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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > 2006 325i rough crank no start......



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      12-30-2019, 10:23 PM   #23
Mantraxalos
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You bought a new battery but how is the charge on it? If they have been sitting they can also discharge. When my starter died on the 06 325i, you couldn't really hear a click from inside the car. When someone else attempted to start it while I was by the engine with the hood open I would here the click. The electrical systems in the cabin remained the same - no flashing lights or radio oddities. Do you think an issue lies with your ground cables?
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      02-10-2020, 10:03 AM   #24
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Sorry for the delay, I have been out of town...
The battery was swapped for a good one with full charge, I even put it on a trickle charger overnight. I put the battery in and still the same issue. As soon as I press the brake pedal to press the start button everything looks like it shorts out. Not the smartest idea but I put the battery charger on the jump terminals under the hood at "jump start" mode at like 50 AMPS and still nothing. Doesn't even make it to the point where it could make a click...

Since that I have pulled the intake manifold off and come to find out it was full of oil... Soooo, I let that sit for a couple of days while moving it around every night to get the oil out as best I could. I purchased a catch can setup for the car because I destroyed the OEM one getting the manifold out.
While in there I took a peek at the starter. Of course, it was a rebuilt poop model that was only finger tight when I went to take it out. As soon as I touched the starter the whole thing was loose. I could spin everything accessible from the outside with my finger. So I tightened everything up and am in the process of re installing everything. I need some 5/8" hose to finish up. Oh and the starter will fire right up when attached to the battery directly so it's not that...
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      02-10-2020, 10:05 AM   #25
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Hopefully it's solved soon. It sounds like you are getting there!
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      02-10-2020, 10:34 AM   #26
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I mean, as far as getting it cleaned up sure but I am still fighting this power issue. Before it would at least try and turn over. Not it won't do anything past turning on the interior lights when I open a door.
As soon as I get the engine back together I will work on it more. I hope just tightening up the starter will magically work lol
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      02-10-2020, 02:18 PM   #27
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If your intake was full of oil you could have a failed oil separator. That or something in your CCV system is blocked, it could explain the strange idle issue. I feel for ya, it looks like your doing everything right, but getting no progress to work off of. That kinda shit drives me mental where you start doubting everything you know about cars.... been there man. I know this seems trivial but I would clean the MAF sensor connectors. Typically the retaining clip snaps which can remove some of the material which helps seals the connections, the connections can corrode which ruins the what the car sees causing some strange idling issues without throwing codes. Worth checking while your at it. Just remove and reseat a few times to clean up the contact points.
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      02-10-2020, 06:28 PM   #28
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I'll be sure to do that with the connections and the e46 I had a few years ago did the same thing but this time I'm putting a catch can in. Waaay cheaper and hopefully it will help get it running.
And I appreciate the sympathy, this thing has driven me crazy. I've honestly been looking at whole engines to swap in lol
If I can get this power issue sorted out that may be what I end up doing... But we'll see. Hopefully cleaning up the intake and a few other easy things she will fire right up!
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      02-23-2020, 03:09 PM   #29
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So I have gotten it back together and whatever I did worked I guess because now it will turn over like a champ. However, it is still rough as shit. Will not fire on starter fluid either.

What does an engine swap look like for this fella?
Or someone around here want to take this off my hands lol?
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      02-23-2020, 04:05 PM   #30
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Is it rough like in that video you uploaded previously or different than that?
Still no more code either right?
Have you ever looked in the cylinders with a scope?
After all you've done I still feel that you must be close to a resolution. Everything you've inspected so far appears in order.
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      02-23-2020, 07:02 PM   #31
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Pretty much. I think it is starting a little better due to the charged up battery but it is still really rough. I have not done anything more than peer through when I have the spark plugs out. The top of the pistons look alright I suppose...

Still not showing any codes. Which is amazing considering the mockery of a catch can setup I have on it now
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      03-10-2020, 11:09 AM   #32
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The 2006 CCV system has quite a few hoses that like to get brittle and break, if any of the hoses on the manifold side of the CCV break and allow a massive air leak, the car will refuse to start. I learned this after mine wouldn't start after a starter replacement, so I'd definitely check. Have you smoke tested the intake?
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      03-14-2020, 07:47 PM   #33
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Yea... I pretty much broke all of them getting the intake off. I have a catch can setup on it now that is really basic and everything is routed appropriately. Didn't want to spend the almost $400 on a new one for an engine that may have been shot...

Just played with it a little today and I am pretty sure the engine is toast. The intake cam seems to bind and click at certain spots while spinning by hand. Not sure how I haven't noticed this...
For whatever reason the car will crank and I played with it until it will "run" for up to 15 seconds on its own but will die as soon as throttle is applied. Also it will now rev up a little when starter fluid is used.
Took the plugs out and the back 4 spark plugs are fine and the front 2 look to be fouled. and it made me think to spin the engine over a few times and that's when I heard and felt the cams bind up or whatever they are doing. I took a video through the oil fill cap and it is pretty noticeable.

Didn't want to pull the valve cover because it was getting late so I may do that tomorrow pending any confirmations here about whether or not it is worth it to do so...

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      04-24-2020, 02:07 PM   #34
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So I did pull the VC and replace the gaskets, they were in terrible condition, and verified the cams snapping around. the timing chain seems to be binding somewhere in there.
The chain seems to be getting pulled by the crank to a point but then it binds and the chain doesn't move up and over the cams until the chain is pushed from the crank turning. Kind of weird to explain...

She will crank over like no ones business though. Nothing seems apparently wrong with it (no metallic noises) but it does sound bad. I have gotten it to idle for about 10 seconds at most and then it dies. Sometimes giving it throttle kills it and sometimes it just dies. Sometimes it needs throttle while cranking and other times it doesn't.
Nothing really consistent on the front.
NO check engine lights and NOTHING in the computer about broken things...
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