[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Tunafish

Actually this battery is the cheapest correct size battery.. Plus it is an original manufacturer for BMW batteries which can be sourced locally.. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Exide-SP...5-49/308488577
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...=1604952731160

Well, TF, you're batting .500
Forgot to check Home Depot. It's stores near me have been enlarging their automotive sections over the last year. A year ago, they had as good a price on Castrol Edge 5W-30 Oil as anyone (including Walmart). Hadn't been in HD for ~ 6 months and didn't realize they had batteries. The Walmart H8 was $119 when I got mine there a year ago, but HD is now a good/better choice.

Now about your video:

Several comments about WHY written instructions are better for those who will take the time to read:

1) For someone who has NOT done the job before, OR THOUGHT about the steps and identified each component, it is LIKELY that person will NOT appreciate what they are seeing in the video;

2) ALWAYS disconnect the NEGATIVE Battery Cable FIRST before you get a wrench or other metal object NEAR the Battery;

3) The video vehicle did NOT have an IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor), so obviously did NOT show the two blue connectors associated with the IBS, or explain their importance, or WHY to disconnect cables from the RPDP or Rear Power Distribution Panel;

4) The guy doing the video would have DESTROYED the early model BST Connector when he PULLED on the wire removing the RPDP; Damage to either the IBS or BST connector CAN & WILL occur if someone who does NOT realize what he is working with just starts PULLING things apart in "get 'er DONE mode".

5) The video does NOT explain the "Clamp" on the RPDP on either side of the battery, and how to get it loose AFTER disconnecting ALL connectors attached to the RPDP ("Quick-boy" did NOT disconnect FOUR (4) connectors before PULLING the panel off the battery ;-) (a) BST connector; (b) JB (Junction Box) B+ Power Supply via Medium-sized Red Cable (separate flip-up cover); (c) VVT/DME B+ Power Supply via Small-sized Red Cable with Black Connector, outboard of JB supply cable; (d) IBS B+ supply so IBS can measure battery voltage, which on vehicles with IBS is a blue connector outboard of two Red Cables shown.

6) The PLUG for the vent hole on the REAR of the battery was NOT explained or shown. If you do not plug that hole with the plastic plug either on the battery being replaced or with one in the bag that SHOULD have come with replacement battery, acid fumes or boilover can escape to trunk;

7) While battery is OUT, DIY'er should inspect the Transfer points next to the plastic vent tube at the floor of the battery well. Just flip open the black-plastic covers on each of the two connectors. Those transfer points RUST and will sooner or later require replacement.

8) Since it is important to understand how the THREE different B+ Power Supply Cables are routed, and the separate function of EACH, changing the battery is the ideal time to UNDERSTAND what each does, so you will know what to test for and HOW to test if/when you have future Power Supply issues.

AND FINALLY, the battery shown looks to be 70 Ah, or an H7 or smaller, with NO GUIDANCE on what replacement to select, WHY, or HOW to change Code/Setting if a different Battery Type or Capacity is selected.

Details, Details, Details. It pays to take the time to UNDERSTAND HOW the Power Supply System works on your E9x, and failure to do that when changing the battery OFTEN results in LATER ISSUES.

TF, this is NOT meant as a criticism of YOU. You provide helpful Replies to MANY posts on this forum, and you supplied EXACTLY what OP requested: a Video. Consider this as simply a suggestion to those who want to keep their car in good shape for a long time: Take the TIME to Understand HOW any system you work on FUNCTIONS. It's NOT brain surgery; you CAN get the basic CONCEPTS.

I'll post a Step-by-Step Battery-replacement procedure (for my 3/2007 build E91) later this evening for those who want to take the time to read, think & understand; and HOPEFULLY get it right the first time, with NO "Side Effects" such as a 93B2 BST Trigger Connector Code, or "IBS Missing" code.

George

[gbalthrop]

As threatened/promised above, here is WRITTEN Step-by-Step Procedure for Battery Replacement, along with other things to check while battery is out, & Diagnostics using INPA.

Suggest that you NOT ASSume that proper Type/Capacity setting has been selected for the battery that is currently installed. Prior owner or his Mechanic may have changed Type and/or Capacity of the battery previously installed, and NOT reset Code or Setting. INPA can quickly tell you the current setting. Use NCS (ALSO in BMW Standard Tools with INPA) to select DIFFERENT Type/Capacity if necessary.

The following is the procedure I used for my 3/2007 build E91 328xi, with IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor), and Old-style BSD Connector, WITHOUT connector on TOP of Rear Power Distribution Panel (RPDP). Your trim panels and battery cover may differ. An H8 is the largest 12V battery commonly available (AFAIK), and fits in the battery well, using rearmost battery hold-down clamp threaded hole in floor.

REMOVAL of OLD BATTERY:
Remove Mat (covering carpet) & Bin Cover
Remove Trim Panel: 2 plastic screws 90 degrees rotation; lift bottom edge, slide inboard & disengage top tabs
Remove Plastic Cover: Rotate 2 Top Fasteners 90 deg; slide tabs outboard to disengage
IDENTIFY BST @ (+) TERMINAL & IBS @ (-) TERMINAL; HANDLE ALL ATTACHED WIRES WITH CARE!
Negative Terminal & IBS: Loosen T-bolt 10mm Nut 1 turn, wiggle gently & remove terminal from post
Remove Large Blue Connector to RPDP, from IBS, 2 sockets outboard of Small Red DME Cable
Remove S-Brace Over RPDP/Battery: 2 10mm bolts
Blue IBS Connector over Battery (-) Post: Disconnect from chassis harness
DME Cable: Small Red cable, unsnap Connector from RPDP; 1st socket outboard of Large Red JB Cable
Lift/Rotate Inboard edges of two Nut Covers, Red plastic RPDP; remove two 13mm nuts & RPDP
RPDP = Rear Power Distribution Panel; press down metal band & pry lower edges, side of battery
RPDP Lift UP one side at time while prying metal band catches away from battery; Remove upward
Positive/BST Terminal Removed: 10mm T-bolt Nut; loosen one turn wiggle & lift gently
IF you have a BST Trigger Connector plugged into the RPDP, disconnect that Connector
Rear Battery Hold-down Clamp: 10mm bolt, remove; careful of BST trigger wiring & harness clip
Gray Vent tube to Elbow/grommet by Transfer Points Removed from front of Battery; plug in Rear Vent Hole also removed from old battery for use in New
Lift out battery using handles on battery

WHILE BATTERY OUT:
Note the two "Transfer Points with round black plastic covers just above floor of Battery Well
Snap open the round faces of the covers and inspect the Transfer Points for rust. Oil Lightly or apply a thin coat of dielectric grease to slow rust/corrosion.
Suggest taking photos of ALL components mentioned, including the three B+ supply cables, so you have record of HOW components are located and their function. LARGE Red B+ cable connected to Outboard Transfer Point is B+ Cable for Starter & Alternator, and is connected to (+) Battery Terminal via the BST (Battery Safety Terminal) which disconnects from battery in frontal collision. Smaller Red Cable at Inboard Transfer Point is B+ supply to VVT Relay in E-box under hood.
B+ Supply to the JB (Junction Box) Fuse Panel is the Medium-sized Red Cable that runs INSIDE the car and does NOT pass through a Transfer Point. If you EVER have Power Supply issues, you need to understand what EACH of those 3 B+ Cables serves.

INSTALL NEW BATTERY:
Install Vent Tube Elbow on Front Vent hole of New Battery, by (+) Post; Install Plug on Rear Vent Hole by (-) Post
With (+) Battery Post forward, Lower battery into compartment & ensure FRONT lower edge is under Bracket to hold-down front
Install Battery Hold Down @ Rear of battery, 10mm 1/4" Drive Socket
Positive/BST Terminal Installed, 10mm Socket to tighten T-bolt Nut
Rear Power Distribution Panel Installed: Two (2) 13mm Nuts; Large Red JB Cable under Inboard Nut
Small Red Cable for DME snapped into RPDP in 1st socket outboard of Large JB Cable
Negative Terminal w/IBS Installed: 10mm socket to tighten T-bolt Nut
Blue IBS Connector attached to Chassis Harness over (-) Battery Post
Black IBS Wire Sheath w/large Blue Connector to RPDP, 2 sockets outboard of Small Red DME Cable
Reinstall S-Brace (2 10mm Bolts)
Reinstall Plastic cover with 90-degree twist fasteners
Reinstall Trim Panel with twist fasteners
Reinstall Bin Cover & Mat

INPA to Check current Battery Type & Capacity Setting:
INPA > DME > F5 Status > F5 Power Management Menu > F3 PM InfoField 2;
NOTE the "Battery Capacity in Ah (Amp-hours)" = Batterie Kapazitat in Ah value appears in the 7th row, Left Column of that screen. THAT SETTING is what affects HOW your battery is charged, and NOT either the "Registration" or "Histogramm" Reset discussed below. On my E91, that value was 90 Ah at the factory and is still set to that with the Walmart H8 installed. That H8 is NOT AGM, but simply conventional FLA (Flooded Lead Acid).

You can use INPA to "Register" the Replacement Battery (DME > F5 > F5 > F5 Batterietausch Registrieren = Register Replacement Battery. ALL that does is enter the current Odometer reading (in km) in a text field in another screen when you press the last F5 function key. It is an INFORMATIONAL Field ONLY, and has NO effect on how the battery is charged. THIS entry is NOT important. If you keep your Battery purchase receipt for warranty purposes, & record the Date of Installation and/or have a date sticker on your battery, this step is redundant.

If you have INPA and you are ANAL(ytical ;-), you can Reset the Histogramm which is simply the last 5 days of SoC (State of Charge). At the DME > F5 > F5 Menu, simply press "F6 Histogramm Reset". If you don't have INPA to do that, NO BIG DEAL, as in 5 days that Histogram will be overwritten, and you and your battery will be same place as if you HAD pressed F6 Reset.
So WHAT is IMPORTANT is knowing what your Battery Capacity Setting is, and if NOT correct for the battery installed, use NCS to correct that setting/code.

I have NOT used NCS, so will leave that to someone who has. In three+ years on the Forums, I've NEVER seen anybody give a simple Step-by-Step explanation of HOW to change that setting. Anyone who has used NCS Dummy, please provide.

George

[Tunafish]

Question the OP might run into with your instructions.. You say INPA to DME but on the start screen there is no DME option so some steps are missing here?

[gbalthrop]

Well, Pobody's Nerfect.
The "Missing Steps" are:
1) selecting E90, and how you do that varies by version of INPA used.
On Your screen, Shft+F2 selects E90. On the BimmerGeeks Version, E90 is F3. On the version I have used for several years (Mike's?) it's F6.

Once you've selected E90 and you are at the Script Selection Box, you have to Select "Engine" in the Left Script Listbox, and then select the DME Variant/SGBD installed in YOUR vehicle. For early N52 engines in 325i & 330i/xi, that is MSV70. For N51 engine & Later N52 engines in 328i/xi, the DME Variant is MSV80. For N54 it's MSD80, and it's one of the MEVD Variants for the N55. Select the correct one for vehicle to which connected in the Right-hand Listbox, and VOILA, you have the DME Main Menu (Hauptmenu).

Optional side trips along the way are "Functional Jobs" at Script Selection Box, as it appears in Right Listbox when you select E90. Functional Jobs Main Menu offers TWO quick & easy selections to check out:
1) F2 Identification provides a list of ALL Modules in the vehicle (20 in mine), and the SGBD or Variant of each module which aids in "Connecting to" that module by selecting the correct variant from the Right-Hand Listbox.
2) F4 Fault Memory (Fehlerspeicher), ALL Modules, gives a quick initial report of ALL Module and the Fault Code Number of any fault code saved in ANY of the modules. This is just a starting point, as you should then connect to each module that shows a Fault Code and get the Fault Definition, Freeze Frame Data or other Fault Details, such as whether the Fault is Currently Present, and the mileage at which the Fault was saved.

TMI, RIGHT???
But YOU knew all that already, so I provided it for those who DON'T.

Hope you or others can 'splain "coding" or Option Selection for Battery Capacity using NCS to this "NCS Dummy", since anyone with INPA also has NCS installed as one of the "Standard Tools".

George

[Tunafish]

Thanks for the info, I actually didn't know the missing steps since I never used INPA but was trying to play along at home.. I mainly got the software for ISTA+ since they took away online schematics..

[lowrydr310]

This thread reminded me to inspect the battery on my recently acquired 330i. The battery is fairly new, but it's ridiculously small, like the one in the OPs picture.

I recently replaced a 9 year old Autozone Duralast Gold battery in my 325i with the Everstart Maxx from Walmart and it's been great. Good call on the Home Depot Exide, I'm going to get one of those for my 330.

Edit: On second thought I'm not so sure now. I've seen a lot of comments about exide batteries leaking around the posts. Also, only a handful of the local Home depots near me carry them and they all have either one or two in stock. Walmart might be a better choice, easy availability for a parking lot swap should the need arise.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Tunafish

Thanks for the info, I actually didn't know the missing steps since I never used INPA but was trying to play along at home.. I mainly got the software for ISTA+ since they took away online schematics..

I would encourage YOU or anyone reading this who wants to DIY (Diagnose It Yourself) to Download & Install INPA. See BimmerGeeks site for K+DCAN Cable & Downloads Links. BMW Standard Tools and E89 Datens are two downloads needed. Install Instruction txt file appears when you Unzip 7-Zip file.

I'm basically the opposite. I used INPA for 2+ years, while using NewTIS.info for wiring diagrams & Repair Procedures. I had downloaded ISTA+ but never installed it until newtis closed. ISTA is NOW the best source of BMW Wiring Diagrams, Functional Descriptions & Repair Operations (R&R Procedures), along with Torque & Fluid Specs. Bentley (free Searchable PDF Download available) is good for quick references and Functional Descriptions of HOW each system operates generally:
http://www.georgebelton.com/335i.tech/bentley.php

INPA was designed by Engineers for Automotive Engineers, and as such, provides MORE DATA than anything else available. I attach a few sample screens so those who have NOT used it can see Examples of:
(1) Fault Details,
(2) Climate Control System Functions, and
(3) Cooling System Functions.
I would encourage anyone who wants the capability of getting ALL the Diagnostic information the ~ 20 Modules can provide when needed, to spend a few hours getting the "Basic Concepts" of what data can be read.

That DATA includes:
(1) "F4 Fault Codes", Code Definitions, Freeze Frame Data & other Fault Details such as mileage when code saved & whether fault is currently present;
(2) "F5 Status" which shows as "Live Data" the "Inputs" to each Module, such as Switch or Sensor signals, and Parameters or PID's such as Temp Values, Cam Position, Eccentric Shaft Position, Accelerator Pedal Module signals, A/C Flap Positions, Refrigerant Pressure or Evaporator Temp, MAF or O2 Sensor Values/activity, etc.;
(3) "F6 Activations" which can be used to simply "Observe" Parameters, or to CONTROL or "Over-ride" DME or other Module control of a Motor, Solenoid, or other Electrical Component, such as the attached screens related to E-Fan, Thermostat or Coolant Pump.

Also attached is a pdf on how to setup and start using INPA: "INPA Tutorial Quickstart", which also gives details on HOW to save INPA screens as jpg files, and to attach them here to share data for Analysis.

George

[Efthreeoh]

Lol.