[kevinb21]

As some previous threads of mine described, I recently had my e92 335i blow an engine with rod knock so I replaced its engine with a used donor engine and before putting the engine in I changed all its seals and gaskets and put in king rod bearings and also gave the car m3 lower control arms and goodies, Ever since I put in the engine the car has been having constant constant constant issues. It has full bolt ons, silicone inlets, fmic, downpipes, charge pipe with tial bov. the car kept having terrible misfire issues so I gave it ngk 1 step colder iridium plugs, new Delphi coils, and just recently I made myself broke and got 6 brand new index 12 injectors coded installed. The car blew up 2 of the new Delphi coils so I swapped those and its currently running mhd stage 2 v8, for some reason on v9 stage 2+ it would misfire like CRAZY under load. I finally seem to have sorted out my misfires because the car pulls like a freight train and is splendid, although it smells like unburnt fuel and is throwing the bank 2 codes, p2098 and p2195. I need advice on what to replace fist to get this car running good, also I was wondering, I swapped the rod bearings and I never drive the car hard without fully warming it up although I never gave it a break in period and every time I warm up the car fully I send it, with the alpina trans flash and its smooth power Its irresistible, ive spent too much on this car not to enjoy it ahah, I also want to go e30 stage 2+ soon

[ky0u]

How old are your o2 sensors?

Also are those the only 2 codes that pop up with a code scan?

[kevinb21]

Originally Posted by ky0u

How old are your o2 sensors?

Also are those the only 2 codes that pop up with a code scan?

yep. So far those are the only codes I get with a code scanner, The car has 133,000 miles on it and in the history I have seen o2 sensor replacements in the past but it didn't say which ones, the car does smell like unburnt fuel or somethin, I had a toyota sienna which blew an 02 sensor and it smelled the same, the only other problem the car has is sometimes I get a halfengine light under a pull with the same lean codes and also with cold starts the car takes an extra crank to start and runs bad for a few seconds till the idle shoots up and then it runs well.

[Dave92N54]

Originally Posted by kevinb21

yep. So far those are the only codes I get with a code scanner, The car has 133,000 miles on it and in the history I have seen o2 sensor replacements in the past but it didn't say which ones, the car does smell like unburnt fuel or somethin, I had a toyota sienna which blew an 02 sensor and it smelled the same, the only other problem the car has is sometimes I get a halfengine light under a pull with the same lean codes and also with cold starts the car takes an extra crank to start and runs bad for a few seconds till the idle shoots up and then it runs well.

This sounds more like a HPFP. Do you have any fuel pressure readings?

[iqraceworks]

What do you mean when you said "the car blew up two of the new Delphi coils"??

That makes no sense to me.

[kevinb21]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

What do you mean when you said "the car blew up two of the new Delphi coils"??

That makes no sense to me.

It was a manufacturing defect on Delphi's behalf, The rubber/silicone boot on the end of the ignition coil swoll up and popped right off the end of the spark plug, replaced the 2 and had no such issues since.

[kevinb21]

Originally Posted by Dave92N54

This sounds more like a HPFP. Do you have any fuel pressure readings?

I checked a while back at idle and it was fine, I will check again on my scan tool at idle, Is that better or should I run and post an MHD log from a WOT pull?

[Dave92N54]

Originally Posted by kevinb21

I checked a while back at idle and it was fine, I will check again on my scan tool at idle, Is that better or should I run and post an MHD log from a WOT pull?

Check idle, should be ~700psi. If you feel comfortable taking a WOT log, go ahead. Should never drop below 1500psi, but for comparison I've never seen mine drop under 1900psi while WOT.

[stewbets]

Originally Posted by kevinb21

I checked a while back at idle and it was fine, I will check again on my scan tool at idle, Is that better or should I run and post an MHD log from a WOT pull?

I don't think an idle log is going to tell you anything that useful about your HPFP. 3rd gear WOT pull is where it's at. And how old are the O2 sensors? The codes are pointing to the sensors and you're smelling unburnt fuel. That would tell me it's time to replace O2 sensors. But grab a WOT log first.

[Tyc0]

I had similar codes, front o2's fixed it.

[kevinb21]

Originally Posted by Dave92N54

Check idle, should be ~700psi. If you feel comfortable taking a WOT log, go ahead. Should never drop below 1500psi, but for comparison I've never seen mine drop under 1900psi while WOT.

https://datazap.me/u/kevinb21/log-16...12-15-16-20-21

https://datazap.me/u/kevinb21/log-16...og=0&data=3-21

I went out and tried to data log but the second the car started building load the half engine light went off and the car misfired and cut power until I restarted the engine. Its obviously not happy for some reason, It has 2 step colder ngk plugs, new Delphi coils and index 12 injectors (coded) which were brand new. I got these codes when I got home,

29CC - several cylinder misfire
29CE - cylinder 2 misfire
29D0 - cylinder 4 misfire
29D2 - cylinder 6 misfire
2C32 - Lambda control 2
30FF - Turbocharger charge air pressure too low

and these shadow codes
2FCA - Fuel pressure
2FDA - Crankshaft sensor signal missing

I am confused what is wrong as yesterday I was able to do some pulls although it did cut on and off with power when I did said pulls, Right now it cut off on my 3rd gear WOT pull, although oddly enough the car does pull if I start in first gear etc.

[kevinb21]

Originally Posted by Tyc0

I had similar codes, front o2's fixed it.

It would be hard to Imagine my front o2 sensors are causing all these issues, the 30ff makes sense as when the car misfires there is less air flowing and it can not hit boost but the other codes are perplexing, although I do get the feeling one of my o2 sensors are bad as the smell is identical to the smell my other car made with a bad o2 sensor, I just dont know which one of the 4

[Dave92N54]

Originally Posted by kevinb21

https://datazap.me/u/kevinb21/log-16...12-15-16-20-21

https://datazap.me/u/kevinb21/log-16...&data=3-21

I went out and tried to data log but the second the car started building load the half engine light went off and the car misfired and cut power until I restarted the engine. Its obviously not happy for some reason, It has 2 step colder ngk plugs, new Delphi coils and index 12 injectors (coded) which were brand new. I got these codes when I got home,

29CC - several cylinder misfire
29CE - cylinder 2 misfire
29D0 - cylinder 4 misfire
29D2 - cylinder 6 misfire
2C32 - Lambda control 2
30FF - Turbocharger charge air pressure too low

and these shadow codes
2FCA - Fuel pressure
2FDA - Crankshaft sensor signal missing

I am confused what is wrong as yesterday I was able to do some pulls although it did cut on and off with power when I did said pulls, Right now it cut off on my 3rd gear WOT pull, although oddly enough the car does pull if I start in first gear etc.

I'm currently on mobile so datazap is kinda hard to see but from what I can in the second log, it would appear you have a boost leak, looked like you were down 4 psi before it threw the engine light but more importantly your rail pressure is absolutely tanking. At one point it hit 500psi when WOT, that is incredibly low, however it goes back up to 2700, I recall you saying you recently replaced injectors? Are all your fuel lines tight?I would maybe consider the rail pressure sensor as it's certainly cheaper than a HPFP. I'd find it odd it would tank so low but manage to get back up to 2700. When I can get to a computer i'll take a better look though, I may be missing something.

[kevinb21]

Originally Posted by Dave92N54

I'm currently on mobile so datazap is kinda hard to see but from what I can in the second log, it would appear you have a boost leak, looked like you were down 4 psi before it threw the engine light but more importantly your rail pressure is absolutely tanking. At one point it hit 500psi when WOT, that is incredibly low, however it goes back up to 2700, I recall you saying you recently replaced injectors? Are all your fuel lines tight?I would maybe consider the rail pressure sensor as it's certainly cheaper than a HPFP. I'd find it odd it would tank so low but manage to get back up to 2700. When I can get to a computer i'll take a better look though, I may be missing something.

My car has some typical n54 wastegate rattle which is quite annoying, I will run mhd wastegate rattle fix on 100% and also adjust the wastegate linkage with the washer fix for now. The charge pipe is a new VRSF charge pipe with a VRSF fmic so I couldnt imagine those would be the culprit as they are new and have new seals and The car also has new seals on the outlets and all the vaccum hoses are brand new silicone ones. Other than the really annoying wastegate rattle the car also takes an extra crank to start up in the morning and absolutely runs like crap for a few seconds on cold starts identical to this video,

Im trying to figure out what parts I need to order, o2 sensor, hpfp, possibly new turbos if the actuator arm adjustment doesn't work..

[kevinb21]

Originally Posted by Dave92N54

I'm currently on mobile so datazap is kinda hard to see but from what I can in the second log, it would appear you have a boost leak, looked like you were down 4 psi before it threw the engine light but more importantly your rail pressure is absolutely tanking. At one point it hit 500psi when WOT, that is incredibly low, however it goes back up to 2700, I recall you saying you recently replaced injectors? Are all your fuel lines tight?I would maybe consider the rail pressure sensor as it's certainly cheaper than a HPFP. I'd find it odd it would tank so low but manage to get back up to 2700. When I can get to a computer i'll take a better look though, I may be missing something.

oh yeah I checked, I see no fuel leakage around the brand new index 12 injectors I put on, they seem nice and tight

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by kevinb21

My car has some typical n54 wastegate rattle which is quite annoying, I will run mhd wastegate rattle fix on 100% and also adjust the wastegate linkage with the washer fix for now. The charge pipe is a new VRSF charge pipe with a VRSF fmic so I couldnt imagine those would be the culprit as they are new and have new seals and The car also has new seals on the outlets and all the vaccum hoses are brand new silicone ones. Other than the really annoying wastegate rattle the car also takes an extra crank to start up in the morning and absolutely runs like crap for a few seconds on cold starts identical to this video,

Im trying to figure out what parts I need to order, o2 sensor, hpfp, possibly new turbos if the actuator arm adjustment doesn't work..

Full rattle fix will give you a tonne of lag. Do the manual adjustment and if it works you shouldn't need to use MHD rattle fix at all.

Check the vacumn cannister connection points, sometimes they crack and leak from there even though your hoses are fine. Check all the lines over, to make sure nothing is loose anyway. Next thing to check boost solenoids.

[kevinb21]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Full rattle fix will give you a tonne of lag. Do the manual adjustment and if it works you shouldn't need to use MHD rattle fix at all.

Check the vacumn cannister connection points, sometimes they crack and leak from there even though your hoses are fine. Check all the lines over, to make sure nothing is loose anyway. Next thing to check boost solenoids.

ill check them again although ive checked them in the past and I got both my boost solenoids from a known working 335i, my assumption is my 30ff is from a waste-gate not sealing or perhaps the seal between my vrsf charge pipe and my tial bov since i reused the o ring, although I tightened the v band so tight I couldn't imagine that being a boost leak. Is there a way I can determine what is going on from my log since it has the WGDC

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by kevinb21

ill check them again although ive checked them in the past and I got both my boost solenoids from a known working 335i, my assumption is my 30ff is from a waste-gate not sealing or perhaps the seal between my vrsf charge pipe and my tial bov since i reused the o ring, although I tightened the v band so tight I couldn't imagine that being a boost leak. Is there a way I can determine what is going on from my log since it has the WGDC

Could be the wastegates, that's worst case scenario which was what happened to me, but you want to eliminate all the cheaper alternatives before throwing money on new Turbos.

Here's a good guide...

https://bmwtuning.co/bmw-n54-30ff-en...-repair-guide/

[stewbets]

Originally Posted by kevinb21

https://datazap.me/u/kevinb21/log-16...12-15-16-20-21

https://datazap.me/u/kevinb21/log-16...og=0&data=3-21

I went out and tried to data log but the second the car started building load the half engine light went off and the car misfired and cut power until I restarted the engine. Its obviously not happy for some reason, It has 2 step colder ngk plugs, new Delphi coils and index 12 injectors (coded) which were brand new. I got these codes when I got home,

29CC - several cylinder misfire
29CE - cylinder 2 misfire
29D0 - cylinder 4 misfire
29D2 - cylinder 6 misfire
2C32 - Lambda control 2
30FF - Turbocharger charge air pressure too low

and these shadow codes
2FCA - Fuel pressure
2FDA - Crankshaft sensor signal missing

I am confused what is wrong as yesterday I was able to do some pulls although it did cut on and off with power when I did said pulls, Right now it cut off on my 3rd gear WOT pull, although oddly enough the car does pull if I start in first gear etc.

It does really look like your HPFP is on its way out. It is tanking hard and immediately after it tanks, your AFR's go super lean. I'm assuming this is because the car is cutting a couple cylinders due to misfiring caused by low fuel pressure. Replacing the HPFP would be my first step if I were you and then try to track down the boost leak after that. It's also a good idea to start your pulls at 2500 to 3000 RPM. Going WOT under 2000 RPM is just asking for trouble.

[kevinb21]

Originally Posted by stewbets

It does really look like your HPFP is on its way out. It is tanking hard and immediately after it tanks, your AFR's go super lean. I'm assuming this is because the car is cutting a couple cylinders due to misfiring caused by low fuel pressure. Replacing the HPFP would be my first step if I were you and then try to track down the boost leak after that. It's also a good idea to start your pulls at 2500 to 3000 RPM. Going WOT under 2000 RPM is just asking for trouble.

Sounds good, I will track down and order a HPFP as soon as I can, Ive noticed the hpfps are different than injectors in the sense that there are many aftermarket options for high pressure fuel pumps, do I have to get the oem bmw fcp euro part for 800ish dollars or is there hope with the cheaper aftermarket alternatives?. Also I noticed you have some 16T turbos, Have they been good? I plan on adjusting my actuator arms but Im starting to look into new turbos and the ebay options are pretty appealing.

[kevinb21]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Could be the wastegates, that's worst case scenario which was what happened to me, but you want to eliminate all the cheaper alternatives before throwing money on new Turbos.

Here's a good guide...

https://bmwtuning.co/bmw-n54-30ff-en...-repair-guide/

When I replace my HPFP ill be going through the car and replacing the BOV seal along with anything else that can cause my boost issues. I assume its the waste-gates as they rattle really really bad. band aid actuator adjustment for now, hopefully new turbos soon.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by kevinb21

When I replace my HPFP ill be going through the car and replacing the BOV seal along with anything else that can cause my boost issues. I assume its the waste-gates as they rattle really really bad. band aid actuator adjustment for now, hopefully new turbos soon.