[apexit4]

Originally Posted by tshandonay

Surprisingly the Blackstone labs analysis looks good. At a little bit of a loss for what to do next. Drive it?

A positive oil analysis isnt necessarily an indication that everything is well with the engine. I had a few samples that I sent out that had positive results and didnt indicate that my #1 main bearing was on its way out. It ultimately required an engine swap.

I called up Blackstone about it and, from what I remember, they said that their tests only identify particles up to a certain size. I guess in my case all the copper bearing material that was being ground off was too large for their analysis to pick up on. I still find it hard to believe that along with the large chunks there weren't any small enough particles being deposited into the oil to indicate an issue. I'd have to go back through my records to see if copper levels were elevates in any way.

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by tshandonay

Motor is out and on the engine stand. I pulled the oil pan and it looks really clean...just one chuck which I think is plastic.

After some serious organizing and garage cleanup I am going to get the timing cover off first and then start inspecting bearings.

Anyone care to provide some suggestions of everything I should be proactively replacing while I have this motor out? I've never been this deep or even close so I'm open to any help.

It's been a while since I replaced my motor, but off the top of my head I'd do the following:

-Water pump
-Thermostat
-Vacuum Lines
-Inspect all rubber hoses
-Inspect all oil lines around the turbo. There's one in particular that is EXTREMELY hard to replace when the engine is in the car
-All gaskets
-Not necessary, but I replaced all my glow plugs since access was easy
-Valve cover gasket
-Also not quite necessary, but the engine mounts. I regret not doing mine Dont forget to replace the vacuum lines leading to the motor mounts

[tshandonay]

Originally Posted by apexit4

A positive oil analysis isnt necessarily an indication that everything is well with the engine. I had a few samples that I sent out that had positive results and didnt indicate that my #1 main bearing was on its way out. It ultimately required an engine swap.

I called up Blackstone about it and, from what I remember, they said that their tests only identify particles up to a certain size. I guess in my case all the copper bearing material that was being ground off was too large for their analysis to pick up on. I still find it hard to believe that along with the large chunks there weren't any small enough particles being deposited into the oil to indicate an issue. I'd have to go back through my records to see if copper levels were elevates in any way.

I had no sign of metal in the oil pan. I've got my motor out and torn down. To the point of debating if I should pull caps off the bearings. I think I found the lower part of the chain tension weak. Going to try to post a video

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by tshandonay

I had no sign of metal in the oil pan. I've got my motor out and torn down. To the point of debating if I should pull caps off the bearings. I think I found the lower part of the chain tension weak. Going to try to post a video

If you've got the engine torn down already, I'd go ahead and replace the baring caps (all of them). That way you'd get to inspect them and have price of mind that they are good.

[tshandonay]

Well, it took me awhile because I was learning as I went but I finally found the damage. You can add me to the list of spun front crank bearings. This really sucks. Any advice on next steps. Any hope for this motor or am I digging deep in the piggy bank for a swap?

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by tshandonay

Well, it took me awhile because I was learning as I went but I finally found the damage. You can add me to the list of spun front crank bearings. This really sucks. Any advice on next steps. Any hope for this motor or am I digging deep in the piggy bank for a swap?

Depends on where the damage is. If the damage was done only to the crankshaft, then you might get away with having it re-profiled and throwing in some over sized bearings. But if the spun bearing scored the block (which I assume it did), then I think you are going to have to dig deep and do a motor swap.

I went through the same thing two or so years ago, documented a good of it if you're up for some reading: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1491850

[Tambohamilton]

Bummer. Great work finding it though!

[robnitro]

Open your oil cap while running and you'll hear the knock more. It's just how the system sounds and I think it's the vacuum pump that does this noise as it did on my tdi...

[Tambohamilton]

Originally Posted by robnitro

Open your oil cap while running and you'll hear the knock more. It's just how the system sounds and I think it's the vacuum pump that does this noise as it did on my tdi...

I don't think you read the whole thread...

[tshandonay]

Maybe I'm being really naive but he crank surface doesn't look bad. Can't feel any scoring...feels completely smooth.

Any opinion on how worn these bearings look? I don't know how they should look.

[Tambohamilton]

Doesn't look good to me, but I'm have limited experience! The finish should be near mirror the whole way across.

[ranthum]

The crank should polish up ok if you can't feel the scratches. I doubt you will need oversized bearings, but check clearance.

[tshandonay]

Pulled the crank today. Lots of scoring on the front upper main cap. Does that thing come out?

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by tshandonay

Pulled the crank today. Lots of scoring on the front upper main cap. Does that thing come out?

The photos of the bearing you posted look very worn. You've gone down to the copper 100% all the way around. I dont know if its just the reflection or not, but it looks like there may be a chunk missing. Considering that the main bearing cap is work, it looks like the bearing spun.

Regarding the upper main bearing cap, unfortunately it does not come out. As far as I am aware, you have three options at this time:

1) replace the entire engine
2) laser weld some new metal on so that it can be re-profiled to stock specs
3) see if a machine shop can correct the issue. Before going down this route, check whether the oversized bearings would fit if the machine shop removes material from the bearing cap on the block.

[tshandonay]

Pretty sure I will be going with option 1. I have 0 experience building engines and don't think it would be money well spent to try to rebuild this one.

Is there much value is any parts off this motor? Hoping I can offset the cost of the replacement a little. The timing of this deal is pretty bad.

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by tshandonay

Pretty sure I will be going with option 1. I have 0 experience building engines and don't think it would be money well spent to try to rebuild this one.

Is there much value is any parts off this motor? Hoping I can offset the cost of the replacement a little. The timing of this deal is pretty bad.

Yeah, I went with option 1 myself because there was no guarantee that the other two options would be 100% reliable.

I parted out my old engine after doing the swap. But that's mainly because the "new" one came mostly complete with an intake, injectors, EGR, valve cover, etc. I sold off some of the internal parts as well like connecting rods and one of the camshafts. I still need to take the head and bare block to the recyclers though. They're taking up space and a bit on the heavy side (so there's some money to be made there).

[Dcage]

mine sounds the same and i have a 335i