|
|
|
|
|
|
BMW Garage | BMW Meets | Register | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
|
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
>
Plastic molded hose (n52 3.0)
|
|
02-23-2020, 01:48 PM | #1 |
Private
3
Rep 56
Posts |
Plastic molded hose (n52 3.0)
Car wouldn't start, long sad story which I will likely open a new thread about later ensued, yada yada yada I just had the car towed home from the shop (I know, that seems backwards). Anyway, I was poking about and noticed that there is a thin black plastic hose (actually might be two of them, connected by a rubber hose) that connects on one end under the intake manifold, and then goes up and over to the driver's side near the firewall. This hose is broken or otherwise disconnected from the connection under the intake manifold. You can just move it all around. Well, that is clearly not good. I would guess it's coolant-related, and indeed the car is very low on coolant now, but I don't see coolant all over the engine. Can anyone confirm exactly what this is?
I took a picture but it's on my phone which is not with me at the moment for some reason. If no one knows what it is based on the description above, I'll add the picture later. |
02-23-2020, 03:10 PM | #2 |
Art Collector
2424
Rep 3,450
Posts |
Post the pic and we can confirm definitively then. Otherwise while we might be guessing correctly we’re still just guessing.
__________________
When I'm dead, just throw me in the trash.
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-23-2020, 03:33 PM | #3 |
Private
3
Rep 56
Posts |
Good point. Here's the picture.
Edit: It won't let me upload the file, and I'm not seeing the image I linked, so maybe this forum has some rules or whatever that I'm unaware of. Anyway, the link is here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/aRE4oaispUofjiFh7 |
Appreciate
0
|
02-23-2020, 04:49 PM | #5 |
Private
3
Rep 56
Posts |
Ahh, OK that makes more sense. It seemed like a pretty hefty line for a vacuum line, but based on where it's coming from and going to, I bet you are right. Thanks...so at minimum, that is giving me a nice big vacuum leak.
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-23-2020, 05:17 PM | #6 |
Cometh
1067
Rep 1,287
Posts
Drives: Boy's Soul
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Boy's Hole
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-24-2020, 08:49 AM | #7 | |
Private
3
Rep 56
Posts |
Brilliant, thanks! That is definitely the line. It actually looks like my problem is with #10. I haven't looked too closely yet at how it attaches underneath the intake manifold, hopefully I can fix it without removing the intake, but we'll see...
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-24-2020, 10:01 AM | #8 |
Brigadier General
2440
Rep 4,333
Posts |
I just heped someone with a 3 stage manifold and IIRC you can access that hose without pulling the manifld to remove it. 99% sure I unclipped it and removed it before I pulled the intake.
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-24-2020, 11:28 AM | #9 |
Private
3
Rep 56
Posts |
That would be ideal. Although judging by the state of everything else on this car, there may be other reasons to pull the intake that I encounter.
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-24-2020, 04:49 PM | #10 |
Private
3
Rep 56
Posts |
OK, this should be fun :-( Not sure if my clamp pliers will reach down there or not...I don't think a screw clamp will be any easier...
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DM8SN9in7VnqySnJ6 |
Appreciate
0
|
02-24-2020, 06:35 PM | #11 |
Brigadier General
2440
Rep 4,333
Posts |
I don't recall there being an actual clamp on it.
I know I didn't cut an otiker one. you sure it's not a quick release underneath that bit? of course I was working on an LCI car, so it may have been different. |
Appreciate
0
|
02-24-2020, 08:25 PM | #12 |
Private
3
Rep 56
Posts |
I didn't see one, but it's possible. It looked like the hose was clamped to a metal or plastic tube. Maybe that is connected via a quick release of some sort? That would make sense.
|
Appreciate
0
|
03-17-2020, 10:38 PM | #13 |
Private
3
Rep 56
Posts |
I finally got to take a closer look at this, now that I've finished replacing the valve cover gasket. The car is driving much better, but not stopping very well at all, for obvious reasons.
The part that is broken is actually #15 here: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...81#34336769621 There is a plastic part (the upper section) and it fits down into a wider rubber hose and is clamped together with an oetiker clamp. The plastic tube is broken off right above that. On my car, at least, this rubber tube is clamped to a nipple coming off the engine with a worm gear clamp, which is irritating as hell because I can't get a tool on it. I just bought a long-handled 1/4" flex-head ratchet specifically to reach it, but the way the clamp is clocked I can't get the ratchet head plus socket to line up with the screw head. I'm really not sure what to do, short of removing the intake manifold, which I really, REALLY do not want to do. Maybe a right-angle ratcheting screwdriver where the bit doesn't stick out as far as a socket on a ratcheting wrench? But I haven't found any that are long enough. Any ideas? Or do I just bite the damn bullet and remove the intake manifold? I got through the valve cover gasket without breaking the vent tube at the back, but I somehow doubt I'll get lucky twice.... |
Appreciate
0
|
03-18-2020, 08:45 AM | #14 |
Brigadier General
2440
Rep 4,333
Posts |
take a photo.
I have a set of flex shaft extensions for hard to reach hose clamps. They're useless for anything that requires real torque. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001223OF8...osi&th=1&psc=1 |
Appreciate
0
|
03-18-2020, 08:50 AM | #15 | |
Private
3
Rep 56
Posts |
I will try to get a decent shot. Those extensions look like they have potential. I'm not sure if there's enough room once the socket is on the end or not, but these might be good to have regardless.
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
03-18-2020, 09:29 AM | #16 |
Lieutenant Colonel
393
Rep 1,578
Posts |
Have you removed the air filter box? That should allow you to get a hand in under the intake. You could remove the alternator for access. Be sure to replace the bolts as they are single-use.
|
Appreciate
0
|
03-18-2020, 10:08 AM | #17 | |
Brigadier General
2440
Rep 4,333
Posts |
Quote:
it will take 15 minutes to remove the alternator. it's how the dealer does the PCV recall. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
03-18-2020, 12:05 PM | #19 |
Brigadier General
2440
Rep 4,333
Posts |
just get new bolts and have a decent torque wrench and you can r&r the alternator in like 15 minutes.
good time to service the drive belt if you've never done it and it's of an unkown age. check out the idler pulleys and tensioner too. the contitech kit is like $80. might be worth ordering when you order the bolts just to do it. |
Appreciate
0
|
03-28-2020, 01:35 PM | #20 |
Private
3
Rep 56
Posts |
OK, the alternator approach was the right one. I had to wait for new bolts to arrive, but that thing comes off pretty easy. I left the tensioner and belts because they seemed fine and in fact I know at least the belt was done not that long ago. Anyway it was easy to get to the clamp with the alternator out of the way, and the hardest part at that point was getting the heat-and-age-hardened hose to come off, but that was done with a bit of effort. It really is good to have working brakes lol...
|
Appreciate
0
|
03-28-2020, 02:53 PM | #21 |
Brigadier General
2440
Rep 4,333
Posts |
I just looked at mine the other day actually, and I have a quick connect at the vacuum pump to another quick connect above the alternator to the line that runs to the booster.
so it sounds like someone had been there before if you had some sort of worm clamp. |
Appreciate
0
|
03-28-2020, 03:23 PM | #22 |
Private
3
Rep 56
Posts |
That does seem likely. That worm gear clamp did not really look factory to me. This car has an unknown and probably checkered past.
After replacing valve cover and filter housing gaskets, plugs, coils and radiator (and then the brake booster line, which was friendly fire) it is actually running pretty good now. At least until the next thing... |
Appreciate
0
|
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|