[Chapperss]

Where the hell you find a MTC Ic for £130?? got bargain me reckons.

If you are religious with putting in 99ron then map the 98 ron map as it`s designed for the better fuel.

I`m running V9 and prefer it to the V7 others don't so have a play. The turbos spool later IMO on the V9 map and I like it as it gives more control over going into boost or not. The kick is also more aggressive, which again I like. That's just from bum feel, I could have it totally backwards

[Willygbr66]

Originally Posted by Chapperss

Where the hell you find a MTC Ic for £130?? got bargain me reckons.

If you are religious with putting in 99ron then map the 98 ron map as it`s designed for the better fuel.

I`m running V9 and prefer it to the V7 others don't so have a play. The turbos spool later IMO on the V9 map and I like it as it gives more control over going into boost or not. The kick is also more aggressive, which again I like. That's just from bum feel, I could have it totally backwards

Lol. Thanks Chapperss.

I was just browsing marketplace on that well known social site over weekend. Guy was asking £180. Put a really cheeky offer in at £130 as I had to collect and he accepted. Nice guy though. Has an N55 335i with an Evolve stage 2 tune and upgraded to a 7.5” FMIC. Too be honest lucked out on that one.
Will try V9 and 98ron over the weekend and compare. Thanks for your input.

[Dave92N54]

Originally Posted by snaeem155

Hey,

So the juddering at idle is still there - going in for a walnut blast at the indy I use this Wednesday.

The fluctuating voltage issue is gone since I went from a 70ah lead acid battery (was brand new) to a 95ah AGM.

Lastly the car does break traction now on stage 1+ but just feels like its struggling to breathe hence the walnut blast, its on 68k now and its never had it done.

It has however now developed a plastic rattle at idle from the engine bay which is annoying to trace.

Always fun with an N54.

If it's from the driver's side it's probably the "fuel tank breather valve with breather line". I tried pasting an FCP link but it was not having it.

[Willygbr66]

Quick question to anyone who may be able to answer. When uploading the stage 1+ map I forgot to check the OEM/catted do box. Having still got cats should this have done any harm? I have since rectified my mistake.

[stewbets]

No harm done. That just tells MHD to silence the check engine light that occurs due to the O2 sensors correctly telling the DME that the cats aren't working (because they're missing).

[Willygbr66]

Originally Posted by stewbets

No harm done. That just tells MHD to silence the check engine light that occurs due to the O2 sensors correctly telling the DME that the cats aren't working (because they're missing).

Thank you.

[Willygbr66]

Sorry to be posting another question. Have my car booked in for a walnut blast in two weeks. It’s got 117k on the clock and I don’t believe it’s ever had one and I am only the second owner having picked it up at 55k.
Is it worth getting an oil catch can installed after the blasting? Any considerable benefits?

[stewbets]

Hey, this is your thread. You take us wherever you want to go! I haven't messed with oil catch cans yet as there is a lot of conflicting information out there on their usefulness, thus I chose the path of least resistance. Some say one isn't enough and that if you're going to do it right you need a high pressure one and a low pressure one. The high pressure one is easy to add. The low pressure one requires you to convert the internal PCV valve into an external one before adding the can. I've also read that the low pressure side is what contributes the most to carbon buildup on your valves. Anyhow, I didn't find walnut blasting to be all that difficult or annoying. I got everything I needed for around $60 too, so I figure I'll just blast again when the time comes, if it comes. That's just my take on the issue.

[Chapperss]

Originally Posted by stewbets

Hey, this is your thread. You take us wherever you want to go! I haven't messed with oil catch cans yet as there is a lot of conflicting information out there on their usefulness, thus I chose the path of least resistance. Some say one isn't enough and that if you're going to do it right you need a high pressure one and a low pressure one. The high pressure one is easy to add. The low pressure one requires you to convert the internal PCV valve into an external one before adding the can. I've also read that the low pressure side is what contributes the most to carbon buildup on your valves. Anyhow, I didn't find walnut blasting to be all that difficult or annoying. I got everything I needed for around $60 too, so I figure I'll just blast again when the time comes, if it comes. That's just my take on the issue.

+1 on this - Didn`t know about the High and Low Pressure stuff, but my digging brought up the same results re: the mixed feelings on the issue. For something that needs doing every 30 to 50k miles I decided not to bother.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by stewbets

Hey, this is your thread. You take us wherever you want to go! I haven't messed with oil catch cans yet as there is a lot of conflicting information out there on their usefulness, thus I chose the path of least resistance. Some say one isn't enough and that if you're going to do it right you need a high pressure one and a low pressure one. The high pressure one is easy to add. The low pressure one requires you to convert the internal PCV valve into an external one before adding the can. I've also read that the low pressure side is what contributes the most to carbon buildup on your valves. Anyhow, I didn't find walnut blasting to be all that difficult or annoying. I got everything I needed for around $60 too, so I figure I'll just blast again when the time comes, if it comes. That's just my take on the issue.

Doing the same thing, just gonna Walnut blast when the time comes, not gonna bother with catch cans.

[Dave92N54]

Originally Posted by stewbets

Hey, this is your thread. You take us wherever you want to go! I haven't messed with oil catch cans yet as there is a lot of conflicting information out there on their usefulness, thus I chose the path of least resistance. Some say one isn't enough and that if you're going to do it right you need a high pressure one and a low pressure one. The high pressure one is easy to add. The low pressure one requires you to convert the internal PCV valve into an external one before adding the can. I've also read that the low pressure side is what contributes the most to carbon buildup on your valves. Anyhow, I didn't find walnut blasting to be all that difficult or annoying. I got everything I needed for around $60 too, so I figure I'll just blast again when the time comes, if it comes. That's just my take on the issue.

It's nowhere near as hard as it used to be. Burger sells a double catch can kit that works on the typical boost side and the other goes right where your pcv valve is, no tapping the cover.

[Willygbr66]

Again many thanks for all comments/thoughts. I think I will pass on the OCC and save the money for general maintenance issues when and where necessary. As a 55 year old owner of my 335i, which puts a smile on my face every time I drive her, I think I’ll leave any further mods to one side and just enjoy the daily life of driving as she presently is.

[fgpalmer71]

Not a bad play from where I sit.

Walnut blasting.....I have given thought to buying all of the equipment needed and giving it a go myself. I've hesitated because I can't see using it again for around 10 years or so. I've given thought to driving roughly 6 hours away to have it done in order to save roughly $650 on having it done. Cheapest I've found thus far that's any closer is $1k.....I think that's robbery. I have an aluminum replacement PCV setup waiting to be installed. I was planning on doing the low side CC but that doesn't seem to actually stop the need to blast in the future, just prolongs it. I'm going to pass on the OCC too.

[Chapperss]

Popped back to this thread to say with the temps at 8C ambient today I was hitting 60c on Stage 1+ and stock intercooler quite regularly on today's drive - Two pulls back to back was consistently setting of my alarm set in Torque Pro (set to sound if Intake air reaches 60C).

Last week I wasn`t logging and got a low boost error, followed by high boost and deactivation of boost codes - thinking the high intake temps were the cause as it didn't do it today when logging and allowing temps to come back down.

Will be flashing back to just normal stage 1 soon

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by Chapperss

Popped back to this thread to say with the temps at 8C ambient today I was hitting 60c on Stage 1+ and stock intercooler quite regularly on today's drive - Two pulls back to back was consistently setting of my alarm set in Torque Pro (set to sound if Intake air reaches 60C).

Last week I wasn`t logging and got a low boost error, followed by high boost and deactivation of boost codes - thinking the high intake temps were the cause as it didn't do it today when logging and allowing temps to come back down.

Will be flashing back to just normal stage 1 soon

That's not good, if you look at your logs, at 60 degrees C, you will have several timing corrections, stock intercooler heatsoaked. It takes ages to get the temps down from 60c too. This is why I didn't even bother trying stage 1+ on stock intercooler.