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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > How to buy a used E9X BMW 3 Series



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      07-23-2018, 05:48 PM   #45
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Great post!
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      07-23-2018, 05:58 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by SDPLV View Post
No M3 love...
Future thread perhaps....
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      07-23-2018, 06:19 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Germanauto View Post
Does anybody have information on iPhone USB connectivity? The adaptor used to work but doesn't anymore so I am forced to listen to the radio. It's extremely frustrating. Many times I'll drive my other car just because of this.

Not sure if this helps, but it has the Logic7 system and NO navigation.

Likely gonna get rid of this car soon. Absolute headache.
Did it work after Apple started using the lightning port? Mine never sounded right when I upgraded from a 4s to a 6... I ended up buying the tune2air Bluetooth adapter that works perfect, can fully control the latest generation iPhones with idrive.
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      07-23-2018, 06:47 PM   #48
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Great all around post.

I don't agree with the comment, "go to your local dealer, test drive the cars and find out what options you like, then go find the car cheaper somewhere else".

By doing this, you completely waste the Client Advisors time. Car sales is almost a completely commission based industry.

When you do this, you take a salesman off the floor for upwards of hours, (playing the game) that you're going to buy. He/she could lose out on a real buyer, costing them money they rely on to feed their family and pay their bills with.

Then you turn around to buy from someone who does not spend any more than 20-30 min with you.

All this to save you a couple bucks (maybe).

This is the problem with society these days. If you want to save money and not buy from a dealer, do all your research online prior to buying. Spend your time, not other peoples.

Think of it like this...
It's the same as sitting down at a restaurant, taking up a table as well as the servers time going over what's good to eat. You browse through the menu and ask questions for 30 min or so. You figure out what you like, then you get up and go down the street because you can get what you think is the same meat for a couple bucks less.

I'll let you ponder that one....
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      07-23-2018, 07:00 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Germanauto View Post
Does anybody have information on iPhone USB connectivity? The adaptor used to work but doesn't anymore so I am forced to listen to the radio. It's extremely frustrating. Many times I'll drive my other car just because of this.

Not sure if this helps, but it has the Logic7 system and NO navigation.

Likely gonna get rid of this car soon. Absolute headache.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1499808

Quote:
Originally Posted by m20e3087 View Post
Great post, and for those looking to try something German, e90 is a great start. Although I still prefer E30 as a starter but finding a decent ones these days are long gone.
The E30 is now a cult classic that now cost as much as a 335i for a clean example.

Quote:
Originally Posted by brea316 View Post
Eccentric shaft sensors that leak thru into the harness and back feed to the dme. I check the sensor on every N52 I see. Replace in conjunction with the valve cover gasket.
I just replaced my seal; Will add to the guide.

Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Adjuster View Post
it was included... it is an E9X right? it's not written ALL about the M3...
I do not know the faults of the M3 well enough to add it into the guide. The M3 could almost use it's own guide.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent - ///M View Post
Great all around post.

I don't agree with the comment, "go to your local dealer, test drive the cars and find out what options you like, then go find the car cheaper somewhere else".

By doing this, you completely waste the Client Advisors time. Car sales is almost a completely commission based industry.

When you do this, you take a salesman off the floor for upwards of hours, (playing the game) that you're going to buy. He/she could lose out on a real buyer, costing them money they rely on to feed their family and pay their bills with.

Then you turn around to buy from someone who does not spend any more than 20-30 min with you.

All this to save you a couple bucks (maybe).

This is the problem with society these days. If you want to save money and not buy from a dealer, do all your research online prior to buying. Spend your time, not other peoples.

Think of it like this...
It's the same as sitting down at a restaurant, taking up a table as well as the servers time going over what's good to eat. You browse through the menu and ask questions for 30 min or so. You figure out what you like, then you get up and go down the street because you can get what you think is the same meat for a couple bucks less.

I'll let you ponder that one....
I never wasted more than five minutes of an employee's time test driving a car. Obviously you can waste as much of their time as you want but it is very possible to be in and out without disturbing anyone. You never know if you will like a certain model of car until you test drive it.
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      07-23-2018, 07:12 PM   #50
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I’ve owned the following:

2007 E92 335i 6mt sport
2009 E92 335i 6mt m sport
2011 e90 335d m sport
2012 e92 m3 dct

I owned each for 2-3 years with the exception of the diesel which I’ve had for about 1 year. The 335i’s were the least reliable. Both had turbo failures. Both had water pump failures. Both needed carbon cleaning. Both needed full injector replacements and 02 sensors. Both had cracked valve covers. Bmw covered the turbos and injectors under CPO. I sold them both around 80k miles. My m3 was sold with only 30k miles. The only thing it ever needed was an EDC control module. The diesel has only needed a def tank so far. Fully covered by Bmw under extended warranty. Nox sensors are also covered. Both the 335i and 335d are easily tuned but the 335i wins out in that category. For daily driving the 335d is sublime with an easy 550 lb feet of torque tuned and 39-42mpg Highway. Dynamic driving still favors the 335i. Don’t sleep on the 335d. It’s very unique and Bmw has stepped up with extended warranty.

Last edited by jdub486; 07-23-2018 at 07:20 PM..
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      07-23-2018, 07:34 PM   #51
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07/23/18 update:
Added info about salvage title cars
Fixed spelling and grammar

Future Goals:
Add info about the M3
Add more info about the 335d
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      07-23-2018, 07:58 PM   #52
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I've owned 2 N54s and one N55...

I will say that the N54 is one of the most potent engines I have ever seen in my life. With that being said; they are not reliable at all... from injector, waterpump, turbo and overall electrical issues, they are not the best used pickup if you want a car that will be lower maintanence. Personally, I think the N54 is the only reason to currently pickup an E90 as otherwise the cars are currently dinosaurs with quite outdated technology and ergonomics. If you decide to go that route; prepare for a potential headache.
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      07-23-2018, 08:08 PM   #53
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Had the 3er since 2007 and even still I won't replace it. My plans to buy an m3 and keep the 328 as a daily. It's been a fantastic car and if anyone's looking to buy one and sees this let me assure you. The OP is all true. And if you keep up with maintenance it's a beast. I've had less issues with the 328 from 80k and on than I did prior to it. Everything after 80k has just been gaskets and fluid changes. Prior I had water pump, starter, window regulator etc... overall it's a lovely car the E90 really is the best 3 series overall ever made. Very refined but also still exciting to drive.
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      07-23-2018, 08:09 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBingoBalls View Post
The N54 on the other hand, I would avoid altogether. It's not a bad car but to me it's not worth the headache solely due to the HPFP. It's just another thing you have replace (there is no permanent fix AFAIK) and frankly I just wouldn't trust it going for long trips.
I loved my 335, but it seemed every other time I started it I had issues. Hpfp, injectors, coils, plugs. I don't know of a permanent fix either, I went thru 3 of em. Thank god for cpo.
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      07-23-2018, 09:16 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by figure99 View Post
Did it work after Apple started using the lightning port? Mine never sounded right when I upgraded from a 4s to a 6... I ended up buying the tune2air Bluetooth adapter that works perfect, can fully control the latest generation iPhones with idrive.
I think that could be the problem. It used to work with my old phone but when i got the iPhone 7 a couple years ago it worked at first then started crapping out.

I just looked up the adapter you mentioned...I didn't even know such technology existed (not a tech savvy Indian here). Will it work if my car doesn't have iDrive?
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      07-23-2018, 09:19 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickco43 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Germanauto View Post
Does anybody have information on iPhone USB connectivity? The adaptor used to work but doesn't anymore so I am forced to listen to the radio. It's extremely frustrating. Many times I'll drive my other car just because of this.

Not sure if this helps, but it has the Logic7 system and NO navigation.

Likely gonna get rid of this car soon. Absolute headache.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1499808

Quote:
Originally Posted by m20e3087 View Post
Great post, and for those looking to try something German, e90 is a great start. Although I still prefer E30 as a starter but finding a decent ones these days are long gone.
The E30 is now a cult classic that now cost as much as a 335i for a clean example.

Quote:
Originally Posted by brea316 View Post
Eccentric shaft sensors that leak thru into the harness and back feed to the dme. I check the sensor on every N52 I see. Replace in conjunction with the valve cover gasket.
I just replaced my seal; Will add to the guide.

Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Adjuster View Post
it was included... it is an E9X right? it's not written ALL about the M3...
I do not know the faults of the M3 well enough to add it into the guide. The M3 could almost use it's own guide.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent - ///M View Post
Great all around post.

I don't agree with the comment, "go to your local dealer, test drive the cars and find out what options you like, then go find the car cheaper somewhere else".

By doing this, you completely waste the Client Advisors time. Car sales is almost a completely commission based industry.

When you do this, you take a salesman off the floor for upwards of hours, (playing the game) that you're going to buy. He/she could lose out on a real buyer, costing them money they rely on to feed their family and pay their bills with.

Then you turn around to buy from someone who does not spend any more than 20-30 min with you.

All this to save you a couple bucks (maybe).

This is the problem with society these days. If you want to save money and not buy from a dealer, do all your research online prior to buying. Spend your time, not other peoples.

Think of it like this...
It's the same as sitting down at a restaurant, taking up a table as well as the servers time going over what's good to eat. You browse through the menu and ask questions for 30 min or so. You figure out what you like, then you get up and go down the street because you can get what you think is the same meat for a couple bucks less.

I'll let you ponder that one....
I never wasted more than five minutes of an employee's time test driving a car. Obviously you can waste as much of their time as you want but it is very possible to be in and out without disturbing anyone. You never know if you will like a certain model of car until you test drive it.
Except if they're on an "up system" & you just burned their turn....
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      07-23-2018, 09:27 PM   #57
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QUOTE=Nickco43;23480003

Only get an X-Drive car only if you NEED it. I would rather have an RWD E9X with winter tires then a X-Drive with all seasons. Anyone north of New York could benefit from X-Drive. X-Drive cars are noticeably harder and more expensive to maintain over RWD cars. ][/QUOTE]

Not true at all. The x drive is great for rain and overall traction.

Having driven a tuned 335i and a tuned 335ix with a hybrid turbo the x drive launches much harder and feels more stable when accelerating. This is with a new suspension though. With stock suspension the x drive is very floaty above 90 mph.

As long as you don't launch your x drive every time it can be pretty reliable.
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      07-23-2018, 09:38 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vampire335i View Post

Only get an X-Drive car only if you NEED it. I would rather have an RWD E9X with winter tires then a X-Drive with all seasons. Anyone north of New York could benefit from X-Drive. X-Drive cars are noticeably harder and more expensive to maintain over RWD cars. ]

Not true at all. The x drive is great for rain and overall traction.

Having driven a tuned 335i and a tuned 335ix with a hybrid turbo the x drive launches much harder and feels more stable when accelerating. This is with a new suspension though. With stock suspension the x drive is very floaty above 90 mph.

As long as you don't launch your x drive every time it can be pretty reliable.
The X-drive system itself is pretty reliable but it blocks items underneath the car that are not. If I had a tuned 335i I would want X-drive but for me and many other people's use case, X-drive is not required.
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      07-23-2018, 10:00 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bvanlieu View Post
I got a chuckle out of the 335d nugget. If it was stated to avoid due to overly complicated and fragile emissions, we all nod in unison.

The fuel mileage it returns (even with emissions, better without) is fan-freaking-tastic for what it is: a car that pulls like a V8, 2000 RPM at 80 MPH all while returning 35 MPG...yup, its a keeper.

Yes its a bit of a masochistic model

Efthreeoh, no Carmax fan? No judgement just curious. Not every one can Demuro a car there, but they seem to be popular with folks wanting a no BS experience. Their used pricing is higher then private party, but not bad compared to dealers from the searches I have run as comps (which is not very often I admit, but occasionally

- b
I bought my Z4 from CarMax. Paid about $3K too much. It's a rare car and not plentiful to find, so at the time I bought (Dec. 2015) it was what appeared to be the lowest mileage Coupe on the market that was somewhat close to me. I was willing to pay a bit over what KBB/Edmunds evaluated the price should be. I had to pay a non-refundable $350 to have it moved from Ohio to Virginia for me to look at it. That was about the same as a plane ticket and hotel stay for me to get to Ohio. So I already was $350 in the hole if I didn't like it. I trusted CarMax to be what it advertises to be, which is highly capable to evaluate a good car from a bad one, and truthful. I found them to be, with my car at least, not to be honest and expert in evaluating cars. I've posted this a few times before. They missed/did the following:

- Missed a crease in the front left fender above the headlight (they did fix that via PDR)
- Missed a low coolant level in the radiator (the low coolant light came on the 2nd day I owned it)
- Missed or hid the fact the car had a noisy throwout bearing. They argued this to the point that I spent more time arguing with them vs. the time I would spend repairing it DIY.
- Missed a mouse nest in the intake box, which had half of the engine airfilter clogged up
- Missed an almost fully-clogged cabin airfilter
- Installed or missed the fact that the battery was under sized (case-wise) and it did not clamp into place using the OE battery fastening system. Also, the battery box divider was installed incorrectly, and the battery vent (which every modern BMW has) was not installed
- Changed the oil but used the wrong aftermarket oil filter. I had to then assume they did not use the correct spec oil.

For those reasons, I think they are as much BS as any other used car dealer. They do not negotiate price based on their supposed expert car evaluation and honesty. They make it an easy purchase process, much like a new-car purchase experience (if you don't negotiate price), so people who want an easy purchase experience (and get taken advantage of) they are great. Then CarMax covers its ass by expecting the buyer to purchase additional warranty to cover shit its experts miss.

For me, never again. If they did this on my car, I can only assume they do it on other cars as well.

That's just one-half of the story. I'll not go into the post-purchase inspection (within the CarMax 5-day return policy) I went through with the local BMW dealer. I'll delve into that if you want.
Oh do tell...
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      07-23-2018, 10:02 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBingoBalls View Post
Personally, as long as any N52 3er that has proper maintenance records I have full trust and faith in. My N52 along with friends and family all had relatively low maintenance/repair costs outside of proper maintenance - the major repair being the water pump. If I needed a used car and there was a N52 3er out there that was taken care of, I would jump on it with no hesitation.

The N54 on the other hand, I would avoid altogether. It's not a bad car but to me it's not worth the headache solely due to the HPFP. It's just another thing you have replace (there is no permanent fix AFAIK) and frankly I just wouldn't trust it going for long trips.
The new hpfp's have been fine for a while. No need to worry if it's been replaced with the latest version.
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      07-23-2018, 11:48 PM   #61
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"335d not worth it" LOL

The emissions system, except for the DEF tanks, is made up of components common to almost all US Tier IV Final compliant engines.

There are reported carbon issues. But the emissions components themselves do not appear to be a significant issue. Yes there is a culture of deleting components for the sake of deleting components- but the standardized emission components are now pretty reliable across the industry.

I own a 335d as well as a 328 N52. So far, the 335d requires much less service, is waaaaay faster, and returns 8-10 more MPG across the board.

All things being equal, I'd take a used 335d over any other e90. The problem is, all things are not equal. If you want X-Drive or a manual transmission, the N57 is out.

-Mike
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      07-24-2018, 12:00 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ihbase View Post
"335d not worth it" LOL

The emissions system, except for the DEF tanks, is made up of components common to almost all US Tier IV Final compliant engines.

There are reported carbon issues. But the emissions components themselves do not appear to be a significant issue. Yes there is a culture of deleting components for the sake of deleting components- but the standardized emission components are now pretty reliable across the industry.

I own a 335d as well as a 328 N52. So far, the 335d requires much less service, is waaaaay faster, and returns 8-10 more MPG across the board.

All things being equal, I'd take a used 335d over any other e90. The problem is, all things are not equal. If you want X-Drive or a manual transmission, the N57 is out.

-Mike
I would like to find someone with a 200k 335d and ask for their ownership experience. I dismissed the 335d since the mpg in my eyes was not that good compared to a NA diesel.
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      07-24-2018, 01:21 AM   #63
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M3 >335d > all others is what I'm gathering...
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      07-24-2018, 04:10 AM   #64
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Hat's off to you! this is a great post.
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      07-24-2018, 04:30 AM   #65
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No M3 love...
When talking about the e90 M3, one would have to mention 2 parts that an owner WILL have to replace on the S65 engine. One, the throttle actuators and two the rod bearings. Both are very expensive fixes.

The throttle actuators wouldn't be that bad of a DIY for most. There's actually a DIY that just upgrades the gears inside for around $240.00. However, if that doesn't work, then you might be out $900.00 for new ones. There's actually a company, in the Detroit area, that sells refurbished ones for $360.00 each and claims they are better than factory version, brand new.

Rod bearings would be probably equivalent to changing turbos on the N54. A lot of work.... However, parts for this DIY might run you about $1,000.00 vs $2,000.00 on the N54. The other thing about rod bearings is that you can see wear in then with in 30,000 miles on the S65.
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      07-24-2018, 04:59 AM   #66
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Very nice write up. Just makes me miss my e90...
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