[hate2writej]

Originally Posted by ssshake

In my experience it's one of two things. 90% chance it's coding. You probably have the unit set to use logic 7 or vice versa. 10% chance you have an optical amp and left the circuit incomplete like I did when I did the retrofit.

Do you know if yours is optical or not? You either have two optical wires into the back of the CIC or you have like 30 wires.

Did you do a full non-idrive to idrive retro or just a CCC to CIC. I did a full non-idrive retrofit and I forgot to reconnect the optical jump which is by the drivers right foot.

Best pic i got before install

[AWDBooSTIn90]

Originally Posted by hate2writej

I went, no idrive.. To cic

Any suggestions ? I believe i have optical


Not sure what you meant about the "right foot" part

Please help :

On the drivers side kick panel that is required to be removed to remove the dash contains an optical test/programming port. When you remove the kick panel, you remove the optical connector which is a bridge between the two optical fiber wires in the drivers footweel kick panel. So with that removed you basically have an incomplete loop, and therefore no auio or data being transmitted on the MOST audio fiber network.

So first check that. And either way the CIC head-unit needs to be VO coded with a blank .MAN file AFTER the VO has been changed to remove old radio and to add navi, and any other options you retrofitted (voice commands, Combox, usb audio, bluetooth, etc) Also the vehicle date must be changed which is part of the VO change process. Its the first #xxxx posted on the vehicle order. For example, to change it to a date after a 2009 produced car that would have a CIC system. #03/10 or 0310#. I forget exactly how it looks its been a while, but you'll see exactly what I'm talking about when you go do it.

If you can't figure it out, then google E90 vehicle order change DIY. After that is all done and the new VO is stored in the CAS and FRM. Close NCSEXPERT, reopen and "code all car." It will code the car to default based on the vehicle order typed in and the production date entered.

[hate2writej]

Originally Posted by AWDBooSTIn90

On the drivers side kick panel that is required to be removed to remove the dash contains an optical test/programming port. When you remove the kick panel, you remove the optical connector which is a bridge between the two optical fiber wires in the drivers footweel kick panel. So with that removed you basically have an incomplete loop, and therefore no auio or data being transmitted on the MOST audio fiber network.

So first check that. And either way the CIC head-unit needs to be VO coded with a blank .MAN file AFTER the VO has been changed to remove old radio and to add navi, and any other options you retrofitted (voice commands, Combox, usb audio, bluetooth, etc) Also the vehicle date must be changed which is part of the VO change process. Its the first #xxxx posted on the vehicle order. For example, to change it to a date after a 2009 produced car that would have a CIC system. #03/10 or 0310#. I forget exactly how it looks its been a while, but you'll see exactly what I'm talking about when you go do it.

If you can't figure it out, then google E90 vehicle order change DIY. After that is all done and the new VO is stored in the CAS and FRM. Close NCSEXPERT, reopen and "code all car." It will code the car to default based on the vehicle order typed in and the production date entered.

Thanks, I actually don't remember if I had anything in the kick panel,
I remember a bluetooth antenna? and the cable for the light....
There might have been something else to unplug/plug down there but I don't remember honestly....

anyway... So I did not really know about the fibre optic cables in these cars. And I never saw anything about it mentioned in the retrofits I read so thank you guys for your input. I used a harness adapter with my emulator so that I would not have to cut any wiring.... so what I did was take out the fibre optic cables from the original harness plug, and transfer them to the adapter harness plug. So now thats set.

I also plugged in original radio to test everything and make sure I didn't damage the cables. The original radio still works fine and I have sound.

So now I have the fibre optic cables in the right place, and again thank you for mentioning that because I would not have known. I completely overlooked it when doing the install.... i just looked at the adapter harness and thought, damn... it has so many wires compared to mine....
then proceeded to install

Here's where I'm At:

Fibre optic cables are in the right place

I still have no sound

I'm getting the car coded tomorrow.... I have no problem taking the interior apart but I don't mess with coding... a lot to learn and i feel like I can do some serious harm if not done correctly.

So i have some questions,

Can the car get coded with the emulator in place ? or do i need to unplug the emulator +adapter harness first....

If I have to unplug the harness adapter and emulator...
I will just be left with my original cars plug... that means the cic controller won't be connected either.. is that ok ? or does the controller also need to be connected for the coding? (this is if i have to take the emulator off)

Also, Ive read that when you get no sound (like my case)... to update the Amp.
When you do the coding as you mentioned above... does that update the amp as well?

I was going to have the amp updated using ICOM

again, I'm not doing any of the coding or the ICOM work, all my mechanic

All he needs to do is what you mentioned there in your post? I don't believe he's ever done a nav retrofit coding like this so I just kind of want to have info prepared for him so we can head in the right direction fairly quick.

Thank you guys for all your help

[AWDBooSTIn90]

Originally Posted by hate2writej

Thanks, I actually don't remember if I had anything in the kick panel,
I remember a bluetooth antenna? and the cable for the light....
There might have been something else to unplug/plug down there but I don't remember honestly....

anyway... So I did not really know about the fibre optic cables in these cars. And I never saw anything about it mentioned in the retrofits I read so thank you guys for your input. I used a harness adapter with my emulator so that I would not have to cut any wiring.... so what I did was take out the fibre optic cables from the original harness plug, and transfer them to the adapter harness plug. So now thats set.

I also plugged in original radio to test everything and make sure I didn't damage the cables. The original radio still works fine and I have sound.

So now I have the fibre optic cables in the right place, and again thank you for mentioning that because I would not have known. I completely overlooked it when doing the install.... i just looked at the adapter harness and thought, damn... it has so many wires compared to mine....
then proceeded to install

Here's where I'm At:

Fibre optic cables are in the right place

I still have no sound

I'm getting the car coded tomorrow.... I have no problem taking the interior apart but I don't mess with coding... a lot to learn and i feel like I can do some serious harm if not done correctly.

So i have some questions,

Can the car get coded with the emulator in place ? or do i need to unplug the emulator +adapter harness first....

If I have to unplug the harness adapter and emulator...
I will just be left with my original cars plug... that means the cic controller won't be connected either.. is that ok ? or does the controller also need to be connected for the coding? (this is if i have to take the emulator off)

Also, Ive read that when you get no sound (like my case)... to update the Amp.
When you do the coding as you mentioned above... does that update the amp as well?

I was going to have the amp updated using ICOM

again, I'm not doing any of the coding or the ICOM work, all my mechanic

All he needs to do is what you mentioned there in your post? I don't believe he's ever done a nav retrofit coding like this so I just kind of want to have info prepared for him so we can head in the right direction fairly quick.

Thank you guys for all your help

I believe the coding can be done with the emulator in place,but i dont have one so i cant really comment. I thought the only job for the emulator was to trick the cic to make the navi work with no activation codes.

And switching the fiber cables to the new adapter harness is absolutely necessary. With that plugged in correctly. The reason the stock radio works is because the stock radio is coded to the cars original settings and your basically right back where you started minus all the new hardware installed in the car.

So the cic needs to be coded to match options and configuration of your particular car.

The mechanic will know what to do if he has an ICOM. I've never had to update an amp either so i cant comment on that either. I don't think the amp should need any updating because you're not changing the audio system technically, you're just changing what is sending the audio signal to amp: the CIC head-unit instead of the old standard radio.

[smithf80]

Originally Posted by hate2writej

Thanks, I actually don't remember if I had anything in the kick panel,
I remember a bluetooth antenna? and the cable for the light....
There might have been something else to unplug/plug down there but I don't remember honestly....

anyway... So I did not really know about the fibre optic cables in these cars. And I never saw anything about it mentioned in the retrofits I read so thank you guys for your input. I used a harness adapter with my emulator so that I would not have to cut any wiring.... so what I did was take out the fibre optic cables from the original harness plug, and transfer them to the adapter harness plug. So now thats set.

I also plugged in original radio to test everything and make sure I didn't damage the cables. The original radio still works fine and I have sound.

So now I have the fibre optic cables in the right place, and again thank you for mentioning that because I would not have known. I completely overlooked it when doing the install.... i just looked at the adapter harness and thought, damn... it has so many wires compared to mine....
then proceeded to install

Here's where I'm At:

Fibre optic cables are in the right place

I still have no sound

I'm getting the car coded tomorrow.... I have no problem taking the interior apart but I don't mess with coding... a lot to learn and i feel like I can do some serious harm if not done correctly.

So i have some questions,

Can the car get coded with the emulator in place ? or do i need to unplug the emulator +adapter harness first....

If I have to unplug the harness adapter and emulator...
I will just be left with my original cars plug... that means the cic controller won't be connected either.. is that ok ? or does the controller also need to be connected for the coding? (this is if i have to take the emulator off)

Also, Ive read that when you get no sound (like my case)... to update the Amp.
When you do the coding as you mentioned above... does that update the amp as well?

I was going to have the amp updated using ICOM

again, I'm not doing any of the coding or the ICOM work, all my mechanic

All he needs to do is what you mentioned there in your post? I don't believe he's ever done a nav retrofit coding like this so I just kind of want to have info prepared for him so we can head in the right direction fairly quick.

Thank you guys for all your help

Yes you can code with the emulator there.

I don't think your amp needs an update. Its more than likely your CIC headunit is just coded for Logic7 and you don't have it, or the other way around.

[hate2writej]

Thank you guys for all of your help!!
Took my car to miamibimmercoding.com

My mechanic that was going to do it originally said he did not work with aftermarket softwares (ncsexpert) and that he couldnt change VO

So I contacted miamibimmercoding.com for the coding, and proceeded along...
We did all the coding as mentioned here, but I still had no sound.
So I mentioned that perhaps we'd need to update the amp, as mentioned

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1191466


He updated the amp using ICOM
And we have sound!

Then he did some more coding to make the cic work 100%
( I dont know what he did at this point) but he made it so all the vehicle info was working
Coded the cluster as well,

Now everything works!
Couldnt be happier

If you are in the south FL area be sure to contact miamibimmercoding.com

They can get your set up working

I went from no idrive, to cic
They were shocked i went through the trouble,
Glad they were able to bring all my hard work to life!

Thank you guys on here for all your help as well!
If anyone has any questions about the wiring / installation feel free to message me and Ill give advice to best of my knowledge

I did a basic cic retrofit
Im not prepared to tackle the whole combox mission yet

My car : 2007 335i with Logic 7 amp and fiberoptic

[ArcticRik]

I will be tackling this project here in a few weeks and have started doing my homework to do so! Hopefully it all works out!

I have access to a wrecked e90 that has CCC in it from the factory. Other than the dashboard, what other wiring or component should I grab from it to complete my non idrive to CIC?

Also, I'm confused about wiring the CID, since I'm going non idrive I dont have that plug is that correct? So how does the CID get power?

[Sensible_]

Originally Posted by ArcticRik

I will be tackling this project here in a few weeks and have started doing my homework to do so! Hopefully it all works out!

I have access to a wrecked e90 that has CCC in it from the factory. Other than the dashboard, what other wiring or component should I grab from it to complete my non idrive to CIC?

Also, I'm confused about wiring the CID, since I'm going non idrive I dont have that plug is that correct? So how does the CID get power?

There a couple of ways CID gets power.

1. Factory Retrofit way (best IMHO) - wire CID to JBE. It's like 4 pins to x14272 connector Very easy.

2. Quicker method - Splice into CIC harness / emulator and ground it.

[ArcticRik]

Originally Posted by Sensible_

There a couple of ways CID gets power.

1. Factory Retrofit way (best IMHO) - wire CID to JBE. It's like 4 pins to x14272 connector Very easy.

2. Quicker method - Splice into CIC harness / emulator and ground it.

How or where would I ground if I wired via the emulator?

[Ermis]

Originally Posted by hate2writej

Thanks! I did not get this notification, actually another member PMd it to me but thanks for the help

I just finished installing everything into the car... Running an emulator...
However I dont get sound.
Songs stay at 0:00

Ive read that I just have to update the Amp?
Or is this because I need coding?

can you please pm me the wiring of the controller where it should be connected to non module?I am in the same position which you were at that time.

[Mkals]

Does anyone have this pdf? I can't find anything about it and one of the links that was here is from a totally strange file.

Thank you guys. I really want to make this retrofit.

[smass]

Originally Posted by Mkals

Does anyone have this pdf? I can't find anything about it and one of the links that was here is from a totally strange file.

Thank you guys. I really want to make this retrofit.

Attached. I have done this twice now. The only change I would make is to the can bus wiring for the controller. Don't hook it to the back of the CIC as that adds length to the run. There is can bus wiring you can tap into next to the parking brake that is much closer. The factory system hooks here. I got can bus interference on my aftermarket carplay system before I corrected the issue. The screen can bus is fine hooked to the back of the CIC.

[Mkals]

Originally Posted by smass

Attached. I have done this twice now. The only change I would make is to the can bus wiring for the controller. Don't hook it to the back of the CIC as that adds length to the run. There is can bus wiring you can tap into next to the parking brake that is much closer. The factory system hooks here. I got can bus interference on my aftermarket carplay system before I corrected the issue. The screen can bus is fine hooked to the back of the CIC.

Thank you very much for the file : thumsup: . Would you like to send me a private message to clear up any doubts?