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Spec stage 2+ installed, horrible noises
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04-29-2014, 06:25 PM | #1 |
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Spec stage 2+ installed, horrible noises
So I just got my car back from my buddy installing the stage 2+ with steel smfw. I used the spec throw out bearing in the low position and added new fork from BMW but didn't use there plastic throw out bearing. Holy crap is the rattle bad. Even at 30mph I hear a grinding sound and chatter and rattle, however you want to call it. It's so loud you can not hear my exhaust anymore. When my foot is on the clutch, all the noise goes away. Now I heard about a little chatter, but this sounds terrifying. Will this noise subside once the clutch is broken in? My friend said the only thing he can think of is the throw out bearing vibrating and making this noise? Is this true or is it something else as well. Maybe he installed something not correctly? I used d4 fluid and bad vibration goes even to the actual stick. This is so bad of a sound I feel like it destroys the class and luxury of having a 335. You can't even hear the turbos, and for the loud grinding sound even at cursing speeds?! Please help!
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04-29-2014, 07:25 PM | #2 |
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I have the same experience. I had a quality shop install too, so either other people have a higher threshold for chatter noise or our cars are special (in a bad way)
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04-29-2014, 07:27 PM | #3 |
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Just what I didn't want to hear lol. Did you noise settle down a bit? Mines so bad that I would honestly pay again to put it back to stock clutch and sell the damn thing lol. It's that bad
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04-29-2014, 07:31 PM | #4 |
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mine makes no noise unless I have the a/c on and am sitting at an idle. I didn't like the break in feeling but after about 1000miles the clutch feels like stock with a bit stiffer pedal.
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04-29-2014, 07:43 PM | #5 |
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Did you even have the noise? Or did it go away after 1000 miles. Also did you use the stock throw out bearing (plastic) or the metel one thay came with spec ?
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04-29-2014, 08:17 PM | #6 |
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It never had any noise other than at idle. I used the metal spec throw out bearing
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04-29-2014, 08:18 PM | #7 |
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Dual mass flywheel absorbs the vibrations. It's been recommended to stick with a dual mass flywheel (DMF) unless you are pushing the horse power limits and are getting misfires due to the sensor misinterpreting the DMF . There are threads stating the noise subsides a bit after break in. Videos have shown the increase in noise with engine load such as steering or air condition being on. I say wait it out for a while, see if it goes a bit quieter. If not, you may just get use to holding in the clutch. Or then decide to buy a DMF and redo the install, sell the SMF for cheap to recover some cost. Turning in your car with that noise or trading in any situation, you will lose more $$$. Best of luck.
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04-29-2014, 08:35 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
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04-29-2014, 08:43 PM | #9 |
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You'd need different disk to work with the DMFW. But there's definitely a difference in my mind between chatter (normal) and grinding (not normal), so is it just chatter or is there really a problem?
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04-29-2014, 08:49 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
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04-30-2014, 08:12 AM | #11 |
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Yeah, I installed my spec 2+ w/ SMFW last month, No chatter unless idling or with A/C on. I am running MT-90 though.
You should understand that you put an aftermarket, high performance flywheel/ clutch in your car though, it is not going to be the same as stock. I think you need to understand what a DMFW does first, then I think you would understand why your singlemass is chattering. Chatter is normal, Weather or not yours is chatter or something else is yet to be seen. Last edited by MMMCOOKIES55; 04-30-2014 at 08:19 AM.. |
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04-30-2014, 08:36 AM | #12 |
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OP, you should have some chatter with the spec steel fw but not that loud. It could be a defective part ot the install went wrong. Break in the clutch and the report back. Post a video.
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04-30-2014, 11:56 AM | #14 |
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If you commonly drive it below 1700-1800rpm, you'll get some weird chatter too. Let the RPM's come up a little, it goes away.
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04-30-2014, 12:04 PM | #15 |
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Sounds like my exhuast but it's not. The sound is only inside the car. You can hear the loud vibration when reving or driving. ah!!!!! Sorry for the back round noise, it's pouring here today.
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04-30-2014, 04:29 PM | #17 |
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what gear are you in? If you are loading the clutch hard at low rpms you will get vibration. Thats part ot the SMFW.. Try down shifting to a lower gear. You will not be able to load the clutch at low rpm like you did with the DMFW
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04-30-2014, 04:31 PM | #18 |
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I was in 3rd gear and giving maybe 10% pedal
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04-30-2014, 04:33 PM | #19 |
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I still think you lugging the motor to much. If you get about ~2200+rpm does it go away?
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04-30-2014, 04:41 PM | #20 |
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A little yes. Mind you my clutch has 10 miles on it. Is this just the "normal" for new clutches
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04-30-2014, 06:30 PM | #21 |
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yes this is normal. Keep driving it and try not to load it to hard. A lot of easy down shifting and driving in traffic will help. Get about 500ish miles on it and then start pushing it. Mine really came to life after a couple of hard launches at approx. 1000miles. keep the rpms higher than usual also about 2500rpm will avoid a lot of those vibrations.
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04-30-2014, 06:57 PM | #22 |
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To clarify the chatter noise is the transmission, which is caused by the SMFW and will not improve with break in. To improve it you have to look at improving engine smoothness and/or heavier tranny fluid... increasing idle speed.
The harsh engagement is the clutch and may improve a little over time, but you'll improve your technique... I would rev the engine (on/off throttle) when working the clutch at slow speeds or from static. The SM has its advantages... mainly in dumping the clutch on shifts. Unless you're making big power though, I think many regret getting the SM. |
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