[frostedsoul]

Originally Posted by cahme

What codes were you seeing before you replaced the servo motor?
Does the indy think you need a new DME? What are they doing for that $3500?

Codes was 2E0F and 300C, 300E. Indy thought my DME was fried but it wasnt (good for me). They want to replace new valve cover, new eccentric motor and harness, eccentric shaft bearings, spark plugs.

[frostedsoul]

Originally Posted by Pladi

Did you run the ista 20 min long procedures of learning the limits ?

The shaft could only rotate to driver side (when motor spins clock-wise), when the motor tried to spin counter clock-wise to rotate the shaft to passenger side it just stuck, thats y the shaft never reach maximum lift.

[frostedsoul]

I have owned 5 BMWs so far and still have 2009 535i and 2011 335i, these are my last 2. Every single dang time I brought my vehicles in for recall, always had problems when I have them back. My 335i was smooth and pulled really hard with JB4 and catless downpipe, when I took my 335i to dealership for Vanos recall, after I drove it back home, one of the stainless steel fuel line on top the engine was leaking very bad, leaking fuel all over my hot engine, the car could have been on fire and they also broke one of valve cover bolt, and the broken bolt stuck inside the engine, I was sooo pissed.

[frostedsoul]

And one more thing I need to tell you guys, when I replaced eccentric motor, my oil feed line was clogged up really really bad, I had to use needle and carburetor cleaner to unclog and clean it. I think all BMW latest engines are manufacture fault design or peace of craps. No more BMW.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by frostedsoul

And one more thing I need to tell you guys, when I replaced eccentric motor, my oil feed line was clogged up really really bad, I had to use needle and carburetor cleaner to unclog and clean it. I think all BMW latest engines are manufacture fault design or peace of craps. No more BMW.

Off topic but to add to BMW issues :

My car the other day noticed water coming from outside during a very rainy day into the floor of the passenger side.. WTF !! even a LADA from 1960's wont have that issue. I read a few posts of people had water leaks in the e90s trunk and front ...

These issues are unheard of with any other make. BMWs leak everything that can leak, from fuel to oil to coolant to water inside

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by Pladi

Off topic but to add to BMW issues :

My car the other day noticed water coming from outside during a very rainy day into the floor of the passenger side.. WTF !! even a LADA from 1960's wont have that issue. I read a few posts of people had water leaks in the e90s trunk and front ...

These issues are unheard of with any other make. BMWs leak everything that can leak, from fuel to oil to coolant to water inside

That is a really common issue. Your sunroof drain on that side is clogged.

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by frostedsoul

And one more thing I need to tell you guys, when I replaced eccentric motor, my oil feed line was clogged up really really bad, I had to use needle and carburetor cleaner to unclog and clean it. I think all BMW latest engines are manufacture fault design or peace of craps. No more BMW.

Wouldn't matter if it was clogged. It doesn't use a banjo bolt so it's basically an oil dripper, not sprayer.

[cranelec]

Originally Posted by weehe126

That is a really common issue. Your sunroof drain on that side is clogged.

Okay...Since my portable garage should be complete by this Sunday, I decided to remove the expensive car cover off my 335 and see if it would start (it didn't). To my surprise, the trunk contained a significant amount of water in it.

[pipes777]

I have a 2012 x5 n55 motor.Had a salvage motor put info about 9,000 but having issues with valvetronic motor.The mechanic that was not specialized in BMW told me he was changing the motor because of the codes and the reduced power fault.After it was put in same reduced power fault and 4 codes----2de1...3011 camshaft installation faulty...2c58....2dd8 valvetronic servomotor, position sensors signal implausible.Cam was not touched.Need help badly everybody wants to replace everything.Car runs fine after rpm jumps for first 2 minutes of start up.Had someone put on machine to learn the new motor and no luck didn't fix.Do you think it was a bad install?how would I know?

[frostedsoul]

Finally I have got my car back on 06/12/2019, it running like a champ now, total cost was $4600 but the shop gave me $300 off so $4300. Beside replacing new eccentric motor, harness and shaft, they replace 2 vanos solenoids, 2 camshaft position sensors, new spark plugs, new valve cover. Here is the thing that I was really really lucky, when I was pulling really hard (JB4 map 5+ intercooler + catless dp) 5000-6000 rpm then I shift to next gear that when the engine shut off, there were 2 reasons why engine shut off, first was the eccentric motor and shaft, second (this is my very very lucky part) was the Jesus bolt was loosen and walked out caused the engine out of timing by alot because the crankshaft spinning but the vanos were not, this could have cost me a new engine, put holes on pistons or at least bent the valves( I was running 6000rpm), none of those happened. After all I am very happy to have my car back and only cost me $4300 to fix it, I can sleep well at night now. Lol...

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by frostedsoul

Finally I have got my car back on 06/12/2019, it running like a champ now, total cost was $4600 but the shop gave me $300 off so $4300. Beside replacing new eccentric motor, harness and shaft, they replace 2 vanos solenoids, 2 camshaft position sensors, new spark plugs, new valve cover. Here is the thing that I was really really lucky, when I was pulling really hard (JB4 map 5+ intercooler + catless dp) 5000-6000 rpm then I shift to next gear that when the engine shut off, there were 2 reasons why engine shut off, first was the eccentric motor and shaft, second (this is my very very lucky part) was the Jesus bolt was loosen and walked out caused the engine out of timing by alot because the crankshaft spinning but the vanos were not, this could have cost me a new engine, put holes on pistons or at least bent the valves( I was running 6000rpm), none of those happened. After all I am very happy to have my car back and only cost me $4300 to fix it, I can sleep well at night now. Lol...

Your funny " It could have costed me an engine"

You can buy a used engine for the money you spent on parts and labor. A used engine with less miles probably.

[frostedsoul]

Originally Posted by Pladi

Your funny " It could have costed me an engine"

You can buy a used engine for the money you spent on parts and labor. A used engine with less miles probably.

Lol... Used engine is around $2500-$3000 plus labor but who knows if it runs probably or need anything replaced, my engine is only 50k miles it had run very smooth and pulled really hard till the eccentric motor and shaft went bad.

[Age1000]

Hi All
2011 135I N55
Sounds like I'm having the same issues so I was very pleased to find this thread.
Code 2EOF valvetronic disabled too frequent adjustment. I bought the car with the issue so unsure if it was previously clicking or exhibiting any specific behaviors. Car runs fine, pretty good at idle (steady even when cold) and makes good power which tells us the shaft is disabled at max valve lift.

I have a new valve cover & VVT motor ready to fit.

Im interested in creating a definitive DIY guide for the benefit of all, so i'm suggesting the way forward is:
1) Check codes
2) Check VVT motor connector pins
3) Check loom/harness at both ends and DME pins
4) if disabled perform a re-learn of end stops
a Need ISTA for this???
b Can INPA be used???
5) if unsuccessful open up valve cover

Is it worth trying the re-learn again with the valve cover off???

6) Remove the VVT motor N55 has built in Hall sensors
7) Check the shaft for free rotation
a, If sticks lube or replace
8) Install new VVT motor
9) Check oil feed pipe for clogs
10) Can you perform the re-learn with the valve cover off to ensure all is working ok???

Thoughts........

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by Age1000

Hi All
2011 135I N55
Sounds like I'm having the same issues so I was very pleased to find this thread.
Code 2EOF valvetronic disabled too frequent adjustment. I bought the car with the issue so unsure if it was previously clicking or exhibiting any specific behaviors. Car runs fine, pretty good at idle (steady even when cold) and makes good power which tells us the shaft is disabled at max valve lift.

I have a new valve cover & VVT motor ready to fit.

Im interested in creating a definitive DIY guide for the benefit of all, so i'm suggesting the way forward is:
1) Check codes
2) Check VVT motor connector pins
3) Check loom/harness at both ends and DME pins
4) if disabled perform a re-learn of end stops
a Need ISTA for this???
b Can INPA be used???
5) if unsuccessful open up valve cover

Is it worth trying the re-learn again with the valve cover off???

6) Remove the VVT motor N55 has built in Hall sensors
7) Check the shaft for free rotation
a, If sticks lube or replace
8) Install new VVT motor
9) Check oil feed pipe for clogs
10) Can you perform the re-learn with the valve cover off to ensure all is working ok???

Thoughts........

You can say also to replace those oil spray nozzles. Fcp euro has a video on them. Def do that if u remove the valve cover

[Rube]

Originally Posted by Age1000

Hi All
2011 135I N55
Sounds like I'm having the same issues so I was very pleased to find this thread.
Code 2EOF valvetronic disabled too frequent adjustment. I bought the car with the issue so unsure if it was previously clicking or exhibiting any specific behaviors. Car runs fine, pretty good at idle (steady even when cold) and makes good power which tells us the shaft is disabled at max valve lift.

I have a new valve cover & VVT motor ready to fit.

Im interested in creating a definitive DIY guide for the benefit of all, so i'm suggesting the way forward is:
1) Check codes
2) Check VVT motor connector pins
3) Check loom/harness at both ends and DME pins
4) if disabled perform a re-learn of end stops
a Need ISTA for this???
b Can INPA be used???
5) if unsuccessful open up valve cover

Is it worth trying the re-learn again with the valve cover off???

6) Remove the VVT motor N55 has built in Hall sensors
7) Check the shaft for free rotation
a, If sticks lube or replace
8) Install new VVT motor
9) Check oil feed pipe for clogs
10) Can you perform the re-learn with the valve cover off to ensure all is working ok???

Thoughts........

If the valvetronic motor is replaced, is it imperative that the re-learn procedure be performed?

[Glene]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

Simply set the eccentric shaft to maximum lift by hand and then keep the servo motor unplugged...

If you unplug the servo, you get a message saying reduced power and car runs like...

[Glene]

Originally Posted by weehe126

Wouldn't matter if it was clogged. It doesn't use a banjo bolt so it's basically an oil dripper, not sprayer.

if that is the case, why BMW spent money to put a hole inside the nozzle?

[anjuna]

Originally Posted by Glene

if that is the case, why BMW spent money to put a hole inside the nozzle?

Even drips, at the right pressure, can spray.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by Pladi

Did you run the ista 20 min long procedures of learning the limits ?

There is no 20 minute long "learn limits" procedure. That is a FINE TUNING procedure and you shouldn't just run it just for the hell of it.

Valvetronic check and adapts it's limits just by unlocking the door (it runs from max-->min-->max) hence why when it fails you get a clicking noise when you unlock your door.

The procedures in ista are for diagnostics. The fine tuning does need to be performed after valvtronic shaft replacement but the car will learn its stop and run fine without doing it.