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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Integrated Hidden Dash Cam Setup [Updated with DIY]



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      10-14-2015, 06:48 PM   #89
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Currently writing... In the meantime, here's a sample of what kind of near collision videos you can capture! This happened last night while driving home, you can see a car on the left shoulder or land and another sliding backwards in the middle of the road.


Last edited by Pawlin; 10-14-2015 at 06:59 PM..
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      10-14-2015, 07:09 PM   #90
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Damn, that cam's got great night time vision too.
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      10-15-2015, 04:57 PM   #91
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Wow that took way longer than I thought, here it is! Again my apologies for the delay, there is always car work which needs to be done!

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...7#post18752337









Big Brother is watching.


Last edited by Pawlin; 10-15-2015 at 05:10 PM..
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      10-15-2015, 05:20 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pawlin View Post
Wow that took way longer than I thought, here it is! Again my apologies for the delay, there is always car work which needs to be done!

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...7#post18752337









Big Brother is watching.

Awesome! Thanks for the hard work.
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      10-15-2015, 05:35 PM   #93
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Thanks for this, really appreciate it.

Is there an easy way to turn the camera off? I park inside my garage so no need to have it running and using my battery at night.
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      10-15-2015, 05:38 PM   #94
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Thanks for this, really appreciate it.

Is there an easy way to turn the camera off? I park inside my garage so no need to have it running and using my battery at night.
You can configure anything to your heart's content with this camera. So yes, just pick a fuse which is only powered when your car is on or running.
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      10-15-2015, 05:47 PM   #95
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You can configure anything to your heart's content with this camera. So yes, just pick a fuse which is only powered when your car is on or running.
Well I want it to run if I'm parked in a parking lot or something. If I have it wired to fuse 73, is there something I can quickly pull out to turn it off every night?
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      10-15-2015, 05:50 PM   #96
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Well I want it to run if I'm parked in a parking lot or something. If I have it wired to fuse 73, is there something I can quickly pull out to turn it off every night?
Yup just disconnect the usb from power in your glove box. That or get the Power Magic Box which has a switch for on/off and cuts off power to the camera when your battery gets too low - that's probably your best option. However if your garage is dark, the camera will just be on standby and won't record if there's no movement. I don't worry about power draw since I drive my car regularly - maybe only disconnect if I know I won't be touching for a week or two.
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      10-15-2015, 05:56 PM   #97
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Yup just disconnect the usb from power in your glove box. That or get the Power Magic Box which has a switch for on/off and cuts off power to the camera when your battery gets too low - that's probably your best option. However if your garage is dark, the camera will just be on standby and won't record if there's no movement. I don't worry about power draw since I drive my car regularly - maybe only disconnect if I know I won't be touching for a week or two.
Thanks man!
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      10-24-2015, 03:33 PM   #98
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Work in progress

Last edited by drevan; 10-24-2015 at 05:44 PM..
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      10-26-2015, 12:51 AM   #99
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Work in progress
Looking good Same clip system mount as I used?
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      10-26-2015, 05:15 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pawlin View Post
Wow that took way longer than I thought, here it is! Again my apologies for the delay, there is always car work which needs to be done!

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...7#post18752337

Big Brother is watching.

Car is looking great! Glad she's back on the road again.
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      10-26-2015, 05:20 PM   #101
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Not exactly, i didn't liked the idea of drilling holes, i wanted clean look as much as possible.
I places the board on the same angle but i left the lens to hang as i can adjust it later.
I used a piece of rubber so the lens can hold tension and not move around or vibrate


I also ran the wire in the little hole, for that purpose i had to cut the usb cable and remove the shielding on the one end so its more agile.


Then i used a second USB cable to extend it all the way to the fuse box



And i can easily access it to transfer the needed files



I also had to make a special tool to remove my glove box, cuz i was too lazy to go to the store
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      10-26-2015, 08:10 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drevan View Post
Not exactly, i didn't liked the idea of drilling holes, i wanted clean look as much as possible.
I places the board on the same angle but i left the lens to hang as i can adjust it later.
I used a piece of rubber so the lens can hold tension and not move around or vibrate


I also ran the wire in the little hole, for that purpose i had to cut the usb cable and remove the shielding on the one end so its more agile.


Then i used a second USB cable to extend it all the way to the fuse box



And i can easily access it to transfer the needed files



I also had to make a special tool to remove my glove box, cuz i was too lazy to go to the store
Nice, looks good! I didn't have to drill any holes for my mount, only just to make room for the usb cable in which it barely shows. I ziptied the usb head onto the arm instead of the board so I can easily remove the entire camera. Also, make sure your rubber mount won't move around - I found it annoying to make sure the camera angle/field of view didn't change when putting the housing back on.

There should be an orange/red fuse puller in your fusebox already!
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      10-27-2015, 09:57 AM   #103
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The reason i zipped the board is it will transfer heat better to the mirror arm. I wont be needing to remove it anytime soon, maybe around spring time to add some type of air cooling to the heatsink on top as temperatures in the desert are harsh. Also i have easy access to remove the SD card and press the buttons without the board moving around.

The Lens moves a bit but it takes a minute or two to adjust and its good to go.
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      10-27-2015, 06:02 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drevan View Post
The reason i zipped the board is it will transfer heat better to the mirror arm. I wont be needing to remove it anytime soon, maybe around spring time to add some type of air cooling to the heatsink on top as temperatures in the desert are harsh. Also i have easy access to remove the SD card and press the buttons without the board moving around.

The Lens moves a bit but it takes a minute or two to adjust and its good to go.
Yeah you have to ziptie in your case since you still have the battery and flipped around compared to mine. That battery doesn't stand a chance in vegas climate. Make sure the ziptie doesn't tighten and wreck your board when the battery balloons.
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      10-28-2015, 09:52 AM   #105
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Yes i know the battery would be an issue, that why I'm thinking of relocating it completely, but for now it works great. I'm still debating if should i extend the light source as you did, since i don't like any blinking lights or indication i might leave it as is. An easy way to tell is just to use my phone as a mirror to see if lights are on/blinking thought the front vents.
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      10-28-2015, 01:12 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drevan View Post
Yes i know the battery would be an issue, that why I'm thinking of relocating it completely, but for now it works great. I'm still debating if should i extend the light source as you did, since i don't like any blinking lights or indication i might leave it as is. An easy way to tell is just to use my phone as a mirror to see if lights are on/blinking thought the front vents.
Highly recommended you do, definitely my favorite feature. With the light tube, you can even see the blinking LED during bright afternoons and from outside your car. This is not the case if you're peeking through the vents.
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      11-11-2015, 02:18 PM   #107
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Originally Posted by nm View Post
I just laughed so hard at this at work as I saw what you did with the monitor.


Ok so back on track, I've been slowly building up how go about this setup.
Light pipes can be bought on mouser for cheap ~$0.65. shipping is still roughly $8 though whether you buy one or 10. but it's an option for those who do not have an old electronic stash at home.
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      12-03-2015, 01:28 AM   #108
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Anyone else having trouble getting the new large "clamshell" to fit together over the mirror arm? I shaved all the parts that collide but the "hooks" in the two sides do not seem to be long enough to go into the holes in the mirror arm!

I even tried hooking one side first and then the other, but that doesn't work either:

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      12-03-2015, 12:59 PM   #109
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Anyone else having trouble getting the new large "clamshell" to fit together over the mirror arm? I shaved all the parts that collide but the "hooks" in the two sides do not seem to be long enough to go into the holes in the mirror arm!

I even tried hooking one side first and then the other, but that doesn't work either:

Are you sure you don't have anything else getting in the way of the second half preventing the hook from going in? Does the hook look like it's too short because the two halves already make contact and fit/snap together?
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      12-03-2015, 03:57 PM   #110
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Are you sure you don't have anything else getting in the way of the second half preventing the hook from going in? Does the hook look like it's too short because the two halves already make contact and fit/snap together?
Nothing else is getting in the way. Yes, the hooks seem too short because the two halves make contact and fit/snap together already. If I put a lot of pressure and deform the plastic, it brings the hooks together a little more but it's still not enough and this causes the halves to unsnap.
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