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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > Car won't start after cbu cleaning



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      03-20-2015, 06:41 PM   #1
caraudio1
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Car won't start after cbu cleaning

We did it here at our shop. The car was apart for about 2 weeks (we had to fit it in between regular work) We were pretty careful on the disassembly/reassembly but now it just cranks and won't start.

I checked the codes with the Bmwhat app and got a few that included fuel rail sensor/pressure. Is there a bleeding procedure? Anyone have an idea what we might have done wrong?

Thanks!
Keith
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      03-20-2015, 07:18 PM   #2
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It took 3 rounds of cranking to get my car to start after the CBU. It would not start right away.

When I pulled the intake off, I disconnected the rear connector on the fuel rail. Did you do that and forget to put it back on?

There are ~50 other things that might not have gotten back in place.

One of the things I did was to crank the engine over by hand to be sure I had not accidentally "walnut locked" the engine. Not a bad idea if you are doing it yourself.
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      03-20-2015, 07:34 PM   #3
caraudio1
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When you say three rounds of cranking how much is that ? We have tried multiple times, letting the car turn over for about 10 seconds at a time. I don't want to overheat the starter so I let it cool after 3 or so 10 second cranks.

We did disconnect the fuel rail pressure sender on the rear of the rail (and a bunch of other stuff too!) but I've double checked that connection and all the other ones I can think of.

I loosened the hard line to the #1 injector to see if we could get fuel out of it and cranked it for a second or two and we got nothing.
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      03-20-2015, 07:37 PM   #4
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After two weeks I would forget to connect something for sure. If you are getting a code for a fuel rail pressure/sensor, that is your clue. Check all the electrical connections as well.
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      03-21-2015, 01:40 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by command_liner View Post
When I pulled the intake off, I disconnected the rear connector on the fuel rail. Did you do that and forget to put it back on?
This. I did the same thing and forgot to plug back in the rear connector on the fuel rail. Cranked and cranked and of course it didn't start. Popped hood, found the issue, plugged it back in, started up right away.
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      03-21-2015, 10:59 AM   #6
caraudio1
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It's plugged in, I've probably checked it 20 times. I still get a code 4B90 for fuel rail pressure so I've pulled the intake back off. Everything looks OK..
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      03-21-2015, 11:51 AM   #7
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Run the secondary fuel pump for 30 seconds before cranking so you at least know there's fuel available at the pump
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      03-21-2015, 12:10 PM   #8
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Fixed!

Bled the fuel rail with our pressure bleeder. Started right up! Codes are gone!
Sitting open for 2 weeks must have left too much air in the system.
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      03-21-2015, 02:17 PM   #9
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In an unrelated thread, I recall guys using their Bav tech cable to run low press pump after fuel filter change. Perhaps this might have accomplished same as what caraudio1 did? Caraudio, can you explain a little more about pressure bleeding the fuel rail please? One more question, was the fuel system opened during the intake removal/replacement before you did the bleed? If no, why would sitting 2 weeks during your work be any different than a car that just sat for 2 weeks in the garage with no work done?
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      03-21-2015, 03:21 PM   #10
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We disconnected the #1 injector line and hooked up the power bleeder to the fuel rail. Then we loosened each of the hard lines 2-6 at the injectors until fuel came out ( the pressure bleeder forces liquid not air ) we also cracked the connection at the HPFP when the injector lines were done. Started right up after that.

The fuel rail was off of the car for the entire two weeks since we had the valve cover off.
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      07-27-2016, 10:49 PM   #11
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So the pressure bleeder esentially created a suction on the fuel injector lines and drawed out the fuel?

This is most likely what i need to do.
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      08-05-2016, 11:37 AM   #12
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Bumping this thread.

Finished my CBU cleaning yesterday, went to crank it and it would not start. Cranking was slow, realized my voltage was at 11.5V so I hooked up the trickle charger overnight.

But, unlike many others, I never disconnected the fuel system. So in theory there should be no issues there. All sensors are hooked up, I triple-checked. Fuel rail sensor, swirl flap actuator, MAP sensor, EGR controller, EGR sensor, and EGR cooler pyrometer. Those are the only 6 electrical connections I had to disconnect to get the manifold off. Still no dice.
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      08-05-2016, 12:01 PM   #13
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it took me a whole day of charging and multiple starts to get mine running.
I got scared a couple times. And finally it started but I put my battery charger on high trickle wasn't enough.
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      08-05-2016, 01:13 PM   #14
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Hmmmm good to know. I'll grab my portable jumpstart pack and make sure it's fully charged too, just to give it some extra amps if needed.

Did you have problems with it running rough or anything after it finally started? Any codes?
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      08-05-2016, 04:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dazza335iC
Hmmmm good to know. I'll grab my portable jumpstart pack and make sure it's fully charged too, just to give it some extra amps if needed.

Did you have problems with it running rough or anything after it finally started? Any codes?
it originally had a miss at idle, did the carbon cleaning but it wasn't it, ended up replacing an injector. Then it was back to normal.
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      08-06-2016, 02:20 PM   #16
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After cranking for a good 60 seconds (in 15-second intervals) it finally started up. Seems to be running perfect, minus the SES light. Probably just needs a code reset.
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      08-06-2016, 04:24 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_dirtg View Post
So the pressure bleeder esentially created a suction on the fuel injector lines and drawed out the fuel?

This is most likely what i need to do.
I believe he was forcing liquid in with power bleeder, not sucking it at outlets.

Dazza, glad you finally got it started.
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      08-06-2016, 10:12 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BB_cuda View Post
I believe he was forcing liquid in with power bleeder, not sucking it at outlets.

Dazza, glad you finally got it started.

I ended up putting a hand vacuum pump on the injector supply line and created a vacuum then applied 12 volts to the lift pump, that eventually brought the fuel up and all air bubbles also.
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      07-03-2019, 08:57 AM   #19
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Had a similar issue yesterday after trying to start my US 335d after full carbon cleaning with valve cover/fuel rail removed.
Using Mik325tds' method linked below, I activated the lift pump to bring fuel to HPFP (lots of bubbling, ran pump about 4 cycles).
Then I tried to start, no cylinders firing.
Injector #6 was the lowest vertically, so I then cracked loose the nut on the injector fuel feed and cranked until I saw bubbles (1 person cranking, one person under-hood, all other injector lines tight). Cranked again until clear stream of fuel ran out between nut on injector 6 then tightened nut while still cranking.
Repeated this process on #5, then #4. I was then not able to get fuel out of #3.

At this point, I found this thread and saw caraudio1's note about the power bleeder. I don't have a power bleeder, but do have a brake vacuum hand pump.
I unscrewed #1 fuel line at the injector and slightly loosened the line at the fuel rail and hooked up a spare clear fuel line. I hooked the other end to the positive pressure side of the hand vacuum pump. Hooked another hose to the pump vacuum end and dipped it in a jug of clean diesel to suck up.
Basically a makeshift pressure bleeder (not sure if it damaged the brake line vacuum pump, don't really care).

Before pumping fuel into the rail, tighten back down the rail side nut on #1 fuel line.

With only #3 nut cracked loose at injector, I pumped fuel with the power bleeder until I saw bubbles, then a clear stream, then tightened down.

I then repeated this process with #2.

With just #1 line not primed, I cranked with #1 nut loose again until I saw bubbles then just fuel and tightened.

Another 3-4 crank attempts and she fired up.

Idled fine for about 5 min, then went down a cylinder, rough idle, limp home message.
INPA showed a cylinder 5 code. Cleared and restarted and misfire came back
I figured some debris got into system somewhere and removed #5 nut at injector, bent the line slightly away from the injector, and blasted compressed air at the top of the injector feed seat, then carb cleaner (questionable idea, not sure if I would recommend, just the air may have done it), then another blast of air and tightened everything back down. Cleared codes again and cranked (took a couple cranks again since I un-primed #5. Fired back up and no misfire.

Have only run ~60 miles since doing this, hopefully doesn't return.

If there is any interest I could make a diagram of the makeshift power bleeder.

Hope my experience helps someone out!

Electric Fuel Pump Activation:
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=90

Last edited by atomicannon; 07-03-2019 at 10:28 AM..
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