[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by SUperfunkMF

Will do later today.

It was more of a sludge that once I whiped off saw the stain underneath.

Thanks

Keep us posted if that works out for you.

Originally Posted by Chris J

Im having a lot of problems with 106ff and swirls. Can someone please help me out with this. I have made a thread about it also. Im either not fully removing the swirls or im introducing more swirls. Which they say its not supposed to do. Am I not putting enough pressure? How many passes should I being doing if polishing after S.I.P. I really would like to get this problem solved quickly. My S.i.p. step is leaving quite a lot of swirls and im not sure if that is supposed to happen.

Chris, after reading your posts, I'm not sure I understand what you are calling "swirls". Can you take some pictures of the swirls you're referring to? Do you mean micro-marring or hologramming instead perhaps? If there are literally swirls there, then chances are you didn't remove them in the first place and you aren't working the polishes correctly. Neither SIP or PO106FF will create swirls (in the literal sense) when used properly. If you are creating swirl marks, then something is probably contaminated like your pad, towel, etc. Take some pictures of your problem your having and I'm sure we'll be able to assess the problem better.

Originally Posted by SolidSnake2634

hi, i just got interested into detailing. im planning on detailing a friend's jet black e90. it'll be my first time detailing. can you give me some suggestions on what Chemical Guys products to buy? thanks.

AoshichanX offered some good advice on which Chemical Guy's products to start with. If you are looking for polishes, I'd recommend the Menzerna line of products. If you're looking for some wheel & tire care, their Citrus Wheel Cleaner works well and you can dress the tires with their V.R.P. Dressing. For interiors, Fabric Clean works great on carpet and upholstery and you can use the V.R.P. as your interior dressing as well.

If you have any specific questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

[Chris J]

George, Sorry for not being more specific. I believe it is micro marring being left behind from the buffer. It is the patterns of buffing that are still showing after 106ff. Im not sure if it is not completely removing them or if 106ff is introducing more into the paint. I see on the forum that people go from s.i.p. to 106ff all the time and dont have the same problems that I am having. The car I did was a porsche boxter. (black) the marring wasnt completely noticeable but at the right angle you could still see them coming through. So basically im not sure if its was picus says that i need to include an intermediate polishing step or maybe there is just something wrong with the patterns im buffing, or perhaps the speed or the amount of polish im using. I know that there are a lot of variables. Sorry I dont have any pictures of it. But most likely I would say its marring from the buffer not swirls from washing.

[SolidSnake2634]

Originally Posted by AoshichanX

I quote myself from the PM I sent you in June when you asked me the exact same question. In this case, the does not even apply to you. The does not apply to you either. You are truly something else. We need a "didn't I already answer your question before, and didn't you make two threads about this already?" smilie.

thanks for posting that johnson. i deleted your pm by accident when i cleaned out my inbox :/ thats why i posted that again. i'm truly something else? what?. i've read through a lotta of detailing threads but i still didn't understand because of all those abbreviations and such. and there's way too many products to use in different processes. isn't it all about preference? i was just trying to get a taste of what different people use in their detailing process.
and i didn't remember that i posted any threads about this. sry.

[SpecC]

Originally Posted by SolidSnake2634

thanks for posting that johnson. i deleted your pm by accident when i cleaned out my inbox :/ thats why i posted that again. i'm truly something else? what?. i've read through a lotta of detailing threads but i still didn't understand because of all those abbreviations and such. and there's way too many products to use in different processes. isn't it all about preference? i was just trying to get a taste of what different people use in their detailing process.
and i didn't remember that i posted any threads about this. sry.

If you had done that, it probably would've been easier to ask AoshichanX first if he had deleted it from his sent items part yet. In which case, he obviously hasn't yet.

I didn't understand any of it either when I began, but you slowly get it as you start USING products. I had been reading up on detailing for probably a month before I got myself started and blasting AoshichanX with questions. Also, you could have the best products in the world, but if you don't know how to use them, then there's no point in having those products. I would read up more on the processes if I were you. Detailed Image has a great guide to detailing that you should check out here.

http://www.detailedimage.com/guides.php

Detailing is about preference, but if you don't start trying things, then you'll never even start. Sure you can start out by copying people (as I did), but you slowly grasp the idea that there is no perfect combination of products.

[SolidSnake2634]

Originally Posted by SpecC

If you had done that, it probably would've been easier to ask AoshichanX first if he had deleted it from his sent items part yet. In which case, he obviously hasn't yet.

I didn't understand any of it either when I began, but you slowly get it as you start USING products. I had been reading up on detailing for probably a month before I got myself started and blasting AoshichanX with questions. Also, you could have the best products in the world, but if you don't know how to use them, then there's no point in having those products. I would read up more on the processes if I were you. Detailed Image has a great guide to detailing that you should check out here.

http://www.detailedimage.com/guides.php

Detailing is about preference, but if you don't start trying things, then you'll never even start. Sure you can start out by copying people (as I did), but you slowly grasp the idea that there is no perfect combination of products.

thanks ben. yeah, i shoulda asked Johnson first, but i didn't think of that haha. but yea, i've been spending these couple days reading up on processes of detailing and all these detailing threads. i've also been reading on detailedimage.com. getting ready to buy some products soon.
i've been washing/waxing cars for a long time, so i guess i have an idea on how waxing works and such, but im just getting into the specifics now(such as clay and sealants and polish).

thanks for the suggestions

i guess over time i could develop my own process/combinations

[UncleWede]

Is it OK to spritz a polishing pad and/or section I started some polish on with water, or does that require a QD spritz? I used the H2O route and it seemed a bit more difficult to wipe down the section afterwards.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Chris J

George, Sorry for not being more specific. I believe it is micro marring being left behind from the buffer. It is the patterns of buffing that are still showing after 106ff. Im not sure if it is not completely removing them or if 106ff is introducing more into the paint. I see on the forum that people go from s.i.p. to 106ff all the time and dont have the same problems that I am having. The car I did was a porsche boxter. (black) the marring wasnt completely noticeable but at the right angle you could still see them coming through. So basically im not sure if its was picus says that i need to include an intermediate polishing step or maybe there is just something wrong with the patterns im buffing, or perhaps the speed or the amount of polish im using. I know that there are a lot of variables. Sorry I dont have any pictures of it. But most likely I would say its marring from the buffer not swirls from washing.

Makes more sense now. Honestly, without seeing you in action, there are so many variables, it's difficult to narrow things down. You're best bet is to continue to practice and expiriment with different polish and pad combo's, speed settings, size of working area, etc. The worst part is, what might work (or not work) on the Porsche could be totally different than on a BMW. The joys of detailing!

Originally Posted by SolidSnake2634

i guess over time i could develop my own process/combinations

That's basically the best thing you do. Once you understand the entire detailing process, which broken down simply is remove contamination, remove imperfections, then protect (almost on any surface), then you can choose what products you think will work best for you. No matter who you talk to, their opinion is going to vary from the next guy. The best thing to do is just get out there and try some products and read the forums and detailing websites. There are some favorites obviously, but what works for 1 detailer doesn't always work for another.

If you have any specific questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

Originally Posted by UncleWede

Is it OK to spritz a polishing pad and/or section I started some polish on with water, or does that require a QD spritz? I used the H2O route and it seemed a bit more difficult to wipe down the section afterwards.

Water is the preferred pad lubricant by many. Some polishes don't react well with certain quick detailers. I usually use distilled water if I prime the pad. You really only want a fine mist, you want to avoid saturating the pad. Lately, I haven't even been priming my pads.

George

[Dark_Sub_Rosa]

I'm sure this might have been covered so far but while in the process of trying to find a solution I thought I would ask if anyone has had any success with any product that keeps bug guts from etching into the clear coat. I have zaino on the car right now but a bug splatter etched its way into my clear coat after only one night when I went to clean the car. I was hoping the zaino would help prevent this.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Dark_Sub_Rosa

I'm sure this might have been covered so far but while in the process of trying to find a solution I thought I would ask if anyone has had any success with any product that keeps bug guts from etching into the clear coat. I have zaino on the car right now but a bug splatter etched its way into my clear coat after only one night when I went to clean the car. I was hoping the zaino would help prevent this.

Most of the time it's how fast your able to get to remove them. The longer the bugs sit on your paint with their acidic guts, the higher the chance of it etching into the paint. You can throw a layer of carnauba wax on top of Zaino for an extra barrier of protection, however that will just buy you a little more time. I'd recommend keeping a bottle of your favorite quick detailer and a microfiber towel in your glove box and giving your car a quick inspection / wipe down after a drive. Hope that helps.

George

[Dark_Sub_Rosa]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Most of the time it's how fast your able to get to remove them. The longer the bugs sit on your paint with their acidic guts, the higher the chance of it etching into the paint. You can throw a layer of carnauba wax on top of Zaino for an extra barrier of protection, however that will just buy you a little more time. I'd recommend keeping a bottle of your favorite quick detailer and a microfiber towel in your glove box and giving your car a quick inspection / wipe down after a drive. Hope that helps.

George

I normally try to wash them off daily but I guess there isn't much to do to prevent it if they sit much. I'll add some more wax this weekend to help delay the inevitable I guess. Thanks for the quick response!

[Gig103]

Hi, I have two questions about the PC 7424, which I'm thinking of buying.

1. In the case of my new BMW, I only really need to fix a few areas. Should I still polish the whole car?

2. My wife's car (99 Honda) is beat up pretty bad. Is the PC strong enough for compounding? If not, what's the strongest stuff that would be recommended for heavier paint correction?
2a. Should I just not try this one, since I'm a beginner?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Dark_Sub_Rosa

I normally try to wash them off daily but I guess there isn't much to do to prevent it if they sit much. I'll add some more wax this weekend to help delay the inevitable I guess. Thanks for the quick response!

Unfortunately certain things like bug splatter, bird droppings, sap, etc. there's no best answer other than to always have a durable coat(s) of sealant and/or wax.

Originally Posted by Gig103

Hi, I have two questions about the PC 7424, which I'm thinking of buying.

1. In the case of my new BMW, I only really need to fix a few areas. Should I still polish the whole car?

2. My wife's car (99 Honda) is beat up pretty bad. Is the PC strong enough for compounding? If not, what's the strongest stuff that would be recommended for heavier paint correction?
2a. Should I just not try this one, since I'm a beginner?

1. I usually recommend applying the finishing polish across the entire car for a more uniform look. If you're spot treating a scratch or some heavier swirls with a more aggressive polish / pad combination than your finishing polish, then you can spot treat those areas.

2. The PC is certainly capable of compounding, it may just take a lot more time than a more powerful machine. You could look into the Flex XC3401VRG for a more powerful alternative than the PC but is still safe for beginner use. It will be able to correct twice as many imperfections in half the time compared to the PC. The time and energy saved pays for itself with a couple uses, especially on a neglected vehicle.

For neglected vehicles, you'll often want to turn to a 2 step polish combo, or possibly even a 3 step. I'd recommend using the Menzerna line of polishes.

If you take the time to research online the proper ways to work either the PC or Flex, there is very little risk to a first time user. You may not get 100% of the results you're looking for the first time around, but the more you use the machine, the better your results will be.

If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

[Brunotheboxer]

Hi. Just wanted to ask you a quick one. I wash my car about every one to two weeks and wax it every six months and this works for me as the car is garaged a lot..

Also my car is TiAg and my question is what wax do you think would be best for me for ease of use and visibility? The waxes I have tried are all very light and difficult to see on my light paint color when applying them. I usually use (dont laugh) black magic liquid wax and it lasts for the six months with no problem. I just have a little trouble seeing it but you should see the way my car still beads up and I waxed it in April. People that see my car think that I wax it like every month. thanks.

ps i only hand wax and am happy with that.

[UncleWede]

I have arctic, so I'm close on color. I always have to look at an angle,catching the light down the length of the panel to make sure everything comes off after applying. Lots of time looking straight down I thought it was cleaned off, only to find streaks from a different angle.

If you're happy with the look/protection of the black magic, keep with it.

[Dark_Sub_Rosa]

Originally Posted by Brunotheboxer

Hi. Just wanted to ask you a quick one. I wash my car about every one to two weeks and wax it every six months and this works for me as the car is garaged a lot..

Also my car is TiAg and my question is what wax do you think would be best for me for ease of use and visibility? The waxes I have tried are all very light and difficult to see on my light paint color when applying them. I usually use (dont laugh) black magic liquid wax and it lasts for the six months with no problem. I just have a little trouble seeing it but you should see the way my car still beads up and I waxed it in April. People that see my car think that I wax it like every month. thanks.

ps i only hand wax and am happy with that.

Try waxing white. I always go over the entire car with detailer afterwards to ensure that I got all the wax off and to give it that extra little protection and shine.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Brunotheboxer

Hi. Just wanted to ask you a quick one. I wash my car about every one to two weeks and wax it every six months and this works for me as the car is garaged a lot..

Also my car is TiAg and my question is what wax do you think would be best for me for ease of use and visibility? The waxes I have tried are all very light and difficult to see on my light paint color when applying them. I usually use (dont laugh) black magic liquid wax and it lasts for the six months with no problem. I just have a little trouble seeing it but you should see the way my car still beads up and I waxed it in April. People that see my car think that I wax it like every month. thanks.

ps i only hand wax and am happy with that.

Beading isn't always the best indicator of having protection still on the paint. My mom hasn't protected her car since she owned it (3 years now), and when it rains, it looks like it's beading. I would be willing to bet that the wax (if it's a carnauba wax) isn't offering protection after six months.

Colored waxes may show up if you gob product on, but that is not the proper way to apply a wax. For example, the Natty's Blue and Natty's Red we sell are colored, but as you apply them, the product on the paint is clear to hazy in color, not blue or red. The best thing you can do if your having problems seeing the wax on or off your car is to invest in better lighting. Proper lighting is critical to any detailing enthusiast, especially when it comes to correcting paint imperfections, but it also applies to scenarios like this.

In any event, if you're pleased with the results of the Black Magic, I'd stick too it.

Originally Posted by UncleWede

If you're happy with the look/protection of the black magic, keep with it.

Well said! Too many enthusiasts get caught up into trying EVERY product available that they've heard so-and-so likes. While this is fun (and costly), if you find a product that works best for your car and your needs, stick to it. The best thing you can do is master the proper technique and understand that prep work (contamination removal and imperfection removal) are the backbone of any detail and account for 90% of the results.

George

[Brunotheboxer]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Beading isn't always the best indicator of having protection still on the paint. My mom hasn't protected her car since she owned it (3 years now), and when it rains, it looks like it's beading. I would be willing to bet that the wax (if it's a carnauba wax) isn't offering protection after six months.

Colored waxes may show up if you gob product on, but that is not the proper way to apply a wax. For example, the Natty's Blue and Natty's Red we sell are colored, but as you apply them, the product on the paint is clear to hazy in color, not blue or red. The best thing you can do if your having problems seeing the wax on or off your car is to invest in better lighting. Proper lighting is critical to any detailing enthusiast, especially when it comes to correcting paint imperfections, but it also applies to scenarios like this.

In any event, if you're pleased with the results of the Black Magic, I'd stick too it.



Well said! Too many enthusiasts get caught up into trying EVERY product available that they've heard so-and-so likes. While this is fun (and costly), if you find a product that works best for your car and your needs, stick to it. The best thing you can do is master the proper technique and understand that prep work (contamination removal and imperfection removal) are the backbone of any detail and account for 90% of the results.

George

thanks for the reply George.I usually wax outdoors on overcast days so thats probably why its so hard to see the wax.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Brunotheboxer

thanks for the reply George.I usually wax outdoors on overcast days so thats probably why its so hard to see the wax.

Makes more sense now. Certain light can be very deceiving when it comes to detailing, and being outside with overcast can often be difficult. For $30, this is a good investment to spot wax, swirls, and other imperfections when working in poorly lit areas: Brinkmann Dual Xenon Light. There's also a halogen one for about half the price.

George

[Brunotheboxer]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Makes more sense now. Certain light can be very deceiving when it comes to detailing, and being outside with overcast can often be difficult. For $30, this is a good investment to spot wax, swirls, and other imperfections when working in poorly lit areas: Brinkmann Dual Xenon Light. There's also a halogen one for about half the price.

George

thank you George. I do have difficulty seeing the clear wax on overcast grey days because my car is silver.. i will look into this light.

[UncleWede]

How do I select the RPM setting on the Flex? I started to think that I wanted the lower RPMs when I first start, then speed up as I get near the end. Yes, I'm waiting on the SIP and Glaze to come, but in the mean time I did the roof of my truck. I started with the 106 and orange pad at ~2500, 4 passes each direction, spritz of water on the pad, then cranked it up to ~4500 and did four more each direction, the last two with just the pressure of the Flex.
I didn't get ALL the little spiders off, but things was a shiny!!!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by UncleWede

How do I select the RPM setting on the Flex? I started to think that I wanted the lower RPMs when I first start, then speed up as I get near the end. Yes, I'm waiting on the SIP and Glaze to come, but in the mean time I did the roof of my truck. I started with the 106 and orange pad at ~2500, 4 passes each direction, spritz of water on the pad, then cranked it up to ~4500 and did four more each direction, the last two with just the pressure of the Flex.
I didn't get ALL the little spiders off, but things was a shiny!!!

The RPM's increase as you increase the OPM's. Here's a quick chart explaining each speed setting along with RPM's and OPM's.



If you only ended up at speed 2.5 or so, you certainly have a lot more potential out of your buffer. I usually recommend a minimum speed of setting 4 and moving to 5 and 6 if needed.

Let me know if that chart clears things up for you.

George

[l8apexer]

What an informative thread! I'm just beginning to dig in to learn more about detailing and am happy to have found this medium - a big to Detailed Image. In the past, I've used more mainstream options such as Griots and 3M hand glaze with Blitz carnauba. However, I'm interested in more professional results and stepping up to a polish/sealant/wax process -- would appreciate any initial insight on products to get started (just placed an initial order with Detailed Image for proper wash and drying items). That said, would really appreciate insight on the following:

- I'd like to hang onto the Griots buffer, for the time being anyway - will the pads offered by DI work for this machine?
- What regimine and products would you recommend for paint treatment as a starting point? I recently clayed and waxed my 2008 sparkling graphite E90 with existing Griots products; however, under florescent lighting I still see that there are some slight swirls. My intent would be to rework the car, trying newly recommended products/processes around the end of the summer prior to the winter season.
- What product do you recommend for use on leatherette interiors?
- What is your recommendation for dusting (or is it advised) between car washes (e.g. what is your opinion of a microfiber or california style duster)?

Thanks in advance for your time!