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      12-30-2018, 03:48 PM   #1
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New to 335 need advice

Hey guys sorry if this post has already been made but I've been searching all around and have had trouble finding the advice I need

So I just bought a 2008 BMW 335i completely stock with 106,000 miles I have a jb4 tune coming in the mail right now and I wanted to know what are the best supporting mods to do are what are some good brands to go with and what order I should do them in
I also wanted to know what all I would need to do to start running E85
Lastly I wanted to know what issues I could be looking forward to around this mileage and any preventative maintenance I should do as of now thank you guys in advance
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      12-30-2018, 05:35 PM   #2
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Search around for more information, but the first thing you should do is make sure all your maintenance is up to date. Spark plugs, ignition coils, serpentine belt tensioner, etc are important, easy things you can do. After that common, expensive issues at that mileage include walnut blasting the intake valves, oil filter housing gasket, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, turbo seals and wastegate wear, among others. Your high pressure fuel pump fuel injectors, and water pump are also common trouble areas. The OFHG and OPG can be done very cheaply if you do the work yourself. Otherwise shops will charge you big money to do them.

Once you determine the health of your car as it sits and correct issues you should look into an aftermarket charge pipe, a bigger intercooler, an oil cooler if you don't have one, and catless downpipes. To run e85 you need to upgrade your low pressure fuel pump. Several vendors carry all this stuff. There are a million threads on here arguing which brands are best, so search for those.
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      12-30-2018, 05:42 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by srey View Post
Search around for more information, but the first thing you should do is make sure all your maintenance is up to date. Spark plugs, ignition coils, serpentine belt tensioner, etc are important, easy things you can do. After that common, expensive issues at that mileage include walnut blasting the intake valves, oil filter housing gasket, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, turbo seals and wastegate wear, among others. Your high pressure fuel pump fuel injectors, and water pump are also common trouble areas. The OFHG and OPG can be done very cheaply if you do the work yourself. Otherwise shops will charge you big money to do them.

Once you determine the health of your car as it sits and correct issues you should look into an aftermarket charge pipe, a bigger intercooler, an oil cooler if you don't have one, and catless downpipes. To run e85 you need to upgrade your low pressure fuel pump. Several vendors carry all this stuff. There are a million threads on here arguing which brands are best, so search for those.
Thanks for the advice the spark plugs and valve cover gasket were just done and the oil filter housing gasket seems to be okay so I am pretty sure all the maintenance is up to date but I was reading and people are saying you can run up to 30% e85 on a stock fuel pump is that true or do I need a whole new LPFP and would I need to tell the jb4 I'm going to run e85 or does it just do it on its own also I was going to do a DCI upgrade then downpipes then an Intercooler and Chargepipe or this there one that's more important than the other
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      12-30-2018, 06:15 PM   #4
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You can run e30 on a stock lpfp, but it's not ideal. Charge pipe, intercooler, and downpipes are all more important than DCI, and I wouldget them in that order.
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      12-30-2018, 07:17 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by srey View Post
You can run e30 on a stock lpfp, but it's not ideal. Charge pipe, intercooler, and downpipes are all more important than DCI, and I wouldget them in that order.
Okay do these come with a LPFP or a Hpfp I thought it was a high pressure one? Thanks again
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      12-30-2018, 07:32 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by dakotacoates View Post
Okay do these come with a LPFP or a Hpfp I thought it was a high pressure one? Thanks again
Both. A lpfp in the tank and a hpfp on the side of the engine block.
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      01-01-2019, 07:10 PM   #7
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I recommend pickup a jb4 BT adapter or jb4 usb cable so you can start data logging, as for E85 on stock lpfp , start with e30 (our gas tank are 15.9 gallons ) so fill up 4.24 gallons of E85 and top off with 11.66 gallons of 93 and you have the e30 mix .start logging and post your logs to the other site and they can provide you with more support !
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      01-01-2019, 07:12 PM   #8
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The first thing you should be posting about after buying a high mileage TT BMW is what maintenance you should I be doing before tuning this car.
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      01-01-2019, 07:15 PM   #9
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Oh I forgot with you new jb4 , start with map1 or map5 on E30
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      01-01-2019, 08:05 PM   #10
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The first thing you should be posting about after buying a high mileage TT BMW is what maintenance you should I be doing before tuning this car.
Okay well what maintenance should I be doing that's why I made this I just need advice
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      01-01-2019, 09:09 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Okay well what maintenance should I be doing that's why I made this I just need advice
Little busy now. Check later I'll post up what you need done.
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      01-02-2019, 11:14 PM   #12
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I would replace Spark plugs and coils first. Then I would add a DCI, Downpipes, intercooler and walnut blast intake valves. Make sure to have some money on the side for the water pump, thermostat, HPFP and fuel injectors. Don't need to replace them unless they go bad but they will go bad when you least expect it. In regards to fueling you can play with an E30 mixture with stock pump but I would wait until you have already replaced the fuel injectors.
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      01-03-2019, 03:36 PM   #13
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you obviously didnt search at all lol
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      01-04-2019, 06:42 PM   #14
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What to do first:

-spend time searching and learn as much as you can.

After that, at 100k miles:

-check for leaks at vcg(which was already replaced), oil pan, ofhg, oil Tstat gasket, and rear main seal.
Regarding your vcg - did they replace the whole cover, or just the gasket? If just the gasket, that sucks but wtv. Check that they also replaced the Pcv flapper hose, and go ahead and replace the pcv with an upgraded RB PCV.

-your a 2008, so what version dme do you have? If you have msd80, read up on dme failure so your prepared.

-also read up on PS pulley / engine mount failure so you are aware.

-while you're at it, read about fuel injectors failure too.

-consider replacing your engine mounts to prevent the PS pulley issue.

-were plugs and coils changed in the last 30k Miles? If not, replace all - it's easy and cheap to do. Or, just wait till you tune and get errors and replace them all then.

-tuning - recommend start with tune, see how it behaves and if any codes, then add charge pipe and intercooler, see how it behaves for a while. If all good, get dp's.

-small amounts of e85 work with a fresh stock pump, but might not with your tired old 100k mole original lpfp.

-how bad are your turbos rattling? Read up on how to adjust the rear turbo arm and make it go away for a while.

-all fluids should have been replaced/freshened up, except for your coolant.

-btw, has the wp been replaced? If not, it should blow up soon and leave you stranded. Replace both wp and Tstat.

What else?
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      01-04-2019, 07:39 PM   #15
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First make sure the spark plugs are new then add charge pipe and intercooler.
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      01-05-2019, 11:06 AM   #16
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good luck........
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      01-05-2019, 11:17 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad View Post
What to do first:

-spend time searching and learn as much as you can.

After that, at 100k miles:

-check for leaks at vcg(which was already replaced), oil pan, ofhg, oil Tstat gasket, and rear main seal.
Regarding your vcg - did they replace the whole cover, or just the gasket? If just the gasket, that sucks but wtv. Check that they also replaced the Pcv flapper hose, and go ahead and replace the pcv with an upgraded RB PCV.

-your a 2008, so what version dme do you have? If you have msd80, read up on dme failure so your prepared.

-also read up on PS pulley / engine mount failure so you are aware.

-while you're at it, read about fuel injectors failure too.

-consider replacing your engine mounts to prevent the PS pulley issue.

-were plugs and coils changed in the last 30k Miles? If not, replace all - it's easy and cheap to do. Or, just wait till you tune and get errors and replace them all then.

-tuning - recommend start with tune, see how it behaves and if any codes, then add charge pipe and intercooler, see how it behaves for a while. If all good, get dp's.

-small amounts of e85 work with a fresh stock pump, but might not with your tired old 100k mole original lpfp.

-how bad are your turbos rattling? Read up on how to adjust the rear turbo arm and make it go away for a while.

-all fluids should have been replaced/freshened up, except for your coolant.

-btw, has the wp been replaced? If not, it should blow up soon and leave you stranded. Replace both wp and Tstat.

What else?
This is exactly what I was looking for thank you but I put my tune in the other day and every time I get under heavy throttle my car throws a half check engine light and I get the code 30ff for low boost, i smoke tested my car under light pressure and found my Diverter valves were leaking right off the charge pipe and I also have a waste gate rattle could this be causing the low boost code? If so how do I fix the Diverter valve leak do I have to replace the whole charge pipe and valves? also if the waste gate is causing it how do I fix that? As far as maintenance the spark plugs were replaced 9k miles ago and the whole valve cover gasket assembly was replaced not just the gasket
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      01-09-2019, 05:14 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakotacoates View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad View Post
What to do first:

-spend time searching and learn as much as you can.

After that, at 100k miles:

-check for leaks at vcg(which was already replaced), oil pan, ofhg, oil Tstat gasket, and rear main seal.
Regarding your vcg - did they replace the whole cover, or just the gasket? If just the gasket, that sucks but wtv. Check that they also replaced the Pcv flapper hose, and go ahead and replace the pcv with an upgraded RB PCV.

-your a 2008, so what version dme do you have? If you have msd80, read up on dme failure so your prepared.

-also read up on PS pulley / engine mount failure so you are aware.

-while you're at it, read about fuel injectors failure too.

-consider replacing your engine mounts to prevent the PS pulley issue.

-were plugs and coils changed in the last 30k Miles? If not, replace all - it's easy and cheap to do. Or, just wait till you tune and get errors and replace them all then.

-tuning - recommend start with tune, see how it behaves and if any codes, then add charge pipe and intercooler, see how it behaves for a while. If all good, get dp's.

-small amounts of e85 work with a fresh stock pump, but might not with your tired old 100k mole original lpfp.

-how bad are your turbos rattling? Read up on how to adjust the rear turbo arm and make it go away for a while.

-all fluids should have been replaced/freshened up, except for your coolant.

-btw, has the wp been replaced? If not, it should blow up soon and leave you stranded. Replace both wp and Tstat.

What else?
This is exactly what I was looking for thank you but I put my tune in the other day and every time I get under heavy throttle my car throws a half check engine light and I get the code 30ff for low boost, i smoke tested my car under light pressure and found my Diverter valves were leaking right off the charge pipe and I also have a waste gate rattle could this be causing the low boost code? If so how do I fix the Diverter valve leak do I have to replace the whole charge pipe and valves? also if the waste gate is causing it how do I fix that? As far as maintenance the spark plugs were replaced 9k miles ago and the whole valve cover gasket assembly was replaced not just the gasket
I can't tell you without seeing where the leak is.

Regarding dv leak - sure, buy a new aftermarket cp and Decide if you want to use dvs or bov won't hurt and they're cheap.

Replace all the vacuum lines on the dv/intake manifold side.

Replace all the vacuum lines from brake booster to the turbos - can't believe I forgot to mention this in my previous message.

Your wastegates rattle could a symptom of leaky vacuum line, so do this first. At 100k likely have hole somewhere. They are difficult to visually inspect for tears so just replace them all, you'll be glad you did.

See #1 in last message and research vacuum lines diy

Also, research how to test and adjust wastegates for proper functioning if you think that's your issue.
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      01-09-2019, 07:22 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by dakotacoates View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad View Post
What to do first:

-spend time searching and learn as much as you can.

After that, at 100k miles:

-check for leaks at vcg(which was already replaced), oil pan, ofhg, oil Tstat gasket, and rear main seal.
Regarding your vcg - did they replace the whole cover, or just the gasket? If just the gasket, that sucks but wtv. Check that they also replaced the Pcv flapper hose, and go ahead and replace the pcv with an upgraded RB PCV.

-your a 2008, so what version dme do you have? If you have msd80, read up on dme failure so your prepared.

-also read up on PS pulley / engine mount failure so you are aware.

-while you're at it, read about fuel injectors failure too.

-consider replacing your engine mounts to prevent the PS pulley issue.

-were plugs and coils changed in the last 30k Miles? If not, replace all - it's easy and cheap to do. Or, just wait till you tune and get errors and replace them all then.

-tuning - recommend start with tune, see how it behaves and if any codes, then add charge pipe and intercooler, see how it behaves for a while. If all good, get dp's.

-small amounts of e85 work with a fresh stock pump, but might not with your tired old 100k mole original lpfp.

-how bad are your turbos rattling? Read up on how to adjust the rear turbo arm and make it go away for a while.

-all fluids should have been replaced/freshened up, except for your coolant.

-btw, has the wp been replaced? If not, it should blow up soon and leave you stranded. Replace both wp and Tstat.

What else?
This is exactly what I was looking for thank you but I put my tune in the other day and every time I get under heavy throttle my car throws a half check engine light and I get the code 30ff for low boost, i smoke tested my car under light pressure and found my Diverter valves were leaking right off the charge pipe and I also have a waste gate rattle could this be causing the low boost code? If so how do I fix the Diverter valve leak do I have to replace the whole charge pipe and valves? also if the waste gate is causing it how do I fix that? As far as maintenance the spark plugs were replaced 9k miles ago and the whole valve cover gasket assembly was replaced not just the gasket
I can't tell you without seeing where the leak is.

Regarding dv leak - sure, buy a new aftermarket cp and Decide if you want to use dvs or bov won't hurt and they're cheap.

Replace all the vacuum lines on the dv/intake manifold side.

Replace all the vacuum lines from brake booster to the turbos - can't believe I forgot to mention this in my previous message.

Your wastegates rattle could a symptom of leaky vacuum line, so do this first. At 100k likely have hole somewhere. They are difficult to visually inspect for tears so just replace them all, you'll be glad you did.

See #1 in last message and research vacuum lines diy

Also, research how to test and adjust wastegates for proper functioning if you think that's your issue.
So I did a smoke test on my intake to see where the leak was coming from for my low boost code and I saw the Diverter valves leaking directly off the charge pipe so I ordered a new charge pipe and converted to a blow off valve so we will see if that fixes the code but other then that I didn't see any other leaks from any lines at all so you think I should still go ahead and replace them or would that be a waste
Of time however the smoke test wasn't under high pressure
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      01-09-2019, 07:34 PM   #20
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Yes. The smoke test won't show you leaks in the vacuum lines. If your vacuum lines going over the valve cover and into the vacuum canisters, then from the cans down to the boost solenoids are wrapped in braided fabric then they are original and need to be replaced. It might be good to replace them anyway for peace of mind, unless you have a Mity Vac have pump and want to test them for leaks that way. If you don't have the hand pump already just buy vacuum hose and replace it. The hose is cheaper than the pump.
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      01-09-2019, 07:40 PM   #21
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If the diverter valve is leaking off the charge pipe, you dont order a new cp. thats an ignorant advice. One first tries replacing the diverter valve orings that can be found on ebay for $5.
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      01-09-2019, 07:42 PM   #22
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If the diverter valve is leaking off the charge pipe, you dont order a new cp. thats an ignorant advice. One first tries replacing the diverter valve orings that can be found on ebay for $5.
Sure, but the plastic cp should be replaced with a metal one prior to modding. I know some people haven't had issues with the stock cp at higher boost levels, but more have than haven't
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