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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY: E90 Oil Pan Gasket and Subframe Drop



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      11-24-2019, 11:33 AM   #265
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Word of advice — don’t be as dumb as me. Was trying to get the tow hook in as far as it’ll go and didn’t notice I was digging into the head(!)... think I took off a pretty small part of it but the tow hook design is a little awkward for this area.
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      11-24-2019, 01:43 PM   #266
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Clean it up with brake cleaner spray after an oil change. A lot of times oil left over in the car tray from oil changes will mess up the whole car.

Clean it up and drive around and then check again. It might not even be the oil pan gasket.
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      11-24-2019, 02:47 PM   #267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soravia View Post
Clean it up with brake cleaner spray after an oil change. A lot of times oil left over in the car tray from oil changes will mess up the whole car.

Clean it up and drive around and then check again. It might not even be the oil pan gasket.
Car has been sitting for more than a week and it’s still dripping oil at a pretty significant rate & all of the pan bolts on the passenger side (and that half of the pan) are wet.

I’m relatively new to DIYing and not great at detecting leaks (and I think the VCG is ALSO leaking) but oil pan seems like a safe bet to me? Can’t think of anything else that would present in this way?
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      11-28-2019, 07:37 PM   #268
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Thanks for the DIY!

The replacement went smoothly.
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      11-30-2019, 07:16 AM   #269
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How to determine oil pan type?

I read this whole thread and took some notes. I'm still confused about the steel and aluminum oil pans. How do I determine which one I have? The torque specs are different for each?

My oil pan is black. 2008 e92 n52k 6MT not sure if magnetic.
My brother's oil pan is silver 2009 e93 n51 6MT not magnetic.

Anyone know if the e93 will have any significant differences with the extra support rods under the car?

Thanks!
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      11-30-2019, 06:36 PM   #270
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This oil return line is going to cause me to have an aneurysm. I have tried everything proposed here and it will not budge.
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      11-30-2019, 08:18 PM   #271
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So, I broke the connector itself. And even after I broke the connector, it still wouldn’t come loose! I finally got it off ... by breaking it some more.

I assume I’m taking off the intake manifold now to replace that line? Guess I can do my 3 stage conversion now...

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Originally Posted by Pohsib View Post
Incidentally I spoke to my mechanic and he said it actually it isn’t a big deal to replace that pipe anyway.
Anyone have any ideas what he was referring to here?

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      12-01-2019, 12:42 AM   #272
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This isn’t a high pressure linkage of any sort is it? Any reason why I can’t just wrap it in silicone tape as a temp fix until I get around to the manifold?
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      12-01-2019, 07:37 AM   #273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by profenx View Post
I read this whole thread and took some notes. I'm still confused about the steel and aluminum oil pans. How do I determine which one I have? The torque specs are different for each?

My oil pan is black. 2008 e92 n52k 6MT not sure if magnetic.
My brother's oil pan is silver 2009 e93 n51 6MT not magnetic.

Anyone know if the e93 will have any significant differences with the extra support rods under the car?

Thanks!
Black = steel pan
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      12-01-2019, 10:42 AM   #274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by profenx View Post
I read this whole thread and took some notes. I'm still confused about the steel and aluminum oil pans. How do I determine which one I have? The torque specs are different for each?

My oil pan is black. 2008 e92 n52k 6MT not sure if magnetic.
My brother's oil pan is silver 2009 e93 n51 6MT not magnetic.

Anyone know if the e93 will have any significant differences with the extra support rods under the car?

Thanks!
It's not possible for your bother's E93 to have manual transmission and an aluminum oil pan; unless it was converted. For the E9X, all N51/N52 cars with a manual transmission have a black, steel oil pan.
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      12-01-2019, 10:44 AM   #275
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Originally Posted by 850CSi View Post
This isn’t a high pressure linkage of any sort is it? Any reason why I can’t just wrap it in silicone tape as a temp fix until I get around to the manifold?
You have to get a good air seal on that hose or the engine will lose vacuum and run like crap. How broken is the end of the hose that slips over the oil pan pipe?
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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      12-01-2019, 11:30 AM   #276
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So... anyone have any idea where this might have come from?

Found in oil pan.
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      12-01-2019, 11:32 AM   #277
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Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
You have to get a good air seal on that hose or the engine will lose vacuum and run like crap. How broken is the end of the hose that slips over the oil pan pipe?
I probably broke off about half of the bell connector. I’m guessing it’ll still click into place but as you say no idea if that’ll be enough.
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      12-01-2019, 01:08 PM   #278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 850CSi View Post
So... anyone have any idea where this might have come from?

Found in oil pan.
Curiously enough there appears to be a broken bolt on the oil pump but I can’t find the head! And I don’t see anything else missing.

Also posting a pic of the broken thread with one of the oil pan bolts for comparison.


Don’t think I have much choice but to continue on.
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      12-01-2019, 02:16 PM   #279
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I probably broke off about half of the bell connector. I’m guessing it’ll still click into place but as you say no idea if that’ll be enough.
When you get the pan back on, reassemble the drain hose and see how the engine runs. If it won't hold idle, then there is a leak at the drain hose. If it clicks on, then is probably is a good connection.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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      12-01-2019, 03:45 PM   #280
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Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
When you get the pan back on, reassemble the drain hose and see how the engine runs. If it won't hold idle, then there is a leak at the drain hose. If it clicks on, then is probably is a good connection.
Yeah, that’s what I intend to do. Thank you!
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      12-02-2019, 12:20 AM   #281
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Aaaaaand of course it’s leaking again and I haven’t even turned it on. All that work and worse off than I started! Lesson learned.
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      12-02-2019, 05:56 AM   #282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
It's not possible for your bother's E93 to have manual transmission and an aluminum oil pan; unless it was converted. For the E9X, all N51/N52 cars with a manual transmission have a black, steel oil pan.
Unless it is an XI. All XI has aluminum oil pan regardless of transmission type.
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      12-02-2019, 08:41 PM   #283
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Quote:
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Unless it is an XI. All XI has aluminum oil pan regardless of transmission type.
Then that'd be a manual transmission'd E93xi, which doesn't exist as a factory build.
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      12-03-2019, 11:02 AM   #284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 850CSi View Post
So, I broke the connector itself. And even after I broke the connector, it still wouldn’t come loose! I finally got it off ... by breaking it some more.

I assume I’m taking off the intake manifold now to replace that line? Guess I can do my 3 stage conversion now...



Anyone have any ideas what he was referring to here?
I was referring to the crankcase return pipe. I still have the remaining part of the new one I purchased. The only thing missing would be the yellow connector piece. (and FWIW, I can send the remaining part of the old broken yellow connector. There’s probably enough left that you could make a secure connection with it.) I’d be happy to mail it to you if you want it. PM me your address.
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      12-03-2019, 03:04 PM   #285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pohsib View Post
I was referring to the crankcase return pipe. I still have the remaining part of the new one I purchased. The only thing missing would be the yellow connector piece. (and FWIW, I can send the remaining part of the old broken yellow connector. There’s probably enough left that you could make a secure connection with it.) I’d be happy to mail it to you if you want it. PM me your address.
Thanks, I appreciate that.

I guess what I was asking is why your mechanic didn’t seem to think replacing the whole pipe would be a big deal. Doesn’t it require removing the intake? Or is there another way to get there that I’m missing? (does anyone know if it might be possible just by removing the air filter housing?)



...

As for my leak I left the car in my folks’ garage for the week. In some instances I was hesitant to torque the pan bolts the full 90 past 8nm. I’ll go back next weekend and try re-torquing. I did use some Permatex black on the pan-to-gasket surface — does anyone know how that might affect the amount of torque needed to get a full seal? Perhaps I should’ve waited longer before filling the engine with oil?
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      12-04-2019, 07:15 AM   #286
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 850CSi View Post
Thanks, I appreciate that.

I guess what I was asking is why your mechanic didn’t seem to think replacing the whole pipe would be a big deal. Doesn’t it require removing the intake? Or is there another way to get there that I’m missing? (does anyone know if it might be possible just by removing the air filter housing?)
That's correct. He seemed to think it was an easy fix ... and it might be for them. There seems to be a secret to unhooking those little bastard connections. The pipe itself is pretty short. I meant to inspect the new one I have to see if I could give you some tips.

Depending on how much of a hurry you are, I might be able to help because I have to inspect and possibly replace one of my DISA valves.

Oh, and LOL ... here is what Pelican Parts says about that effing hose "... If you are doing a repair where this hose may be moved or bumped, have a spare on hand, because it will break."

https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...eplacement.htm

Last edited by Pohsib; 12-04-2019 at 09:10 AM..
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