[JEger]

None of my usb ports and aux ports are working. They don't register my phone when i try to plug them in. My bluetooth page isn't working i try and pull it up and it reads "please wait" I've sat and waited for 30 minutes and nothing happened. It may be a software issue but I'm not sure. Thoughts?

[Wilt]

Did you just buy your car, and expect them both to work?
Do you know for certain your car has the USB/Aux port option in it?
Did you check VIN to see what options are in your car?
Did it once before USED TO work, but does not work now?

[JEger]

Yeah just bought it from the dealership about 3 weeks ago, they did a full service check and said everything was perfect. But the more i used the car the more i found wrong with it. Yes I'm sure it has aux and usb both the plugins are in the arm rest. The dealership also advertised the aux usb and bluetooth on the add.

[JasW]

Originally Posted by JEger

None of my usb ports and aux ports are working. They don't register my phone when i try to plug them in. My bluetooth page isn't working i try and pull it up and it reads "please wait" I've sat and waited for 30 minutes and nothing happened. It may be a software issue but I'm not sure. Thoughts?

What phone do you have? Generally, the USB port is only iPhone friendly. Have you tried a USB stick in the armrest? That will let you know if there's a problem with the USB port.

Re: the AUX input -- what do you mean it doesn't "register" your phone? You mean by plugging a 1/4" stereo cable from the phone's audio output to the AUX input, and hearing no music or any other sound when selecting AUX input on iDrive? That's the only thing you'll get -- there'll be no visual confirmation of your phone being connected that way.

BT sounds messed up, though. It should ask you to pair a device. Could be software, though it could be hardware also. Once you've nailed down what's going on with the USB input (and AUX input, if there is a problem with that), take it back and have the dealer address it.

[jt335i]

Since your 335 is a 2011, the software and USB and AUX ports were designed for the iPhones (4, 4S) and other smartphones (i.e. Samsung Galaxy S II) of that time. So if you have the newest smartphone, your car’s software will not be compatible unless it has been upgraded and you have newest USB and AUX cable, if there is any.

As for Bluetooth, it’s possibly a software issue which you’d have to have a BMW tech, or some indy shop tech who knows BMWs, check it.

[JEger]

Originally Posted by JasW

What phone do you have? Generally, the USB port is only iPhone friendly. Have you tried a USB stick in the armrest? That will let you know if there's a problem with the USB port.

Re: the AUX input -- what do you mean it doesn't "register" your phone? You mean by plugging a 1/4" stereo cable from the phone's audio output to the AUX input, and hearing no music or any other sound when selecting AUX input on iDrive? That's the only thing you'll get -- there'll be no visual confirmation of your phone being connected that way.

BT sounds messed up, though. It should ask you to pair a device. Could be software, though it could be hardware also. Once you've nailed down what's going on with the USB input (and AUX input, if there is a problem with that), take it back and have the dealer address it.

I have not tried using the stick on the usb port but as for the aux I've tried many different cords and i will pull up the screen with the aux options and it wont let me select the volume to turn it up. I find it weird that it has a different volume system than the radio. Also on the aux it lets me select the aux option, as where it doesn't let me select the usb option. But when i do open the aux page it doesnt let me change anything as I've said earlier.

[JEger]

Originally Posted by jt335i

Since your 335 is a 2011, the software and USB and AUX ports were designed for the iPhones (4, 4S) and other smartphones (i.e. Samsung Galaxy S II) of that time. So if you have the newest smartphone, your car’s software will not be compatible unless it has been upgraded and you have newest USB and AUX cable, if there is any.

As for Bluetooth, it’s possibly a software issue which you’d have to have a BMW tech, or some indy shop tech who knows BMWs, check it.

That would make sense. I have the iPhone 6 so if that is the problem with compatibility would the system update take care of it?

[Wilt]

Originally Posted by JEger

Yeah just bought it from the dealership about 3 weeks ago, they did a full service check and said everything was perfect. But the more i used the car the more i found wrong with it. Yes I'm sure it has aux and usb both the plugins are in the arm rest. The dealership also advertised the aux usb and bluetooth on the add.

The PRESENCE of something is not always indicative of FUNCTIONING option. I have a clown nose on my mirror which does nothing (no alarm), everyone has buttons on steering wheel for mobile phone but many have no phone functions. That is why I suggested going online to interrogate the database for factory options associated with VIN, to see if USB/Aux Interface (S6FL) is enabled.

[jt335i]

The software update should take care of the audio issue and if you have the right y-cable for your iPhone 6.



Because your car is a 2011, you can do the software update yourself. You just need a USB memory stick and then you can go to the below link to run your VIN and then it will tell you the available updates which you can download. For my 2010, this update option is not available and so I have to bring it to the dealer.

http://www.bmw.com/com/en/owners/con...re_update.html


As for Bluetooth, it should work even without an update unless there's something different with the iPhone 6.
I have the iPhone 5c and it works just fine on my 2010 without any software update.

[Wilt]

Originally Posted by JEger

I have not tried using the stick on the usb port but as for the aux I've tried many different cords and i will pull up the screen with the aux options and it wont let me select the volume to turn it up. I find it weird that it has a different volume system than the radio. Also on the aux it lets me select the aux option, as where it doesn't let me select the usb option. But when i do open the aux page it doesnt let me change anything as I've said earlier.

In my 2011 328i with Aux/USB support & satellite radio, mobile phone support, but no iDrive...

• The Aux port appears in your list of inputs along with USB when you have the USB/AuX Interface option, in addition to the radio/CD choices.
• The signal INPUT VOLUME control of the Aux port is the right hand knob (broadcast radio frequency change dial knob), and supports values 1-6.
• Aux port uses standard audio signals (stereo mini jack) so that you can adjust the incoming signal to be similar to other signal sources of your car, and it can accept anything using standard earpiece/headphone signal...the signal strength coming from your Aux device might be a fixed strength rather than variable-strength which is why the INPUT VOLUME can be varied.
• Your normal radio Volume control still controls the overall Listening volume thru your speakers, just like for every other audio device.
• The USB choice under Audio button menu should tell you to plug in a USB device if nothing is plugged in, and the car the reads that port like your computer reads a memory stick...it searches for suitable digital audio files, takes in the list of file names so that you can then use various means of selecting tracks and playback sequences (if you have iDrive)

This all works in my car, with an Android phone and no special cables or software updates to support anything new.

'Bluetooth' in BMW land means two things, and all BMWs do not support both -- even in brand new F30s.

1. Bluetooth mobile phone calls and directory
2. Bluetooth A2DP audio signal (music) receive

My 2011 has #1, but no #2.

[Eurocraze]

interesting, mine hasnt worked since february after i got my battery changed. my ipod that used to work/bluetooth/aux line all stopped working when i drove off the lot after the change. Also, i got an SOS malfunction along with it. OP have you had any headway on was/is wrong? i would definitley be interested in knowing, see in how my indy shop couldnt figure it out. They couldnt even connect to said features, he said it was weird. We checked all fuses and everything. At this point it just seems like a loss for me.

[JEger]

Originally Posted by Wilt

In my 2011 328i with Aux/USB support & satellite radio, mobile phone support, but no iDrive...

• The Aux port appears in your list of inputs along with USB when you have the USB/AuX Interface option, in addition to the radio/CD choices.
• The signal INPUT VOLUME control of the Aux port is the right hand knob (broadcast radio frequency change dial knob), and supports values 1-6.
• Aux port uses standard audio signals (stereo mini jack) so that you can adjust the incoming signal to be similar to other signal sources of your car, and it can accept anything using standard earpiece/headphone signal...the signal strength coming from your Aux device might be a fixed strength rather than variable-strength which is why the INPUT VOLUME can be varied.
• Your normal radio Volume control still controls the overall Listening volume thru your speakers, just like for every other audio device.
• The USB choice under Audio button menu should tell you to plug in a USB device if nothing is plugged in, and the car the reads that port like your computer reads a memory stick...it searches for suitable digital audio files, takes in the list of file names so that you can then use various means of selecting tracks and playback sequences (if you have iDrive)

This all works in my car, with an Android phone and no special cables or software updates to support anything new.

'Bluetooth' in BMW land means two things, and all BMWs do not support both -- even in brand new F30s.

1. Bluetooth mobile phone calls and directory
2. Bluetooth A2DP audio signal (music) receive

My 2011 has #1, but no #2.

I checked and everything is supported. As for the aux input volume it wont let me turn it up, but it will however let me select it. Its been weird for a week or so now.

[JEger]

Originally Posted by Eurocraze

interesting, mine hasnt worked since february after i got my battery changed. my ipod that used to work/bluetooth/aux line all stopped working when i drove off the lot after the change. Also, i got an SOS malfunction along with it. OP have you had any headway on was/is wrong? i would definitley be interested in knowing, see in how my indy shop couldnt figure it out. They couldnt even connect to said features, he said it was weird. We checked all fuses and everything. At this point it just seems like a loss for me.

On my old bmw 2002 530i my indy shop couldn't read the codes. I took it into bmw dealership and they figured out the problem right away. If you have a dealership close to you i would take it in there and tell them what problems you are having and they should be able to pin the problem within the day!

[ctuna]

Take it back is the obvious thing to do .
Depending on the year both the aux and usb
will come from either a mulf 2 high or a combox .

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by Eurocraze

interesting, mine hasnt worked since february after i got my battery changed. my ipod that used to work/bluetooth/aux line all stopped working when i drove off the lot after the change. Also, i got an SOS malfunction along with it. OP have you had any headway on was/is wrong? i would definitley be interested in knowing, see in how my indy shop couldnt figure it out. They couldnt even connect to said features, he said it was weird. We checked all fuses and everything. At this point it just seems like a loss for me.

I know it's probably a long shot since this posts is 2 years old, but did you ever find the issue? I am having the exact same problem right now. USB, AUX and Bluetooth have all stopped working, along with an SOS malfunction. Car goes to the dealership Tuesday, unless I can figure it out. Help is appreciated. Please quote this post so I get a notification if you respond. Thanks!!!

[ptpending]

have you checked fuses ?
to check if your bluetooth module get power and working you can remove MOST connector from it and after remove and insert 26-pin or 44-pin connector, there should be red light from MOST connector in module

[Alturiak]

Originally Posted by Torqu3

I know it's probably a long shot since this posts is 2 years old, but did you ever find the issue? I am having the exact same problem right now. USB, AUX and Bluetooth have all stopped working, along with an SOS malfunction. Car goes to the dealership Tuesday, unless I can figure it out. Help is appreciated. Please quote this post so I get a notification if you respond. Thanks!!!

Sorry for reviving an old thread, but Torqu3 did you ever find out what the issue was? Mine just started doing this today... usb not working (not even charging my phone), aux not working, and bluetooth acting super wonky. Would love to have an easy fix for it!

Any help is much appreciated

[ctuna]

The fact that you have an SOS error means there is a problem
on the MOST BUS . When a module on the Most Bus fails it
stops all communication on the Most Bus Ring. If you have
the Logic 7 amp this means it will cease to work to and you will
loose all stereo sound and in most cases the Alarms and Door dongs
to. In a Logic 7 system when this fails the biggest statistical problem
is water got into the trunk and drowned the Logic 7 amp.
Next on the List is one of the other Most bus modues failed.
Possibility's are TCU/Mulf , Combox , Sat module, DAB module in
Europe . Some cars also have USB Hub if the come with the TCU/Mulf.
The USB Hub in an e90 normaly is behind the US Driver side
kick panel. I think it is on separate fuse but the aux goes through
it to I believe.

If it has been raining in your local and your sound suddenly goes
out check for water on the amp first.

Also if you only see TCU 1.5 the mulf 2 is hidden under it.
The combox replaces both of these in the newer cars and does
not have a USB Hub associated with it.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Alturiak

Sorry for reviving an old thread, but Torqu3 did you ever find out what the issue was? Mine just started doing this today... usb not working (not even charging my phone), aux not working, and bluetooth acting super wonky.

We never really found out what his issues/codes were, much less what the shop suggested they were, and any resolution, so probably best to start over with new thread.

Does ANY part of your audio system function? Does Radio work if FM audio input is selected? Do you get any static from speakers when jack inserted when USB or Aux input is selected? Have you checked F13 to see if it is intact?
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...cou/1VnYo8ECDO

Here are the components that F13 supplies power to:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-sbx-h/uZMgnLO

Of course you should check Ground X13016 (or continuity to Ground) as well as F13, as it is equally important that be intact. Here is Location Diagram of that Ground Point:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e92-335i-cou/RQGaWrH

The TIS schematics are interactive, meaning you can click on any BLUE component ID# and get more information, such as Installation Location, Connector View, or additional circuit information to that shown in first schematic.

For any proper testing of your system beyond simple fuse check, we need to know what Audio Options (Radio & Most) your vehicle has, and you need to use a VIN Decoder to get that info, such as the following:
https://www.etkbmw.com/bmw/EN/vin/decoder/online

As example, my 2007 328xi E91 has S676 Hi-fi speaker system as opposed to S677 Logic 7. I have S6FL USB/Audio interface. There may be other Options your vehicle has that are relevant to accessing the proper TIS circuit diagram for the proper USB Hub & socket wiring on your vehicle. Here is ONE Example of a possible system:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...iagram/xHG8EKj

In that system, you should have charging voltage (5V?) at Pin #2 of Connector X17181 at the USB socket under the center armrest (Orange wire coming from Hub), and Continuity to Ground at the Brown wire at Pin #4 of that Connector. If you do NOT have voltage at Pin #2, trace the voltage supply back to Pin #3 of Connector X17182 at the ULF (U400e), once again assuming this is the correct component as installed in your vehicle which depends upon your particular optional equipment installed.

This is merely a simple "Power Supply" test, and has NOTHING to do with data transmission via the other two wires from the USB Hub. I have focused on that since you stated that your phone was not being charged.

If the fuse was NOT the issue (and if it was, we need to be concerned WHY the fuse blew to prevent recurrence), it would be helpful to have diagnostics from a scan tool or software that can connect to the MOST or Radio Modules used in your vehicle to see codes and details/Freeze Frame Data. So do you have, or have access to, any such tool/software, or do you have a laptop with K+DCAN cable and interest in installing/using such software?

Please let us know what you find,
George

[Alturiak]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

We never really found out what his issues/codes were, much less what the shop suggested they were, and any resolution, so probably best to start over with new thread.

Does ANY part of your audio system function? Does Radio work if FM audio input is selected? Do you get any static from speakers when jack inserted when USB or Aux input is selected? Have you checked F13 to see if it is intact?
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...cou/1VnYo8ECDO

Here are the components that F13 supplies power to:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-sbx-h/uZMgnLO

Of course you should check Ground X13016 (or continuity to Ground) as well as F13, as it is equally important that be intact. Here is Location Diagram of that Ground Point:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e92-335i-cou/RQGaWrH

The TIS schematics are interactive, meaning you can click on any BLUE component ID# and get more information, such as Installation Location, Connector View, or additional circuit information to that shown in first schematic.

For any proper testing of your system beyond simple fuse check, we need to know what Audio Options (Radio & Most) your vehicle has, and you need to use a VIN Decoder to get that info, such as the following:
https://www.etkbmw.com/bmw/EN/vin/decoder/online

As example, my 2007 328xi E91 has S676 Hi-fi speaker system as opposed to S677 Logic 7. I have S6FL USB/Audio interface. There may be other Options your vehicle has that are relevant to accessing the proper TIS circuit diagram for the proper USB Hub & socket wiring on your vehicle. Here is ONE Example of a possible system:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...iagram/xHG8EKj

In that system, you should have charging voltage (5V?) at Pin #2 of Connector X17181 at the USB socket under the center armrest (Orange wire coming from Hub), and Continuity to Ground at the Brown wire at Pin #4 of that Connector. If you do NOT have voltage at Pin #2, trace the voltage supply back to Pin #3 of Connector X17182 at the ULF (U400e), once again assuming this is the correct component as installed in your vehicle which depends upon your particular optional equipment installed.

This is merely a simple "Power Supply" test, and has NOTHING to do with data transmission via the other two wires from the USB Hub. I have focused on that since you stated that your phone was not being charged.

If the fuse was NOT the issue (and if it was, we need to be concerned WHY the fuse blew to prevent recurrence), it would be helpful to have diagnostics from a scan tool or software that can connect to the MOST or Radio Modules used in your vehicle to see codes and details/Freeze Frame Data. So do you have, or have access to, any such tool/software, or do you have a laptop with K+DCAN cable and interest in installing/using such software?

Please let us know what you find,
George

Thanks George for your interest here. I have a 2011 335 with iDrive and HiFi audio system, upgraded to bavsound speakers and bimmertech amp. Car also has bluetooth calling and music, sos, usb and aux inputs, etc.

Radio plays just fine, as well as music files stored on the internal hard drive of the car. When I switch to usb, bluetooth, or aux (external music devices as labeled in iDrive) there immediately is a static noise that starts coming through and plays on all speakers. IF I get music to play, it will either sound like it is constantly skipping, or play for a second and immediately pause, or the system ends up kicking out of it and switching automatically to radio or stored music (the two options that aren't giving me problems).

I used the link for the VIN decoder, but it didn't give useful information (or any info for that matter lol) besides my build date of 08/10, and automatic transmission. I'll answer whatever questions you have about the car though!

I have my laptop at home loaded up with INPA, NCS, Tool32, etc and am comfortable using these programs to test and find issues and report back.

Going back to the "power supply test" the usb port started acting "normally" again and was providing power to my phone. By "normally" I mean that's about it; it would provide power to the phone but then it would either say "reading..." for so long it kicks to radio or internal music, or it would play but with the static and skipping mentioned. I did notice that during the times it would not provide power to the phone, the aux port also did not seem to work/the car would not recognize an aux input present. I could go in to manually select aux, but all it would do is open the menu to adjust aux volume, and it would allow that option until it also would kick over to radio or internal music.

I really have no idea where to start looking in terms of solving this. I hope it's not my CIC unit since that's pretty expensive. I'd much rather deal with a MULF2 replacement or something. Any suggestions on tests and such I'll do my best to complete in a timely manner and report back

[ctuna]

I would try just re seating the cables at the mulf or combox
as a first step. And at the center console to.

[vilord]

^ +1 check the connections under the trunk floor to make sure the mulf/combox hasn't come unplugged. Also look for damaged wires or puddles. Water can pool there.

I've also found that this is a favorite spot for mice to hang out and steal insulation from, and they have chewed through wires in that spot on both of my wagons.