[feuer]

I’m doing another non I-Drive to CIC retrofit.

All the spots on the x14272 where the pins from the CID are supposed to go are taken:
1 or 37 for +
27 for ground
11 for High Can
30 for Low Can

Are there other spots where the pins can go into the x14272 connector or I will have to tap into the harness itself.

[Aus335iguy]

There might be other spots however i think you can just tap in at that point if you cant find any spares. Curious though; If the CIC wiring diagram says that goes on that connector then whats taking its spot ?

[smass]

I have pulled a few CID wiring harnesses out of parts cars. Many times the wires from the screen go to wire nuts where multiple wires connect together. This is almost always true for the can wiring. To get to these junction points you need to un-tape the harness while the dash is out. I did this on my first retrofit but I won't do it again. Just access the power. ground and can at the cic quadlock connector. That is what most people do. Accessing it that way also simplifies the controller wiring. Finding and wiring the controller power connector by the driver's feet is a lot of work.

[feuer]

I don’t have the complete pin out on this connector. There are some available spots. If I have the pin out the wires I have from CID can go there, hypothetically.

[PichaDis11]

If I should be honest. I ended up tapping the wires for my car as there were no other space to put it. Though it works well for my car the CIC does recognize a k-line fault that stays on but doesn't seem to cause anything to go crazy. I utilize a Emulator for Nav/Speech Activation so there's that too.

I do remember reading awhile back that the cars that had iDrive from Factory had a different Junction Box and JBE than that of a non-drive vehicle. You may have to tap.

[feuer]

I have two 335i, 2008 and 2010. Both non I-Drive. X14272 in 2008 had the pin spots available. 2010 x14272 spots are all taken.

[PichaDis11]

Originally Posted by feuer

I have two 335i, 2008 and 2010. Both non I-Drive. X14272 in 2008 had the pin spots available. 2010 x14272 spots are all taken.

So this thread speaks of x14272 switching sides. Have you looked at it already?

I am curious now.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by PichaDis11

So this thread speaks of x14272 switching sides. Have you looked at it already?

I am curious now.

Yes, I look into that, the right connector doesn’t have those spots available either and doesn’t seem to have can bus wires at all.

[smass]

Originally Posted by feuer

I have two 335i, 2008 and 2010. Both non I-Drive. X14272 in 2008 had the pin spots available. 2010 x14272 spots are all taken.

The wiring changed a few times over the years. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ation-display/

[smass]

Originally Posted by PichaDis11

If I should be honest. I ended up tapping the wires for my car as there were no other space to put it. Though it works well for my car the CIC does recognize a k-line fault that stays on but doesn't seem to cause anything to go crazy. I utilize a Emulator for Nav/Speech Activation so there's that too.

I do remember reading awhile back that the cars that had iDrive from Factory had a different Junction Box and JBE than that of a non-drive vehicle. You may have to tap.

Emulators cause a few CIC faults because they disconnect the cic from the k can. If connected, the cic would know the car's vin and deactivate things.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by smass

The wiring changed a few times over the years. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ation-display/

All those show same pin out that I have listed in post #1

[ptpending]

Originally Posted by feuer

All those show same pin out that I have listed in post #1

i will advise you to do as smass did
but if you want to knew truth then you to have too look scheme for fuse, and they can have splice points locations on drawings
like that
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e91-320d-tou/RIjYQPu
X436 is Fuse 61 factory tap/splice point. The factory wiring have many splice/tap points which are covered with additional tape and plastic cover.
If you do retrofit according EBA the EBA will specify splice point location or (if that will require too much disassembly) will contain cables, connectors and pins to cut and extend wiring before quadlock connector (that was in a factory Bluetooth wiring retrofit).
Another good place to tap for headunit is special headunit connector in drivers footwell under carpet. I.e. factory wiring to headunit goes from fuse/junction box to driver footwell, and via connector then goes back near drivers seat to the central tunnel and headunit location.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by ptpending

i will advise you to do as smass did
but if you want to knew truth then you to have too look scheme for fuse, and they can have splice points locations on drawings
like that
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e91-320d-tou/RIjYQPu
X436 is Fuse 61 factory tap/splice point. The factory wiring have many splice/tap points which are covered with additional tape and plastic cover.
If you do retrofit according EBA the EBA will specify splice point location or (if that will require too much disassembly) will contain cables, connectors and pins to cut and extend wiring before quadlock connector (that was in a factory Bluetooth wiring retrofit).
Another good place to tap for headunit is special headunit connector in drivers footwell under carpet. I.e. factory wiring to headunit goes from fuse/junction box to driver footwell, and via connector then goes back near drivers seat to the central tunnel and headunit location.

Thank you for the reply. I was hoping not splice into wires thus removing the individual wires with the pins from the connectors on the donor car.

[ptpending]

Originally Posted by feuer

Thank you for the reply. I was hoping not splice into wires thus removing the individual wires with the pins from the connectors on the donor car.

you do not need to remove pins to splice to wire
wiring have colors assigned to distinguish them without removal

[PichaDis11]

Verdict?!

[feuer]

Originally Posted by PichaDis11

Verdict?!

I haven’t had a chance to work on this. I had to rebuild cylinder head due to burnt intake valve that was pushing exhaust back through the intake

[PichaDis11]

Originally Posted by feuer

I haven’t had a chance to work on this. I had to rebuild cylinder head due to burnt intake valve that was pushing exhaust back through the intake

You're a real all rounder aren't ya. keep it up

[feuer]

Originally Posted by PichaDis11

You're a real all rounder aren't ya. keep it up

another obstacle, x11003 or how is called, on the back of the fuse panel where the positive for the I-Drive controller need to go is occupied too.

[smass]

Originally Posted by feuer

another obstacle, x11003 or how is called, on the back of the fuse panel where the positive for the I-Drive controller need to go is occupied too.

The alternative for that one is pin 3 of x9331 located in the driver’s side footwell. That is the one I used for my 2006 retrofit.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by smass

The alternative for that one is pin 3 of x9331 located in the driver’s side footwell. That is the one I used for my 2006 retrofit.

Yes, I figured it out after taking everything a part. Now I need to do some coding and get aluminum center trim for CIC I-Drive controller. I can’t find it used so wil order new. Is expensive, about $200. I’m also going to add CarPlay box on this car because is automatic and will be my daily while I’m trying to sell it

[feuer]

.

[smass]

Originally Posted by feuer

Yes, I figured it out after taking everything a part. Now I need to do some coding and get aluminum center trim for CIC I-Drive controller. I can’t find it used so wil order new. Is expensive, about $200. I’m also going to add CarPlay box on this car because is automatic and will be my daily while I’m trying to sell it

Carplay box is a nice input for a backup camera. No emulator needed.