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Front end vibrations wont go away -- NEED help.
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01-20-2018, 04:46 PM | #1 |
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Front end vibrations wont go away -- NEED help.
I'm in dire need of help diagnosing my front end vibration issues on my 2009 335i. As soon as I hit the highway and go 100km/h (60mph) or above I get really violent heavy vibrations in the steering wheel + seats in the front end.
I've done the following: Changed ALL control arms in the front TO M3 CONTROL ARMS (UPPER AND LOWER, LEFT & RIGHT) Changed ALL tie rods to OEM (LEFT AND RIGHT, INNER AND OUTER) Changed all 4 tires to BRAND NEW winters + balanced them Alignment was also done two times now. Road Force balanced, (front tires were REALLY off) Absolutely 0 bends or problems with my wheels. (Run out done and everything) One tire in the back had bubbles, so replaced that tire. Wheels were all re-torqued BY hand. Really stumbled as to what else it could be?? It feels like ive done everything.. and they're not minor vibrations, they're very harsh and you can feel it through the entire front end. Here's what else I think it could be: Alignment was done to a wrong spec (I requested to max out negative camber on front end but the guy didn't do as requested, still doesn't explain the vibrations) Drive shaft issue/Flex Disc or center support bearing. The wheel bearings are bad. (No noises) The motor/transmission mounts are bad. (Wouldn't make sense, only 120,000 KM) The installation of the front end overhaul was incorrect (I double checked everything my self and nothing is loose) Front shocks are bad (Doesn't make sense for heavy vibrations, and these seem to be in great shape) Sway bar links are bad (How would this cause vibrations? Also checked condition of these, and they're good too.) Warped Rotor? Anyone have any suggestions, should I start at getting the alignment and balancing done again, if so what specs for the M3 arms? Here's my current alignment specs on the M3 control arms: Thank you. Last edited by Nexus313; 02-03-2018 at 05:29 PM.. |
01-20-2018, 04:51 PM | #2 |
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Are your wheels torqued to the proper spec? I had a un curable vibration in my e87 the pproblem was cured just by properly torquing the front wheels properly.
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2009 118i Monaco Blue "Maximillion"
2009 335i Saphire Black M Sport "Leopold" Cobb stage 2 aggressive tune, Mishimoto FMIC, Cobb charge pipe, Cobb catted down pipes, Forge diverter valves, BMS inlets and DCI, Cyba scoops and M Individual Audio retrofit and M3 gauge cluster retrofit. 2011 328i Titan Silver M Sport "Franzel" <--Wife's car |
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01-20-2018, 04:55 PM | #3 | |
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open to more suggestions and will check this however! |
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01-20-2018, 05:01 PM | #4 |
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I am not talking about being loose. They need to be right at 110nm or 81flbs. Over or under torquing can cause issues.
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2009 118i Monaco Blue "Maximillion"
2009 335i Saphire Black M Sport "Leopold" Cobb stage 2 aggressive tune, Mishimoto FMIC, Cobb charge pipe, Cobb catted down pipes, Forge diverter valves, BMS inlets and DCI, Cyba scoops and M Individual Audio retrofit and M3 gauge cluster retrofit. 2011 328i Titan Silver M Sport "Franzel" <--Wife's car |
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01-20-2018, 05:05 PM | #5 | |
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any other suggestions? |
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01-20-2018, 05:06 PM | #6 |
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Any shop that just tightens wheels with an impact would never get my business again.
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2009 118i Monaco Blue "Maximillion"
2009 335i Saphire Black M Sport "Leopold" Cobb stage 2 aggressive tune, Mishimoto FMIC, Cobb charge pipe, Cobb catted down pipes, Forge diverter valves, BMS inlets and DCI, Cyba scoops and M Individual Audio retrofit and M3 gauge cluster retrofit. 2011 328i Titan Silver M Sport "Franzel" <--Wife's car |
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01-20-2018, 07:21 PM | #7 |
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Have you had your wheels tested for runout? Just looking at them doesn’t tell you anything. That being said I have a similar issue, with the exact same things replaced. It followed from one set of wheels to another as well and I had a wheel repair shop test the runout and it was perfect
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01-20-2018, 10:58 PM | #8 | |
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More suggestions would help too! |
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01-20-2018, 11:19 PM | #9 |
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You could have a wheel with lateral and axial imbalances and it would look perfectly fine, but vibrate like crazy. A stuck caliper, a crappy tire balance, a bent wheel, all of them can come into play. I’m doing my rotor, as well as end links soon so I’ll let you know if that helps mine. Can you drive in or out of the vibration? Mine starts up above 65 but is gone by 80
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01-20-2018, 11:40 PM | #10 |
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are the m3 control arms oem or aftermarket?
there was a another guy who had front vibrations for years but ignored it and didn't notice it was gone until he eventually replaced his aftermarket front control arms he installed previously with oem control arms. |
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01-21-2018, 08:35 AM | #11 |
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hey.. ive been having same issues to , my mechanic found a seizing u joint in the drive shaft..ask them to look into it...my symptoms were after a 20 min drive doing 120kms from downtown to sauga car would shake like the wheels were fallin off.. then when slowing down it was ok..
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01-21-2018, 10:45 AM | #12 | |
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01-21-2018, 10:46 AM | #13 |
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OEM m3 arms by TRW from fcpeuro.
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01-21-2018, 10:47 AM | #14 | |
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01-21-2018, 08:54 PM | #15 |
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Alignments won't cause vibrations in the car. Alignments are to keep the front wheels tracking the same as the rears A stuck caliper will pull the wheel when applied,or it will pull the wheel if it's stuck. A bad rotor will vibrate when pressure is applied, I could go on, but diagnosising vibrations in wheels could be a number of things. You can rule out alignment,+ tires, I would assume they checked out the front suspension when they did it. If your still feeling after this, look into unjoints, center bearing, driveshafts, and mounts. Honestly, it sounds like your center bearing is wasted.
Last edited by JuniorB; 01-21-2018 at 09:09 PM.. |
01-21-2018, 09:07 PM | #16 |
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Sorry stupid spell check. I should b more specific about alignments, there made to track the car straight, the same as the rears, there should always be a center point when doing an alignment on anything. You can do just a front wheel alignment, but the vehicle will track sideways. You will see this mostly on semi trucks and trailers. The next time your behind a trailer, look at how you can see the left side of it. Your alignment spec looks pretty good, your left camber will decrease when you sit in it, looks like it took into account the driver
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01-21-2018, 10:10 PM | #17 | |
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I'm really low KM (Just hit 120,000 KM or 74500 miles) to have a center support bearing or Ujoint wasted to be honest, I would notice clunky transmission downshifts too if it was the U-Joint, and its only front end vibrations.. But I guess i'll have to check those aswell.. |
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01-23-2018, 03:17 AM | #20 |
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They messed up (or ignored) your right front camber
And their target number are entirely in the opposite direction of what you want.... here you are buying shit to get moar negative camber. And these clowns are fighting it (and ignoring everything else....including, for some reason the right front wheel in its entirety) PS camber stuck at unwanted angles and unworkable can be a bent strut or strut mount Last edited by Adieu; 01-23-2018 at 03:23 AM.. |
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01-23-2018, 08:48 AM | #21 | |
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OP get a roadforce balance. Check runout of both your wheels and tires. I'm betting that one or the other will be the issue. |
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01-25-2018, 06:50 AM | #22 | |
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