[cranelec]

Forum members, I need some guidance....

BACKROUND:
2011 335i xdrive: FBO, PS2, Wedge 93 Tune, etc. (No fuel upgrades).

I just went to start my car (outdoor temp 28F) and it sounded like a shaking
coffee can full of ball bearings.

Car went into limp mode.

These are the following codes:

DME Active Codes:
28A0 -Intake Pipe absolute pressure, plausibility: Pressure too high.
2C58 -Charging Pressure control: Switch off as consequence.
2D55 -Variable camshaft timing control (VANOS), intake, cold start not controllable.
2D5A -VANOS intake: control fault, camshaft stuck.

DME shadow (inactive) codes:
2820 -Absolute pressor sensor, intake pipe, multiple fault.
2BDE -Fuel High pressure on enabling of injection: pressure too low.
2BF0 -Kraftsoffhochdruck bei oder nach Freigabe der Einspritzung (2. Umweltbedingungssatz
nach Zeitverzogerung): Druck zu niedrig
[High fuel pressure at or after release of injection (2nd environment condition set
after time delay): pressure too low]
2DAE -VANOS, inlet, collective fault: electrical or mechanical
2DAF -VANOS, collective fault: electrical or mechanical

Any ideas, thoughts, and suggestions are appreciated.

mike

[Boo$ted_in_ri]

My car acts alittle funny on those really cold days too. Clear the codes and see if they come back. Have you ever done your hpfp on the car yet?

[weehe126]

Did you have the VANOS bolts recall performed?

[cranelec]

Yes, that's part of the reason I'm crushed (...truly gonna suck when my ProMeth Stage 3 arrives). Thanks Jeff, was hoping this post caught your eye.

Never beat the car. In fact, my sorry old ass was satisfied pulling three or four WOT's/week going to work after my 'DynoJet Day'. The car ran great (dd mode) and I parked it Tuesday night as usual.

Not sure what to do. My garage is my driveway located in Northeast PA. After reading Pladi & SnapCoupe's, et.al., posts, I'm feeling like I'm looking into a vehicular financial money pit. Phuck, the amount of work required to reinforce the HF portable canvass garage to withstand one snow storm has me scratching my head.

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

The VANOS faults are most suspect to me. Have you tried cleaning the solenoids? It's a relatively easy job. They can cause those faults. If that doesn't fix it, try replacing them.

[cranelec]

After reading Pladi & Snapcoupe's comments in another recent post, the goddamn sound/knock has me assuming the worst... Sheez, all I did was start the damn car. But that damn knocking sound stunned me...
Thanks for the suggestion NBA! It's supposed to snow/rain tomorrow but, I'll give your idea a shot.

thanks

[lwgrenier]

My engine just seized and this doesn’t seem like that at all. I’ve only heard of these engines failing under load, which makes sense. Sounds more like a HPFP or Vanos situation.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by cranelec

After reading Pladi & Snapcoupe's comments in another recent post, the goddamn sound/knock has me assuming the worst... Sheez, all I did was start the damn car. But that damn knocking sound stunned me...
Thanks for the suggestion NBA! It's supposed to snow/rain tomorrow but, I'll give your idea a shot.

thanks

Dont worry man . What you are seeing is different. Sounds like its your top end not bottom end.

Cleaning and replacing your vanos is a good idea. Try also just cranking the car without starting.

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Originally Posted by cranelec

After reading Pladi & Snapcoupe's comments in another recent post, the goddamn sound/knock has me assuming the worst... Sheez, all I did was start the damn car. But that damn knocking sound stunned me...
Thanks for the suggestion NBA! It's supposed to snow/rain tomorrow but, I'll give your idea a shot.

thanks

Don't worry. The "cold start not controllable" code is most likely why you had such a loud engine. VANOS is really important for having a smooth idle and proper cold start. If it can't set the timing correctly, you can have a poor idle that can certainly include knocking sounds.

Since you've already had the VANOS recall done, we can rule out the VANOS bolt problem. The next most likely culprit would be the VANOS solenoids. To make yourself feel better, here's a guy who had those codes on an N62 and fixed it by replacing the bad solenoid.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/bmwtech...olenoid-2/amp/

Cleaning can work, but not all the time. If it doesn't work, replacing the intake solenoid. You could replace both but it's not necessary.

You can get an OEM VAICO one for $126.

https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...23-MFG604.aspx

[cranelec]

Thanks for the guidance! Two new solenoids will arrive Tuesday. It's a real PITA having a driveway for a garage trying to work on the damn car. If the new solenoids do not solve my problem, I'm looking at one helluva "SUNK" cost no matter what I do. The "knock" is unbelievably loud.

[weehe126]

Can you post a video of the knocking sounds?

[cranelec]

Since it managed to get above 36 degrees today with out snow or rain, I pulled both the intake and exhaust VANOS solenoids. Applied 12 VDC and determined that the intake solenoid is non-functional. Just hope I did not cause serious damage to intake cam. I'm installing the new solenoids tomorrow and if the problem still exists, I will post a vid of the sound.

[weehe126]

I doubt you could cause any damage with a bad VANOS solenoid. Would just run like crap. And now you have an extra for the exhaust if it ever goes.

[Pladi]

I personally dont think its a good idea to have a car that sounds mechanically like ball bearings full, keep running for a video..

[cranelec]

Originally Posted by Pladi

I personally dont think its a good idea to have a car that sounds mechanically like ball bearings full, keep running for a video..

Plad,

Your absolutely correct...yet, I had to start the car after replacing the VANOS Solenoid Valves

I'm phu#ked

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by cranelec

Plad,

Your absolutely correct...yet, I had to start the car after replacing the VANOS Solenoid Valves

I'm phu#ked

Did you have any type of rework done before this noise started ?

What was the last work done on the car before the noise.

The noise does not sound good unfortunately.

Dont run the car anymore.


To me its hard from the video but it sounds like TOP end related. You need at least have someone remove the valve cover to check the top end.

[cranelec]

Plad,
After this Dyno,

WedgePerformance tweaked the tune adding another 25 WHp. (Always was a coward scared to sieze my N55). I love this car...Spent the last 36 hours figuring out how to erect a HF 10' x 17' temporary garage that can withstand a typical Northeast PA snow load & comply with my POA rules (as an Ontarian? I hope you understand wrenching out-doors in the winter blows). From my perspective, I don't have many fiscally sound options. I believe a forum member "bours?" is selling his 2011 fully built N55 for $21K.

[weehe126]

First steps would be to take off the valve cover to see if anything is off. Then would be to take off the oil pan. I know that is a massive pain on a Xi.

[MTK24]

your car only does 346wHp 346 ft/lbs on PS2 and FBO? How much PSI was that? I've done very similar results with FBO and e85 with stock turbo

To answer your question about the knock, I would try replacing the Vanos then clear the codes. Mine were replaced under recall @28k miles

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by cranelec

Plad,
After this Dyno,

WedgePerformance tweaked the tune adding another 25 WHp. (Always was a coward scared to sieze my N55). I love this car...Spent the last 36 hours figuring out how to erect a HF 10' x 17' temporary garage that can withstand a typical Northeast PA snow load & comply with my POA rules (as an Ontarian? I hope you understand wrenching out-doors in the winter blows). From my perspective, I don't have many fiscally sound options. I believe a forum member "bours?" is selling his 2011 fully built N55 for $21K.

Man i replaced my expansion tank.. a 15 minute job and it SUCKED big time. So i totally understand.

Before you go looking for another car , take it to an indy shop that you trust. Have the remove the valve cover. Did you say your vanos recall was done or not ?

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Originally Posted by cranelec

Plad,

Your absolutely correct...yet, I had to start the car after replacing the VANOS Solenoid Valves

I'm phu#ked

As others said, the next step will be to remove the valve cover and do a deeper investigation. That is a pretty loud knocking sound it is making. It sounds different from the rod bearing knock sound that I've heard from other videos.

[cranelec]

First of all, Thanks for all of you who took time to respond. The motor is smoked. This car will rise from the ashes. If anyone would like to PM me with recommendations regarding a trusted re builder, it would be greatly appreciated. Here's the plan: New crank, bearings, rods, forged internals and king bearings. Never in my wildest dreams did I think that my PS2 would be the limiting factor on this car...Might as well beef up the transfer case waiting for the motor to be completed.
Since I will be doing the R & R, I find no financial logic in throwing a used $4k motor or a new BMW N55 motor @ $13K.
(Yes, VANOS recall was done APR 2016, Yesterday after installing the new VANOS Solenoids, using ISTA-D, the VANOS successfully learned its limits, etc).