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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Early birds, early pictures. n54 rebuilt.



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      07-06-2013, 10:21 PM   #23
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Nice build!!
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      07-06-2013, 10:32 PM   #24
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Cool build! Not a huge fan of the 2 different AR housings. I understand the reasoning. I just feel that all cylinders should be created equally. Adding higher back pressure to only half the cylinders isn't my cup of tea
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      07-06-2013, 10:38 PM   #25
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That is some amazing work all around, from the interior to the engine! i mean i would ask for 750hp for my taste with all those beefed up internals you could probably rock a 1000hp daily driver lol but anyhow different strokes, amazing work again tho great ingenuity
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      07-06-2013, 10:48 PM   #26
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I'm thinking this guy wants that kind of wheel horsepower in a reliable, every day car that uses up components as fast as a similar horsepower car from the factory would use up.

Some of us are running some serious horsepower in our vehicles, but I doubt they will have as many miles (lifespan) of hard driving as this car will have. That is pure speculation, though. The interior work blew my mind. Holy cow.
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      07-06-2013, 10:54 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSL335i View Post
5, Custom made exhaust systems.
Ceramic coated downpipes.
Ceramic coated mid-section with HJS sport cats, etc.

6, Engine rebuilt.
JE forged pistons with ceramic coating.
Carillo forged rods.
Nitrited crankshaft and crankcases.
ReBored and rehoned cylinders.
Chocked cylinders.
Ported cylinder heads. Ceramic coated ports.
Ceramic coated cylinder heads and valves.
Slightly modified valves.
Okada plasma coils. Okada Plasma Ground.
NGK spark plag
Relocated coolant reservior.
Relocated water pump.
Custom made alu intercooler
Custom made full alu watercooler radiator
Custom fitted SETRAB oil cooler.
850W FAN with relays.
Custom made charge pipes, water lines and oil lines.
Custom made air intake system with K&N filter.
Modified BMS OCC.
Forge DV.
JB4 G5 and flash.
Motul 300W Power 5W40 motor oil.


7, Exhaust manifolds and turbos.
Custom made exhaust manifolds (will be ceramic coated)
Custom made two single-scroll hybrid turbos with BALL-BEARING CHRAs.
Turbine houses will be ceramic coated as well.
Turbos have "Twin-scroll" effect, which means:
- Both of the turbos have the same turbine and compressor wheels
- Both of the turbos have the same Compressor house.
- One of the turbo has larger turbine house, while the other has smaller turbine house (compared to each other).
- The larger turbine house has smaller wastegate, while the smaller turbine house has larger wastgate (compared to each other).
- Wastgates will be controlled by Forge actuators operated by vacuum. There is also a plan to exchange the vacuum actuators with pressure based actuators.
Theoretically, this two single-turbo all-together can produce maximum 530-550HP, not more, which is more than enough for me.
If that was the case, why not save $10k and just use a stock block and RB turbos?
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      07-06-2013, 10:57 PM   #28
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Wow, very nice build! That however is a lot of work for that power level. Many people are running bolt on single turbo kits on stock internals. I do salute you for the balanced build though!
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      07-06-2013, 10:59 PM   #29
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Btw, impressive build man. Good luck!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferruccio View Post
I'm thinking this guy wants that kind of wheel horsepower in a reliable, every day car that uses up components as fast as a similar horsepower car from the factory would use up.

Some of us are running some serious horsepower in our vehicles, but I doubt they will have as many miles (lifespan) of hard driving as this car will have. That is pure speculation, though. The interior work blew my mind. Holy cow.
Built motors aren't reliable (much smaller rebuild interval) and don't last as long as factory motors (outside of sudden component failure). I used to DD built motors in the past. It's cheaper to DD a stock motor and build a track beast (which the OP appears to have ).
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      07-07-2013, 12:02 AM   #30
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Amazing build man! Keep it coming!
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      07-07-2013, 01:49 AM   #31
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Very nice. Cant wait to see the finish product
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      07-07-2013, 04:37 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3000GT MR View Post
Cool build! Not a huge fan of the 2 different AR housings. I understand the reasoning. I just feel that all cylinders should be created equally. Adding higher back pressure to only half the cylinders isn't my cup of tea
The back pressure will be (almost) identical.

The reason, why we designed smaller and larger AR turbine house with ball-bearing CHRA, to have low-end torque and response by the smaller AR turbine house, and to have high load capability by the larger AR turbine house. The smaller AR turbine house is the smallest turbine house, which we found with ball-bearing CHRAs.

The smaller AR turbine house has slightly larger wastgate compared to the larger AR turbine house, which has slightly smaller wastgate. The larger wastgate will compansate the higher pressure in smaller AR (above a specific load level, where the smaller AR turbine house become restrictive) as the exhaust gas which cannot enter through the turbine wheel, will slightly open the wastgate (in that case the exhaust pressure plus spring force is larger than the vacuum applied against the wastegates) and escapes through the wastegate.

Something like in a real twin-scroll turbo world.
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      07-07-2013, 04:51 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vargasturbotech View Post
Looks like a very cool build! Couple questions. All this work for 530-550WHP? The stock motor can handle that and last for thousands of miles, any reason you build it to run that power level? The orientation of your turbos, the rear intake is going to be inch or so from the front DP. BMW ran them opposed for a reason to keep all the keep in the middle away from the compressor housings. Any intake piping you run there is going to get very hot no matter how much heat shielding you run on it. Well thats about the only questions I have. Looks like a pretty serious project. Nice job!
Maybe the stock motor can handle that, but choping the cylinders is good for any HPs level later. The 530-550 HP is what the turbos are maybe capables. Come from a speculation, these turbos are not monsters, i didnt want to trade the low-end torque.

We already designed (on a paper) the intake piping, downpipes and other coolant pipes. We finalize them (without the ceramic coating) in the upcoming three weeks.

To optimize the heat transfer (and improve the fuel burn), we figured out the following:
- ceramic coating on the top of the piston heads
- ceramic coating on the cylinder heads, including valves
- ceramic coating in the engine exhaust ports internally - there is also a picture about this.
- ceramic coating on the exhaust manifolds (internally and externally)
- ceramic coating on the turbine house (externally and internally)
- ceramic coating on the downpipes (externally and internally)
- plus bandage on the downpipes.

Our in-house modified ceramic coating can decrease the heat up to 30%,
plus the bandage can decrease the heat up to 150C.

And yes, we should apply some heat shield (or heat mirror) as well.
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      07-07-2013, 05:00 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Ghost View Post
If that was the case, why not save $10k and just use a stock block and RB turbos?
When we start the project i have considered this. My tech firends also can make RB turbo like factory based hybrid turbos, but for long-term reliability they suggested to walk this way.

There are different paths, i have choosed this. Every path has the advantage and disadvantage compared to each other.
Making and tuning a car is always a give and take...
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      07-07-2013, 05:30 AM   #35
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2011 1M  [9.35]


CSL335i,

What's the reasoning behind nitrating the crankcase region of your block? I've never seen it done before, so it's a rather interesting topic to hear about.

Last edited by redux; 07-07-2013 at 05:58 AM..
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      07-07-2013, 06:29 AM   #36
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I wish you was my neighbor

Great build
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      07-07-2013, 07:20 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redux View Post


CSL335i,

What's the reasoning behind nitrating the crankcase region of your block? I've never seen it done before, so it's a rather interesting topic to hear about.
To be precise, this is a kind of nitrating in salt technology what we used. There is also a nitrating in gas technology. There are different application ares, where you may use nitrating as a carburazing technology. For example to strenghten the surface (with a few Rockwell).

At my crankcases and crankshaft to goal was not just strenghten the surface, but with this special version of nitrating we could decrease the resist of surface, which has metal contacts to the other part of the engine (until the oil film build up).

When you pull your fingerprint on the dry, but nitrated crankcase, it feels like you put a tons of oil on it. Less resistant, more strenghten means slightly less energy to rotate the crankcases and crankshaft. Just a few HP (maybe 5HP alltogehter), but better response and increased life.

Interesting technology. If it works well, i will nitrate my e93 M3 crankcases and crankshaft as well. NA engine will benefit as well:-)
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      07-07-2013, 07:30 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSL335i View Post

Regarding my e92 335i, all rebuilt has begin, when i was on a business trip with my 335i and my secondary oil cooler line has wear and blown up.
I have lost 4.5 liter (!!!) oil from 6.5Liter. Oil line was replace, engine was refilled with oil and however i cannot hear any damage or strange noise, i decided to tear down the engine.
I forgot to mention, when we have tear down the engine, there were no any damage on the crankshaft, crankcases, and on bearings. The engine was unbeleivibly clean and untouched, no sign of wear at all. My clock has 68K km in it.

I have lost 4.5L oil and no damage. Lucky.

Or maybe the oil, which helps me?

Motul ester-based oil gives much better oil film on the metal surface
than traditional oils, so I believe, that amongs many factors,
Motul protected my engine.

I am using Motul 300W Power 5W40 during my last 48K and I am very happy with this oil. Oil change period was between 5K and 10K.
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      07-07-2013, 07:48 AM   #39
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Engine rebuilt

I would like to share with you some interesting pictures about engine parts, after everything cleaned. We have used different cleaning methods.

We have used for example glass-pearl technology to clean and shine the surface. After glass-pearl (the technology is more or less the same than grit/sand blasting, but more refined), you have such surfaces like this:
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      07-07-2013, 07:53 AM   #40
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Custom leather upholstery - more pictures

Let the pictures speak for themselves :-)
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      07-07-2013, 09:28 AM   #41
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Other than the large needle holes, your entire is freakin gorgeous man!!!
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      07-07-2013, 09:47 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSL335i View Post
To be precise, this is a kind of nitrating in salt technology what we used. There is also a nitrating in gas technology. There are different application ares, where you may use nitrating as a carburazing technology. For example to strenghten the surface (with a few Rockwell).

At my crankcases and crankshaft to goal was not just strenghten the surface, but with this special version of nitrating we could decrease the resist of surface, which has metal contacts to the other part of the engine (until the oil film build up).

When you pull your fingerprint on the dry, but nitrated crankcase, it feels like you put a tons of oil on it. Less resistant, more strenghten means slightly less energy to rotate the crankcases and crankshaft. Just a few HP (maybe 5HP alltogehter), but better response and increased life.

Interesting technology. If it works well, i will nitrate my e93 M3 crankcases and crankshaft as well. NA engine will benefit as well:-)
I understand the nitriting the crank and bearings, it's a standard practice, but I'm still lost on the rest of the crankcase. The nitriting crankcase part is whats throwing me off. I'm trying what else down there would benefit from the nitriting process.
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      07-07-2013, 09:56 AM   #43
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It is nice to read about an amazing build while being educated on the build itself. Nitrating, implementing different AR housings, and coating different parts to alleviate critical areas in structural designs.

Thanks for sharing!!!
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      07-07-2013, 10:01 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redux View Post
I understand the nitriting the crank and bearings, it's a standard practice, but I'm still lost on the rest of the crankcase. The nitriting crankcase part is whats throwing me off. I'm trying what else down there would benefit from the nitriting process.
Sorry if i misunderstand you. If you mean why i nitrated the whole crankcase,
not just specific parts, than my answare is: by the technogy we have used, we could not block out part of the crankcase, so we nitrated the whole crankcase, however there are parts on which it is unnecessary.

Is this are you referring?
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