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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > BMW Coding > Parasitic Battery Drain - Using Rheingold/ISTA-D to Diagnose



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      02-19-2021, 10:44 AM   #23
douglee25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dplaw View Post
https://ibb.co/DtzDvMP

I have the same problem!!! Mate please tell me what exactly do you coded in cas module? Or what you did in ncsexpert? I coded it with empty MAN. File nothing changes for me
I don't believe you want to code it with an empty MAN, it needs to be coded with the factory file. I believe I coded it with the factory file provided within NCSEXPERT? It's been years and I forget all the details.
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      02-19-2021, 10:57 AM   #24
douglee25
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Also you're showing 50mA.

Have you verified it's on the same circuit as the CAS?
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      02-23-2021, 11:02 AM   #25
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I have similar issue too. Car sits 2weeks without driving and the battery gets discharged and I am not able to start a car. 2weeks on stand by seems to be very low with new battery?

I have measured current in while car sleeps:
with after marked alarm armed - 0.095A
without alarm armed - 0.06A

Is 0.06A/0.095A ok? Should this discharge battery in 2weeks so that the car wont start?

How long can your e9x sit without driving and still able to start the engine?
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      02-23-2021, 12:05 PM   #26
douglee25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotter View Post
I have similar issue too. Car sits 2weeks without driving and the battery gets discharged and I am not able to start a car. 2weeks on stand by seems to be very low with new battery?

I have measured current in while car sleeps:
with after marked alarm armed - 0.095A
without alarm armed - 0.06A

Is 0.06A/0.095A ok? Should this discharge battery in 2weeks so that the car wont start?

How long can your e9x sit without driving and still able to start the engine?
You're still too high. You should be about 0.01A or 10mA. Keep pulling fuses until you isolate the circuit.

Mine can sit for months without issue.
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      02-27-2021, 10:55 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by douglee25 View Post
You're still too high. You should be about 0.01A or 10mA. Keep pulling fuses until you isolate the circuit.

Mine can sit for months without issue.
So I pulled fuses one by one and when I removed Fuse 36 alarm started beeping and current dropped to 0.009A from 0.058. I bet alarm system is drawing quite a bit for some reason. So my question is in which place it could be hocked to F36? And what are other functions of F36? Can I drive without it?

Also if I will remove aftermarket alarm completely and retrofit original one, wont it consume same amount of current?
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      02-27-2021, 11:04 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotter View Post
So I pulled fuses one by one and when I removed Fuse 36 alarm started beeping and current dropped to 0.009A from 0.058. I bet alarm system is drawing quite a bit for some reason. So my question is in which place it could be hocked to F36? And what are other functions of F36? Can I drive without it?

Also if I will remove aftermarket alarm completely and retrofit original one, wont it consume same amount of current?
Well there's your problem!

Likely an internal short or possibly something going on with a relay welded shut. Disconnect it and see if your problem goes away. If so, replace or go back to the factory unit. Nice work.
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      02-28-2021, 06:13 AM   #29
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Started removing the aftermarket alarm and now current is 0.008A!
The question is what do I do now with this relay and plug? And will car even start?..


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      02-28-2021, 11:40 AM   #30
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I got overwhelmed by wires, but it seems that its not that hard. Most of them just tap into other wires. Only the relay disconnected one thick black wire, I have cut and reconnected it, hope its ok not to solder it?
Have not tried to start the car though.
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      12-16-2022, 07:46 AM   #31
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Great Thread you guys! wow so much useful knowledge!
got anE60 M5 and it does have a parasitic draw - thinking that this is a great direction to follow.

Hotter did you end up starting the car? what was your end conclusion/resolution to this issue?

Thanks!
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      12-18-2022, 05:45 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eesjunin View Post
Hotter did you end up starting the car? what was your end conclusion/resolution to this issue?
It has started. I have managed to removed aftermarket alarm system and retrofitted OEM alarm system. Power draw has reduced to I think 0.011A, and no more DME errors like 2DED error which I was having because of parasitic power draw.

I have disassembled aftermarket alarm speaker and it seems it had battery inside which was bleeding juice. I bet its alarm speaker battery which was drawing power. Maybe replacing the speaker which was "cooking" in the engine bay would fix the issue too, but I like OEM solution.
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