Master window switch problems

FaceDeAce · 06-05-2021, 02:50 PM

Hi all.
New to the group and looking forward to learning what I can and helping where I can. We just recently put a new2us BMW on the driveway. It is a 4 door, 2009, 328 xdrive with manual 6 speed. Have never had a BMW before and so is going to be a bit of a learning curve as it reveals its secrets. Should not be too bad though, lots of experience with other vehicles here.

The first significant issue I am having trouble sorting out is the drivers door master window switch block. It does not work. The windows are completely non responsive to it. When I turn the headlamps on, the backlighting on the switch lights up fine, so it is at least getting control power. There is just no control of the windows or the mirrors from the drivers block. The switches on the armrests at the rear windows and passenger window work just fine, windows go up and down when using those switches. The problem is isolated to the drivers door master switch block.

I asked the previous owner about it. He said that as the third owner himself, he never could get it to work. He `thinks` that he may have installed a different (used) switch block and it still did not work for him and he gave up. So effectively I am going from a historical scratch point on it.

Starting with the basics I have checked all the fuses and traced the wiring and plugs. Took the door completely apart, including removing and inspecting the harness up to the a-pillar plug. Have not found any problems. The wiring and connection blocks are pristine. I took the switch out and took it apart down to the circuit board, again nothing obvious internally to the switch circuit board etc. Looks good in there too. So I am down to it is either a faulty switch block needing replacement or a car-sorfware issue.

For software, I have disconnected the battery and let the car sit for 30 minutes. Hoping for a reset of some sort. No change there, windows still do not work from the drivers switch block. Though the xdrive and other systems did give reset-reboot messages in the dash mini window screen. Also as a hardware/software test; On the keyless fob, I push and held the unlock/arrow button. All the windows opened, including the sunroof, and the drivers door window. I can close the 3 windows and sunroof from their respective switches on the armrests and the roof console, but can close any of them from the drivers switch block nor can I close the drivers window. After some online searching I discovered the trick with using the actual door key. Turn clockwise and hold, all windows open. Turn CCW and all windows close, including the drivers window. So I know the window motors work, the fuses are fine, the wiring is fine, and the computer control of all of the windows is fine.

That leaves me after the hours of checking and testing, with I think is just an actual drivers switch block replacement. First question, is this actually a common part to fail on these BMW cars? that would be odd for such a simple device. I have never ever had such on any of my other vehicles. Next question, when I look online for replacements there seem to be quite a few different ones specified. Such as w - w/o folding mirrors, w-w/o memory seats etc and each possible combination of those features. Does which replacement switch is used really matter? I mean really, actual real world matter. Why complicate such a simple thing? Also why in the heck are they so expensive? I have kids toys with much more complicated electronics in them that cost pennies on the dollar.

How do I determine the right switch part number for this car? The car does have memory seat buttons on the seat side, but I do not know if it has folding mirrors because the switch does not work at all. Also I cannot go off of the switch that is in there now as per previous owners comments I do not trust that it is the correct one. I will post a picture of it and its part number shortly so maybe an expert here can back check numbers.

At this point I believe I have exhausted the possibilities. at least those that I can think of, and am ready to order a new switch. I just not sure of which one to get.

Have I missed anything? Have you any other guiding thoughts or comments? Thanks.

FaceDeAce · 06-05-2021, 03:09 PM

Here is the existing switch block. May or may not be the right one for this car. Let me know ... if you know ... it that matters.

e91Owner · 06-05-2021, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FaceDeAce

How do I determine the right switch part number for this car?

Just go to realoem.com. It's what most people use for part numbers.

If the part number on the back is correct, the current part number would be 61319217332. If the mirrors are adjusting and you press down on the button and the mirrors fold in, that would confirm it's correct. -or- if the buttons are not working, the convenience menus would have an option for auto dip in reverse. At least on the e90, it comes with trim. That thing is nasty.

FaceDeAce · 06-05-2021, 07:50 PM

Great. Hey, thanks for that link. Plugged in last bit of the VIN and it spit out a nice list of parts. Focusing in on the list of master window switch blocks, in black, looks like there are three options to choose from. See screenshot. Getting closer, yay!

By process of elimination of what I know of the car vs what I do not know.
Known: it has power seats, with memory, which narrows it to the switches xx7327 or xx7330

I cannot see how to pick between those two, the descriptions are identical. Only difference is the Supp. column with whatever S459A S430A S313A yes/no values mean and how that would apply to this specific car.

e91Owner · 06-05-2021, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FaceDeAce

Great. Hey, thanks for that link. Plugged in last bit of the VIN and it spit out a nice list of parts. Focusing in on the list of master window switch blocks, in black, looks like there are three options to choose from. See screenshot. Getting closer, yay!

By process of elimination of what I know of the car vs what I do not know.
Known: it has power seats, with memory, which narrows it to the switches xx7327 or xx7330

I cannot see how to pick between those two, the descriptions are identical. Only difference is the Supp. column with whatever S459A S430A S313A yes/no values mean and how that would apply to this specific car.

It's what I said before. If you have power mirrors that fold, it's the first one. If not, it would be the 3rd one.

FaceDeAce · 06-05-2021, 09:31 PM

I have no way of knowing if the mirrors power fold or not as the switch does not work for anything, including the fold button. I also do not know, yet, what convenience menus are or how to use them. This 328 has a basic dash, it does not have that upper dash bubble screen and interface which I think is called idrive stuff? Any computer interface, access, is through the stick on the steering column and a mini window between the speed and rpm dials.

I suppose I could take a mirror apart looking for a motor and gears indicating power folding. Overly invasive but I can do so if need be. In the meantime, an online vin decoder search shows me this. The minor options listed are the S430 and S459, I assume that means basic power mirrors but not power folding. Is that right?

e91Owner · 06-06-2021, 08:07 AM

The menus I am referring to are on the the screen in between the tach and the speedometer. It is controlled with the wheel and the bc button on your turning signal stalk.

If that is the options list for your VIN, then you just have to look at the realoem listing and match up the equals to yes. Since there is only one S430A = yes, you have the correct part already in the car and the 1st one is the part that superseded it.

FaceDeAce · 06-06-2021, 11:28 PM

OK thank you.

e91Owner · 06-07-2021, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FaceDeAce

OK thank you.

One thing to mention—you will find a lot of aftermarket options that will likely work just fine at a significant cost savings. However, I have found that these parts often have a slight mismatch from the stock trim. So it depends on whether you're trying to restore the car to its former glory or just getting it working whether it's worth the extra $$.

FaceDeAce · 06-07-2021, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by e91Owner

One thing to mention—you will find a lot of aftermarket options that will likely work just fine at a significant cost savings. However, I have found that these parts often have a slight mismatch from the stock trim. So it depends on whether you're trying to restore the car to its former glory or just getting it working whether it's worth the extra $$.

Thank you. I just need to get it working at this point. I cannot get it on the road until this switch is fixed/replaced. Not going to be a garage queen. It will be a driver. The car does have some other minor cosmetic issues that I am not going to spend any time or money on until I have the systems functional and a car that can be used. Which at this point the only thing remaining is this window switch holding up the show.

I am now shopping for the most economical and most assured correct switch. There are quite a few options on Amazon to choose from and with reasonable delivery time to me in the sticks. So trying to narrow it down to which one to order.

Is there any other possible thing it could be other than the switch? Any other possibilities that would cause these symptoms? Something that I have not yet identified and checked?

.

FaceDeAce · 06-07-2021, 09:27 PM

New development. Probably related. I just hooked up my blue driver scan tool to the car today. It spit out some codes that the text indicate a problem with mirror. I am wondering:
- is the mirror causing the switch problem.OR
- is the switch causing a mirror code. OR
- is it something else.

Looks like my next step is to remove the mirror from the circuit, unplug it, and see what happens.

e91Owner · 06-09-2021, 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FaceDeAce

New development. Probably related. I just hooked up my blue driver scan tool to the car today. It spit out some codes that the text indicate a problem with mirror. I am wondering:
- is the mirror causing the switch problem.OR
- is the switch causing a mirror code. OR
- is it something else.

Looks like my next step is to remove the mirror from the circuit, unplug it, and see what happens.

First things first, I would just order the part off of Amazon for the switch. If it fixes the problem and the codes clear after preparing it you are done. If not, it's free returns anyway.

There are always codes popping up when you disconnect things and reconnect them, so it may be a fault or just from the process of disconnecting the switch. One thing to note, the FRM can be pretty finicky. Disconnecting and reconnecting electrical components (to include the battery) and connecting ISTA to the OBD port can brick it.

FaceDeAce · 06-11-2021, 11:26 PM

Update.
Two new switches delivered. Installed. No change. No control from the switch block. Neither of the two.

Took the mirror apart. There are only 3 little wires to the plug on it. Going by the number of wires on the car end plug and the mirror plug, suggests this mirror is not heated or not folding. The car side of the plug has 5 wires, the mirror side of the plug has 3. If it isn't heated, then where is that 9CC3 coming from?

Next I started taking the footwell area apart and had to quit from losing daylight. Will go at it some more in the morning looking for a scuffed wire or `something` indicating a short or communication line break along the way. Initial look indicates quite pristine conditions under the dash. So I am really starting to feel defeated at this point. .....

e91Owner · 06-12-2021, 01:16 AM

The switch is correct and I do believe you have power folding mirrors given your equipment list as mine does with S430 as the option code. The heating should be a 2 wire connector, so it does not appear that that mirror has it. That assumes of course that the mirror was not replaced with the incorrect one. There is another post about the 9CBA fault that may help you clear it.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1479564

FaceDeAce · 06-14-2021, 12:25 AM

Thanks for the link. I have a couple of challenges with some of the info there. Mainly being I have no idea what INPA or ISTA are. I will trust in google to help me figure that out, unless someone here can bring me up to speed on those.
At the link there is also reset sequence described of hold the switches this way roll window down, hold that way roll window up and hold etc. Not applicable here as there is not up/down control of the window at all. How could I reset something that isn't responding at all.
The fuses are fine, I went through every single one, every one, all 80-90 of them. Checked each with continuity meter. So, definitely not a fuse.
I read somewhere something crazy about the controls for the windows being on a circuit board in the drivers mirror. WTH?! Also in another place that a mirror motor fault would affect the communications line to the whole circuit. Well ... maybe there is something to that. Since the error code that is displayed on the scan tool says a mirror circuit defect. So I went after the mirror. I got it down to the point that am ready to cut a wire to eliminate said short, but which one? Where would I find a wiring diagram for this? Which includes the function of each of the wire colours of course.
I can verify that there is a power folding motor on this mirror (blue+white wires). There is also a flat plug with 4 wires that go from that black puck, assuming a circuit board under there. Those goto the back of the mirror glass which looks to me like heated mirror and possibly a light sensor (auto dim, auto tilt?).
It is interesting that only three tiny wires goto the mirror puck from the car plug, but there are 6 wires coming out of it. Two wires go to the folding motor and 4 wires goto the ribbon plug on the back of the mirror glass. I feel like I may be getting close to the root? But which is it and what do to about it.
Lastly, I went through all the wiring through the entire door right up to the footwell module. Unplugged and inspected everything. Nothing is obvious. Next step will be to get the meter and do continuity checks. Since there are so many wires, same question comes up, that is which wires colours should I be focused on?

NB: Battery was disconnected for an hour before I started pulling any plugs or replugging.

FaceDeAce · 06-14-2021, 02:28 PM

Update. Found the problem. FIXED!
A real needle in the haystack type of problem that could only have been found by combing through strand by strand with a meter connected at each end. What I found was one of the two white/brown wires had a break in it somewhere. Took some close looking with mag glasses on to find a spot which had a pinhole and under that hole the copper had turned to dust. The cause was likely someone had needle probed the wire sometime in the car`s past and had not sealed the probe hole. Over time, the wire exposed to the hole rusted off.
I cut out the 1/4 inch length of green dusted wire. Twisted fresh ends together. Checked with meter and got a positive result. Plugged in the old switch et voila! Everything working as it should. I then went back and cut most of the affected wire out and solder spliced in a new piece. Finally, put the car back together, cleaned up the tools, and went for. a rip.
Btw, none of the replacement switches worked. Only the original switch worked, ... after the teeny tiny issue was found by continuity checks and resolved by chopping it out.

e91Owner · 06-14-2021, 07:26 PM

Toy probably have already looked by now, but I would get ISTA over INPA if you plan on keeping the car and doing your own maintenance.

TurboMeTroy · 07-27-2022, 08:42 PM

WOW @ FaceDeAce...
so much patience. way more patience than i have.

We basically have the same car and I have a similar issue that began with me trying to install an aftermarket radio (I see you have one installed!?).

Not my driver's door window switch doesn't work - no idea how or why or htf it's related; but possibly some fuse along the way. I too checked every.single.frickin' fuse and they are all fine. my stock radio works, but door still does not.

any tips or tricks? It would be strange to have a similar shorted wire in the loom of the driver's door, eh?

Thanks in advance.....

Thread is over here -->

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1941762

06-05-2021, 02:50 PM	#1
FaceDeAce Work hard, Play harder 5 Rep 19 Posts Drives: BMW 2009 328 xDrive Join Date: Jun 2021 Location: Canada iTrader: (0) Garage List 2009 BMW 328 xDrive [0.00]	Master window switch problems Hi all. New to the group and looking forward to learning what I can and helping where I can. We just recently put a new2us BMW on the driveway. It is a 4 door, 2009, 328 xdrive with manual 6 speed. Have never had a BMW before and so is going to be a bit of a learning curve as it reveals its secrets. Should not be too bad though, lots of experience with other vehicles here. The first significant issue I am having trouble sorting out is the drivers door master window switch block. It does not work. The windows are completely non responsive to it. When I turn the headlamps on, the backlighting on the switch lights up fine, so it is at least getting control power. There is just no control of the windows or the mirrors from the drivers block. The switches on the armrests at the rear windows and passenger window work just fine, windows go up and down when using those switches. The problem is isolated to the drivers door master switch block. I asked the previous owner about it. He said that as the third owner himself, he never could get it to work. He `thinks` that he may have installed a different (used) switch block and it still did not work for him and he gave up. So effectively I am going from a historical scratch point on it. Starting with the basics I have checked all the fuses and traced the wiring and plugs. Took the door completely apart, including removing and inspecting the harness up to the a-pillar plug. Have not found any problems. The wiring and connection blocks are pristine. I took the switch out and took it apart down to the circuit board, again nothing obvious internally to the switch circuit board etc. Looks good in there too. So I am down to it is either a faulty switch block needing replacement or a car-sorfware issue. For software, I have disconnected the battery and let the car sit for 30 minutes. Hoping for a reset of some sort. No change there, windows still do not work from the drivers switch block. Though the xdrive and other systems did give reset-reboot messages in the dash mini window screen. Also as a hardware/software test; On the keyless fob, I push and held the unlock/arrow button. All the windows opened, including the sunroof, and the drivers door window. I can close the 3 windows and sunroof from their respective switches on the armrests and the roof console, but can close any of them from the drivers switch block nor can I close the drivers window. After some online searching I discovered the trick with using the actual door key. Turn clockwise and hold, all windows open. Turn CCW and all windows close, including the drivers window. So I know the window motors work, the fuses are fine, the wiring is fine, and the computer control of all of the windows is fine. That leaves me after the hours of checking and testing, with I think is just an actual drivers switch block replacement. First question, is this actually a common part to fail on these BMW cars? that would be odd for such a simple device. I have never ever had such on any of my other vehicles. Next question, when I look online for replacements there seem to be quite a few different ones specified. Such as w - w/o folding mirrors, w-w/o memory seats etc and each possible combination of those features. Does which replacement switch is used really matter? I mean really, actual real world matter. Why complicate such a simple thing? Also why in the heck are they so expensive? I have kids toys with much more complicated electronics in them that cost pennies on the dollar. How do I determine the right switch part number for this car? The car does have memory seat buttons on the seat side, but I do not know if it has folding mirrors because the switch does not work at all. Also I cannot go off of the switch that is in there now as per previous owners comments I do not trust that it is the correct one. I will post a picture of it and its part number shortly so maybe an expert here can back check numbers. At this point I believe I have exhausted the possibilities. at least those that I can think of, and am ready to order a new switch. I just not sure of which one to get. Have I missed anything? Have you any other guiding thoughts or comments? Thanks. Last edited by FaceDeAce; 06-05-2021 at 08:06 PM..
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06-05-2021, 03:09 PM	#2
FaceDeAce Work hard, Play harder 5 Rep 19 Posts Drives: BMW 2009 328 xDrive Join Date: Jun 2021 Location: Canada iTrader: (0) Garage List 2009 BMW 328 xDrive [0.00]	Here is the existing switch block. May or may not be the right one for this car. Let me know ... if you know ... it that matters. Attached Images
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06-05-2021, 07:50 PM	#4
FaceDeAce Work hard, Play harder 5 Rep 19 Posts Drives: BMW 2009 328 xDrive Join Date: Jun 2021 Location: Canada iTrader: (0) Garage List 2009 BMW 328 xDrive [0.00]	Great. Hey, thanks for that link. Plugged in last bit of the VIN and it spit out a nice list of parts. Focusing in on the list of master window switch blocks, in black, looks like there are three options to choose from. See screenshot. Getting closer, yay! By process of elimination of what I know of the car vs what I do not know. Known: it has power seats, with memory, which narrows it to the switches xx7327 or xx7330 I cannot see how to pick between those two, the descriptions are identical. Only difference is the Supp. column with whatever S459A S430A S313A yes/no values mean and how that would apply to this specific car. Attached Images
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06-05-2021, 09:31 PM	#6
FaceDeAce Work hard, Play harder 5 Rep 19 Posts Drives: BMW 2009 328 xDrive Join Date: Jun 2021 Location: Canada iTrader: (0) Garage List 2009 BMW 328 xDrive [0.00]	I have no way of knowing if the mirrors power fold or not as the switch does not work for anything, including the fold button. I also do not know, yet, what convenience menus are or how to use them. This 328 has a basic dash, it does not have that upper dash bubble screen and interface which I think is called idrive stuff? Any computer interface, access, is through the stick on the steering column and a mini window between the speed and rpm dials. I suppose I could take a mirror apart looking for a motor and gears indicating power folding. Overly invasive but I can do so if need be. In the meantime, an online vin decoder search shows me this. The minor options listed are the S430 and S459, I assume that means basic power mirrors but not power folding. Is that right? Attached Images Last edited by FaceDeAce; 06-05-2021 at 09:47 PM..
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06-06-2021, 08:07 AM	#7
e91Owner e91Owner 425 Rep 1,129 Posts Drives: 2011 e91 & 2010 e60 Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: Out of the Office iTrader: (0)	The menus I am referring to are on the the screen in between the tach and the speedometer. It is controlled with the wheel and the bc button on your turning signal stalk. If that is the options list for your VIN, then you just have to look at the realoem listing and match up the equals to yes. Since there is only one S430A = yes, you have the correct part already in the car and the 1st one is the part that superseded it.
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06-06-2021, 11:28 PM	#8
FaceDeAce Work hard, Play harder 5 Rep 19 Posts Drives: BMW 2009 328 xDrive Join Date: Jun 2021 Location: Canada iTrader: (0) Garage List 2009 BMW 328 xDrive [0.00]	OK thank you.
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06-07-2021, 09:27 PM	#11
FaceDeAce Work hard, Play harder 5 Rep 19 Posts Drives: BMW 2009 328 xDrive Join Date: Jun 2021 Location: Canada iTrader: (0) Garage List 2009 BMW 328 xDrive [0.00]	New development. Probably related. I just hooked up my blue driver scan tool to the car today. It spit out some codes that the text indicate a problem with mirror. I am wondering: - is the mirror causing the switch problem.OR - is the switch causing a mirror code. OR - is it something else. Looks like my next step is to remove the mirror from the circuit, unplug it, and see what happens. Attached Images Last edited by FaceDeAce; 06-07-2021 at 10:23 PM..
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06-11-2021, 11:26 PM	#13
FaceDeAce Work hard, Play harder 5 Rep 19 Posts Drives: BMW 2009 328 xDrive Join Date: Jun 2021 Location: Canada iTrader: (0) Garage List 2009 BMW 328 xDrive [0.00]	Update. Two new switches delivered. Installed. No change. No control from the switch block. Neither of the two. Took the mirror apart. There are only 3 little wires to the plug on it. Going by the number of wires on the car end plug and the mirror plug, suggests this mirror is not heated or not folding. The car side of the plug has 5 wires, the mirror side of the plug has 3. If it isn't heated, then where is that 9CC3 coming from? Next I started taking the footwell area apart and had to quit from losing daylight. Will go at it some more in the morning looking for a scuffed wire or `something` indicating a short or communication line break along the way. Initial look indicates quite pristine conditions under the dash. So I am really starting to feel defeated at this point. ..... Attached Images
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06-12-2021, 01:16 AM	#14
e91Owner e91Owner 425 Rep 1,129 Posts Drives: 2011 e91 & 2010 e60 Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: Out of the Office iTrader: (0)	The switch is correct and I do believe you have power folding mirrors given your equipment list as mine does with S430 as the option code. The heating should be a 2 wire connector, so it does not appear that that mirror has it. That assumes of course that the mirror was not replaced with the incorrect one. There is another post about the 9CBA fault that may help you clear it. https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1479564
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06-14-2021, 12:25 AM	#15
FaceDeAce Work hard, Play harder 5 Rep 19 Posts Drives: BMW 2009 328 xDrive Join Date: Jun 2021 Location: Canada iTrader: (0) Garage List 2009 BMW 328 xDrive [0.00]	Thanks for the link. I have a couple of challenges with some of the info there. Mainly being I have no idea what INPA or ISTA are. I will trust in google to help me figure that out, unless someone here can bring me up to speed on those. At the link there is also reset sequence described of hold the switches this way roll window down, hold that way roll window up and hold etc. Not applicable here as there is not up/down control of the window at all. How could I reset something that isn't responding at all. The fuses are fine, I went through every single one, every one, all 80-90 of them. Checked each with continuity meter. So, definitely not a fuse. I read somewhere something crazy about the controls for the windows being on a circuit board in the drivers mirror. WTH?! Also in another place that a mirror motor fault would affect the communications line to the whole circuit. Well ... maybe there is something to that. Since the error code that is displayed on the scan tool says a mirror circuit defect. So I went after the mirror. I got it down to the point that am ready to cut a wire to eliminate said short, but which one? Where would I find a wiring diagram for this? Which includes the function of each of the wire colours of course. I can verify that there is a power folding motor on this mirror (blue+white wires). There is also a flat plug with 4 wires that go from that black puck, assuming a circuit board under there. Those goto the back of the mirror glass which looks to me like heated mirror and possibly a light sensor (auto dim, auto tilt?). It is interesting that only three tiny wires goto the mirror puck from the car plug, but there are 6 wires coming out of it. Two wires go to the folding motor and 4 wires goto the ribbon plug on the back of the mirror glass. I feel like I may be getting close to the root? But which is it and what do to about it. Lastly, I went through all the wiring through the entire door right up to the footwell module. Unplugged and inspected everything. Nothing is obvious. Next step will be to get the meter and do continuity checks. Since there are so many wires, same question comes up, that is which wires colours should I be focused on? NB: Battery was disconnected for an hour before I started pulling any plugs or replugging. Attached Images Last edited by FaceDeAce; 06-14-2021 at 12:34 AM..
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06-14-2021, 02:28 PM	#16
FaceDeAce Work hard, Play harder 5 Rep 19 Posts Drives: BMW 2009 328 xDrive Join Date: Jun 2021 Location: Canada iTrader: (0) Garage List 2009 BMW 328 xDrive [0.00]	Update. Found the problem. FIXED! A real needle in the haystack type of problem that could only have been found by combing through strand by strand with a meter connected at each end. What I found was one of the two white/brown wires had a break in it somewhere. Took some close looking with mag glasses on to find a spot which had a pinhole and under that hole the copper had turned to dust. The cause was likely someone had needle probed the wire sometime in the car`s past and had not sealed the probe hole. Over time, the wire exposed to the hole rusted off. I cut out the 1/4 inch length of green dusted wire. Twisted fresh ends together. Checked with meter and got a positive result. Plugged in the old switch et voila! Everything working as it should. I then went back and cut most of the affected wire out and solder spliced in a new piece. Finally, put the car back together, cleaned up the tools, and went for. a rip. Btw, none of the replacement switches worked. Only the original switch worked, ... after the teeny tiny issue was found by continuity checks and resolved by chopping it out. Attached Images Last edited by FaceDeAce; 06-15-2021 at 08:41 PM..
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06-14-2021, 07:26 PM	#17
e91Owner e91Owner 425 Rep 1,129 Posts Drives: 2011 e91 & 2010 e60 Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: Out of the Office iTrader: (0)	Toy probably have already looked by now, but I would get ISTA over INPA if you plan on keeping the car and doing your own maintenance.
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07-27-2022, 08:42 PM	#18
TurboMeTroy New Member 0 Rep 20 Posts Drives: 2013 135is M-Sport Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: MPLS iTrader: (0)	WOW @ FaceDeAce... so much patience. way more patience than i have. We basically have the same car and I have a similar issue that began with me trying to install an aftermarket radio (I see you have one installed!?). Not my driver's door window switch doesn't work - no idea how or why or htf it's related; but possibly some fuse along the way. I too checked every.single.frickin' fuse and they are all fine. my stock radio works, but door still does not. any tips or tricks? It would be strange to have a similar shorted wire in the loom of the driver's door, eh? Thanks in advance..... Thread is over here --> https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1941762
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