[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by sniffer

When I bought the car the steering wheel was way off centre.

I had the alignment checked and modified so it was within parameters, however the wheel was still very slightly off centre when this work was complete. This was done by BMW main dealers on a Hunter KDS system and then also by someone else.

Rather than take it back to the place that did the final alignment, which is some distance from me, I have simply moved both wheels in sync with each other to the right very slightly. I have therefore not changed any of the aligment, just simply altered the steering wheel centre position in relation to both front wheels.

Hmm. Ok. This looks too complicated for me to do. But glad you fixed your problem. I have to wait another month to check this out because I finals and stuff. I also have a SES light that bothers me as well but it's for a loose gas cap.

[DJKhan85]

So your steering wheel was slightly right hand down so you adjusted the driver side wheel. I have the opposite of you with left hand down. So that means I should adjust the pasenger side right?

[sniffer]

Originally Posted by DJKhan85

So your steering wheel was slightly right hand down so you adjusted the driver side wheel. I have the opposite of you with left hand down. So that means I should adjust the pasenger side right?

Firstly, I am in the UK, so my car is RHD. I therefore tried to refer to everything within the thread as right and left as opposed to driver or passenger.

I adjusted and you should adjust BOTH wheels. If you only adjust one wheel you will be changing the alignment, specifically the toe.

As you said, my car was RH down so I effectively needed to make both front wheels be more to the right when the steering wheel was straight ahead.

To achieve this, I did up, by turning clockwise the LHS track rod / tie rod, this meant there was less thread this side, effectively shortening the track rod / tie rod.

For the RHS, I did the opposite, undoing, by turning anticlockwise the RHS track rod / tie rod, meaning there was more thread this side, effectively lengthening the track rod / tie rod.

Overall, I probably added altered both of them by around 1/4 turn.

[MalM3]

pic 1 and pic 12 have exactly the same time in the clock display

either you´re very fast, or the test drive took you back in time.. 88mph perhaps

[sniffer]

Originally Posted by Mallard

pic 1 and pic 12 have exactly the same time in the clock display

either you´re very fast, or the test drive took you back in time.. 88mph perhaps

Well spotted. Yes, I did those two pics at the end. . .I aligned the wheel as it was before at straight ahead just to give people an idea of how much adjustment is needed underneath to fix an amount of misalignment at the wheel.

[MalM3]

ahaa

[DJKhan85]

Originally Posted by sniffer

Firstly, I am in the UK, so my car is RHD. I therefore tried to refer to everything within the thread as right and left as opposed to driver or passenger.

I adjusted and you should adjust BOTH wheels. If you only adjust one wheel you will be changing the alignment, specifically the toe.

As you said, my car was RH down so I effectively needed to make both front wheels be more to the right when the steering wheel was straight ahead.

To achieve this, I did up, by turning clockwise the LHS track rod / tie rod, this meant there was less thread this side, effectively shortening the track rod / tie rod.

For the RHS, I did the opposite, undoing, by turning anticlockwise the RHS track rod / tie rod, meaning there was more thread this side, effectively lengthening the track rod / tie rod.

Overall, I probably added altered both of them by around 1/4 turn.

I fully understand what you're saying now that I've had a chance to review the suspension today. My center is off just a hair but enought o feel that somethings wrong. I think I'm going to leave it for now and see if I adjust to it. I will only screw things up further if I attempt this now

[BimmerGuyFL]

bump

[GenePoole]

Assuming your car is aligned correctly, you want the total "toe" to remain the same so any adjustment to the toe on one side must be compensated by the opposite amount on the other side.

[BimmerGuyFL]

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[sniffer]

Originally Posted by BimmerGuyFL

So if I turn the front left tie round 1/8 forward, do I need to turn the front right tie rod 1/8 backwards?

If you are unsure, don't do it.

I think when you look under the car, it should be clearer.

In my instance, the wheel was slightly right hand down. I therefore needed to make the right tie rod longer and the left tie rod shorter.

Thie moved both wheels slightly to the right in relation to the steering wheel.

I therefore turned the right tie rod anti clockwise and the left tie rod clockwise.

This meant that in both instances, if I had the spanner on the tie rod, with the handle pointing towards the front of the car, I pulled it downwards.

[TheRox]

1. How do we determine which direction to turn the tie rods?

2. Do I have to adjust both L and R wheels? or can I just adjust the tie rod on one of the wheels?

3. Do my wheels have to be up in the air (Ie. should I use my jack stands?) I don't get how you used bricks.

My dealer couldn't get this right after 3 tries, they gave up. Pathetic.

[BimmerGuyFL]

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[TheRox]

Originally Posted by BimmerGuyFL

Just to clarify, cause your statement says one tie rod clockwise and the other anti clock wise, then you say the spanner on the tie rod, with the handle pointing towards the front of the car, I pulled it downwards on both sides would mean turning the tie rods in the same direction? Which is correct?

He is correct

In both instances, the tie rods will be 1. extending the right tie rod, 2. shortening the left tie rod...because you're on opposite sides

[BimmerGuyFL]

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[GenePoole]

Take a look at this simple representation:



It should be obvious how the adjustments need to be done. If it isn't obvious, then, frankly, you don't have any business trying to do this yourself.

[BimmerGuyFL]

bump

[rce90]

[M3 Eater]

I recently had my car alighned for good measure. They said my right rear was out and they showed me how they fixed it. When i left the shop wheel was dead center. A day later the car does not pull but the wheel was off center. I asked that they do it again, again wheel was dead center, a day later off to the right again. Ie IF I HOLD THE WHEEL PERFECTLY STRAIGHT, THEN THE CAR TRACKS EVER SO SLIGHTLY TO THE RIGHT AGAIN.
I was thinking that something may be loose besides the bolts that they use to make adjustments. I went under that car, removed the wheel and tightened down the bolts that hold the strut in place 18 mm. One side was kinda loose. What would allow an aligned car with a straight wheel slide out to the same place over and over. Tires are new with 4K on them.

[Donger Kim]

Originally Posted by TheRox

1. How do we determine which direction to turn the tie rods?

2. Do I have to adjust both L and R wheels? or can I just adjust the tie rod on one of the wheels?

3. Do my wheels have to be up in the air (Ie. should I use my jack stands?) I don't get how you used bricks.

My dealer couldn't get this right after 3 tries, they gave up. Pathetic.

1)I beliehe someone posted this here, but you would have to look at the threads and see if the outter tie rod is pusshing the leading edge of thr wheel out= toe out.

2) If your alignment is within spec and steering wheel is not tracking totally straight, then yes.

3)You cannot do an alignment while the suspension is not settled. So no, do not jack your car up.

[Emilime75]

I'm willing to bet the OP has figured this out in the 8 years that have gone by.

For anyone else wondering, the proper alignment procedure includes centering the steering wheel and either using a tool to keep it there, or having someone sit in the car and holding it there. That's the only way to adjust toe and have your steering wheel be centered. You absolutely do not mess with the tie rods after the alignment.

[Donger Kim]

Originally Posted by Emilime75

I'm willing to bet the OP has figured this out in the 8 years that have gone by.

For anyone else wondering, the proper alignment procedure includes centering the steering wheel and either using a tool to keep it there, or having someone sit in the car and holding it there. That's the only way to adjust toe and have your steering wheel be centered. You absolutely do not mess with the tie rods after the alignment.

Shit i didnt see the date lol. I was searching for a specific issue myself and started reading this thread...