[autor]

Originally Posted by Rezh95

I'm having the same issue. I bought my 335i wrecked but repaired everything mechanical and electrical. new starter. new bst. new key fob. new and great battery. checked all fuses. checked all relays. I'm having codes.
Engine/Motor
Generator, communication: Bus error. code: 2E98,

Immobilizer System:
Cas
Driver KL50L kS
Code: A0C1
Engine starter faulty operation
Code: A0B4


The car ONLY turns over and starts when its being boosted from the front engine bay terminals. When I checked the voltage on the battery while it was running it decreased to 11 volts when in reality it's suppose to increase between 13-14. The car will not stay running however, it eventually dies a few minutes later. Any suggestions?

2E98 appears after A0C1 and A0B4 code ?your case maybe just a ground cable .

[Chris S.]

Originally Posted by 808AWD325xi

I suggest pinging Alex at ABR (Advanced BMW Repair.) If he doesn't have the ability, perhaps he can refer you to someone local that can help. In addition to AutoHex II, I believe that BMW-Explorer can also do it.

If you can't find someone local, it may be possible to get a dump from your CAS and write it to the used one with a R270 BDM programmer.

Best of luck and let us know how things work out.

Life got busy and thus the trigger start bypass still exists. I'm ready to take care of this now.

I found videos online showing the process to replace the CAS using AUTOHEX II. Now I just need to find someone in Houston with AUTOHEX II. I will call up Alex and start my search there. Thanks!

[808AWD325xi]

Originally Posted by Chris S.

Life got busy and thus the trigger start bypass still exists. I'm ready to take care of this now.

I found videos online showing the process to replace the CAS using AUTOHEX II. Now I just need to find someone in Houston with AUTOHEX II. I will call up Alex and start my search there. Thanks!

You're welcome !! If you can't find anyone locally, I know of a shop in Washington state that has AutoHex II.

[Gohan335i7]

Hmmmmmm

[Duk777]

i am having the same issue,
fault code CAS Driver KL50L kS
Engine won't start, attempts to crank and nothing. all lights inside good.
replaced starter motor,
repaired earth cable,
replaced CAS,
replaced Battery,
taken to BMW and coming off the truck, fault repaired itself. Drove it for 4 days and failed to start at shopping centre. total of 8tows, 4 mechanic workshops, 1 auto electrician.
Suggested repair now is change alternator.
The recent issue was the positive cable from the jump start connection to the starter motor became very hot to the point of melting cables. hottest section was near the jump start terminal. Thus in turn flattened the battery while sitting in BMW workshop.
i have attempted disconnecting the IBIS, connecting the IBIS. earthing the motor, earthing the battery to the car body. This did improve the volts at the jump start terminal. before connecting the earth, the volts constantly fluctuated.
HELP love the car, would like to drive it more.
BMW 2010 335i Msport with JB4. (problem occurs when JB4 disconnected)

[Chris S.]

You said the grounding helped, have you checked what is the voltage at the alternator when the engine is running? It will vary but should be somewhere around 12-14v. Next see what the voltage drop is from engine to body. Simple volt meter with red on engine block and black on car body. I don't remember what is acceptable, but something under 1v would be preferred.

I was getting around a 2.4v drop which said it wasn't my alternator causing a flat battery. But you may have a different issue if the terminal is getting hot... sounds like a short or hanging load somewhere.

Resistance from starter to jump post is near zero? with battery disconnected of course.

I'm pretty sure all my issues were created by a bad ground wire. Which caused trace line issues in my CAS and DME. A few extra resistors inline for the DME keeps it working, but no dice on the CAS for me. The relay is an ancient part and glued to the board.

[Chris S.]

Originally Posted by Duk777

earthing the battery to the car body. This did improve the volts at the jump start terminal. before connecting the earth, the volts constantly fluctuated.

Try taking jumper cables and clamping one end to the engine (I found a bracket next to the alternator accessible) and the other to the strut tower or another good grounding point on the body and see if things get any better.

[Duk777]

hi,
i tried connecting the jumper cable as you mentioned, still no start. i currently cannot start the vehicle. i have ordered the Carly wifi connector so i can get a better read from the computer when i attempt to start it.
i wish the starter motor was more accessible.
thanks for the reply. Still love the car.http://www.e90post.com/forums/images/smilies/lol.gif

[Delta0311]

Same problem here. Started on Monday last week. Replaced battery because it was low and that fixed the issue but it came back yesterday.
A0c1
A0b4
Are the codes I'm getting.
Was able to start car this am after about 30 tries. Drove it my Indy to drop it off for tomorrow. Tested the car after parking it there and the bastard fires up every time. Let's see what they say tomorrow.

[JtR1888]

Hi peeps, just wondering if this was ever solved, I know an old post but seems issues listed are exactly same as I am having with a 320i

Can anyone shed any light on what was wrong ?

Thanks

[mallen462]

Originally Posted by JtR1888

Hi peeps, just wondering if this was ever solved, I know an old post but seems issues listed are exactly same as I am having with a 320i

Can anyone shed any light on what was wrong ?

Thanks

Same here I have a 330i that will occasionally start, battery voltage reading looks okay using Carly, I also tested the white cable that leads to the starter and its getting the right voltage.

My main question is if the starter is not functioning correctly would it occasionally work?

PS here are my fault codes

Immobilizer System:
CAS
engine starter faulty operation
Code: 00A0B4

[UK_Nomad]

Originally Posted by GeorgeSorfazian

Still car not starting so i quickly took the air cleaner box & boot out and the power box under the
throttle body where i located the power wire that goes to the starter solenoid .. and has 11.5 V going to the starter when trying to crank the car ...

so this shows that POWER is going to the STARTER....
this mean ONLY one thing.... the STARTER isnt working correctly! right???
But common i changed ((( 3 ))) Starters ..... 2 Bosch rebuilt and 1 from the Dealer

Here is the results :

Battery Voltage 13.4V
Starter Solenoid Positive Cable 11.5V
Starter Not Cranking

I'm sure the original poster hasn't been here for a while but I'd still like to say "Thank you !"

My E93 stalled last week, then wouldn't crank but bump started fine.
Since then I've been trying to work out if the problem is the ECU/immobiliser side of things, or the actual starter side of things.

I now know the ECU/immobiliser is trying to turn the starter - but nothing happens.
Now I can focus on battery, cables (positive & earth), or simply a stuck starter solenoid (ie. starter replacement time - after removing the manifold )

[Yuriflying]

Replaced my starter on 2007 328i / E91 and the car started just fine, but would not start the second time. Battery is good.... Any ideas? I got the reman starter at NAPA

[GEOS07335i]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

Just curious, did you check the grounds on the engine?

I second this notion check all of the ground's. I had similar issues with my X3 and it was a corroded ground strap. Not sure if this applies but try and find all of the grounds on your car and make sure there not corroded and on tight.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by GEOS07335i

I second this notion check all of the ground's. I had similar issues with my X3 and it was a corroded ground strap. Not sure if this applies but try and find all of the grounds on your car and make sure there not corroded and on tight.

There is basically only one, and it is accessed from underneath the vehicle. And being only one, if it is failing, causes issues.

[BashShah]

Originally Posted by GEOS07335i

I second this notion check all of the ground's. I had similar issues with my X3 and it was a corroded ground strap. Not sure if this applies but try and find all of the grounds on your car and make sure there not corroded and on tight.

The Ground strap is NOTORIOUS for corroding to a point that it is brittle to the touch.
When I had starter issues, I checked this first.
I am surprised no one mentioned this first in this 3 page thread.

[F31cruisin]

Doesn't seem like anyone has solved this issue? Is it something we will just have to deal with?

New battery here, new starter, grounds are all perfect. Car randomly just clicks and hums like it wants to start, but doesn't start. Push started it, got home, and car starts fine now.

Has anyone been able to tell what it is?

[F31cruisin]

After doing a TON of fucking reading, and following one guys very detailed journey that lasted months, he narrowed it down to his clutch switch, which would then be brake switch on autos. Ill be installing a clutch switch this weekend to see. What I noticed through INPA is that the current to KL50L is erratic when it doesnt start, like it errors out and says 36. When it actualyl starts its at 12. Similar to what this guy found on his M3. If anyone else is having this issue, its worth a read. Ill report back if it worked.

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showth...1142234&page=6

[F31cruisin]

The day before installing the clutch switch, out of about 8 starts, 4 just clicked and didn’t start.

After installing the clutch switch, 16 starts later, all started perfect. Crossing fingers this issue is a thing of the past. Been annoying as hell.

[Chris S.]

I guess I did like everyone else. Fixed my problem and never came back. For me it all started with a very green and stretched engine ground cable. In the end the eBay dme/cas combo was enough to prove the original CAS was bad. I could start and drive but didn't like the tamper dot and didn't want a mixed set of VINs in the car. I finally found a dealer that would just order the CAS. A few days later it was liftetslly plug and play. New CAS came programed with VIN and keys. Boom! No more starter trigger in the passenger seat.

[F31cruisin]

Problem is back after three days of no issues after the clutch position sensor. Took apart the CAS and no signs of burns or broken links. Pin 21 has 12 volt going in, and pin 22 has 12 volts going out. Jumped both pins and the starter clicks but still doesn’t turn over. Could it really be the fucking starter again? Just doesn’t totally add up here. It’s also a 2 month old starter.

[e90Hamzz]

Good lord. After reading all these comments. I am so worried. I am having the exact same problems on my 07 328, it starts up fine most of the time and then there's times I'm stuck having to bump start it and i hate it it's a 6 month old starter. Especially the location of the starter is terrible. But i am getting A0B0(brake signal implausible) code and A0B4(starter operation) and they are both CAS codes, on top of that i have BSD codes that say my alternator is missing and my water pump is missing but my car runs fine! What is up with these cars. I have erased codes and have replaced parts and etc.