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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY: E90 Oil Pan Gasket and Subframe Drop



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      12-04-2019, 10:54 AM   #287
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Thanks, I appreciate that.

I guess what I was asking is why your mechanic didn’t seem to think replacing the whole pipe would be a big deal. Doesn’t it require removing the intake? Or is there another way to get there that I’m missing? (does anyone know if it might be possible just by removing the air filter housing?)



...

As for my leak I left the car in my folks’ garage for the week. In some instances I was hesitant to torque the pan bolts the full 90 past 8nm. I’ll go back next weekend and try re-torquing. I did use some Permatex black on the pan-to-gasket surface — does anyone know how that might affect the amount of torque needed to get a full seal? Perhaps I should’ve waited longer before filling the engine with oil?
You can replace the oil return hose without removing the manifold. On a lift it is easy. On jackstands, a little more difficult.

The hose comes off the bottom of the CCV can. If you remove the guard plate covering the fuel lines it gives you plenty of room to work.
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      12-06-2019, 08:21 AM   #288
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Originally Posted by 850CSi View Post
Thanks, I appreciate that.
As for my leak I left the car in my folks’ garage for the week. In some instances I was hesitant to torque the pan bolts the full 90 past 8nm. I’ll go back next weekend and try re-torquing. I did use some Permatex black on the pan-to-gasket surface — does anyone know how that might affect the amount of torque needed to get a full seal? Perhaps I should’ve waited longer before filling the engine with oil?
I meant to double check those torque values in my Bentley manual. Assuming that 8nm plus 90 degrees is correct, I would go ahead and tighten to that spec assuming I had confidence in my torque wrench. It might be worthwhile to see if you can borrow a high quality one if you don't own one. The reason I'd go ahead and tighten to full spec is because I've read on here somewhere that the bolt stretches slightly when you tighten it up. I assume that's a necessary part of making sure the bolt stays in place. As long as the Permatex didn't squish into the holes in the block, it shouldn't have any effect on the torquing of the bolts. That said, if you've used Locktite blue, it might not be that critical anyway. In the interest of disclosure, I am not an engineer (undergrad in Biochem) and this is all merely speculation.

I guess you could weigh the downsides of not having a fully tightened bolt (possible leaking) versus possibly having to tow the car to a shop and having them extract a broken bolt.
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      12-10-2019, 12:23 AM   #289
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Thanks guys. I went ahead and torqued the bolts a bit more in that lower rear corner. I found that I probably applied a little too much permatex to that part of the gasket, and there was just a tiny bit of oil seeping through.

With that said, I think most of the oil I saw on the ground wasn't coming from within the pan but rather from a spill I was filling the car back up -- I thought I had gotten it all but I noticed that a decent amount had dripped onto the exhaust, which was confirmed when I held my breath and started the engine, which worked fine!

So the good news is I think I solved (or at least reduced by an order of magnitude) my oil leak.

The bad news is that while it feels a bit smoother with the new mounts there is still a lot of vibration (and no codes that would suggest anything amiss), so now to figure out the culprit there... My crank pulley does look pretty awful so maybe that's part of the equation.
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      12-10-2019, 12:30 AM   #290
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One suggestion for anyone that is going to do this job... (again from a noob DIYer and it shows)

I know from reading through the thread that at least one other individual used ramps. I did it on my Kwik-Lift. But this job is probably much easier if the front suspension is not bearing any weight. Once unbolted, my subframe did drop enough to do the job, and I was able to create enough room to get the pan out & back in by using my engine hoist to lift up the engine substantially, but things got a bit hairy from there when we realized that was lifting the front part of the car up with it, and pushing the wheels forward (the car drives fine but I was left wondering if I damaged my suspension). It was also a struggle to get the subframe back up and in place when I was finished.

If you're like me and don't like working under jack stands (and don't have access to another kind of lift), I would suggest just biting the bullet and paying to get the job done.
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      12-10-2019, 08:43 AM   #291
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 850CSi View Post
One suggestion for anyone that is going to do this job... (again from a noob DIYer and it shows)

I know from reading through the thread that at least one other individual used ramps. I did it on my Kwik-Lift. But this job is probably much easier if the front suspension is not bearing any weight. Once unbolted, my subframe did drop enough to do the job, and I was able to create enough room to get the pan out & back in by using my engine hoist to lift up the engine substantially, but things got a bit hairy from there when we realized that was lifting the front part of the car up with it, and pushing the wheels forward (the car drives fine but I was left wondering if I damaged my suspension). It was also a struggle to get the subframe back up and in place when I was finished.

If you're like me and don't like working under jack stands (and don't have access to another kind of lift), I would suggest just biting the bullet and paying to get the job done.
Congratulations!

Also, I think that's good advice. At the time, all I had were my dad's metal Habor Freight ramps. So I had to do what some other fellow in this thread did and back up on those ramps. I used jack stands for the front. Since this was my first ever project I was a little claustrophobic. So I stacked some 8" x 8" PT beams under the car and then add a couple pieces of 2" x 10" wood I had around so that they were almost touching the frame just back of the jack stands. This definitively gave me more confidence to crawl under there and do the job.

I wish I knew how to share photos on here because I took a couple "beneath the block" selfies.

Last edited by Pohsib; 12-10-2019 at 08:58 AM..
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      Today, 05:55 AM   #292
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 850CSi View Post
Thanks guys. I went ahead and torqued the bolts a bit more in that lower rear corner. I found that I probably applied a little too much permatex to that part of the gasket, and there was just a tiny bit of oil seeping through.

With that said, I think most of the oil I saw on the ground wasn't coming from within the pan but rather from a spill I was filling the car back up -- I thought I had gotten it all but I noticed that a decent amount had dripped onto the exhaust, which was confirmed when I held my breath and started the engine, which worked fine!

So the good news is I think I solved (or at least reduced by an order of magnitude) my oil leak.

The bad news is that while it feels a bit smoother with the new mounts there is still a lot of vibration (and no codes that would suggest anything amiss), so now to figure out the culprit there... My crank pulley does look pretty awful so maybe that's part of the equation.
Been down that road with the harmonic balancer. It's probably your dual mass flywheel starting to go out.
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