the pressure to drop from 125 to 40 psi. I bought the fine grade walnut shells because I read that course grade caused plugging problems and did not flow very well. Fine grade walnut shells flowed extremely well. Almost too well. I bought one 25 pound box of walnut shells. I recycled (reused) the walnut shells three times after filtering out the carbon particles with window screen.

[Tomnavigator]

Sorry I did not include everything in my previous post. Here is what I left out.
I made me some scrapers and scraped out as much carbon as I could before I walnut blasted out the remaining carbon.
Air pressure and air flow are your friends. More pressure and more flow are what is needed to make it work. Use a large air supply line for success. Blast until the pressure drops. Then let your air compressor refill your air tank before starting again.
I made two wands one about 5 inches long and one about 8 inches long. You will have to bend them to get them to go into the intake all the way.
Bend the end of one wand so the media comes out at a good angle . I cut the end of the tubing at an angle and bent the end like a flap to divert the flow at an angle. This is needed to get the top side of the intake at the bottom because the intake has a good curve in it.
The media worked just as well the third time I used it as the first time. I had no problems with media plugging. I could not tell that the media had degraded any after multiple uses.