[b1mmr]

Originally Posted by aaron_

Picked up my car in oct 2015 (unmodified n55). Within 2 weeks charge pipe had blown; bought an ER race works one from n54tuning.

Since then jb4 has gone in (will stay until custom dyno tune once fbo), sealed CAI, 7" FMIC. Maybe the stocker would have gone anyway.......but if you plan on modding I'd probably just get one before it leaves you on the side of the road. Just wait for a second hand one here and buy it. When you're desperate, you have no choice but new.

As for jbspeed, I bought a set of gloss black grills off a forum member who bought lci ones instead of pre facelift. Didn't deal with them directly but the product is good!


On a side note. I wouldn't get a jb4 again. Not new anyway. For $500 second hand I might. Not really a fan.......

I think I'd sell mine hehehe.. Only thing I'd miss is the ease of connection for logging that doesn't use the obd port, potentially owning the Bluetooth adapter in the future, and boost gauge.

[ash335]

Originally Posted by R32GOJIRA

Welcome to N54 land.
You will be in good hands on this forum.
There is an abundance of knowledge and many helpful peoples
As for grilles, i personally like the gloss black with a touch of flair.

Cheers mate, the more I look at them... the more I like the idea of the gloss black with m stripe...

Originally Posted by vtl

Have a look here for tools:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=19323691

Awesome list... gonna have to chip away at that slowly!



A few maintenance q's...

I've had a good look through all the previous owners receipts... For ref... Current Odo is 104k

Oil - Last oil change 09/14 at 85k... eek! Will have to do this ASAP.

Brakes - Front pads/rotors replaced at 91k, Rear pads/rotors replaced at 103k. Last Brake fluid service was at 85k. When replacing the rear pads/rotors would they have replaced the brake fluid?

Sparks - Last changed at 47k, will replace along with the coil packs.

?VANOS - One receipt says 2x solenoid valves replaced at 59k, cost was $730. Are they the VANOS solenoids? Any preventative maintenance here?

Fuel Pump - They guy said he had the fuel pump replaced, but on further inspection of his receipts it would appear at 44k he had the fuel filter and regulator replaced only... ?Preventative Maintenance?

Tyres - Currently have Bridgestone S001 RFTs on... they were put on in 09/14 at 85k... might just stick with these and save up for some non-RFs later.

Intake valves - Did notice on one of the BMW Receipts... Chemical Engine Flush for Carbon Build Up... Anyone know anything about this? WB planned for Saturday...

Lastly...

Just got my K+DCAN Cable (from supplier mentioned in Aussie MHD thread) and OTG Cable (ebay)..
Having connection issues...
I have tried the 'Trial Carly' app and the 'MHD Flasher' app... both recognise the cable, but fail to connect to the ECU. Carly constantly is telling me to by their own bluetooth module! Does the bluetooth Carly unit work for MHD flashing?
Have trialled differing orders of attaching cables, and launching apps... no dice. A battery charger shouldn't be required for just connecting to the ECU right? Mine is on the way...
Based on other threads I have seen... its likely that the cable is problematic??
Or is it that my Galaxy S6 Edge is not playing nicely with OTG... unfortunately I have no other android devices to check this...
vtl... do you have a K+DCAN/OTG cable I can use to trouble shoot my cables?

[ash335]

Originally Posted by R32GOJIRA

Here is the link to their E92 pre lci page.

http://www.jbspeed.com/e92-pre-facelift/

When searching under Pre-LCI E92 there are only two grills for non-M3... matt black or carbon fibre... or does the gloss 'M3' grill fit my 335?

[vtl]

Originally Posted by ash5584

Cheers mate, the more I look at them... the more I like the idea of the gloss black with m stripe...



Awesome list... gonna have to chip away at that slowly!



A few maintenance q's...

I've had a good look through all the previous owners receipts... For ref... Current Odo is 104k

Oil - Last oil change 09/14 at 85k... eek! Will have to do this ASAP.

Brakes - Front pads/rotors replaced at 91k, Rear pads/rotors replaced at 103k. Last Brake fluid service was at 85k. When replacing the rear pads/rotors would they have replaced the brake fluid?

Sparks - Last changed at 47k, will replace along with the coil packs.

?VANOS - One receipt says 2x solenoid valves replaced at 59k, cost was $730. Are they the VANOS solenoids? Any preventative maintenance here?

Fuel Pump - They guy said he had the fuel pump replaced, but on further inspection of his receipts it would appear at 44k he had the fuel filter and regulator replaced only... ?Preventative Maintenance?

Tyres - Currently have Bridgestone S001 RFTs on... they were put on in 09/14 at 85k... might just stick with these and save up for some non-RFs later.

Intake valves - Did notice on one of the BMW Receipts... Chemical Engine Flush for Carbon Build Up... Anyone know anything about this? WB planned for Saturday...

Lastly...

Just got my K+DCAN Cable (from supplier mentioned in Aussie MHD thread) and OTG Cable (ebay)..
Having connection issues...
I have tried the 'Trial Carly' app and the 'MHD Flasher' app... both recognise the cable, but fail to connect to the ECU. Carly constantly is telling me to by their own bluetooth module! Does the bluetooth Carly unit work for MHD flashing?
Have trialled differing orders of attaching cables, and launching apps... no dice. A battery charger shouldn't be required for just connecting to the ECU right? Mine is on the way...
Based on other threads I have seen... its likely that the cable is problematic??
Or is it that my Galaxy S6 Edge is not playing nicely with OTG... unfortunately I have no other android devices to check this...
vtl... do you have a K+DCAN/OTG cable I can use to trouble shoot my cables?

Change your plugs, your car will probably misfire immediately when you put a tune on it.

Buy a new set of decent tyres now and sell the run flats on the forum. I wish I did that, drove the car for almost a year before putting proper tyres on it. By far the single best mod I have put on the car.

Chemical flush for carbon build up - As far as I know they don't do walnut blasting at the dealers here so this is just crap that does not do anything. On Saturday you will see dirty valves. No amount of chemical cleaning will get that hard baked stuff off.

Have you got a white or green PCB in your cable? If it recognises it plugged in your phone is good but the cable is a dud. I have a working cable at home. Don't buy the carly cable. A DCAN is all you need.

[b1mmr]

Best cable is bimmer software.

And he's right.. It'll misfire immediately. :

[R32GOJIRA]

Originally Posted by ash5584

When searching under Pre-LCI E92 there are only two grills for non-M3... matt black or carbon fibre... or does the gloss 'M3' grill fit my 335?

Not too sure, but i think the M3 version is a little different.
Just send him an email and tell him exactly what you are after, and im sure he will have it in stock.
Im pretty sure the pricing will be the same as the M3 version too.

[ash335]

Walnut blast completed! Thanks vtl... great work! Highly recommend!
Just checking out some tools to get me started...
What do you think of these two?

3/8" Torque Wrench

Sockets and More

[Flex68]

Originally Posted by ash5584

Walnut blast completed! Thanks vtl... great work! Highly recommend!
Just checking out some tools to get me started...
What do you think of these two?

3/8" Torque Wrench

Sockets and More

I just bought a tti 3/8 torque wrench from total tools and a 1/4 torque wrench from super cheap as I have a trade card

[vtl]

Originally Posted by ash5584

Walnut blast completed! Thanks vtl... great work! Highly recommend!
Just checking out some tools to get me started...
What do you think of these two?

3/8" Torque Wrench

Sockets and More

FYI heres the link to my 3/8 torque wrench:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Draper-54...cAAOSwwpdW2FZf

Its a bit better quality and I think worth the extra money in my opinon.

The socket set looks like it covers a lot of sizes so should get you started, no idea on the quality though. I usually don't like ratchets with rubber grips, I find them too bulky and the grips just absorb the oil dirt and grease. I prefer the ones like the Stanley ratchets where they are just made out of metal.

The set will definitely allow you to remove a lot of stuff on the car except for the big stuff like suspension/drivetrain related stuff. You'll find that the bigger sockets in the set (e.g the 18mm) won't be too useful unless you get a ratchet with a long handle.

[_ink]

Originally Posted by bradsm87

Agreed. I just don't like to mod for nothing. There have been cases of charge pipes breaking but I think the issue has been inflated and spread hugely by forum users and by charge pipe vendors and it's now ended up on people's first mod list. Same goes for factory diverter valves. Factory diverter valves are great. People think plastic is the enemy but if it works, then great.

Mate, I'm in a war with plastic!! I hate it when it comes to engine (bay) components.

[PG]

this Stanley set will do just fine for beginners and pretty good price too:

https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/237462

[ash335]

Originally Posted by PG

this Stanley set will do just fine for beginners and pretty good price too:

Thanks for the link. I did see this one, but noticed that most of it was imperial, and I think there weren't any torx/etorx bits.

Originally Posted by vtl

FYI heres the link to my 3/8 torque wrench:

Dang, I already put the order through for the other one... guess I'll see how it goes, upgrade later if it not so good.

Thanks for the help guys
Now just have to wait for presents from the post man!

[Socket]

With the cables not connecting make sure you gave key in the ignition and start car without your foot on the brake. The dash lights should light up and you should get the usual seat belt warning ding. Now try and connect using the cables

[vtl]

Originally Posted by Socket

With the cables not connecting make sure you gave key in the ignition and start car without your foot on the brake. The dash lights should light up and you should get the usual seat belt warning ding. Now try and connect using the cables

Looked at his cable and it was a white pcb so I knew immediately it wouldn't work, green pcb is the one thats works. Tested his otg cable and phone with my cable and it connected no issues.

[Socket]

Originally Posted by vtl

Looked at his cable and it was a white pcb so I knew immediately it wouldn't work, green pcb is the one thats works. Tested his otg cable and phone with my cable and it connected no issues.

i see

[ash335]

Originally Posted by Socket

With the cables not connecting make sure you gave key in the ignition and start car without your foot on the brake. The dash lights should light up and you should get the usual seat belt warning ding. Now try and connect using the cables

I did try that method too. No dice... no major dramas... seller refunded, and doesnt even want me to send the cable back.
I have a vtl approved cable on order

[Socket]

Originally Posted by ash5584

I did try that method too. No dice... no major dramas... seller refunded, and doesnt even want me to send the cable back.
I have a vtl approved cable on order

Sorry to hear you got a dodge cable mate.. will be all sorted when you get as new one

[ash335]

Ok, so I'm about to get my oil. I have read through the prior (hundreds of) threads/posts on this matter, and am probably going to go with the simple Castrol Edge w/ Titanium Tech from SCA (regretting I didn't know I'd have the car last Bathurst sale :s)...

Anyway... the question has come up a few times before, but there appears to be no consensus on result...

5w30 or 5w40?

BMW dealer standard is 5w30... is there any reason NOT to go with the 5w40. I know its a few dollars more, but if it will provide better hot engine protection without losing anything then its a no brainer.

Any reason not to go with Castrol?

[bradsm87]

5w40 or 0w40 for the win. 5w30 is too thin when hot IMO, especially for a modified car. I use Nulon 0w40 which is a true group IV synthetic oil and can be had for around $65 for 5L.

[DR-JEKL]

The castrol edge is a great BFYB product, are there better options out there most definately but generally they're much more expensive.

For most guys 5k kay oil changes using the Castrol edge is the most economical oil to use when bought on sale from SCA or repco.

When the specials are on go crazy and buy 20L as it keeps for a few years if stored when sealed and most guys will do 5k kays in 6 months.

FWIW I use mobil 1 0W40 I bought it in bulk a few years ago for a great price (by memory around $50-60 for 5 quarts from the USA)

[ash335]

Originally Posted by bradsm87

5w40 or 0w40 for the win. 5w30 is too thin when hot IMO, especially for a modified car. I use Nulon 0w40 which is a true group IV synthetic oil and can be had for around $65 for 5L.

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

FWIW I use mobil 1 0W40 I bought it in bulk a few years ago for a great price (by memory around $50-60 for 5 quarts from the USA)

Hmmm.. seems like 0w40 is the go then?
On the bobistheoilguy forums... seem to have mixed reviewed about nulon, regarding their specifications...
Might stick with Castrol for the 1st change.
Thanks guys for the input.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by ash5584

Hmmm.. seems like 0w40 is the go then?
On the bobistheoilguy forums... seem to have mixed reviewed about nulon, regarding their specifications...
Might stick with Castrol for the 1st change.
Thanks guys for the input.

0W40 is my choice as basically my opinion is you want the thinnest oil to provide good startup protection during daily driving and can handle high temps during stop start traffic or spirited driving to resist oil shear and when you're pushing out more HP than standard as the N54 runs quite hot compared to most engines out there..

The nulon 0W40 is E85 compatiable and LL01 approved I wouldnt hesitate to spend a few extra bucks and buy that over the castrol (I'm cynical that nulon are selling a group IV ester oil for $65 though brad??? )