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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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n54 vacuum hose refresh project
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07-26-2018, 09:15 PM | #1 |
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n54 vacuum hose refresh project
Hi All,
So I'm at about 160k miles on my FBO n54 e90 (i still have the stock inlets). I'm going to be doing a project where I change out the pulley/tensioner kit (original one was changed at 105k miles). Since I have this apart I might as well do the OFHG (original was changed out at 90k miles). Since i'm still running the original starter I might as well change that out too with a new set of manifold gaskets. I'll also be tossing in a fresh set of spark plugs. My VCG was done at 105k miles, spark plugs, and so was my WP+Tstat+Expansion tank. From time to time I have noticed I get a lot of 30FF codes and no boost (or slow to come on boost). I also have had a TON of wastegate rattle since about 105k miles. Which got me thinking... maybe my vacuum lines need a refresh?? I found a link to this site on a DIY saying I should probably pick up some vacuum hoses from them: https://www.verociousmotorsports.com...ld-by-the-Foot Questions I have: 1) How many feet of hose should I order? I'm guessing 10 ft? 2) I am planning to get black color hose because I like the stealth look... but what Interior Diameter (ID) should I get? I heard the stock stuff is 3.5" ID, but I have also heard that the 4" ID makes it a little bit easier to install onto the turbos which seem difficult to get to??? 3) Anything else I should consider or other project refresh items to do while I am already deep into the current labor? FBO parts: A) ER CP w/tial BOV VTA B) ER full competition FMIC anodized hard C) AR DP set at 5 OClock (Primary O2's were changed at 105k miles) D) Latest JB4 ISO Map 5 + DCI + BMS OCC Thanks in advance for the advice. |
07-27-2018, 09:36 AM | #2 | |
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Drives: 2007 Black/Black 335i e90
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I used 3.5mm. The only one that is is difficult to get on is vacuum hose to the front turbo actuator. There is a really neat DIY, in the DIY section, that makes this significantly easier. New starter? Mine is original at 153,000 miles and shows no signs of slowing down. I guess if you want, but I'd save my money, if you don't see any issues. You want 20' of vacuum line Personally, I'd do MMP 1.75" inlets & do your engine mounts while your in there, if your at 160,000 miles. If you do that, make sure you get new turbo seals. |
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07-27-2018, 02:08 PM | #3 | |
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1) https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...al-13547522361 2) What do you mean by a FMIC gasket??? 3) Need to check inlets on turbos (secured) 4) Why MMP (I have no research on inlets yet) also I would assume a hard pipe is better than a rubber/silicone hose because it won't collapse? 5) 20 feet of vacuum lines? i have heard about 10 feet... are you sure? 6) I'm not sure if my engine/trans mounts have been changed? They might have been. But my car is an XI model so i don't have the issue of the pulley/tensioner rubbing. 7) Need FCPEuro link to turbo seals? |
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07-27-2018, 04:24 PM | #4 | |
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[QUOTE=fazman;23512455]
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FMIC to lower charge pipe & outlet gaskets (2) https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?utf8=✓&keywords=11617791469 Turbo seals (2) https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...asket-01158200 Charge pipe to Throttle Body (I just thought of this one) https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?utf8=✓&keywords=13717568031 Downpipe to exhaust seal http://www.burgertuning.com/n54_n55_...e_gaskets.html I said 20 feet for the vacuum line, in case an error was made; 15 feet should do it, but little room for error. 10 feet = no room for error. MMP is a good company out of Houston, TX. They make the most cost effective inlets made out of silicone for your money. I have them and couldn't be happier. You can get them directly from MMP or really any online vendor that sells after mkt parts for BMW's etc. https://mmp-e.com/products/mmp-bmw-n...ilicone-inlets I put in downpipe to exhaust gaskets because you will need to take the cats out in order to put in the rear inlet. Almost everyone on this forum, who has after mkt inlets, gets them made out of silicone. If you live in the Midwest, Northeast or any state that uses salt on the roads in the winter, have fun getting the cats off the exhaust pipes You will probably end up using a sawzall with a carbon tipped blade to cut the bolts off. In such case, I'd highly recommend using grade 8 bolts, nuts & washers slathered up in Nickel based anti-seize, when you put them back together. |
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07-30-2018, 08:04 PM | #5 | |
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[QUOTE=mweisdorfer;23513128]
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07-30-2018, 08:39 PM | #6 | ||
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[QUOTE=fazman;23525712]
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