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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Wash, Wax, Detailing and Cosmetic protection/repairs > Trashed 335i Paint - Restored and Coated with CQuartz UK



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      07-26-2015, 09:49 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Thanks guys!




Correct - when we are prepping the vehicles, we typically pressure rinse them before and after the foam soak to help loosen and remove any larger dirt particles before we begin the hand washing process. Our pressure washer is a relatively low pressure (1800 PSI max), and keeping the nozzle a reasonable distance from the vehicle makes it completely safe (you can stick your hand in front of the stream of water without any harm). I can't say I can imagine a pressure rinse to ever be able to cause any damage by means of scratching the car with the dirt on the surface... to me, wiping the car with a wash mitt has a much higher risk of damaging the paint if it is considerably dirty.

Hope that helps!


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Thanks for the clarification, it was definitely helpful. I think when I read about pressure washing previously I didn't consider how much pressure they were talking about, like you said yours was relatively low.
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      07-27-2015, 07:54 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brettb1234 View Post
Thanks for the clarification, it was definitely helpful. I think when I read about pressure washing previously I didn't consider how much pressure they were talking about, like you said yours was relatively low.
Happy to help

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      07-27-2015, 03:21 PM   #25
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What do you use on interior wood trim?
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      07-28-2015, 07:40 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by MindControl View Post
What do you use on interior wood trim?
What exactly are you looking to do to the trim?

Simply clean it or are you trying to remove defects?

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      07-28-2015, 08:48 AM   #27
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Very professional work you've done there Zach.

I had to go back twice and look at all the photos, simply unbelievable restoration you guys did.

For a process like this, what is the price range roughly?
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      07-28-2015, 09:49 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
What exactly are you looking to do to the trim?

Simply clean it or are you trying to remove defects?

Zach McGovern
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Yes just keep it sparkling clean not that its dirty and no defects but to just keep it nice, no smudges etc? I did get some 303 for the dash but didn't know what to do about the wood trim.
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      07-28-2015, 11:17 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf 335 View Post
Very professional work you've done there Zach.

I had to go back twice and look at all the photos, simply unbelievable restoration you guys did.

For a process like this, what is the price range roughly?
Thank you very much!

Prices will surely vary some depending on your location and the market in your area, however this job was billed for $1100. This service took 2 full days to complete with 2 people involved in the paint correction process.





Quote:
Originally Posted by MindControl View Post
Yes just keep it sparkling clean not that its dirty and no defects but to just keep it nice, no smudges etc? I did get some 303 for the dash but didn't know what to do about the wood trim.
I like to use something quick and easy like Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer. I simply mist some of this onto a plush microfiber towel and carefully wipe down my entire interior on a regular basis. It is great for quick cleaning and can be used on all surfaces.


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      07-28-2015, 03:08 PM   #30
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I have a question that I have always wanted to know.

How many times can you do this process before there is not enough meat in the clear coat?
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      07-28-2015, 04:29 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeyH335i View Post
I have a question that I have always wanted to know.

How many times can you do this process before there is not enough meat in the clear coat?
It depends a lot on how thick the paint is to start with, but in general a two step process like this is rather non-invasive and removes a relatively small amount of material... however that doesn't mean it should be repeated unless absolutely necessary.

With proper care, a car should never get to this level of defects, but if it did, you could usually do a multi-step correction like this many times before having to worry about running out of clear coat.

For a well cared for vehicle that would likely only require a light polish every 1-2 years, there is nothing to worry about when it comes to doing a quick polish annually or so.

Clear Coat Preservation: Are You Polishing Too Often? by Zach McGovern

Hope that helps.

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Last edited by Detailed Image; 07-29-2015 at 12:29 PM..
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      07-29-2015, 10:21 AM   #32
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^ It really does. Thanks for the link too.
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      08-19-2015, 07:49 PM   #33
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Wow, great work man!
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      08-26-2015, 12:43 PM   #34
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Thank you!

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      08-31-2015, 12:59 PM   #35
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Hi I recently purchased BFWD from you guys and plan to apply it soon. I was wondering what steps to take.
is this the proper procedure (simplified)?
1. wash car
2. claybar
3. cut/compound
4. wash
5. polish
6. wash
7. apply sealant?

Is it necessary to wash the car between all the different compounds?? and also do you have to strip all the oil off? I was planning to just shoot it down with my foam cannon and pressure washing it off. between each steps
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      08-31-2015, 01:11 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HooDat View Post
Hi I recently purchased BFWD from you guys and plan to apply it soon. I was wondering what steps to take.
is this the proper procedure (simplified)?
1. wash car
2. clay bar
3. cut/compound
4. wash
5. polish
6. wash
7. apply sealant?

Is it necessary to wash the car between all the different compounds?? and also do you have to strip all the oil off? I was planning to just shoot it down with my foam cannon and pressure washing it off. between each steps
Hey, You're going to love Blackfire Wet Diamond. It's one of my personal favorite products. I prefer to apply it using a blue fine finishing pad on a dual action polisher. Makes it extremely quick and easy to apply a thin layer of product to the entire vehicle

There is certainly no need to wash, or even rinse, the vehicle in between compounding and polishing. We will occasionally wash a vehicle after heavy compounding/cutting if there is excessive compound dust all over the vehicle, otherwise we just proceed to polishing. Again, no need to wash the vehicle after polishing before applying the sealant. The paint does not have to be prepped with a solvent to remove residual oils before applying a sealant like it does when applying a ceramic paint coating. Sealants can be applied regularly for routine maintenance after a vehicle has been washed and dried.

A brief summary of the exterior process....

-Clean Wheels & Tires
-Wash Vehicle
-Decontaminate If Needed (bug & tar remover, iron x, clay bar)
-Wash Again If Needed (if using chemicals like IronX or Bug/Tar remover, it is generally a good idea to quickly wash the car again afterwards)
-Paint Correction If Needed
-Apply Paint Protection
-Tend to smaller details (dress tires, polish exhaust, clean glass, etc etc etc)

Let me know if you've got any questions.

Zach McGovern
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      08-31-2015, 01:22 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Hey, You're going to love Blackfire Wet Diamond. It's one of my personal favorite products. I prefer to apply it using a blue fine finishing pad on a dual action polisher. Makes it extremely quick and easy to apply a thin layer of product to the entire vehicle

There is certainly no need to wash, or even rinse, the vehicle in between compounding and polishing. We will occasionally wash a vehicle after heavy compounding/cutting if there is excessive compound dust all over the vehicle, otherwise we just proceed to polishing. Again, no need to wash the vehicle after polishing before applying the sealant. The paint does not have to be prepped with a solvent to remove residual oils before applying a sealant like it does when applying a ceramic paint coating. Sealants can be applied regularly for routine maintenance after a vehicle has been washed and dried.

A brief summary of the exterior process....

-Clean Wheels & Tires
-Wash Vehicle
-Decontaminate If Needed (bug & tar remover, iron x, clay bar)
-Wash Again If Needed (if using chemicals like IronX or Bug/Tar remover, it is generally a good idea to quickly wash the car again afterwards)
-Paint Correction If Needed
-Apply Paint Protection
-Tend to smaller details (dress tires, polish exhaust, clean glass, etc etc etc)

Let me know if you've got any questions.

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com
Sweet!! Thanks for the info, can't wait to use this product! Also, what speed do you apply the sealant? I've heard mixed things from speed 1-2 and some other people saying u need atleast 3.5/4 to break down the elements or something.
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      08-31-2015, 01:34 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HooDat View Post
Sweet!! Thanks for the info, can't wait to use this product! Also, what speed do you apply the sealant? I've heard mixed things from speed 1-2 and some other people saying u need atleast 3.5/4 to break down the elements or something.
There are no abrasives or particles that need to be broken down.

Any speed will be just fine, however I typically stick to a speed 3ish on my Porter Cable 7424XP when spreading waxes and sealants.



Unlike paint correction/polishing, there is no need to maintain pad rotation while waxing/sealing. Just spread the product around at a low speed and you're good to go.

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      08-31-2015, 01:56 PM   #39
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From Matte finish to Glossy! Awesome work haha.
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