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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > front turbo actuator rod adjustment



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      09-19-2013, 02:09 PM   #23
BMWM.D.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesM3M5 View Post
Why so much vacuum? The spec is 200mbar, or 5.9inHg. The solenoids maintain approx 6-7inHg vacuum, which is why they rattle badly when the WGs are not closed by that point.
According to BMW, there should be 14-17 inches of vacuum at the actuators at idle speed (where most rattle is present). I know the spec is 200 mb, but that's also using the "black box", not a vacuum pump. In the end, the adjustment is pretty subjective anyway. How loose/tight they are is really up to the opinion of the person doing the job.

I've used 8-9 inches with a vacuum pump in the past, and have never had an issue with rattle. It isn't something I do very often these days, though. Most of those early cars aren't going to dealerships anymore.
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      09-20-2013, 08:53 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWM.D. View Post
According to BMW, there should be 14-17 inches of vacuum at the actuators at idle speed (where most rattle is present). I know the spec is 200 mb, but that's also using the "black box", not a vacuum pump. In the end, the adjustment is pretty subjective anyway. How loose/tight they are is really up to the opinion of the person doing the job.

I've used 8-9 inches with a vacuum pump in the past, and have never had an issue with rattle. It isn't something I do very often these days, though. Most of those early cars aren't going to dealerships anymore.
Actuators are 100% fully closed at around 8-9 in/hg and will not contract anymore past that, when they see higher vacuum than that it is just to hold them closed against the back pressure that builds up in the housing. We have tested over 100 of them, they are all the same. The waste gate arm is wearing inside the sleeve itself causing it to oblong, this is where the excess play comes in and why you have to tighten, as now when the actuator moves it has to take up that sideways play first then it starts closing the valve.

Last edited by Tony@vargasturbotech; 09-20-2013 at 09:06 AM..
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      09-20-2013, 09:19 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vargasturbotech View Post
Actuators are 100% fully closed at around 8-9 in/hg and will not contract anymore past that, when they see higher vacuum than that it is just to hold them closed against the back pressure that builds up in the housing. We have tested over 100 of them, they are all the same. The waste gate arm is wearing inside the sleeve itself causing it to oblong, this is where the excess play comes in and why you have to tighten, as now when the actuator moves it has to take up that sideways play first then it starts closing the valve.
I agree with that, and that was pretty much my point. I don't think it's super critical what vacuum reading you use to adjust the actuators as long as they are fully closed. I'm not quite sure why BMW mentions 200 mb since there is quite a bit more vacuum being supplied by the vacuum pump during engine operation.

And yeah, adjusting the rod is really a band-air fix for wear in the actual wastegate mechanism. Most of the time the wear is well outside of the acceptable range, and new turbos are the real answer.
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      10-13-2013, 08:53 PM   #26
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Hey guys,
Just wanted to let everybody knows that adjusting the front wastegate with washers under the 2 12mm that hold the actuator bracket is possible and fairly easy!!

All you need is a few 8mm washers . It took 2 on each bolt for me to adjust the wastegate to be closed at around 5.9 in. Hg

It's a 1-2h job.

To reach those two bolts I took the radiator fan and the vacuum canisters and that is it! No need to remove the inlet pipe. I was able to reach both the bolts with an extension on my ratchet. Nothing else needed . Go in from the front ( where you removed the fan. Top bolt is really easy as you can see it from the top of the engine ( where you removed the canisters. Go between the coolant hoses to reach it. For the bottom bolt do the same . You can reach it with your extension between the top of the water pump and one of the coolant hose ( still from front of engine) . To see what you're doing lay under the car and you will be able to see the bolt if you look through the space on the left side ( driver side) of the water pump .

Sounds complicate but you will figure it out once you get to it. The only thing I had a hard time with and that took the most time was getting the washers on there since you can get your hands in the tight space . I used one of those magnet stick tool.

MY RATTLE IS 100% GONE! ( at least for right now)
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      10-25-2013, 09:44 PM   #27
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Anyone have pics??
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      10-25-2013, 10:12 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tzu View Post
Yes, there is a way to do it. But you have to remove many components for access, and it's about a 6 hour job. JamesM3M5 made a detailed thread about it, and a few of us did it following that thread. It's a serious PITA.
I took both turbos off and subframe in about 4 hours. My buddy said it was quick....guess I was. You can get front turbos of in around 2 hours plus if you have done it before. I would take them off to adjust them or very least have Dps off to properly adjust them.
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      11-17-2013, 12:17 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waikiki35 View Post
Hey guys,
Just wanted to let everybody knows that adjusting the front wastegate with washers under the 2 12mm that hold the actuator bracket is possible and fairly easy!!

All you need is a few 8mm washers . It took 2 on each bolt for me to adjust the wastegate to be closed at around 5.9 in. Hg

It's a 1-2h job.

To reach those two bolts I took the radiator fan and the vacuum canisters and that is it! No need to remove the inlet pipe. I was able to reach both the bolts with an extension on my ratchet. Nothing else needed . Go in from the front ( where you removed the fan. Top bolt is really easy as you can see it from the top of the engine ( where you removed the canisters. Go between the coolant hoses to reach it. For the bottom bolt do the same . You can reach it with your extension between the top of the water pump and one of the coolant hose ( still from front of engine) . To see what you're doing lay under the car and you will be able to see the bolt if you look through the space on the left side ( driver side) of the water pump .

Sounds complicate but you will figure it out once you get to it. The only thing I had a hard time with and that took the most time was getting the washers on there since you can get your hands in the tight space . I used one of those magnet stick tool.

MY RATTLE IS 100% GONE! ( at least for right now)

Waikiki35 - Is the washer fix still keeping your rattle at ease? I'm actually in the middle of trying fix but can't find my way to the front turbo...it just seems way to tight to reach it. I feel like I'm way off because your post says a 1-2 hour job and it just isn't working out for me.
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      03-20-2014, 11:24 PM   #30
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worked for me thanks Waikiki!!! however im still not sure on how to check my vacuum I have a mityvac but don't know how to use it . if someone can help that would be great!
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      03-21-2014, 08:30 AM   #31
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You hook the mityvac to the vac line going to the actuator and start pumping to pull a vac. You will start seeing the actuator pull. You need to have your downpipes off to see at what vac level the wastegate arm is fully closed.
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      05-11-2017, 03:04 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waikiki35 View Post
Hey guys,
Just wanted to let everybody knows that adjusting the front wastegate with washers under the 2 12mm that hold the actuator bracket is possible and fairly easy!!

All you need is a few 8mm washers . It took 2 on each bolt for me to adjust the wastegate to be closed at around 5.9 in. Hg

It's a 1-2h job.

To reach those two bolts I took the radiator fan and the vacuum canisters and that is it! No need to remove the inlet pipe. I was able to reach both the bolts with an extension on my ratchet. Nothing else needed . Go in from the front ( where you removed the fan. Top bolt is really easy as you can see it from the top of the engine ( where you removed the canisters. Go between the coolant hoses to reach it. For the bottom bolt do the same . You can reach it with your extension between the top of the water pump and one of the coolant hose ( still from front of engine) . To see what you're doing lay under the car and you will be able to see the bolt if you look through the space on the left side ( driver side) of the water pump .

Sounds complicate but you will figure it out once you get to it. The only thing I had a hard time with and that took the most time was getting the washers on there since you can get your hands in the tight space . I used one of those magnet stick tool.

MY RATTLE IS 100% GONE! ( at least for right now)
Waikiki.. YOU! ARE! MY! HERO!!!

this job was very tricky and it took me about 2h and my hand hurts a little but it totally worth it!

My n54 rattled so damn hard, ist was so awful.. First i adjusted the rear wastegate, wich brings more responsive boost, but not perfect and the rattle was not gone.
Then, a half year later i saw this posting and wanted to give it a try because i cant lift the Car and it sounds easy to do.

I put 2 washers each bolt behind the wastegate holder and don't checked how much hg it is. I had not much hope that the rattle will be gone but what should i say...

THE RATTLE IS.. 100%!!! GONE!!

it's unbelieveble because it's so simple. It's like i have a new car.

Thank you very much waikiki!
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      05-11-2017, 03:16 PM   #33
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I also did this, took about an hr and a half, was quite easy and totally worth it
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      06-14-2017, 02:33 PM   #34
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What kind of 8mm washer did you guys use? Any pictures of them? Where to get them? Thanks
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      06-14-2017, 02:38 PM   #35
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Look here http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1390923
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      06-15-2017, 10:21 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meatos View Post
Thanks man this helps out! But still doesn't help with what kind of washer it was.

The link has a bunch of stuff on the C-clip which makes sense why this fix works. The additional 2 washers probably make up for the support the C-clip was suppose to be there for. I'm going to have to check if my clips are still there.

If they aren't I'd rather go with the washers knowing that they wont fall off like the clips do.
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      06-15-2017, 12:02 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by validated335 View Post
But still doesn't help with what kind of washer it was.
Heavens to Betsy!!! This really isn't that difficult.

Go to the store and buy these...these are known as "washers" and are classified as being 8mm in nature:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-12-...xvmRoCpXLw_wcB

Mine took 2 washers on each bolt to adjust the wastegate to be closed at around 5.9 in. Hg

If you truly need any more information than what has already been provided via spoon feeding within this thread, search.
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      06-26-2017, 07:43 PM   #38
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Hey everyone this solved all my rattle issues! Definitely a solution. I cut the bottom washer into a C as reccemended in another post. This made it 100% easier to jam it up to the bottom bolt. I'm in love with my car again.

I'm thinking of posting a thread about solving wastegate rattle. In a series of steps. I tried everything and this was the final piece to the puzzle. Thanks eveyone!

Last edited by validated335; 06-26-2017 at 07:51 PM..
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      06-27-2017, 11:27 AM   #39
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I have done few front turbo adjustments. To access the bolts I remove the vacuum canisters. I use long extensions with pivot joints. I also use magnet pick to insert modified washers as I have found that is very difficult to get the bolts back on if completely removed. This is Balkan style adjustment
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      06-27-2017, 02:17 PM   #40
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I just took one bolt out at a time, and had no trouble, and used standard washers. fwiw
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      06-27-2017, 02:40 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YoungBlood View Post
I just took one bolt out at a time, and had no trouble, and used standard washers. fwiw
Yes me too, one bolt at a time but I found it challenging (time consuming) to get it going since don't want to risk cross threading.
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      07-03-2017, 06:27 AM   #42
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Need to give this a try as my last "rattle resolve" hope. Car boosts fine but want to get rid of the rattle fix settings (laaaag).

So what you are telling is that with only the boost canisters removed access might work out with enough extensions ?
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      07-03-2017, 07:13 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlliD View Post
Need to give this a try as my last "rattle resolve" hope. Car boosts fine but want to get rid of the rattle fix settings (laaaag).

So what you are telling is that with only the boost canisters removed access might work out with enough extensions ?
You need to remove canisters and radiator fan and that should give you enough space. Its tight...

But all you need is a 6 in extension.

It saved me from replacing turbos so give it a shot. After the adjustment, I removed my rattle fix on MHD and the stupid lag.
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      07-03-2017, 11:28 AM   #44
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what he said, it's like 5 minutes to remove both though. I went from underneath, and dropped the intercooler as well. But with a magnet washers, I did one bolt at a time (loosened all though) and was done in under and hour and a half from start to finish of pulling my car into the garage and back out
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