[justpete]

Originally Posted by feuer

Now, let's go back to the subject (not in any particular order) :
-fresh oil
-good brake fluid
-new brakes
-performance tires
-helmet
-seat time
-electronic gadgets to help you learn since instructors are not always the best to learn from

Might want to include an in-cabin camera to be able to review sessions. Also helps to determine if you're turning your head before turning the wheel. If intercom audio can be jacked instead of using a separate mic, so much the better.

[gavronm]

Originally Posted by justpete

Might want to include an in-cabin camera to be able to review sessions. Also helps to determine if you're turning your head before turning the wheel. If intercom audio can be jacked instead of using a separate mic, so much the better.

+1 for in-cabin video. Lots of people just want to get cool shots from outside the car to post on youtube but in my experience having a shot from inside the car that shows your hands and your head, even if it's not the best view of the track and the line your taking, has been a real eye-opener. Even though it felt like I was being really smooth with my steering inputs, going back and watching the video revealed just how erratic and jerky I was being with my hands. You obviously can't be looking at your hands going around a corner so I never would have picked that up if not for the video.

[Riick]

I've heard of bad experiences with every product, you have to take what you hear about product reviews with a grain of salt.

[Riick]

Stoptech street performance brakes work really good around town, much better than OEM. Only thing left is replacing the upper control arms and I'm ready to have fun on the track!

I get more serious I'll just swap out to track pads the night before. Literally takes under 30 minutes to swap all 4 corners being lazy.

[warmmilk]

Originally Posted by Riick

Stoptech street performance brakes work really good around town, much better than OEM. Only thing left is replacing the upper control arms and I'm ready to have fun on the track!

I get more serious I'll just swap out to track pads the night before. Literally takes under 30 minutes to swap all 4 corners being lazy.

really? including jacking up the car, wheels on and off, cleanup? or are you cheating and have a lift in your garage...?

its at least an hour for me start to finish... and thats not really being lazy...

[feuer]

Originally Posted by warmmilk

really? including jacking up the car, wheels on and off, cleanup? or are you cheating and have a lift in your garage...?

its at least an hour for me start to finish... and thats not really being lazy...

Yes, I agree. Under 30min is impossible unless you have a lift and air driven tools. Especially impossible if you are working on stock sliding calipers that you need to remove in order to remove the brake pads.

[///mfizzle]

I'll be at Sebring Jan 31st in my 335i with chin my first event also

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by Riick

Stoptech street performance brakes work really good around town, much better than OEM. Only thing left is replacing the upper control arms and I'm ready to have fun on the track!

I get more serious I'll just swap out to track pads the night before. Literally takes under 30 minutes to swap all 4 corners being lazy.

You might wanna consider working as a mechanic at a pro team for top level endurance races if you can work that fast... 30mins is impossible with stock calipers... I can barely do 30 mins per corner with one jack and a two jackstands...

[Riick]

Old mechanic trick I learned a long time ago:

Literally grab the caliper while it's still bolted to the car and pull it outwards after you take the tire off. It will slide on the pins as designed and press in the piston. If you're a little guy put your foot on the hub and use both hands. You'll feel the piston slide in. Now the caliper comes right off when you remove the two bolts and the new pads go on without effort.

And use power tools.

[Riick]

I also sold some stuff laying around recently. Thinking about getting a new set of rims.

I was thinking Apex EC-7 in 18x9.5 ET35 all the way around. Suggestions on fitment?

[warmmilk]

Originally Posted by Riick

Old mechanic trick I learned a long time ago:

Literally grab the caliper while it's still bolted to the car and pull it outwards after you take the tire off. It will slide on the pins as designed and press in the piston. If you're a little guy put your foot on the hub and use both hands. You'll feel the piston slide in. Now the caliper comes right off when you remove the two bolts and the new pads go on without effort.

And use power tools.

thanks for the tip, but I don't see that part cutting my time in half... power tools do help though...

[StealYourFace]

Originally Posted by warmmilk

I was suggesting them as a first couple events kinda pad, not full on track pad... But now since ginger_extract had his break in half on him I'm not really sure about even that application... Then again, he's the first person I heard that had this kinda problem with them. I mean I had EBC yellows crumble on me too once they were low, I can post a pic if you guys wanna see

How long ago with the yellows did that happen? I heard some bad internet folklore about the other version but I have been running the newer ones with no issues. They even grab decent enough when its cold I leave them on when lazy.

[Riick]

Originally Posted by warmmilk

thanks for the tip, but I don't see that part cutting my time in half... power tools do help though...

What's holding you back making the process take 30 minutes per tire?

[Riick]

Originally Posted by StealYourFace

How long ago with the yellows did that happen? I heard some bad internet folklore about the other version but I have been running the newer ones with no issues. They even grab decent enough when its cold I leave them on when lazy.

I ran the green on my SC300 1jz single turbo car (street only) for years. They were perfect.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Riick

Old mechanic trick I learned a long time ago:

Literally grab the caliper while it's still bolted to the car and pull it outwards after you take the tire off. It will slide on the pins as designed and press in the piston. If you're a little guy put your foot on the hub and use both hands. You'll feel the piston slide in. Now the caliper comes right off when you remove the two bolts and the new pads go on without effort.

And use power tools.

Honestly, with some phycokinesis abilities maybe? Other than that : post a video or never happened in 30 min or less.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Riick

I was thinking Apex EC-7 in 18x9.5 ET35 all the way around. Suggestions on fitment?

If you want square set up 18x9 et31 is better combo. They have sale now, $300 per wheel shipped. Run them with 265/35 tire.

[gavronm]

Originally Posted by StealYourFace

How long ago with the yellows did that happen? I heard some bad internet folklore about the other version but I have been running the newer ones with no issues. They even grab decent enough when its cold I leave them on when lazy.

I went through a set and a half of yellows this October at Road America in 2 days. I started the weekend on a set that went in new in May for a 2 day event at Autobahn CC and were left in for a summer of daily driving. They were falling apart after 2 sessions at RA so I put in the new ones. 6 sessions later and they were toast as well.

Now, Road America may be the hardest tracks in the country on brakes, but when the yellows went away, they really went away.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by gavronm

I went through a set and a half of yellows this October at Road America in 2 days. I started the weekend on a set that went in new in May for a 2 day event at Autobahn CC and were left in for a summer of daily driving. They were falling apart after 2 sessions at RA so I put in the new ones. 6 sessions later and they were toast as well.

Now, Road America may be the hardest tracks in the country on brakes, but when the yellows went away, they really went away.

It will depend mostly in two things :
1-vehicle weight
2-driving style

Although, I don't have experience with the yellows I must say that I wouldn't be surprised if they lasted as long as couple of weekends at RA on another e9x or as short as couple of laps.

[Cloud9blue]

My ebc yellow was crumpling away at Gingerman Raceway back in 2014. My second time at the track. And that was the rear brakes and I was running PFC 01 at the front. I do push the car pretty hard however, and was lapping at 1:47 ish and sub 1:50 when I get the tires warmed up.

I can't imagine yellow would even last a day at RA while running the car at full speed. I was just there back in Oct and burning through a brand new of PFC08 in just a day and half while running 2:37-2:40 a lap without traffic.

[warmmilk]

Originally Posted by Riick

What's holding you back making the process take 30 minutes per tire?

oh per tire, yes, 30 min is easy. they way you worded it the first time around sounded like you meant 30 min for all 4...

[warmmilk]

Originally Posted by StealYourFace

How long ago with the yellows did that happen? I heard some bad internet folklore about the other version but I have been running the newer ones with no issues. They even grab decent enough when its cold I leave them on when lazy.

this summer... I was hoping EBC Yellow's would be enough on a slow and relatively light weight RSX... not so much

[justpete]

Originally Posted by warmmilk

this summer... I was hoping EBC Yellow's would be enough on a slow and relatively light weight RSX... not so much

Dayum! Never seen wear on Carbotech pads like that, wow, must not be useful for track duty at all.