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      11-16-2019, 01:15 AM   #1
AndyW
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CSF 7046 (AT version) Radiator Install question

2008 335i N54 A/T.

So, I cannot figure out how to reinstall the stock fan and it looks to be related to the fact that the radiator has tabs at the bottom that line up where the fan tabs are (which makes no sense, they are simply in the way as the fan must go down further into the engine bay). Hard to explain. Here's a few pics (problem tabs circled in red):







Compounding this, all the pics on the internet of the 7046 don't appear to have those tabs. Any advice appreciated.
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      11-16-2019, 05:31 PM   #2
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So I just sawed them off. Also had to Dremel off some plastic on the fan shroud to get it to fit past the passenger side cross member in front of the water pump (not sure if this is an E93 thing...I regularly run into extra support pieces I have to remove that aren't in the standard DIYs or Bentley's.)

Car started and has no leaks...yet. lol.
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      11-18-2019, 04:47 PM   #3
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Yeah, it's tough to get it back in. I removed tabs also.
I have the tabs at the bottom (I think) and the ones the fan shroud drops into that have the keeper bolts.

Its a pain.
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      11-18-2019, 08:26 PM   #4
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Why did you put that specific radiator in? Are you tracking the car? Did your radiator go bad?
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      11-18-2019, 09:20 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Why did you put that specific radiator in? Are you tracking the car? Did your radiator go bad?
1. Much better than stock.

2. No.

3. Yes. Leak in one of the plastic end tanks.
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      11-19-2019, 12:00 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyW View Post
1. Much better than stock.

2. No.

3. Yes. Leak in one of the plastic end tanks.
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      11-19-2019, 01:30 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyW View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Why did you put that specific radiator in? Are you tracking the car? Did your radiator go bad?
1. Much better than stock.

2. No.

3. Yes. Leak in one of the plastic end tanks.
Is the CSF radiator worth double the price of the OEM if you aren't tracking the car?

Idk just wondering?

What's your coolant temps running at 80mph down the Hwy or In rush hour traffic now ?? Not trying to be a smart @ss here? I'm really wondering...
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      11-19-2019, 03:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Is the CSF radiator worth double the price of the OEM if you aren't tracking the car?

Idk just wondering?

What's your coolant temps running at 80mph down the Hwy or In rush hour traffic now ?? Not trying to be a smart @ss here? I'm really wondering...
The CSF Radiator is way more efficient then the factory OE radiator.

What most folks are doing, via Flash, is adjusting the coolant tables to take advantage of the improved efficiency. The factory coolant tables typically reach over 220+ water. You'll be able to run as low as 185F. This will also help keep oil temps down.
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      11-19-2019, 04:09 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Is the CSF radiator worth double the price of the OEM if you aren't tracking the car?

Idk just wondering?

What's your coolant temps running at 80mph down the Hwy or In rush hour traffic now ?? Not trying to be a smart @ss here? I'm really wondering...
Well, I thought so...

1. Stock is built to a lowest common denominator price point. I am running a stage 2+ tune. Car will soon need new turbos and will go from stock to PS2 - will need more cooling.

2. N54 runs hot.

3. I run the ADE thermostat - highway oil temps run 220-230. If I am in sport mode, even in 50-60FF ambient and drive in a mildly spirited manner, it will get to 250F.

4. CSF has a great rep for building a good after market radiator. I will likely be installing one in my 135i track car as well next year.

What Jeff said is also accurate - I will be able to adjust the coolant settings in MHD to keep oil and water temps down.
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      11-19-2019, 04:32 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyW View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Why did you put that specific radiator in? Are you tracking the car? Did your radiator go bad?
1. Much better than stock.

2. No.

3. Yes. Leak in one of the plastic end tanks.
Is the CSF radiator worth double the price of the OEM if you aren't tracking the car?

Idk just wondering?

What's your coolant temps running at 80mph down the Hwy or In rush hour traffic now ?? Not trying to be a smart @ss here? I'm really wondering...
MW - I did the same thing because my radiator cracked. I took into consideration that I don't have an oil cooler and my car runs hot as is, so hoping that cooler coolant will effect oil temps, also that it's completely aluminum so I won't ever have to deal with a cracked radiator again.

In regards to temps on highway going 80 it sits at about 210 degrees now. I'm going to take advantage of what Jeff mentioned above and enable the MHD sport cooling feature.
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      11-20-2019, 09:11 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Is the CSF radiator worth double the price of the OEM if you aren't tracking the car?

Idk just wondering?

What's your coolant temps running at 80mph down the Hwy or In rush hour traffic now ?? Not trying to be a smart @ss here? I'm really wondering...
The CSF Radiator is way more efficient then the factory OE radiator.

What most folks are doing, via Flash, is adjusting the coolant tables to take advantage of the improved efficiency. The factory coolant tables typically reach over 220+ water. You'll be able to run as low as 185F. This will also help keep oil temps down.
What's your experience or opinion on the engine's ability to heat up using this particular radiator when you are in a 4 seasons state and the winters can throw days at you where it often - 10 degrees out?
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      11-20-2019, 03:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
What's your experience or opinion on the engine's ability to heat up using this particular radiator when you are in a 4 seasons state and the winters can throw days at you where it often - 10 degrees out?
I went to this radiator because mine blew at the seams.
BMW radiators are a consumable. Radiators should not be, so I went with this one. I also had an aluminum radiator on my E30 and E36 M3s. It was only natural to buy this.

It's slow to heat up. When it's really cold (35 deg F) it will throw a code about 20% of the time if I get directly on the highway.
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